A Taste of the Holy Land

I have never had Israeli food before. Not because I didn’t want to- the Philippines is not exactly a hotbed for Jews. However, one of my hunger-induced Facebook statuses (something like “this country needs a good Jewish deli!”) caught the attention of a friend who has Israeli connections and told me about a remarkable Kosher meal a friend of his prepared recently. It was not the New York-style corned beef sandwich I was craving for, but it definitely aroused my interest. One thing led to another, and before I knew it, I was sitting down to a beautifully laid-out spread of Israeli dishes with Matt and a few friends.

 Our friends Dudu and Marie O. introduced us to young and charming Iyar, a Jewish expatriate based in Manila. For us (and a few other food lovers we brought along), he gamely prepared a lovely meal featuring the popular Israeli dishes he used to serve in his own restaurant back home.

The meal began with Moroccan Spicy Fish- maya-maya flavored strongly with cumin and coriander. Iyar admits to being adverse to salt, and it was most evident in this particular dish. However, it was a fitting prologue to this exotic meal as it features a flavor profile that I admit is surprisingly unfamiliar to me despite the use of common ingredients. Fine, it’s Moroccan, but its good and he prepared it well, so no complaints here.

 Iyar explained that a traditional Israeli meal features a wide assortment of salads- ranging from savory dips to refreshing chopped vegetables. Although he has expressed his disdain for locally-produced pita bread, he found the ones at Arya Restaurant to be quite good so he bought some from them to accompany the salads.

Our host is most proud of his Hummus, and rightfully so- the chickpeas are pureed until silky-smooth (sorry, I couldn’t resist the “Zohan” reference) and mixed with high-quality Tahini (sesame paste) that he brings in from Israel. Topped with spices and some pine nuts for extra flavor and texture, it was a hit, especially with a friend who admits to being a hummus addict.

I love Moutabal, and I have to admit that Iyar’s was one of the best (and prettiest) I have had so far. It has that perfect balance between the roasted eggplant and garlic, not one overpowering the other.

The most talked about salad/dip that evening would have to be the Matbuha, painstakingly prepared by cooking down huge, ripe tomatoes (the best he can find, Iyar shared) until rich and concentrated like a paste. This is traditionally served alongside grilled meats as a condiment, lending a sweet and tangy flavor to the dish. It really was quite addicting, even just slathered on pita.

As a side dish to grilled meats, a light but tasty accompaniment would be this Cucumber, Tomato and Carrot Salad. Mildly-flavored with lemon and some herbs, it lends textural contrast alongside the pureed dishes.

Matt the Cheese Lover was infatuated with the Fresh Cheese. I mean… It’s fresh cheese. How could you not, right? Made from thick yogurt, it is slightly tangy but creamy. I found myself wishing there was more of it, or perhaps less people to share it with.

Falafel is one of the most popular middle-eastern dishes, and as a result, probably the most bastardized. I was really excited to try Iyar’s version, knowing that this is the closest I would ever come to an authentic falafel. However, with our generous host’s desire to serve us a wide array of dishes, his falafels have grown cold awaiting its moment in the spotlight. Hopefully, I would get another chance to try them when they are freshly-cooked.

Thankfully, the Grilled Meats (an assortment of chopped chicken meat, hearts and liver) more than made up for the void left by the falafel. It was flavorful and pungent- “like kofta”, the chef in our group shared. This is typical Israeli fast food, stuffed in a pita with salad and hummus. Delightful!

The centerpiece is definitely the Maloube- a rice dish stuffed with lamb chops and eggplant. The rice on its own was so buttery and smoky, flavored with the juices of the tender lamb. Iyar admitted earlier on that the rice in the middle might be undercooked, but fortunately I had none of that on my plate. If I wasn’t watching my carbs, the rice on its own was so tasty I could have definitely had more of it.

 What a blessing it was to have been invited to this dinner. I learned so much about Israeli food, not only from the actual experience of eating it, but also from the discussion among foodies that ensued after. Thank you so much to our gracious host!

Quick Bites: Halal Chicken Over Rice

As a foodie walking around the streets of New York, I noticed a big change since the first few times I visited the city.  Sidewalks that were once dominated by the ubiquitous hotdog stand now shares it with what used to be considered exotic fare- Halal food. 

                

Halal foods are described as “foods allowed under Islamic dietary guidelines”.  What initially comes to my mind is a highly restricted diet wherein flavors are compromised in the name of religion and health.  However, I soon discover that following certain guidelines does not in any way result in bland and boring food- something New Yorkers have obviously discovered these past few years.

               

I have heard about Chicken Over Rice from my young relatives who, on numerous occasions, have stumbled out of a New York City bar or club and were lured by the scent of chicken or lamb cooked over a hot griddle.  

We were told that the best halal cart can be found at 53^rd St. and 6^th Ave., but unfortunately we never found ourselves in that area.  However, we did find a cart in front of Mt. Sinai Hospital and, like most that were within a 20-foot radius of the spot, we were lassoed in by the aromas of exotic spices and meat.

                

The choices are very simple: chicken, lamb or falafel accompanied by either rice or flat bread (or both).  I initially tried the popular Chicken Over Rice, but later on I have discovered that a combo of lamb and chicken is a tastier option.  The allure seems to lie on the pungent mixture of spices- from the flavorful rice, to the marinated meats, to the spicy kick of the red sauce and garlic yogurt.  It is a full-on attack on the senses, and at $6 a plate, an amazing deal in a notoriously expensive town.  

A Sunday with Friends and Masala

Matt and I have wanted to try Al-Shams ever since we saw friends posting about it on Facebook. My husband is particularly fond of spicy dishes, and he has since introduced to me the rich masalas of India and the pungent kebabs of the Middle East. My stomach has become weak- thanks to years of using ice-cold Coke as a hangover cure- and could not handle too many spices, but once in a while I do develop a craving for rogan josh or chicken makanwala. Finally, one sleepy Sunday, Matt, Mark V., and I traverse a short length of the SLEX to get to the emergent foodie destination in Parañaque.



Al-Shams’ interiors are brightly-lit and modern- no kitschy murals of the Taj Mahal or saris draped on the walls. Instead, framed photos of enticing curry dishes and grilled meats act as guide and a visual amuse bouche for guests.



The menu is a mix of Middle Eastern, Indian and Pakistani. The original Al-Shams had branches in both Makati and Manila decades ago, but only re-opened recently in BF Homes with partners Adil Khan and Ali Atienza (old friends from their Taekwondo days) at the helm. Adil is the son of the previous owner, and the current chef was part of the original kitchen. Therefore, what you get in the current incarnation are all authentic Al-Shams dishes, prepared the same way as they did in the old branches.





We started with our favorite Indian staples- Vegetable Samosas and fried Papadum. The samosas were warm and aromatic, just the right size for an appetizer, while the papadum (which can also be toasted) was light, crisp and delicate. These were both enhanced by a trio of sauces- sweet tamarind, parsley and garlic yogurt.



For the mains- first to arrive were the Chicken Makanwala (chicken cubes cooked in a rich butter and yogurt sauce), Seekh Kebab (grilled ground beef) and naan (flat bread).



The chicken makanwala has always been a favorite, and I like Al-Shams’ version because it is not overly gee-d. There was a pleasant tanginess which I suppose can be attributed to the yogurt and the whole tomato (which I stabbed with my fork to release some of its juices). This I sopped up with pieces of naan.



Freshly grilled, the seekh kabab was tender and full of flavor, and delicious with the tzatziki that it came with. If you want your kababs with a more pungent garlic sauce, ask for the one that was served with the appetizers.





The Ran Masala was a popular dish at the old Al-Shams, and I remembered Sanju’s nostalgic post about it in his blog so I decided it was worth a try. I am so happy that I did because that was definitely the dish of the evening- tender leg of lamb cooked in an unctuous brown sauce, the meat’s mild gamey flavor was deliciously enhanced by the robust masala. It was so good that we ordered more of the equally tasty biryani with it.



And, since we had more of the long-grain rice, Matt thought, “What the heck… Might as well get an order of rogan josh.” Which we did. The mutton was tender and tasty- a pretty good dish. But then, that ran masala is a tough act to follow.

By then, Ali and Adil have arrived at the restaurant for what apparently is their traditional Sunday ritual. Ali, an old family friend, invites us to join him and Adil for a short chat. He himself orders his own ran masala with roti- a partly flaky, partly elastic bread- but made extra spicy. After our nth “I’m-sooo-full”, Adil decided to give Mark and I some Persian tea, which helped bring down the unbelievable amount of food we just consumed (Ali: “Umm… yeah… Medyo nagulat nga ako sa in-order niyo.”). After a round of scotch and some animated conversation about food, friends and bullies, we have decided to leave the old friends to enjoy the rest of their Sunday, with the promise that we will be back soon for more of that delicious ran masala.

Keep that pot of Persian tea boiling, guys.



Al-Shams
Aguirre St.
BF Homes, Parañaque
Tel. no. (632) 5004399

Not Just Shawarma

One balmy Wednesday, Matt and I- along with our favorite foodie couple Sanju and Cutie- braved the Baclaran Day traffic and headed to Manila for what should be some really delicious Persian food. With Middle Eastern cuisine quickly being integrated into the Filipino diet (I do not know anyone who has not tried shawarma), I am actually curious to find what could be considered as authentic Keema (ground beef sautéed in spices) and Kebabs. Shawarma Snack Center (SSC) in Ermita comes highly recommended by the abovementioned couple, and so far, Matt and I pointed out that they have yet to disappoint us.



Seeing the imposing two-level restaurant, I quickly assume that this is not just a shawarma joint. At the door, you are greeted by two Egyptian statues that look like they belong in the Guggenheim Hermitage Museum and not in the middle of the former red light district. Once inside, though, the décor is purely utilitarian, save for a few Arabian lamps hanging from the ceiling. There is a display counter with various pickled vegetables and some ready-made dips and salads. What really struck me, though, was the crowd: almost all of the diners were Middle-eastern baby boomers, either sipping tea or sharing a shesha pipe or both. This, if anything, is a strong sign of the restaurant’s authenticity.



We let our friends order for us since, judging from their repartee with the manager, they appeared to be long-time patrons of the restaurant. Matt and I had a few favorites that we told them about and they happily obliged us.




To start things off, we had some Beef and Hummus (sautéed ground beef on top of a chickpea and tahini dip) and Motabal (grilled eggplant and yougurt dip) with flat bread. The beef and hummus was just alright, although I appreciated the fact that they included whole chickpeas to the mix. I love Motabal, even the commercialized variety, so SSC’s version was a winner for me. Matt, who is not a big fan of eggplant, thought so, too.



The mains for sharing came in rapid succession, and our table was almost too small for the amount of food that was coming our way. My all-time favorite Keema did not fail to impress. The flavors emanating from the ground beef was just right- fragrant, oily (in a good way) and with just the right amount of heat. With a little bit of garlic sauce, it was simply off-the-charts. If you love Keema as much as I do, this might be the benchmark for all the other local Persian restaurants.



I admit the Keema can still be subject of debate, but SSC’s Ox Brain is undeniably the best I have ever tried. As we were ordering, the manager said that it was out-of-stock, but seeing our sad, pathetic faces after that, she got some from the original- but much smaller- SSC right across. This is truly the stuff of legend- the brain was generously flavored with garlic and completely devoid of the funkiness you sometimes get from ox brain. The texture was that of a very creamy scrambled egg, its taste similar to that of penoy (the more edible part of the infamous balut). I know that the comparison could not possibly help its case, but you have to try it for yourself. Just dab a bit of it on any protein and the instant effect is that of foie gras- adding instant richness and umami.



We also ordered Beef Kebab, which was a favorite of ours. Unfortunately, it was quite dry and the flavor was oddly overpowering.



Any good Middle-Eastern meal would not be complete without lamb, so we ordered the Sizzling Lamb which was recommended by the manager. It was quite good and Matt liked it a lot because it was extremely tender and seasoned to perfection. I was still fixated on the Keema at this point, so I barely touched it. Matt did not mind, I’m sure.





Another surprise hit was the Chili Liver- sliced beef liver sautéed with green chili. Again, the flavors were so clean that it tasted more like a steak than innards. This dish was perfect with the tasty and fluffy Biryani rice.

To accompany our carnivorous spread, Cutie ordered a refreshing cucumber salad- it was the perfect side dish to balance the fattiness of the meat and the heat of the spices. Simple yet very effective.



Stuffed from our heavy, protein-rich dinner, we needed a little help with digestion. Sanju had some strong Turkish Coffee, while Matt, Cutie and I shared a pot of the equally-strong Rabea tea. To top it all off, we also shared two shesa pipes- one apple flavored, the other lemon. It was a truly delightful experience, smoking that pipe and sipping tea, surrounded by Middle-Easterns as we all watched a World Cup match on the flat-screen. I almost felt like I was in a Turkish café, just absorbing the local color. It felt different, yet comfortable.

We capped-off the evening with a few drinks at Café Havana in Adriatico St., since SSC did not serve liquor, like most Persian restaurants in the country. After some mojitos, beers and a round of shots, we were ready to call it a night, pretty sure that by then, it was safe to sleep after that huge and delicious dinner. No nightmares that night, only sweet dreams about Bradley Cooper and ox brain.



Shawarma Snack Center
R. Salas cor. A. Mabini Streets
Ermita, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 5254541

Sisig on My Mind

I can never give up sisig.

I do not eat the Kapampangan dish as often as I used to. Back in college, lunch was often sisig at the original Dencio's Grill in Katipunan where the sizzling bits of pork face was nice and crunchy, doused in Knorr seasoning, Mama Sita hot sauce and calamansi. Sometimes, after going to the gym in Ultra with my boyfriend at the time, we would ignore the cramped space and questionable hygene to have the famous, artery-clogging sisig at Aycee's.

Recently, Cookie Goddess had a craving of her own and invited me and a few friends to try out the sisig at Kebur which her friend highly recommends. Said friend is actually vegetarian, but he told her that when he feels like "cheating", he gets his fix by feasting on the pork dish. If its good enough to turn a vegetarian momentarily carnivorous, it must be pretty special. T-Boy, Sexcretary and I meet up at Cookie Goddess' house in Greenhills which is a few minutes away from Kebur. We decided to carpool since it was raining and some of us were not familiar with the area. When we found the street, we drove really slow, trying to find the signage of the restaurant. With our combined effort, we were able to spot it without passing it.

Kebur turned out to be a small carinderia, complete with Monoblock chairs and folding formica-topped tables. Lighting was quite dim with the soft glow of a TV visible from the outside. The crowd was mostly people from the neighborhood and a few working stiffs (both blue and white collared) who come to unwind for a meal and a few beers. When we arrived, the place was full, and we stood around for a minute looking around uncomfortably until we spotted a small table outside. Two gentlemen in their office attires graciously offered the chairs they did not need, and curiously chatted us up. They gave us valuable information on what to order and additional trivia regarding the place (apparently, a professional basketball team are regulars there).

As we sipped our beers, the sisig finally arrived. It was heaped generously on a sizzling plate, topped by a runny egg. No seasonings or hot sauce was given, so we just mixed the egg into the hot, hissing pork. We soon discovered that no additional seasonings were needed. The crispy little cubes were bursting with flavor, and if you must, only a dash of hot sauce should be added. It was perfect with the steamed rice and then washed down with the ice-cold beer. If you like your sisig crispy, this would be the ultimate.

Another dish that we were told to try was the Pita Pie- a pita bread topped with ground meat, onions, tomatoes, garlic sauce and cheese. Although not as crispy as I would have wanted it, it was still a pretty good dish. I mean, for a small carienderia in Quezon City, its quite an innovative effort.

Being a fan of keema (a middle-eastern dish of sauteed and seasoned ground beef), I thought we should also try Kebur's version. Their's came with a serving of pita slices and a side dish of the creamy garlic sauce. We thought it was just alright, something that would also work as a taco filling. Compared to the ones I have tried in other persian joints, this one just does not cut it.

After we were done with our meal and our beers, we quickly got up when we noticed a group of men looking for a spot for their drinking session. We wanted to have a few more drinks, but we were thinking of moving to more, shall we say, "comfortable" surroundings.

I would definitely go back to Kebur for the sisig and would recommend it to those who love the dish and would not mind a less elegant setting. Next time I would go earlier so I could get a nicer table inside.

Kebur

20th Ave.

Project 4, Quezon City

(If going north-bound on EDSA, make a right on B. Serrano Ave. Go past the stoplight in front of the Fort Aguinaldo gate until you reach 20th Ave. Turn left and go all the way down around 50 meters. Kebur is on the right side, beside a karaoke bar called Tsikas.)

Quick Bites: Uncle Moe's

Matt and I almost broke up because of their Chicken Shawarma.

Yes, I admit it was lame, fueled mostly by too many rounds of Irish Peckers (we came from a pub), but for some reason I was insanely jealous. Instead of spending time with me, he would much rather go all the way to Pasig in the wee hours to chomp down on the grilled Middle-eastern snack. I was furious and I thought he was being- as Jennifer Aniston famously put it- “uncool”.

The following day, sober and sheepish, I agreed to go with him to Uncle Moe’s to try their famous Chicken Shawarma. If I almost lost my fiancé because of it, it better be worth it.

The restaurant/bar’s clientele are mostly visitors of the nearby driving range, as well as the residents of the neighboring villages. Despite being in the same row as a couple of well-known pizza places, it seems to have gained quite a following on its own. The eatery has both indoor and al fresco seating, where customers (from boardshorts-wearing college boys to well-dressed, Ferrari driving professionals) can enjoy a few beers and some well-chosen Middle-eastern dishes, the most popular of which is the chopped grilled chicken wrapped in warm pita bread.

You can either order the regular Chicken Shawarma (which comes with chopped raw cabbage, onions and tomatoes) or the all-chicken version. I decided to order the regular size, while Matt expectedly went for their large one.

It was truly the best Chicken Shawarma I have ever tasted. The meat was moist, the marinade mildly pungent and flavorful. The garlic sauce was creamy and not overwhelming at all. I appreciated that the vegetables were fresh and crisp, which gave a nice contrast in texture.

I gobbled down my order in less than two minutes, taking bites off Matt’s second order, as he watched me condescendingly. I admit when the battle is lost and when it is time to accept defeat, so I allowed him some well-deserved gloating as I picked off his plate.

At least now I know we will never fight about Chicken Shawarma again.



Uncle Moe’s Shawarma Hub
City Golf Plaza
(Across Valle Verde 3)
J. Vargas Ave., Pasig City