Let the Sunshine Through

Girls who do not eat are very foreign to me. I respect their choice—they obviously prefer to look good in skinny jeans over indulging in a cheesy, carb-y pizza, and that’s ok. Once in a while I do catch myself admiring their lithe physiques and hoping that I, too, can fit into those tiny size-2 dresses. But I made my choice, and I chose to eat well. Therefore, I will live with the results, which is the “junk in my trunk.”

But the ladies of Sunshine Kitchen are freaks of nature—they cook and eat delicious, rich comfort food without gaining an inch around their mid-sections. From the lovely chefs (co-owner Tanya and my baby sister, Sansan) to the bubbly part owners, all of the ladies involved look great in their sexy denim cut-offs. Don’t be fooled though—these hotties know their food.
 

When I eat at Sunshine Kitchen, I like to prep my stomach with one of their healthy salads. Their dressings—such as the Mediterranean Salad’s red wine vinaigrette—are light yet flavorful.

The pizzas here can definitely give those of the surrounding establishments a run for their money. The crust is thin and crisp, but with a bit of a bite. Old-school, Neapolitan-style. My favorites are the Cristal’s Choice, which is their version of the pizza Napolitana. But for something that is uniquely SK, go for the Sunshine Pizza—garlicky Cabanatuan longganisa, juicy porchetta, peppery arugula, topped with a runny egg. A spattering of yolk adds just enough richness to an already decadent dish. Not for the calorie-counting, but then again, you only live once.

Matt the chicken lover swears by their Fried Chicken. Crisp, juicy and flavorful, it has all the winning components. Their gravy is what I imagine good Southern-style cooking must be. Creamy and rich, but not overtly so.

Another bestseller is the Longganisa Paella. The dominant flavors are classic Spanish, but with familiar flavors of local sausage and eggs. Very festive and perfect for sharing.

Their lust-worthy Porchetta is served with rice pilaf and French beans. This, along with their pizzas, is what will set this establishment apart from all the trendy grub spots in the metro. The skin is chicharon-level crunchy, and the moist pork is soft and perfectly-seasoned. Everyone from husky males to Cohen-cheating waifs swear by it.

Sunshine Kitchen also makes their own ice cream, and one time I got to try their Key Lime Pie Ice Cream. And that is exactly what you taste when you have a spoonful. A cool touch would be the sweetened breadcrumbs that add texture for a well-rounded dessert. It’s an ideal place for pretty much everything—from quiet brunches, to power lunches, to boisterous family dinners. Or just come by when you want to be cheered up by some straightforward, delicious food.



Sunshine Kitchen
2/F Fort Pointe Building (near Urbn)
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Mobile no. 0929-8139775

Lu and Wagyu

It was a great morning to begin with.

The summer sun was bashfully peering through our blinds in the bedroom, the slits allowing a peek at the majestic expanse of the golf course below, while the sheets and pillows were pleasantly cool from the air conditioning. Matt is sleeping soundly beside me, muttering incomprehensible phrases in German while he dreams. I enjoy these quiet moments in the morning when I get to move around at my own pace, going through my morning rituals as I slowly get energized for the day ahead.

I check my e-mails as I usually do, and there it was: an invitation to dinner from Luis de Terry at his restaurant, Lu. It was exciting enough to be summoned to a tasting dinner by one of Manila’s explosive new chefs, but when he said that it was a tie-up with the local distributors of Snake River Farms Wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork, it was truly what some of my wildest gastronomic fantasies are made of. Without even asking if I could bring my husband or if our common friend Maggie was also going, I immediately say “yes”. All of a sudden, what was a pleasant morning just got ten times better, and I jump back into bed and snuggle up to my hubby (Yes, pervs, we just snuggled).



Fast forward to a week later and I was psyched. As I walked into Lu’s well-lit interior, the handsome chef/owner greeted me and introduced me to his sister and friends. We then chatted about the dishes and I asked him if there was going to be wine pairing. “Of course! “, he exclaims, “in fact, I better get started before I have too much Krug”. “Krug champagne?! Why didn’t you say so! Give me some of that!” I tell Luis, who quickly motioned to the bartender and then made a beeline for the kitchen. I get my bubbly from the bar and scan the room for a seat.



Luckily, I spot the familiar face of my Tito Randy and make my way towards him. A ferocious foodie and wine lover, he was also one of the lucky few whom Lu invited to the event. Always full of energy and armed with a quick wit and great sense of humor, I could not have asked for a better dinner companion. Plus, he’s a cardiologist, so in the worst-case scenario that my heart stops beating after five courses of wagyu beef, then at least I’m covered.




The other guys at our table were: Ramon del Gallego, brother of part-owner Christine; and Tito Locsin, Christine’s boyfriend. Without bias, I really think we had the craziest table. Conversations flowed naturally and topics transitioned with ease from food to travel to sex and back again, punctuated by raucous fits of laughter. I noticed we had a lot of visitors at our table (like Teddy Montelibano and Manoy Llige), and I kind of wished that we had more space to accommodate all the interesting characters I met that night.



Finally, the event opens with an introduction about Snake River Farms and their products. As we fidgeted in our seats, eager to get dinner going, they showed us a short documentary about the company, its history and their commitment to excellence. The clip was quite informative and made me appreciate the dinner that was about to be served even more.



In the short e-mails Chef Lu and I exchanged the week before the dinner, he described vaguely to me what he plans to do with the featured meats. Although he did not go into detail, he told me that he has informed Alternatives Food Corporation (the local distributor of SRF products) that the food will be prepared in his signature bold style. This means, of course, lush and exotic flavors from Latin America, Africa and the Mediterranean with a breath of sexy Asian influences. This is normally scary terrain for me, but I learn to trust Luis and his craziness and just brace myself for the culinary roller coaster ride I know I am about to go on.



First to tease our palate was an appetizer of Flat Iron Carpaccio & Curry Cream Nigiri/Top Blade and Artichoke Phyllo Pinwheel. I pick up the “sushi” with my fingers and scrape a bit of the cream with it. The cream was surprisingly light but firm, like it was vigorously whipped and then chilled. The curry was not overpowering and the musky flavor acts as an accent to the lean meat. The boys seem to favor the pinwheel, though, with its complex play on textures- the tenderness of the beef alongside the crisp asparagus, fresh scallions and fried phyllo. A shot of sake completes the plate and highlights the playful allusion to Asian flavors. We all agree that we were off to a good start.



The next course was a Pillowed Kurobuta Pork Belly Confit/Kurobuta Cochinita Pibil on Turmeric Puri. The pork belly was served kuapao-style in a thick but airy bun. I was hoping for more flavor and crunch from this one, so I preferred the Pibil which was perfectly juicy and aromatic, accented by the sweet-sour of the pickled onions. The dish was accompanied by a glass of Mays Chardonnay ’07. I liked how it was young and had a nice acidity to it that cut through the sweet and pungent flavors as well as the rich fattiness of the pork.



The “fish” course came in the form of a Moroccan Ox Tongue & Fresh Water Prawn Salad, accompanied by the same white wine. “They said it cannot be done”, Luis shared later on. But true to his rebellious style of cooking, he went ahead and grilled the ox tongue around batonettes of zucchini and mushrooms. It had a very mild smokiness to it and a surprisingly soft texture. This dish was a modest success, a chilled-out interlude to what has so far been a full-on attack on the senses.



My favorite dish for the night was the Harissa Glazed Tenderloin Brochettes/Peruvian Anticucho Hanger Steak. This is a great example of taking the highest-quality ingredients and using simple techniques executed to perfection. The brochettes were grilled medium-rare and alive with the flavors of exotic spices. The hanger steak was lean and butter-soft, the couscous pleasantly fragrant and fluffy. Amazing, amazing flavors, all around. I hope they put this on their regular menu. The accompanying glass of Chateau Pauillac ’04 had a nice full body that went well with this bombshell of a dish.



I go outside for a smoke and by this time people are in a party mood. I loitered outside a bit longer than usual and, when I came back inside, my table companions have started with their Wagyu Gold Rib-eye with Dalandan-Chipotle Butter, accompanied by a glass of Callejo Reserva ’05. My steak was a tad overcooked, which I think is partly my fault since it must have been sitting in the warmer while I was outside. I can only imagine how good the dalandan-chipotle butter would be on a medium-done steak- I loved how you just get a whiff of the local citrus and the butter is both garlicky and just a bit spicy. At this point, I barely finish half of my steak as I feel my stomach being stretched to its limit. I marveled, though, at the men’s appetites as Manoy took small slices from Tito’s steak while he was not looking.



When they set the dessert- Honeydew Melon & Ginger Ice Cream/Wasabi & Orange Tiramisu- down on the table, I can only sleepily stare at it for a moment as I imagine my stomach cursing me. I get extra motivation when I hear Tito Randy exclaim, “Wow! Who would have even dreamt of putting wasabi in Tiramisu? And it actually works!” I take a spoonful of the tiramisu and let it linger in my mouth, as I felt the familiar heat from the wasabi make its way up my nasal passages. Chocolate and orange is a classic combination so it’s not surprising that these two would come together. The ice cream was also a lovely combination of sweet fruitiness and heat, nicely tying up the theme of the dessert.



After dinner, we all applaud the organizers and Chef Lu for an excellent meal. Everyone was definitely on party mode after all the wine and a few of us decided to stay on for some cocktails. After Tito Randy bid us good night, Manoy, Ramon and I ordered more cocktails and (gasp!) shots of Patron (as a much sober Christine looked on in amusement). Luckily, I was sleeping at my parents’ place nearby and did not have to worry about driving home. I was having so much fun with my new friends that I did not want to leave. Eventually, my triple-vision gave me the signal that it was time to re-hydrate and call it a night.



That evening of pure indulgence was definitely one for the books. Lu’s bold and eclectic flavors is something Manila’s culinary landscape has never seen before- a living, breathing organism that is a combination of different tastes and cultures- and it’s exciting to watch how it will continue to evolve. Thank you so much, Luis, for inviting me. I am eagerly awaiting the next one.



Lu
G/F Joya Lofts and Towers
Joya Drive, Rockwell
Makati City
Tel. no. (632)4033991

Alternatives Food Corporation
(Distributor of Snake River Farm products)
Unit 908 Richmonde Plaza
San Miguel Ave. cor. Lourdes St.
Ortigas Center, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6317228-30

If It Lu-ks Good, Eat It

Yes, I really took it easy during the holidays. Despite all the eating out, cooking and partying, I decided that I just wanted t o soak everything in and not worry about taking food pictures and writing articles. I had a wonderful time just being with my family, catching up with old friends, making new ones, and just having a grand time celebrating the season.

After the revelry, I knew I had to get back to writing, and fast. In the past couple of months there were at least five new restaurants that opened just in time for the holidays and I have yet to try them all.

During the Christmas season I was able to dine a couple of times at the newly-opened Lu in Rockwell, Makati City. Luis de Terry’s new resto is truly a welcome addition to the area's classic and mundane (as to which restaurant is which, you be the judge of that) line-up of eateries. Since I always find myself in Rockwell for various reasons, I longed for it to have a restaurant with an exciting and sophisticated menu matched by a descent wine and bar list. Luckily, someone up there was listening to my prayers.

As is the case with most restaurants, the first few months are quite wobbly. My first visit to Lu was pretty successful- the food was good, the service quick, and zero foul-ups. I was so impressed that within the very same week I took my parents and sister (who all live in the area) there for dinner. Unfortunately, this time around, there were some hits and misses. My parents look at me like I’m crazy, and I find myself explaining that the food REALLY was good the first time I ate there.

Recently, I was given another opportunity to have dinner at Lu, this time for our friend GP’s birthday dinner. This was with the same group I ate with the first time around, so they only had good memories of the place. I, of course, being already aware of the resto’s “birthing pains”, was slightly apprehensive. But, trusting the chef/owner’s capabilities and with the lingering reminiscence of my successful first visit, I decided to keep an open mind and just enjoy.






Dinner was on a Thursday night and the place was packed with Manila’s beautiful people. That is one thing I noticed about Lu- the clientele is truly Manila’s hippest and well-heeled. We had to wait a bit outside while we waited for our table to be available. We- me, GP, Cookie Goddess, Mrs. G-Ro and Maggie (another friend- Paulie- just followed after dinner for drinks)- took one of the tables outside and had a round of their delicious DiabLu- a mojito-like cocktail, only this time using gin instead of rum.


Finally, after half an hour, we were ushered into the chic dining room (which was designed by our friend and dining companion- the gorgeous and amazing Maggie Silayan Go), with its high ceilings and plush furnishings. I love the contrasting white and dark wood accented by the warm brick reds and sage of the chairs. Polished, yet welcoming and cozy.


We are first served Lu’s Favorite Dips- Hummus, Eggplant Caviar and Pico de Gallo. It comes with a side of crisp round pita chips which are used to scoop up the hummus and eggplant caviar. The hummus, a friend swears, is as authentic as they come. Honestly, I would not know for sure, but Lu’s hummus is surely one of my favorites now, with its rich, velvety consistency and intense chickpea flavor. The Eggplant Caviar is also a hit with me, simply because I love roasted eggplant and this one was done perfectly. The Pico de Gallo was cradled by a crisp papadum cup and was also quite good, but got soggy later on.




Next to arrive are more appetizers- the Argentinian Hand-chopped Beef Empanadas and the Istanbul Lamb Kebabs. If there is one appetizer that everyone must try, it has got to be the Beef Empanadas. These little pockets of meat are simply oozing with flavor and goes perfectly with the accompanying chimichurri sauce. They’re so good I wished they were bigger, even by just a bit.


Maggie loves the Tunisian Salad so we ordered one for everyone to try. I liked the mildness of the dressing, which allowed the smokiness of the roasted vegetables to come through.




Mrs. G-Ro and I shared the Mexican Steak Frites and which we asked to be cooked to medium-doneness, and Truffle Macaroni and Cheese. The meat was tender and densely flavored with aromatic herbs and spices. The onion rings and flavored fries were a nice southwestern touch. The Mac and Cheese was a hit with everyone the minute it reached our table. “Something smells good,” Mrs. G-RO observed, looking towards the source of the pungently appetizing truffle scent. We forget the carbs and calories for the moment, and we all indulged in its thick, creamy and aromatic cheesiness. Heaven!


Cookie Goddess ordered the Unhurriedly-steamed Lamb Shank with Minted Yogurt and a side of Vermicelli Rice. This was the dish that I ordered the second time I ate here, and although the lamb was cooked perfectly, the sauce I found to be a tad watery. This time, though, the sauce looked lusciously thick and creamy. I had a taste and discovered that the lamb shank was a winner. The meat, as usual, was fall-off-the-bone tender, the tendon so gelatinous it melts the minute it touches your tongue. The mixture of short, thin noodles and rice effectively soak up the rich goodness of the sauce.


Body-conscious GP ordered fish for himself- the Poached Flounder and Lemon Risotto. I did not expect much from this dish, but was pleasantly surprised by how good it was. The fish was moist and flaky and the risotto was perfectly al dente.


Since Cookie Goddess wanted to try Lu’s Ultimate Pork Chop, Maggie ordered it as her main dish. The thick generous chop was bathed in a tangy orange-achuete sauced accompanied by a sweet potato mash and pickled onions. Now, I just have to say that Maggie is probably one of the sweetest, kindest people I know. Yet, when I asked to try a piece of her pork chop, I sensed a hint of reluctance on her part. She cuts off a tiny piece and places it on my plate. I take a bite, and then I understand. The pork chop was butter-soft, the sauce pleasantly sweet-sour and savory. If it was my dish, I would not have wanted to share it either.

Too stuffed for dessert, we hang around for more drinks (red wine for me, more DiabLu for my companions) and conversation. The handsome Luis chatted with Maggie about the food and I suppose she mentioned my not-so-good second visit. Like any serious chef/restauranteur, he turned towards me with concern and sincerely asked for a blow-by-blow account of that particular event. His easy manner and earnestness had me comfortably retelling what I did not like about my last dinner there as he listened on with genuine concern. Naturally, the explanation was just as I expected. Basically, it is a new restaurant and, as all new restaurants go, they are going through a series of adjustments and improvements as they go along. This- to just about anyone, I suppose- is perfectly understandable.

And, honestly, if you look around Lu’s well-lit dining room, you do not see even traces of displeasure from any of Lu’s genteel guests. The kitchen was backed-up a bit because of the full house that night, and yet the vibe in the room remains pleasant, even jovial. I believe it’s simply because people like the place and what it’s about- good, beautifully plated food, served in fine-looking surroundings, from a man that clearly has a passion for what he is doing. (Note: The word is that Lu will be changing up its menu every four to six months. That, to me, is dedication.) People get it, and in turn, appreciate it. Like them, I’m sitting and waiting to see the wonders that I believe this restaurant is capable of.



Lu
G/F Joya Lofts and Towers
Joya Drive, Rockwell
Makati City
Tel. no. (632)4033991

Mommy at Mamou

My poor Mom.

The couple of times we celebrated a relative's birthday at Mamou, she and my Dad were always late. I never thought it bothered her, though. She never really mentioned it. Until recently, a few days before her birthday, my sister Foxychef asked her where she wanted to have her birthday dinner via SMS, and she quickly replied, "Mamou".

This was definitely a first. She never requested for a specific restaurant on her birthday, it was always "Up to you guys" or "What do you sugggest?" When she later on explained why, I so got what she meant. Imagine arriving late for a dinner at Mamou and having to settle for the last few slices of steak. I can smell my own frustration just thinking about it.

Luckily, we were able to reserve a table for ten on the evening of her birthday. Initially, the dining room was already booked and we were given a table outside. But, in the late afternoon, I received a text message from FOH manager Annie that we were moved inside. Nice.

Malou Fores' resto is one of the busiest restaurants in Serendra. Bloggers used to nitpick and complain about the fact that there are only two seatings during dinner- either 6:30 or 8:30PM. But I think fans have learned to forgive that, or have eventually gotten used to the concept. It is, after all, common practice in some of New York's restaurants to do this in order to maximize their seating capacity. After eating there a number of times, I have realized that even when you take the earlier seating, you do not feel rushed and that 2 hours is ample time to enjoy a great meal.

The whole family was present for our early dinner, naturally- Dad, the celebrant, Me, Matt, Queenbee and her family- husband Marc and daughter Nana and Foxychef. We started with Cracked Cheese and Sliced Fuet (a Catalonian salami) and their popular Truffle Oil and Mushroom Dip with melba toast. I liked dipping the cheese in the honey, loving the contrast of sweet and salty. The dip is obviously a no-brainer: You just can't go wrong with mushroom and truffle oil. We also shared an order of Healdsburg's Harvest Salad.

We also shared generous servings of main courses: Two orders of the Angus Rib-eye steak done two ways- the smaller one is done medium rare, and the bigger one medium well; Beer Battered Fish and Potato Wedges; Roast Chicken and Pork; Lorenzo's Truffle Cream Pasta.

The steaks at Mamou have the tendency to be inconsistent. But when it is good, it is very, very good. This time, luckily, it was the latter. the steaks were broiled to perfection and served in huge white platters tipped-up on one side ala Peter Luger so the natural fats and meat juices would gather on the lower end. These are then scooped up to be drizzled on the sliced steaks to keep them moist and tasty. I usually eat my steaks with mashed potato and creamed spinach, but there were also servings of their Steak white and red rice.

Another winner in their arsenal of gourmet "home-style" cooking is the Beer Battered Fish and Potato Wedges. I remember a past conversation with the chef that they could not call it Fish and Chips because of a minor technicality. Nevertheless, it tastes pretty authentic to me, the local dark beer naturally browning the crust and keeping it moist and airy. A squeeze of lemon neutralizes the deep-fried richness of the dish, and dipping the fries in the thick tartare sauce rounds it all up.

The Cuban-inspired Roast Chicken and Pork was also a hit with my parents. I was preoccupied with the other dishes on the table and did not really pay attention to it (sorry, my babies) but my Dad loved the fried bananas.

Lorenzo's Truffle Cream pasta was also a great side for the steaks, and a new favorite of Nana's. Despite everyone's obvious attempt at resisting this high-carb/high-fat dish, we simply could not say no. Ignoring my 3-year-old niece's glares, I contributed greatly to finishing a plate of the stuff.

With the meal, the few of us who drank wine shared a bottle of Paul Jaboulet Aine Les Jalets Crozes-Hermitage 2005. It might have been too young, or could have used a bit of decanting, which resulted in a tightly-wound wine. Later on it seemed to have opened up a bit more, and I had a peep at its potentially earthy, minerally qualities.

Since we brought a birthday cake for my mom to blow out, we did not order desserts. The cake from Sugarhouse (I forget the name) was very good and not too sweet. Matt is a fan.

Mom had a great time, obviously, and I was happy that she found the food in Mamou to be very good. Its actually a great place for a nice, relaxed family dinner where you can enjoy good food in a warm, unintimidating ambience. Plus, they don't charge corkage. That's not bad at all.

Happy Birthday, Mom! You're the best... Chi.

Mamou- A Home Kitchen
Serendra
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig
Tel. no. (632) 8563569