Quick Bites: Achiote's Guacamole

When I was a tiny foodie, I associated avocado with breakfast. Growing up in Antipolo, we had seasonal harvests from the avocado tree in my grandma’s backyard. Naturally, we would eat them the way my mother grew up eating them, and that is grated into thin, spaghetti-like strands, showered with white sugar, and doused with a lot of fresh milk. Groggy, my sisters and I would eat them before we left for the five-minute ride to school, energized soon enough by the fatty fruit and strung out from all the sugar.

When I discovered Mexican food, I became aware that avocado can be savory, too. And it is delicious. Guacamole is an avocado-based salsa which is served alongside some of the more popular Mexican dishes, such as quesadillas, tacos and nachos. But once in a while, it does take center stage, such as in Rosa Mexicano at Columbus St. in Manhattan, where young and trendy New Yorkers scarf them down with blue corn chips and pomegranate Margaritas. The first time I tried them almost a decade ago, prepared table-side and served in what looks like an Aztec artifact, I was immediately hooked on the stuff and would search far and wide for something that would come close in flavor and quality.

Finally, and without much fanfare, I discovered the Naked Guacamole in Achiote. Matt and I were excited about their other dishes- tortas for Matt, tacos for me- and ordered their guac with chips and salsa more as a mandatory appetizer. “Pre-game”, if you will. It arrived quickly in its chilled margarita glass, majestically rising an impressive four-inches from the base. I scoop up a sizeable amount with a crisp tortilla chip and very little expectations.

It was love at first bite. The pronounced flavors of scallions, tomato and cilantro with the creamy chunks of avocado were immediately addicting. This guac is not your run-of-the-mill condiment that you slather on top of a cheese quesadilla- it commands your full attention, with only a crisp corn chip acting as a tasty spoon. I am happy and smitten… and delighted that I no longer need to hop on a plane for excellent guacamole.



Achiote Tequeria
G/F Powerplant Mall
Rockwell, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 9229336

This Chihuahua's Got Cojones

Funny how just five years ago, I remember noticing a void in Manila’s foodscape and found myself asking: Where did all the Mexican restaurants go?

I have been alive long enough to see how the common Pinoy’s fascination with Mexican food has evolved. The early incarnations were nothing great- quite edible but never beyond mediocre, to say the least. These Mexican joints of the 80’s and 90’s were mostly either dark, cavernous drinking spots, which are actually more popular for their pitchers of Zombie than their food (think Tia Maria’s), or small fast-food-type stalls that churn out soft tacos with microwaved ground beef (think Miggy’s). With globalization acting like a nuclear bomb, our exposure to what is deemed to be proper Mexican (or its half-breed cousins, Baja-style and Tex-Mex) virtually wiped out Mexican food as we knew it. We began looking to the American franchises as the benchmarks for what Mexican food should be- Friday’s fajitas, Taco Bell’s soft tacos and Chili’s Margaritas.



But any self-respecting Mexican food lover would soon realize that these bastardized recipes are not the real deal, not even close. Soon enough, even the dizzying allure of Chili’s softball-sized sour cream just does not cut it.



Enter the new breed of Manila’s Mexican restaurants. Mostly run by actual Mexicans or Filipino balikbayans, these restauranteurs claim to know what real Mexican food should look, smell and taste like. Terms like “carne asada”, “chipotlé” and “molé” have now become part of the local vocabulary, having been introduced as some of the major components in Mexican cuisine that we previously knew nothing about. Every newly-opened Mexican joint promised to be more authentic than the last, offering something fresh and exciting that Manila’s food addicts have never seen before.



Chihuahua Mexican Grill is part of the Mexican “boom” that has infiltrated the metro. Owners Elian and Ines are prominent personalities in the local food industry, having published a coffee table book together called Manila’s Best-Kept Restaurant Secrets, and each doing their own thing that keeps them constantly in the scene. It’s always fun bumping into them at food and wine events, with their animated storytelling and easy-going personalities. It is almost no surprise that they have decided to open a Mexican resto since I imagine them being perfectly at home in the middle of a crazy tequila-laced fiesta.



The food is decidedly Tex-Mex (Elian, although of Lebanese descent, grew up Texan), so the food is quite familiar. The difference lies, I believe, in how these simple dishes were prepared.



The Nacho Grande, for instance, although served in a utilitarian stainless mixing bowl, is out-of-this-world- crisp corn tortillas topped generously with chili con carne, sour cream, pico de gallo, guacamole, jalapeños and cheese. It doesn’t matter if the chip you got had more chili than guac, or more salsa than sour cream. Every inch of that bowl was packed with flavor, and I had to restrain myself from finishing the entire bowl on my own.



Matt and I shared the basket of tacos, which came in threes. The chopped chicken and pork came topped with pico de gallo, shredded lettuce and sour cream. If it looks spare, no need to worry- take a pit stop at the salsa station and you are free to load it up with as much sauce as you wish. There is also a selection of hot sauces to choose from, but I believe only a few bottles are opened at a time.



Although the tacos weren’t my numero uno dish, it was not lacking in flavor, therefore I could not help but enjoy the tacos nonetheless. The fresh habañero salsa was spot-on and gave the dish the kick it needed.



The burrito bowl with grilled chicken is another dish I liked a lot- I loved the moist, aromatic rice and the dense texture of the refried beans.



Something that is a universal favorite is the steak burrito, which my friends and I are hooked on. The thinly-sliced beef is tender and tasty, and the burrito as a whole is deliciously moist. This I will order for myself on my next visit. No sharing, Matt.

And, of course, a self-professed lush cannot step foot into a Mexican joint and not have a Margarita. A good one, in my opinion, has to be strong and tart- Chihuahua’s version delivers on both counts. Their frozen Margaritas have quite the knock-out punch, and even I- quite the ‘rita expert- had to restrain myself from ordering more than one since I did not want to lose that delicious dinner. It was hard to hold back, though, because those things are pretty darn good.



Another thing that is so awesome about this place is that they are open until the wee hours. So, those looking for a Mexican fix after a drinking binge in Makati can happily munch on a burrito at 3AM.

From the onset, Chihuahua seems to have all the components that make a successful Mexican resto- deliciously-potent Margaritas, addicting bowl of nachos, familiar and tasty dishes done right. These guys know what they’re doing and I believe the good food and the little details- special hot sauces, Mexican-sized (yes, they are almost the height of an actual Mexican) tequila shots- are those things that will keep people coming back. I, for one, am one of those people cheering them on, because God knows we all need a burrito at 3AM once in a while.



Chuhuahua Mexican Grill
7838 Makati Ave. (right across A.Venue)
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 897 0087

Making Baja-Style Fish Tacos

I wake up one morning and see that my mom has sent me an early text message. In a nutshell, it’s reminding me that I have a bag of avocados in the kitchen and I should do something (anything!) with them before they go bad. These avocados came from a very fertile tree in the family compound in Antipolo where my sisters and I grew up.

Now that I am living in a concrete jungle, I miss those days when we could get fresh fruits from our own (and our neighbors’… Tee hee.) backyard. Fruit trees were abundant- Santol, Kaimito, Mango, Kasuy, Macopa, Guava, Kamias- and all we had to do was have the gardener bring out his stylized fruit-picking stick and tug away at whatever fruit was in season. Luckily, an uncle who still lives there makes sure that everyone in the family gets their share of the season’s harvests. And, luckily, there were enough avocados during the last harvest to go around.

So, what does a Mexican food lover do when life gives her a bag of avocados? She makes guacamole, of course! And, after weighing the different levels of difficulty of my favorite Mexican dishes in my head, I decide that I would attempt to make my favorite taco of the moment- Baja-style Fish Tacos.

Baja is on the coast of Southern California and very close to the San Diego-Mexico border. I’ve never been, but I’m pretty sure its proximity to the border makes it a hot-spot for good Mexican grub. The first time I tried this dish was in Baja Mexican Cantina in Greenbelt 3, and I immediately fell in love with the crispy, beer-battered crust, the pungent sauce, and the textural element of the sliced cabbage.

As I did my research for what should be authentic Baja fish tacos, I discovered that the ones at Baja Mexican Cantina are pretty spot on. But, as any popular dish goes, there are a few variations here and there. The standard recipe is pretty straight-forward and composed of four components from the bottom, up- 1) soft flour or corn tortilla, 2) battered and fried fish, 3)white sauce, and 4)fresh sliced cabbage. Some cooks who prefer a more subtle flavor for the fish opt for a cornmeal crust, but I personally like beer-battered food so I decide to roll with it. (For a lighter beer taste, I decided to use San Mig Light) A popular addition to the standard recipe is either a topper of fresh pico de gallo salsa or guacamole. And, if you are a master of the obvious, you would know what I decided to include in my recipe.

So, as you can see, there are no hard rules on how to make YOUR perfect taco. The beauty of Mexican food is that there are a myriad of spices, salsas, herbs and seasonings that you can add or remove to make your taco your own. Go mild or go wild… It’s your choice. Everyone seems to be a Mexican food expert these days (Yes, douchebag, I’m talking about YOU), but do not let them tell you what to do.

Anyway, it’s fiesta time.

Baja-style Fish Tacos (serves 4)

Ingredients:
2 Cream Dory (or any white fish) fillets, approximately 300 g. each
3 cups vegetable oil
½ cup all-purpose flour
8 flour tortillas
½ a head of cabbage, sliced thin
1 lime, cut into wedges
A few sprigs of cilantro, for garnish
Hot sauce (optional)

Batter:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 egg, beaten
1 bottle of light pilsner
2 teaspoons salt

White Sauce:
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon Spanish paprika

Guacamole (optional):
2 medium avocados, cubed
1 medium red onion, finely-diced
3 cloves garlic, finely-minced
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
2 small tomatoes, finely-diced
½ lime
Salt and pepper

To make the Guacamole:
- In a medium bowl, pile on the avocados, red onions, garlic and tomatoes.
- Sprinkle cilantro over the mix and squeeze the lime into it, careful not to drop in the seeds. Season with salt and pepper. Mix vigorously until there is a nice creamy consistency, but still chunky.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the white sauce:
- In a medium bowl, mix all the ingredients together.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the beer batter:
- In a medium mixing bowl, put the dry ingredients (flour, salt and cornstarch) in and mix well. Add in the beer and egg. Mix everything together until well-integrated. (Do not worry about the small lumps, they won’t affect the quality of the crust.)

Cooking the fish:
- Heat the oil in a medium pot (make sure the oil is at least 2 inches high) over a medium-high fire. When you start seeing little ripples in the oil, you’re there.
- Slice the Cream Dory fillets into four equal parts, leaving you with eight pieces.
- Dredge the fish in flour, dunk them into the batter, and into the fryer. Cook the fish 2-3 pieces at the time to maintain the temperature of the oil. It takes around 2-3 minutes for the fish to fry, depending on its thickness. A nice golden coat is usually a good indication that its ready.

To heat the flour tortillas:
- The easiest way is to pile all eight tortillas on top of each other on a microwaveable plate, cover with a paper towel, and heat at “high” for 45 seconds.



Assembly is easy and fun. Just lay out two flour tortillas on a plate, top with one fish each, drizzle on some white sauce and top with some cabbage. Since I like cilantro, I put a few sprigs of it on top of the tacos with a couple wedges of lime as a garnish. And, of course, we should not forget the condiment containing the prized ingredient that started this all- a nice dollop of freshly-made guacamole on the side of the plate.

Vamos a comer!

Best Tacos Ever

I don’t like using superlatives, simply because I myself don’t like being told what to do. When somebody says that something is “the best”- According to whom? You? Who died and made you the expert? Anyway, it annoys me, so I try not to do it. I prefer to say things like, “it’s my favorite cava” or “it’s the best pizza I have tried in Manila”. Things like that. But for me to dub something as “the best, period”, I don’t think I would be able to live with myself. I have a very low tolerance for arrogance, even if it is me.

But I will have to break my own rules with this one. This one I loved so much that I was thinking about it constantly for days. Even while I was eating it, I was already wondering how I could possibly deal with the mediocrity that is everything else after that. That is how amazing this dish was.

After a long day at the Kennedy Space Center, we (Me, Matt and Carlos) were famished and ready for a good meal. Carlos- his silver bimmer equipped with its powerful engine and some speeding-ticket-evading gadget- was zooming through the freeway toward, what he claimed, were the best tacos we would ever try. After our arepas experience, I knew that I could trust him on this one. I happily napped as the dimming Florida landscape whizzed by, knowing that when I awaken I would be having some delicious grub.



We arrived 45 minutes later at Tacos Del Rio- the same spot where we had our arepas a couple of weeks before. It was a small joint, seating 15 at the most. We placed our orders at the counter, which Carlos expertly did in rapid Spanish. As usual, I just told him I would have whatever he was having.



We ordered some Mexican beers called Modelo Especial- a premium pilsner made by the same company which produces Corona. Nice and crisp, perfectly-balanced, this beer was just too drinkable. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but this is one pilsner I can literally drink all day. Just give me two coconut trees, a hammock in between, and I’m set.



When our food arrived, we headed towards the gleaming salsa station to top our tacos with whatever condiments we wanted. On the left side were the mild salsas- including some guacamole, refried beans and sour cream- while on the right side were the hot salsas in different shades of green and red. In between were an assortment of fresh vegetables and herbs- diced onions, tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, the works. After some instructions from Carlos, we dove in.





I had a combination of three tacos topped with various meats- lengua (ox tongue), beef and pastor. All the meats are sliced and marinated the night before, and then quickly cooked on the griddle before being served. All except for the pastor- or spit-roasted porkloin- which is roasted in the morning on a shawarma-like contraption, and then cut into strips upon being ordered. These are put on top of soft corn tortilla, made in-house, everyday. All the salsas are also made fresh, everyday, and you could tell. I topped my tacos with some guacamole, sour cream, cilantro, and some of the spicy salsa verde.

On first bite, all of my preconceived ideas about Mexican food just flew out the window. The flavors and textures were so different from what I have been used to. First of all, there is no dominant spice- there was no pungent cumin or chili powder that jumps out. It was a perfectly-balanced medley of fresh herbs, taut and crisp vegetables, and the smokiness from the meats. The tortilla is a unique character on its own- its texture is something that I have never experience before. The freshly-ground corn imparts a fine graininess that adds bite to what is otherwise deemed merely as a wrapper.

And let’s talk about the heat. Mexican chilies seem to hit you a different way. It does not come at you up front- it attacks later on, almost predatorily, when you least expect it. Matt was an unlucky victim of this, thinking that he was up to the challenge being quite the hot sauce lover. He piled on the spicy salsa with the menacing orange tinge, since his first bite was bearable. Little did he know that the heat slowly creeps up at you, and not in your mouth, where you expect it to hit. You start feeling this searing heat coming from your neck, climbing up all the way to the top of your head. What you get is the uncontrollable urge to dunk your head into a tub of ice.



After Matt got some relief from washing his face in the bathroom with cold water, Carlos recommended that we try their dessert- a tequila-flavored flan. That, too, was delicious- the tequila added a flavor dimension that was not overbearing- just a subtle zing that you get in the end with alcohol. It was so good I ordered it again the second time we ate there, but alas, they were out of it.



I love it when food surprises me. This just goes to show that it pays to have an open mind when it comes to food, and to avoid pigeon-holing foods and flavors. Have I stuck to my profile of Mexican food (heavy on the cumin and cilantro), then I would not have appreciated the fresh and bright flavors of authentic tacos.

As we finish off our beers, I look at Carlos (Matt is still shell-shocked from the salsa and is, therefore, unintelligible) with concern, brows furrowed, and ask,” How do we come back from this?” He lets out a hearty laugh then stops, looks at me sympathetically, and says, “You don’t.”



Tacos Del Rio
9785C Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando, FL
Tel. no. (407)601 1542
http://www.tacosdelrio.com/

Bring Me to Baja

Mexican food and I have had a long-running love affair. Like a lot of Filipinos, it started with Pancake House’s Best Tacos in Town. Believe me, it deserves that name. The flour shell -crisp and flaky- cradles ground beef that is distinctly smoky and pleasantly sweetish, the tomato salsa always fresh and slightly tangy. With a few sprinkles of Tobasco, it is probably one of the most addicting dishes I have ever encountered. From then on, my fascination with Mexican cuisine has grown to include other dishes such as steak burrito, chicken enchiladas, quesadillas, all washed down with a potent Margarita on the rocks.

Sadly, for the longest time, the Philippine culinary landscape was lacking in really good Mexican joints with staying power. There were a few that attempted to penetrate the local food market dominated by Chicken Joy, and some were actually quite good. But, for one reason or another, all of these exclusively-Mexican restaurants or food stalls just cannot keep up with other foreign flavors that have infiltrated our shores. So, when Matt and I wanted really good Mexican food, the closest would be Manana in Boracay’s White Beach.

That is why you could imagine our excitement when a couple of our friends told us that they are opening a proper Mexican restaurant in Makati. When Baja had its soft opening, we were one of the first ones there. The food at that time, I must admit, was just ok. Not disappointing, but at the same time, not the drool-inducing flavors that I was hoping for. It took a while for us to make our second visit, which was once again pleasant, but not mind blowing.

Then, just recently, there was a buzz amongst my friends in Facebook about the re-vamped menu of Baja. Art- one of the owners- decided to add a few more dishes and also tweaked the recipes a bit, hoping to counter the luke-warm reception his new “baby” was being given by Manila’s Mexican food lovers. Suddenly, I was hearing raves about their food, especially the fish tacos. I have never tried this particular taco flavor before, thinking that any Mexican dish out of California (where this dish is most popular) must be void of fat or sodium, therefore lacking in the flavor department. But then, the clamor for it was just relentless, so I knew I had to try it. Besides, they have several flavors of Margaritas- using only top-shelf ingredients- and that I can certainly not say “no” to.

One Friday evening, Matt and I- along with our good German friend, Tilo- met TG-Boy and Rocky at Baja for dinner before a night of dancing and drinking. Being a payday, the place was packed with yuppies celebrating the end of yet another work week. Luckily, TG-Boy and Rocky arrived early and were able to get a nice comfy table inside. The interiors are fun and campy, like a laid-back cantina strewn with southwestern décor and brilliant, festive colors.

>

To get the night rolling, I ordered a single Melon Margarita. They have a bigger one, but I always order the smaller ones because I enjoy trying the different flavors that they offer. Baja’s margaritas are probably one of the best ones I have tried in the country, second only to those of American franchise, Chili’s.

Matt and I decided to share two dishes. First to arrive was the Carne Asada Burrito- a rolled flour tortilla stuffed with shredded marinated beef, guacamole, beans, salsa and rice. I remember liking their carne asada tacos, but this time it was even tastier and served at a better temperature. I would have wanted more condiments with it, but that was entirely my fault. I should have asked. (Note: Their traditional burritos do not contain rice. So, if you are used to your burritos having rice like I do, make sure to inform your waiter.)

Then, a huge plate big enough to have a town fiesta on arrived at our table. It contained the much talked about Taco Platter- four tacos (regular, chicken, carne asada and fish), cheese quesadillas, chips and salsas. I have seen quite a few spectacular food presentations, but this one definitely takes you aback. The serving is quite generous, big enough to be a grown man’s main course or split into four as an appetizer. This is definitely their signature dish. The regular ground beef taco is actually reminiscent of Pancake house, only supersized and meatier (and it comes in a soft tortilla). The carne asada, as I mentioned, is also tasty, and the same goes for the chicken. But what truly takes the prize is the fish taco. Imagine the best beer-battered fish you’ve ever tasted, but with a southwestern kick, smothered in a peppery, aromatic mayo, topped with fresh lettuce, tomatoes and lots of cheese. (Expletive deleted.) Really, there’s nothing left to say. No kidding, I’m spiritually eating it right now.

This restaurant is truly deserving of a second chance. Since I am friends with some of the owners, I am happy that the food has improved so much that I can write a good review about it. As much as I love my friends, I also have to be fair to my five (and counting!) readers and give my accurate and objective opinions about restaurants and their food.

So, is Pancake House’s Best Taco in Town still deserving of its moniker? Honestly, I think they should be scared.

Baja Mexican Cantina
3/F Greenbelt 3
Ayala Center, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 7560127