Life is Sweet

The Dallas Mavericks just won the Western Conference Finals so Matt felt like celebrating. And to the biggest Mavs fan in Manila, nothing enhances the sweet smell of victory more than pizza, beef ribs and ice cream. And I knew just where to take him.

Unfortunately, the pizza and beef ribs at the restaurant we ate at were quite forgettable. They were not bad, and Matt was happy to have found a place where he can eat decent beef ribs in a country ruled by pork, but not really worthy of a recommendation. So, immediately after settling the bill, and with the fervor of a woman on a mission, I take my husband by the hand and make the short walk to Bar Dolci.



A few days before, after a sumptuous seafood dinner at Seaside Macapagal, Sanj and Cutie introduced me to this dessert haven/café. The second you walk in you somehow feel ten times hipper- everything is shiny and bright and delightful. The orange acrylic walls covered with scribbled names of regulars, the brightly-lit glass cases housing freshly-baked scones and pizza bruschettas, the pricey-looking espresso machine behind the counter, and over a dozen flavors of gelato- these guys are not playing around. Having already had dessert before we went there, I did not purchase anything. But, right there and then, I vowed to return with Matt.

Fast forward to dinner with Matt- we walk into Bar Dolci, and I watch my husband’s eyes widen as he sees the cornucopia of gelato flavors. There’s something for everyone: Stracciatella, Pistachio and Chocolate for the classicist; Tiramisu, Salted Caramel and Mango Mumbai for the adventurous. I leave Matt to ponder over his sweet predicament, as I zero-in on the Salted Caramel. I grab my cup and head up to the comfortable couch area upstairs.



The gelato at Bar Dolci is rich and smooth, as it should be. This Italian-style ice cream has a higher sugar content than most ice creams which acts as an anti-freeze to prevent the gelato from freezing solid. That gives you a more velvety texture, as opposed to other ice creams that do end up developing ice crystals. Aside from the consistency, gelato was way ahead of the pack in developing exotic and avant-garde flavors. From the two visits I have made with Matt, some memorable flavors I have spotted are the Walnut Torte and White Chocolate Wasabi.





Baked goodies do not play second fiddle in Bar Dolci, as their scrumptious sweet and savory scones have proven. One glass case is dedicated solely to their brightly-colored Macarons (a sweet and airy French confection made of egg whites and sugar), which is innovatively used in one of their frozen delights as a sort of ice cream sandwich.



On our next visit, I will surely have to try one of their alco-popsicles, which are displayed like prized trophies in a custom-made glass freezer. I had a bite of Mark V.’s Strawberry Daiquiri from my first visit, and the texture is again unlike the commercial stuff- the microscopic ice granules are more creamy than frozen, almost like a good cocktail fresh out of an industrial blender. Amazing stuff.



Bar Dolci
Forbeswood Heights cor. Burgos Circle
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. no. (632) 8468245

BILF: Burger I'd Love to F...

This is definitely not one of my proudest moments. Maybe my parents shouldn’t even read this entry. But, there is just no other way to describe it.

They call it the Chef’s Burger at Elbert’s Steak Room. My friends and I have since dubbed it “Sex in a Bun”.

After it seduced me upon seeing it on Spot.Ph’s Top 10 list of Manila’s best gourmet burgers (on the top spot, no less), I knew I just had to have it. It didn’t take a lot of convincing for my equally-carnivorous friends (Mrs. G-Ro, Morx and Cookie Goddess- who has had it before, but just had to have another round), and so the day was set. The deal with this burger is that it is only offered during lunch, and you have to call at least two days ahead. So, among the four of us, we decided to order two Chef’s Burgers, and we will order two more dishes from the menu.

Let’s get it on.

We were seated on a nice table by the window, the tinted pane just letting enough sunlight in to bathe us in a warm glow. The dining room had the essentials you would expect from a steak place- beautiful wooden floors, light ochre walls, crisp white table cloths, hushed music emanating from space-agey Philippe Starck speakers. It felt plush without being flamboyant, masculine without being butch. Sexy.



Since the others were not having wine, I just ordered a glass of Argento Malbec 2010 from Mendoza, Argentina (Note: Above is a photo of the wine, with a very alluring Cookie Goddess). Tita Irene gave us three bottles (one for each of us sisters) of this wine one Christmas, although an earlier vintage, naturally. Since then it has become one of my favorite go-to wines which pairs perfectly with grilled meats. Upon first swig, the 2010 seemed a bit thin and overtly-acidic. It is quite young after all, so I thought maybe I should just leave it be for a few minutes.



The salads came- every meat lover’s purgatory before the ascent to rapture. The fresh greens were joined by a few slivers of red peppers, white onions and pert cherry tomatoes. A light sesame dressing coats and flavors the salad perfectly.





Then comes what I jokingly called our “first course”- a shared order of Prime Rib, English Cut. The three thin slices of prime rib were divided into three plates, each having a reasonable dollop of truffle mashed potato and a cherry tomato garnish. This came with the usual condiments of horseradish cream and jus. If I did not have another meat dish coming I would have been perfectly happy with this one. The meat was perfectly medium-rare- soft, moist, gloriously-enhanced by the flavorful jus. If I must nitpick, I would have preferred a little bit more kick from the horseradish. But, that’s just my personal preference.



Finally, the dish that had us panting like wild cats arrived- the Chef’s Burger. Hand-chopped Angus beef blended with- pass the tissue- little bits of brined bone marrow, adorned simply with lettuce, tomatoes and caramelized onions, in a crackled, freshly-baked bun. Accompanying this sex bomb of a burger is a healthy helping of fries cooked in duck fat and a blue cheese dipping sauce. Upon first bite, you don’t immediately get the bone marrow. What hits you primarily is the meaty, full-bodied taste of premium American beef. And then, that heady richness (“unctuous”, Morx offers) you get from glorious fat creeps up to your taste buds and moves you to gently close your eyes, moaning in pure pleasure. We look at each other meaningfully, saying things that our fathers would not approve of. It didn’t bother us that Elbert was a few feet away having a meeting with what I suspected to be a Lichaytoo brother. We could not help ourselves. And the wine? It has opened up beautifully by then- velvety and mouth-coating, vivacious and buck-wild. A worthy companion to the burger, no doubt.



I was so immersed in devouring my burger that I was not able to try Cookie Goddess' equally- freakable Open-faced Roast Beef Sandwich. Someday I will have my way with that sandwich, I just know it.



Wasted and satisfied, it was almost a sin to continue on to dessert. But, then again, we were thinking: Why stop now? Besides, the desserts came with the meal, and we were served one of each to share- Chocolate Mousse, Marble Cheesecake, Mango Pannacota and Chocolate Cake. They were quite enjoyable- especially the Chocolate Mousse- and more so with some excellent Lavazza coffee.

Finally, after our "dirty deed", we do our “Walk of Shame” to Cookie Goddess’ car as Morx and I share a cigarette. The only thing missing at that point is French music in the background and runny mascara.



Elbert’s Steak Room
3/F Sagitarius Bldg. III
H.V. Dela Costa St.
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 339 3363
(632) 5198665

Making Baja-Style Fish Tacos

I wake up one morning and see that my mom has sent me an early text message. In a nutshell, it’s reminding me that I have a bag of avocados in the kitchen and I should do something (anything!) with them before they go bad. These avocados came from a very fertile tree in the family compound in Antipolo where my sisters and I grew up.

Now that I am living in a concrete jungle, I miss those days when we could get fresh fruits from our own (and our neighbors’… Tee hee.) backyard. Fruit trees were abundant- Santol, Kaimito, Mango, Kasuy, Macopa, Guava, Kamias- and all we had to do was have the gardener bring out his stylized fruit-picking stick and tug away at whatever fruit was in season. Luckily, an uncle who still lives there makes sure that everyone in the family gets their share of the season’s harvests. And, luckily, there were enough avocados during the last harvest to go around.

So, what does a Mexican food lover do when life gives her a bag of avocados? She makes guacamole, of course! And, after weighing the different levels of difficulty of my favorite Mexican dishes in my head, I decide that I would attempt to make my favorite taco of the moment- Baja-style Fish Tacos.

Baja is on the coast of Southern California and very close to the San Diego-Mexico border. I’ve never been, but I’m pretty sure its proximity to the border makes it a hot-spot for good Mexican grub. The first time I tried this dish was in Baja Mexican Cantina in Greenbelt 3, and I immediately fell in love with the crispy, beer-battered crust, the pungent sauce, and the textural element of the sliced cabbage.

As I did my research for what should be authentic Baja fish tacos, I discovered that the ones at Baja Mexican Cantina are pretty spot on. But, as any popular dish goes, there are a few variations here and there. The standard recipe is pretty straight-forward and composed of four components from the bottom, up- 1) soft flour or corn tortilla, 2) battered and fried fish, 3)white sauce, and 4)fresh sliced cabbage. Some cooks who prefer a more subtle flavor for the fish opt for a cornmeal crust, but I personally like beer-battered food so I decide to roll with it. (For a lighter beer taste, I decided to use San Mig Light) A popular addition to the standard recipe is either a topper of fresh pico de gallo salsa or guacamole. And, if you are a master of the obvious, you would know what I decided to include in my recipe.

So, as you can see, there are no hard rules on how to make YOUR perfect taco. The beauty of Mexican food is that there are a myriad of spices, salsas, herbs and seasonings that you can add or remove to make your taco your own. Go mild or go wild… It’s your choice. Everyone seems to be a Mexican food expert these days (Yes, douchebag, I’m talking about YOU), but do not let them tell you what to do.

Anyway, it’s fiesta time.

Baja-style Fish Tacos (serves 4)

Ingredients:
2 Cream Dory (or any white fish) fillets, approximately 300 g. each
3 cups vegetable oil
½ cup all-purpose flour
8 flour tortillas
½ a head of cabbage, sliced thin
1 lime, cut into wedges
A few sprigs of cilantro, for garnish
Hot sauce (optional)

Batter:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 egg, beaten
1 bottle of light pilsner
2 teaspoons salt

White Sauce:
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon Spanish paprika

Guacamole (optional):
2 medium avocados, cubed
1 medium red onion, finely-diced
3 cloves garlic, finely-minced
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
2 small tomatoes, finely-diced
½ lime
Salt and pepper

To make the Guacamole:
- In a medium bowl, pile on the avocados, red onions, garlic and tomatoes.
- Sprinkle cilantro over the mix and squeeze the lime into it, careful not to drop in the seeds. Season with salt and pepper. Mix vigorously until there is a nice creamy consistency, but still chunky.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the white sauce:
- In a medium bowl, mix all the ingredients together.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the beer batter:
- In a medium mixing bowl, put the dry ingredients (flour, salt and cornstarch) in and mix well. Add in the beer and egg. Mix everything together until well-integrated. (Do not worry about the small lumps, they won’t affect the quality of the crust.)

Cooking the fish:
- Heat the oil in a medium pot (make sure the oil is at least 2 inches high) over a medium-high fire. When you start seeing little ripples in the oil, you’re there.
- Slice the Cream Dory fillets into four equal parts, leaving you with eight pieces.
- Dredge the fish in flour, dunk them into the batter, and into the fryer. Cook the fish 2-3 pieces at the time to maintain the temperature of the oil. It takes around 2-3 minutes for the fish to fry, depending on its thickness. A nice golden coat is usually a good indication that its ready.

To heat the flour tortillas:
- The easiest way is to pile all eight tortillas on top of each other on a microwaveable plate, cover with a paper towel, and heat at “high” for 45 seconds.



Assembly is easy and fun. Just lay out two flour tortillas on a plate, top with one fish each, drizzle on some white sauce and top with some cabbage. Since I like cilantro, I put a few sprigs of it on top of the tacos with a couple wedges of lime as a garnish. And, of course, we should not forget the condiment containing the prized ingredient that started this all- a nice dollop of freshly-made guacamole on the side of the plate.

Vamos a comer!

Champetre: The Sequel to a Love Story

I didn’t always love Marc Aubry and his food. There. I said it.

It may be difficult to imagine that now, especially if you are one of the many who had to endure my constant gushing and drooling over Marc’s country-style French cooking. For many years now, I have acted as his voluntary crusader (one of the many, naturally) in spreading the word about his down-to earth, authentic French dishes, even turning skeptical rice-eaters into die-hard, foie-gras-devouring, escargot-slurping fans. So, to finally admit, after many years of pledging allegiance to the House of Aubry, that there was a moment in time when I did not LOVE Marc’s food, it’s almost impossible to comprehend.



But, yes, my love affair with Marc’s food had a shaky beginning. Like the tried-and-tested plot of a good romantic comedy, the dusky heroine was not immediately smitten with the dashing hero. Admittedly, I was a late bloomer when it came to French cuisine, so on my first visit to Marc’s old resto, Je Suis Gourmand, I ignorantly ordered a plate of pasta. I remember my young, rugged palate was not too fond of the strong Gorgonzola-laced sauce, and I rolled my eyes thinking, “What’s all the fuss about?” Je Suis Gourmand (JSG), after all, was the talk of the town- getting a table without a reservation was impossible, and the clientele was Manila’s posh and polished set. But, when the tall and sleek chef- his eyebrows raised, his perfectly-trimmed mustache framing his pursed lips- approached us and asked about our food, what he got was a lukewarm reception from the group of rowdy college kids. I remember loving the “pate”, which I thought was the best thing I ever spread on Melba toast. (Later on, I would discover that the “pate” is actually Marc’s legendary foie gras terrine.) So, even if I thought the food was “whatever” and the chef was “duh” (and I bet the feeling was mutual), I just had to go back for more.

I no longer remember if it was my second or third visit, but the story takes an interesting turn when I discover the dish that would get me hooked on Marc’s cooking- Braised Veal Cheeks Bourgouignon. The startlingly-soft chunks of veal, bathed in a sauce that is dark, meaty and complex, was a revelation, and it changed the way I saw French food forever. Until then, in my mind, dining on French cuisine was an affectation- something people do when they want to show-off to their in-laws or get themselves laid. Those veal cheeks made me realize that French food is not only celebrated with good reason, but surprisingly familiar- “familiar” in a sense that it is comforting, even reassuring. That unassuming brown sauce told me- in a creepy, Winona-Ryder-crazy way- that in another part of the world, a young girl is eating the very same dish in her Maman’s kitchen.

And, just like that part in the movie when they start playing Journey in the background and the hero is bathed in a magical ray of sunlight- I was suddenly, deeply, madly in love.



Years later, with Je Suis Gourmand gone, this love affair continues with Marc’s new restaurant- Champetre. Meaning “pastoral” or “country”, it captures the true essence of Marc’s style of cooking- hearty, for sure, using the best ingredients, with sauces given the utmost love and attention until the deepest and most fundamental flavors are conjured. The restaurant now includes a boutique where epicures can buy goodies- sauces, preserves, cheeses, wines, among other things- to be enjoyed at home.



Dinner with friends at Champetre had us waxing nostalgic over our Je Suis Gourmand favorites- we began with orders of Steak Tartare (not on the menu, but Marc prepares it when we request for it beforehand), Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Toasts and Salad and Baked Escargots Bourgoignonne with Garlic Bread. We had these starters with glasses of Cremant I purchased from Blue Frog last year and Bott-Geyl Pinot Gris Les Elements 2006. The former’s crisp, yeasty character went famously well with the steak tartare and escargots, while the heady pear and honey aromas of the pinot gris was perfect with the Foie. I’m not a master at wine pairing, but this was practically a no-brainer.



Our two orders of steak tartare were wiped out in minutes. The tender, chopped raw beef was perfectly seasoned and enhanced with onions and capers. Nicely creamy and full of bold flavors.



The Foie Gras Terrine was its usual, beautiful self, with its smooth and rich texture coupled with the sweet, nutty flavors associated with foie. Truly life-changing stuff.



Nothing says French food more than escargots, and Marc’s pretty little snails are a must-try. He serves it baked with an aromatic butter and matched with an addicting slice of garlic bread.



For my main course, I decided on having the Champetre Pork Cassoulet cooked in Duck Fat. The dish is definitely “country”- the baked beans hearty and rich, intermingling with the flavors of the boudin blanc (white pork sausages), slices of pork and duck.





Matt and Cookie Goddess shared the Algerien Style Couscous (good for two)- a dish that Marc used to serve on special days at JSG and is now made part of the regular menu. The couscous is topped with succulent lamb chops and homemade Merguez sausages. It comes with a bowl of broth that you ladle over the couscous. This dish has its own cult following, so I do not need to stress how good this is.



I got to try Sanj’s Roasted Veal Kidney Dijonaise with Fries and Salad- another JSG classic. The mustard sauce nicely-masked any gamey-ness from the offal, leaving you to enjoy the pleasant texture of the kidney with another one of Marc’s famous sauces. I tried to quickly take a picture, although Sanj was already halfway through it just a couple of minutes after the dish got set down. “It’s the best, Chinks”, Sanj helpfully informed me. At the speed you devoured the dish, I kind of figured that out, Sanj.



Cutie ordered the Butter-seared US Black Angus Beef Onglet with Fries and Salad. Any self-respecting meat lover should try this dish at least once. Yes, it is easy to appreciate a good slab of rib-eye, but onglet (or hanger steak) cooked properly proves to be so much more flavorful. The way Marc prepares it imparts a lip-smacking combo of butter and shallots all over the meat, making it a carnivore’s delight. During those days when I am ravenous, this is my sure bet.



With our mains, we had two red wines- Cutie’s 2000 Bourdeaux and Mark’s pinot noir- a 2008 Irancy Vielles Vignes. Both wines were great, but I think the pinot noir- with its pretty berry notes- went really well with the cassoulet. Cutie said that the Bourdeaux paired well with the onglet, and I can imagine that it did with its bolder, more masculine flavors.



Often times, we are too stuffed for dessert, but this time we made sure to make room. We all shared our orders of ice cream, Chocolate mousse, Passionfruit Cheescake, among others. I should make a mental note to have Marc’s desserts more often. They are never too sweet or cloying, which is perfect for me.



And, with that meal, my love story with Marc’s food continues. Like a love-sick puppy, I stare at the menu he e-mailed me and fantasize about the next time I shall be in his restaurant again. Marc’s passion for his food is truly remarkable and you easily spot it: from the flawless cooking techniques to the well-trained staff to Marc’s natural desire to make every dining experience your most pleasurable yet.

Now, that’s love.



Champetre Boutique & Restaurant
G/F Net One Center
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. No. 09178838801

Thai Food Festival at Mandarin Oriental Manila

One of the few perks I get from doing what I do is that I get invited to eat for free once in a while. The good people of Mandarin Oriental- particularly Director of Communications Charisse Chuidian and PR Manager Erika Aquino- were gracious enough to invite me to the launch of the hotel’s Thai Food Festival in Paseo Uno. I like Thai food, but do not particularly love it. Although, when I saw in the e-mail that the chefs from Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand)- ranked 45th in Travel & Leisure’s Top 100 World’s Best Hotels- were coming to town to show us Pinoys a thing or two, I admit I was suddenly curious. And, aside from that, it would be nice to see my Mandarin friends whom I haven’t seen for quite some time now.



I arrived for lunch and most of the guests were already there. I was warmly welcomed by Erika and quickly called shotgun on the seat beside her. She then walked me to the small alcove where the Thai buffet was located, which will be part of the usual lunch and dinner buffet until May 15, 2011. There were 18 dishes laid out, from appetizers to entrees to dessert. I particularly enjoyed the following starters: Tod Man Pla (deep fried curry fish patties)- think fish balls with a sweet chili sauce- asian flavors we are all familiar with; Plar Neur (spicy lemongrass salad with beef)- tender and lean beef with a nice kick; and the Tom Sab Gra Dook Si Kloong Moo (spicy clear soup with prok rib)- light yet packed with flavor.



After a promising opening round, I was excited to try the main dishes (so excited that I almost walked past Mandarin’s Executive Chef Rene Ottlik, despite his imposing Brock Lesnar-esque physique). Again, the beef dish draws me in- the Pa Neang Neur (creamy red curry with beef) is this lovely mélange of thai spices, sweet basil and lemongrass, so fragrant and rich, but not cloying. The Phad Prik Geang Moo Grob (stir fried pork skin with red curry paste and basil) got me eating more steamed rice than I would have wanted.



When I scanned the buffet, I knew that I had to definitely save room for dessert. Visually, the dessert spread on its own was a masterpiece. Fruits carved by the hands of specially-trained Thai women sat prettily on their silver thrones, while thimble-sized sweets in warm tropical colors beg you to pick them up and try them. What caught my attention was the Tab Tim Grob (chilled water chestnut rubies in sweet coconut milk)- not only was I struck by the mildy sweet, almost floral flavors, but by the unique texture of the “rubies”. During the Q & A with Chef Chanin Jakkased, one of the food writers inquired how it was made, wherein the chatty chef suddenly played coy and replied: “Secret”.



But, apparently, curious home cooks can learn the secrets to his dishes since he will be hosting a Thai Cooking Class at the Tivoli on May 7, Saturday, 9 AM. For passionate Thai food lovers, this is your chance.



The Thai Food Festival at Paseo Uno will be running from May 2 to May 15, 2011 at the Mandarin Oriental Manila. Diners availing of the Thai buffet get a chance to win one of 28 vouchers at stake daily, including vouchers for treatments at The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Manila, complimentary meals and dining discounts in Paseo Uno, The Tivoli, and Tin Hau.

The Thai cooking class with Chef Chanin will feature the following dishes: Phla Pla Tuna (Spicy lemongrass salad with tuna loin), Pa Neang Aok Ped Yang (creamy red curry with duck breast), and the enigmatic Tab Tim Grob. The cooking class is priced at P3,500 nett, inclusive of a continental breakfast, three-course lunch consisting of the cooking class menu, and a custom souvenir apron.

Thank you so much to Charisse Chuidian and Erika Aquino for inviting me to this event. It is always nice seeing you both. Chef Rene, you have to admit, you look totally different in an apron. But still, I promise to be more alert next time. Do not crush me.



Mandarin Oriental Manila
Makati Ave., Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 750 8888

Champetre Means "Country"

The name of a restaurant plays a more crucial role than most people think. It gives the guest an idea of what- and what not- to expect. It prepares you for the kind of experience that you are in for and puts you in the appropriate mood. Basically, it's the establishment's visual barker, telling people: "come inside, you want this."

When I received a text message from Chef Marc Aubry inviting me to a get-together at his soon-to-open restaurant- Champetre- I was bubbling over with excitement. Not only because Marc is my favorite French chef in Manila, but also because I was excited for my friend and his new venture. Matt and I were regulars at the now defunct Je Suis Gourmand, and over the years we have become friends with the hard-working and talented Frenchman.

But with my excitement came concern and confusion: What is Champetre? What does it mean? Will the name intimidate the non-French speaking public?

With a little internet research, I discover that Champetre (Shom-PAY-truh) is a French adjective meaning "pastoral" or "country". When we arrived at the restaurant's location (Je Suis Gourmand's former spot), what struck us the most were the colors: rich marigold-colored walls trimmed with soft vermillion- warm, cheery and definitely inviting. The space which used to be function rooms have been converted into a boutique where all kinds of delicious goodies- preserved fruits, bottled sauces, French wines, etc- will be sold. On the walls are framed prints of the French country life- a quaint farm house, rolling hills splattered with lavender, an oblivious wild boar.

Marc prods us to check out our favorite spot in the back, and I happily take a picture. Matt kids, "Chinkee will mark her territory in a bit." I ride along and say, "Yes, good thing you're not serving asparagus tonight." Marc, already used to our bawdy toilet humor, just laughs. I was kidding, of course.

The spread was simple but plentiful, and most definitely delicious: Matt devoured the mushroom quiche and was constantly stealing my puff pastry-wrapped Merguez sausages. There was a selection of cold cuts that I happily ate with beautiful crusty bread. Wine was abundant and nicely-laquered the evening's conversations, which, we were surprised to discover later on as we checked the time, lasted until the wee hours of the morning.

If the get-together was any indication of what the restaurant would be like, then Manila is definitely in for a treat. Champetre is a place that you can come to if you are craving for real country-style French cooking- none of the snooty stuff, just authentic French food. And, being a fan of Marc’s cooking for years, it will be delicious French food. The vibe is definitely laid-back and more relaxed than most French restaurants. Champetre makes you feel at home and I think that is what the owners want. After getting to know the Aubry’s (including their three beautiful and charming children) a little bit more that night, I come to the conclusion that this is definitely the direction they should be headed.

As for the name- yes, Champetre is perfect.

Champetre will be having its soft opening beginning May 5, 2011, Thursday.



Champetre Boutique & Restaurant
G/F Net One Center
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. No. (632) 8158801-02
09178838801

Make Way for the Mongols

Mongolian Barbecue... How could a dish from such a remote country be so familiar?

Interestingly enough, the Mongolian barbecue concept as we know it did not originate from Mongolia, but from Taiwan in the 1970's. A buffet spread of thinly-sliced meats, fresh chopped vegetables and a wide selection of flavorings and sauces is laid out, wherein the diner is given free reign to concoct their own dish, to be cooked quickly on a hot griddle.

Although Taiwanese in origin, this style of cooking is believed to be inspired by Mongol warriors and how they prepared their food- by gathering huge amounts of meats on their swords and cooking it on top of their up-turned shields over a fire. Mongolian Barbecue is also very similar to the Japanese teppanyaki, which also involves cooking sliced meats and vegetables over a griddle.

So, we discover that Mongolian barbecue is neither from Mongolia nor is it what you would consider your typical barbecue. Whatever it is, it has grown to become a popular comfort food with a cult following from all over.

In the Philippines, Mongolian barbecue brings together our love for stir-fried food, rice and noodles. To satisfy the Pinoy craving for everything tasty and hearty, we integrate the typical Mongolian barbecue into what looks more like fried rice of stir-fried noodles. The result is a steaming, aromatic, sweet/garlicky/spicy (your choice, of course), satisfying meal that is quick and cheap.



If you're in the Makati CBD, you can get your Mongolian barbecue fix from No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill. Available from 11 AM to 2 PM, Monday to Friday, the eat-all-you-can Mongolian buffet is unbelievably-reasonable at P249 only.

Note: No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill is owned and operated by my sisters, our husbands, a cousin, and I. I have always been a fan of Mongolian barbecue, even as a young(er) foodie: I loved eating it at the Bahia in the Intercontinental Hotel during family events, and at Sweet Inspirations when I was in college. I promote No. 38's Mongolian buffet not just as an entrepreneur, but as a fan of this particular style of cooking. I do hope you all end up loving it as much as I do.

No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill
114A Jupiter St.
Bel-Air 2, Makati City
Tel. No. (632) 5191806

Deciphering the Carbonara Conspiracy

My love affair with pasta began at a very young age: I believe I was around 7 or 8. In fact, I remember it quite vividly.

During one of my shopping excursions with my mom, we stopped for an afternoon snack at a department store café. Having always been an adventurous eater, I look through the menu, and spot something which seemed incredibly exotic to me at the time- Fetuccine Carbonara. I asked my mom if I could try it, and she raised a skeptical eyebrow at my request. After all, the only kind of pasta I have had before that was children’s-party-variety “Spaghetti Bolognese”, prepared Filipino-style with slices of hotdog in a sweetish tomato sauce. I remember her being supportive though, and watched me intently as I had my first bite of the creamy, flat noodles tossed with bits of mushroom and ham. Needless to say, I was hooked on everything pasta from then on.

But, as my maturing palate made me crave for food that is “bigger, better, more authentic”, I soon discover that my beloved Carbonara is not what it claims to be. Real Carbonara has no ham, no mushrooms and (gasp!) no cream. A traditional Carbonara from Lazio (where Rome is located) in Italy is made simply of the following ingredients: whole eggs or egg yolks, olive oil, guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from pork jowl or cheek) and Pecorino Romano cheese. (Guanciale and pecorino are easily available in the Lazio region, but when these are unavailable, acceptable substitutes would be pancetta (salt-cured pork belly) and parmesan cheese.) I also just discovered that fetuccine pasta is not a suitable match for this kind of sauce because it is too delicate. Italians are very strict in using only spaghetti or bucatini (sometimes penne) for Carbonara.

Recently, I chanced upon fellow food blogger Miguel’s Facebook page and he expressed his frustration on the lack of authentic Spaghetti Carbonara in Manila. He was surprised to discover that even in the better Italian restaurants, their Carbonara is prepared with cream. This made me wonder: Why is it that such a simple recipe (it practically contains just four ingredients) has been bastardized to such horrendous proportions that the “wrong” version is often believed to be the standard one?

I ask a chef friend about this, and he suggests that it could be brought about by foreign cooks adapting to what is available to them. During earlier times in the UK, for instance, cream is more accessible than poultry products, hence the switch. In my research over the net, angry purists blame greedy restaurant owners for using pricier ingredients in lieu of Carbonara’s otherwise regular cupboard fare to justify the additional zeroes in their prices. Being a guilty conspirator in the practice of “creamed” Carbonara, the reason could be as simple as this: Carbonara is easier to make with cream. A cream sauce can conveniently be prepared a bit earlier and re-heated when ready to serve. The traditional Carbonara, however, should definitely be cooked ala minute, very quickly, or else it could easily turn into an omelette.

I will not feign snobbery and say that putting cream in Carbonara is bad. In fact, give me a well-prepared cream-sauce Carbonara and I would be happy to eat it. I just think that, if you are a restaurant serving what you claim is authentic Italian cuisine, you must prepare Carbonara the same way they do it in Lazio.

As homage and “Oh-My-God-I’m-So-Sorry” to the pasta dish that started it all for me, I would like to share a recipe of Spaghetti Carbonara, done the traditional way. This is based on a couple of recipes I have gathered- all approved by some kind of Italian organization that protects the authenticity of their food- and tweaked according to availability of ingredients and personal taste.



Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Ingredients:
250 g. Spaghetti
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons olive oil
200 g. pancetta, cut into cubes
2 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk, beaten
100 g. parmesan, grated
Salt and pepper for seasoning

Procedure:
- In a big pot of boiling water with salt, cook the spaghetti for 7-8 minutes, or until al dente. When done, remove from the water, draining the pasta water into a bowl and set aside to be used later.
- Mix in 2/3 of the grated parmesan into the egg mixture and season with a pinch of salt.
- In a separate pan over medium heat, cook the cubes of pancetta in the olive oil. Include the garlic, and remove before it turns brown. (Note: This will impart a subtle garlic flavor to the oil which will not overpower the dish. If you do not care much for garlic, you can skip the garlic part all together.)
- When pancetta has been nicely toasted, dump the spaghetti into the pan. Mix the spaghetti and pancetta mixture quickly, and then remove the pan from the fire. Stir in the egg and cheese mixture continuously until it acquires a beautiful, creamy consistency. If the sauce is a bit dry (or “tight”, as chefs call it), add a few spoonfuls of the pasta water.
- Move the pasta into a big serving bowl and season with some fragrant, freshly-crushed black pepper and top with the remaining parmesan cheese.
- Serve immediately.

It all seems simple enough, and it really is. I do need to stress the importance of mixing the egg mixture continuously to attain the creamy texture of the sauce. I myself began to panic when I noticed some parts starting to come together like an omelette, and I remember going “f_ck, f_ck, f_ck” under my breath. DO NOT PANIC. Just keep stirring, and the minute the sauce is creamy, it’s done. Buon Appetito!

Ramen Dreams are Made of These...

Ramen is not extraordinary in the local foodscape.  In fact, you can go to any supermarket or convenience store and grab yourself a pack of instant noodles.  This has become such a staple in the average Filipino's diet, that we do not think much of it- nothing more than a hangover helper at the wake of a long night or a quick snack during a break at the office.

However, I join the long line of Manila's food bloggers who can't help but sing this bowl of soup praises.  Ramen in Japan is nothing short of an art form- centuries old recipes passed on from generation to generation, each bowl distinct in flavor and characteristics.  In the movie "Ramen Girl" starring the late Brittany Murphy, it illustrates how mastering the preparation of ramen not only takes samurai-level cooking skills, but engaging that ability to harness your deepest and most authentic emotions in order to make the perfect bowl of soup.  Intense, I know, but when it comes to the Japanese and their food, they do not kid around.



In Makati, we are lucky enough to get piping- hot, authentic ramen from Ukkokei Ramen Ron.  Not having been to Japan (except for those three-hour stopovers at Narita where I get to stuff my face with tempura udon and sushi), I judge the ramen's authenticity based on the fan base (hard-core food lovers and Japanese expats) and the serious-looking Japanese ramen master behind the see-through kitchen.  



The menu is deliberately limited, serving a selection of ramen and a few short order dishes.  For the ramen, you can have either of three soup bases- shio (salt-seasoned), shoyu (with soy sauce), or miso (thickened with miso paste).  Toppings are mostly pork, seafood and vegetables, not much else.  

On my first try, I opted for a shoyu ramen, wanting to try something basic.  That already was quite exceptional, with the aromatic and flavorful broth and firm noodles.  

However, what got me hooked is the same ramen that has Manila's foodies going gaga- the Tantanmen.  This particular ramen's distinct taste is inspired by a noodle dish from the the Szechuan province of China called dandanmien.  Apparently, Tantanmen also uses some Chinese ingredients which truly sets it apart from the usual ramen.

Ukkokei's Tantanmen is the first I have ever tried, and like many others, I was immediately smitten.  I was captivated by the lingering aroma of sesame upon first whiff. Having a sip of the creamy broth, the miso paste adds a substantial richness to the soup, the flavors of which are a complex mixture of spicy, tangy and garlicky.  The little bits of ground pork make this dish even more hearty, as you slurp long strands of perfectly-cooked noodles from the ladle.  This dish is heart-stopping, wet dream-inducing delicious.  And I do not exaggerate, judging from the number of people I know who try to arrive at exactly 6pm in order to partake of one of the ten bowls of Tantanmen a day that Ukkokei serves.



Taking my cue from other Ukkokei fans, I top my Tantanmen with aji tamago- or soy-seasoned soft boiled eggs.  As if the ramen dish is not rich enough, the addition of the aji tamago takes your dining experience from sublime to decadent.  

If you are looking for a light, refreshing meal, Tantanmen is not the ramen for you.  The thick, rich broth with it's complex flavors and spices is not for the faint of heart.  But, i suggest that you do give it a shot.  Maybe you'll like it, maybe you won't.  Honestly, I almost wish that you wouldn't.  That just means more Tantanmen for me.

Ukkokei Ramen Ron
G/F Tesoro Bldg.
Pasay Road, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 856 4588

Rant Alert: An Ugly Jacket in "Civilized Society"

A certain wine and food organization's wine fair is one event I was looking forward to since I attended the first one a year ago.  I look back fondly at the time spent with good friends, chatting and laughing over a decent meal and tasting some really good wines.  It was so much fun and left quite a good impression on me that when I was invited to this year's wine fair, I told more friends to join me and promised that they would have a good time.  Even Matt, who was not present at last year's event, I convinced to join because I said it will be a great party (which he is always a big fan of) and we get to hangout with some friends of ours whom we haven't seen in a while.  So, tickets were bought, and we were all set.

The night of the event arrives and it started out nice enough.  Matt and I arrived and we did a quick round to greet the people we knew at the event, both suppliers and the organizations members and officers.  Good friends and lovely couple- Weinmeister and Mrs. Weinmeister- introduce their charming sons to us, and we decided, of course, to join their table.  I set my black pocketbook down on the seat beside Weinmeister (I assume it was his since his camera bag was on it) since it was decided that we will be sitting there.

We all return to the business of tasting wines, chatting, laughing, having a great time.  Soon, our friends Sanju, Cutie and Mark arrive and everyone is getting into a party vibe.  I was truly happy to see my husband and friends enjoying themselves, having their fill of the wines being offered, feasting on artisanal cheese and the lechon at one supplier's booth.  

Weinmeister approaches us at one point and tells us that they will begin dinner as the two boys are already hungry.  He tells us that if we are ready we can place our orders as well so we can all eat together.  As we figure out our seating arrangements, Sanju points out that there was a jacket hanging at the back of one of the chairs.  We ask Mr. and Mrs. Weinmeister to whom it belongs to, and they both say they do not know.  Somebody suggests that the jacket be moved.  So Sanju does just that.  

Within seconds, the angry owner of the jacket approaches us, this Austrian fellow.  I knew who he was, having met him at other wine and food events, the last of which was the organization's luncheon at La Tienda.  I don't know a lot about him, I never really felt the need to.  Anyway, he starts his tirade about not liking the fact that his things were being moved around.  "This is civilized society, we do not do these things", he said in a huff.  

He claims that his one jacket was placed there to reserve four seats, and then widens his eyes like giant saucers and focuses his glare at me.  I glare back, and point out to him that my one bag was also there to reserve our seats.  He says he did not see my bag there.  At fthis point, my blood was boiling and it took all the strength in my body to stop me from clawing at his big, bulging eyeballs.  "I will not fight with you, (name concealed)", I tell him curtly,  then turn around and leave.

We find seats at the next table, and we refused to let his angry stares ruin our evening.  As we chat up the friendly Australian and American and their dates, we try to brush the incident of the ugly jacket and its owner off our sleeves and enjoy the rest of the evening.  And that we did with gusto.

What was funny, though, was that Austrian guy was doing his rounds, apparently trying to get the rest of "civilized society" to gang up against poor little me.  Really funny, since a good number of the people he spoke to are friends of mine, some I have been wining and dining with for almost a decade.  

I heard that he was wondering who invited me.  The fact is, I was invited by, not one, not two, but THREE different members.  I was surprised that he did not notice I was the only female invited to that La Tienda luncheon, after which I was given an open invitation to attend the ones that are yet to come.  Unfortunately for him, his "friends" seem to like me.  I doubt if any one who knew me in that room had something against me.  Which, unsurprisingly, I cannot say the same about him.  He has only made an enemy of me for less than 24 hours and so many people are only too happy to dish out dirt about him left and right, including a big guy in the food industry.  People do not seem to like this guy, to put it mildly.

He talks about "civilized society" and yet he goes about his business disrespecting people, when things could have been handled in a more reasonable manner.  To begin with, why did he pounce on me?  I did not TOUCH his jacket, and I will never even dream of touching that eye-searing monstrosity (a feeble attempt at being fashionably eccentric) with a ten-foot pole.  Why did he not snap at Sanju?  Is it because he can't pick fights with men, so he starts one with the Asian chick?  Not so "civilized" behavior, even a truck driver from the boondocks will tell you that.

My opinion about this Austrian guy does not in any way reflect how I feel about the organization (or Austrians, for that matter).  The reason why I started coming to their events is because I have always liked the people in it- fun-loving, gracious gentlemen (and ladies) who share my  love for good food and wine.  I have met so many wonderful people within the society, people that I look up to and emulate, and many I have been lucky enough to call my friends.  Its disappointing to realize that there really are people like him in these organizations.  That's why it saddens me when the little time I get to spend in the company if it's more gracious and genuinely accommodating members is sullied by the presence of a man who seems to have a different concept of what the group is about.  That, or he's just really a prick.  

Anyway, the night was not completely lost.  As I mentioned,  we still had a grand time, and our little party moved to the bar after.  Some of the younger suppliers even followed, and celebrated a good showing at the wine fair with some cocktails and burgers.  The bar was packed, and the vibe was amazing.  Life could not be better.  And not even a petty little Austrian man with a bad attitude can ruin it for me.