Quick Bites: Goto Monster's Goto Special and Tokwa't Baboy

Goto Special

 For me, nothing heals and soothes like a bowl of arroz caldo. My first memory of the stuff goes all the way back to when I was a pre-schooler. One time, my dad picked me up from my grandparents’ house in Mandaluyong’s Old Wack-wack area then we made the short drive to the old Good-ah in Greenhills. I remember walking across the small bridge that allows pedestrians access into the restaurant, which, to my 5-year-old imagination, was quite magical. Then my dad and I sat on the counter and he ordered—chicken arroz caldo for me, goto and tokwa’t baboy for himself. I must have loved it, because since then I would ask our yaya to prepare chicken arroz caldo every time I felt sick or when I needed some good coddling.

To this day, I still pine for my yaya’s classic chicken arroz caldo when I’m under the weather (or just feeling blue). Although, recently, I was just as comforted by Goto Monster’s one-of-a-kind Goto Special. The porridge itself was rich, thick, and flavorful. You pick up the essence of a robust, aromatic broth used in cooking the short-grain rice and malagkit—an heirloom recipe from owner Jean Hill’s grandmother.

Jean added her own twist with the toppings and you can be assured that each ingredient was deliberate. Of course, there was tripe—because any self-respecting goto has got to have it. Goto Monster’s was tender and didn’t have the gamey, barnyard taste from sub-standard preparations. Instead of the usual hard-boiled egg, Jean decided it made more sense to use half a salted duck egg. “Plain chicken egg is just as pretty,” she imparts. “But, you don’t really get much flavor from it.” She then adds another dimension with some shredded tinapa, and rounds it all up with the traditional garlic crisps and green onions. What you get is a blitzkrieg of flavors, elevating the homely porridge into something that would induce cravings from any time of the day.

Tokwa't Baboy

 With all of that already going on in the goto, you will probably think that an order of Tokwa’t Baboy is excessive. Perhaps, but you will be missing out on something pretty darn good if you cast it aside. The fried tofu is crisped up and sliced, and then tossed in a bowl of cubed pork and fresh onions. But, instead of the usual cartilage or kasim, you get juicy bits of bagnet—that fabled Ilocano crispy pork dish marinated in sinamak and spices. With the flavorful meat, the sauce does not have to work overtime, though it is a study in sweet/sour balance in itself. No matter how filling the goto is, I will always have space in my stomach for this.

People always wax poetic over their favorite comfort food, and I am obviously no different. Goto Monster offers a jazzed-up alternative to the classic Filipino dish but still gives you that feeling of coming home. Its not trying to be fancy—it’s the same roadside preparation served amidst down-to-earth surroundings. But it is better, and it makes you want more.  



Goto Monster 
P. Ocampo corner Dungon Sts. 
San Antonio Village, Makati City 
E-mail address: gotomonster@yahoo.com

Quick Bites: Chinky's Batchoy

My notes on my Bacolod food trip have been long delayed. But now that my cravings for delicious Negrense dishes keep pawing at me like a restless puppy, I suddenly have the sense of urgency to write about it. It’s like therapy I suppose. Whether it will help me get over these yearnings or actually worsen them, we’ll find out soon enough.

 The object of my desire as of late is Batchoy (originally from La Paz, Ilo-ilo)- that steaming bowl of noodles in chicken broth, topped with pork organs, cracklings, scallions and- for the “special” version- a raw egg. The aroma and dense richness of the broth is a full-on attack on the senses, making this one of my favorite soup dishes of all time. Therefore, when I went on my first trip to Bacolod a month ago with Matt and our host Marky V., I knew I just had to try their batchoy, thinking that its proximity to La Paz definitely gives their versions an edge over the Manila variety.

 Yes, I did try 21’s batchoy. Unfortunately, no, I did not particularly like it. It could have been an off day for them, wherein their kitchen churned out a product that was both lacking in taste and presentation. But, instead of wallowing in disappointment, I just shrugged my shoulders and trudged on to the next exciting meal.

 Fast forward to the day of our departure, wherein we found ourselves in a fast food joint called Chinky’s. My husband- the little pervert that he sometimes is- thought it would be a clever play on words to say that he has “eaten at Chinky’s”. Since we had time to spare before lunch, Marky and I decided to indulge his juvenile request and stopped at the fast food joint at the ground floor of a low-rise building. The menu board offered little variety, so we zeroed in on my favorite bowl of noodles.

 When our food came, we were pleasantly surprised by the presentation- firm noodles soaked in glistening hot soup, topped with big chunks of chicharon and a fresh-looking egg with a beautiful, bright-orange yolk. The flavors were spot-on, just how I imagine good batchoy would be. We polish off our bowls in no time, happy, yet stunned by our discovery.

 Don’t be fooled by the fast food set-up and odd menu- Chinky’s has really good batchoy.



Chinky’s 
Po Hang Bldg. 
Gonzaga cor. Gatuslao Sts. 
Bacolod City 
Tel. no. (034) 7080620

Doing the Ilonggo Chicken Dance

I don’t know how it all started or where it came from. But the craving just suddenly hit me. And it hit me hard.

For a week I was going crazy over everything Ilonggo- La Paz batchoy, Casa Carmela’s pitaw (bottled snipe cooked adobo-style), and chicken inasal. Good friend and fellow foodie Cookie Goddess picked up on my obsession and said that we had to try this inasal place in Quezon City. I am known to travel long distances for food, so lunch in the not-too-far north was not such a bad idea.

One stormy day, I carpool with Cookie Goddess and Mrs. G-Ro to Bacolod Chicken Parilla. Parilla is what they call grilled meats in Argentina. Every part of the cow (which is king in Argentina) is used, so do not be surprised when you see intestines, tongue and even penis (!) in the open charcoal pit. But Bacolod Chicken Parilla is obviously about the Philippine’s poultry of choice, with statistics showing that Pinoy’s consume 500,000 tons of chicken a year. The Ilonggos, I have discovered, can cook it like the best of them, and that is why I felt the need to brave flood waters to have a taste of what seems to be the Scout area’s best kept secret.



We spot a table in the air-conditioned area and promptly place our orders. I admire the sauce bottles filled with vinegar, soy sauce and chicken oil, and I know that I’m in for a multi-sensory treat.



As soon as the garlic rice was placed on the table, our chatter suddenly stops, knowing that we are only moments away from inasal heaven.



We ordered a plate of liempo, simply because we love pig and would want to see how Parilla does theirs. It was a bit anti-climactic, I must admit, knowing that we have all had better grilled pork belly. So again, we wait impatiently for what we came here for. (Actually, we didn’t wait long- maybe all of 10 minutes. But we were hungry beasts, so it felt like forever.)



Finally, the plate piled high with grilled paa (chicken leg quarters) arrived. Beautifully charred in the edges by hot charcoals, the flesh is juicy and a healthy orange from the achuete oil. We all dig in, soaking the inasal and rice with chicken oil. I take a bite of the chicken, without dipping sauce first, appreciating the perfectly-balanced marinade that flavored the meat- the aromatic garlic, a little zing from the ginger, and a slight tanginess at the end from the vinegar. All the strong flavors were blending seamlessly together, but not in an overpowering way that the grilled chicken gets lost in it.



As we devoured the paa, the plate of random chicken parts we ordered was placed down on the table- atay (liver), baticolon (gizzard) and isol (butt). My family knows how much I love chicken butt, and more often than not it is immediately offered to me when we share a whole roast chicken. Parilla’s has a glistening, crisp skin, a fitting case for the juicy, fatty inside. If you have not tried chicken butt, it comes pretty close to beef bone marrow in terms of richness. That’s all you need to know. The baticolon was just alright for me- it had the texture of a silicon swimming cap, something that I don’t normally chew on. People who are into it love it, though, and I bet they will like Parilla’s. The liver, too, is something I enjoyed- simply because I love liver.

I brought home some paa and Kansi (Ilonggo-style bulalo) for Matt, and he loved the food as much as we did. He admits, though, that if I did not tell him I got it from Parilla, he initially thought the chicken came from JT’s Manukan (which we have had on several occasions, and we just had delivered a few days prior). In my non-expert opinion, I do think that Parilla (along with JT’s) is one of the best chicken inasal I have tried in Manila.

Great. This craving thing has just become a vicious cycle.



Bacolod Chicken Parilla
Sct. Gandia cor. Sct. Reyes Sts.
Quezon City
Tel. no. (632) 371 8522

Moo, Pare...

The day after our Halloween party at the bar was like a scene out of a 1980’s Bill Murray movie. Matt and I are lying completely static in bed, half-empty glasses of water on both night tables, the floor strewn with our outfits from the night before- my dark angel costume and his all-black attire- which still reek of cigarettes and spilt beer. We got home at 6 AM after a drunken food spree at the 24-hour Yellow Cab Pizza joint (Which is pure evil, I tell you) in Ayala Ave., the latest we have come home in a very long time. From what I have described, I believe you can make a fair assessment as to our physical condition when we awoke after a few hours. Yes. Not good at all.

With our heads throbbing and our bodies completely drained of energy, we have one forgettable meal in the afternoon, and then proceed to drift in and out of consciousness the rest of the day. When I finally came to, it was dark once again. Still weak, but with my stomach rumbling in protest, I force myself into the shower to finally awaken my senses. I knew I needed a meal that will revitalize my weakened body, something piping hot, hearty and succulent- a dish that will not only fortify my buckling knees but also bring me back from my half-comatose state.

It was time for some Bulalo.

Freshly-showered and finally showing some signs of life, Matt and I drive to nearby R & J Bulalohan, Tapsihan,atbp. where the fork-tender beef shank in its flavorful broth is the star. We were lucky to find parking out front and spotted a four-seater near the kitchen door which we immediately grabbed. The quaint neighborhood eatery was filled with families and barkadas enjoying the long weekend.



After ordering, we amuse ourselves by reading the posters of autographs left by R & J’s famous guests. The little girl with the group in the next table was being coaxed to dance by her adoring parents, and it reminded me of those days when it was still acceptable for me to dance at the dinner table. Now, I am usually given coffee even when I didn’t ask for it. Go figure.



We ordered three dishes to share, which is more than enough but we figured we can always take the leftovers home. Our bowl of piping-hot Bulalo Special came first, accompanied by an order of plain rice. We ladle some of the flavorful broth into our bowls and savor the calming sensation it brought to our empty stomachs. The meat was a delightful combination of marshmallow-soft beef and gelatinous tendon which is enhanced by my chosen condiment of soy sauce, calamansi and red chili. Our shank had no marrow in it and we were quick to point it out to one of their friendly and attentive servers, and she immediately gave us a piece of bone filled with butter-yellow marrow. Another feature of this dish worth mentioning is the cabbage- barely cooked through, it is placed on top of the soup just before serving so it is lightly blanched.



The two other dishes were served together, which was perfect, since I did not want to lose my momentum. The Sisig Laman-loob ng Baka (or chopped beef innards cooked sisig-style) is a new favorite of mine. Flavored with onions, chili and garlic, this tasty mélange of chopped beef meat, liver and intestines is given another flavor dimension with the addition of a little bit of beef blood. Yes, it does sound a bit hard-core, but it really is not. The flavors are actually very familiar, not off-putting at all. After tasting this, I knew we needed another cup of rice.






Matt devoured the Crispy Tawilis (deep-fried freshwater sardine from Taal Lake in Batangas) which, as every bulalo purist knows, is a popular sidekick of bulalo. It reminded him of the Crispy Galunggong (deep-fried mackerel scad) we would always eat in copious amounts at the beach. Paired with its condiment of sliced tomatoes, fish sauce and red chili, the tawilis tasted fresh and was amazingly crisp.



Everyone has their favorite bulalo joint all over the metro- and in the neighboring towns and cities as well- but R & J is my top choice. Aside from being accessible (to me, at least), the bulalo is always perfectly cooked (soft meat and tendon, tasty broth, vegetables still crisp) and, so far, the other dishes that I have tried are just as good. I noticed two ladies sharing something battered and deep-fried with something that resembled Yang Chow fried rice and it looked promising as well. It seems to be an ideal place for a quick meal at any time of the day (24/7!), and you can be sure that the food is served hot, quick and delicious.

So, did I really feel strong and revitalized after having that delicious bulalo? Not really. It would have been a good story though.



R & J Bulalohan, Tapsihan, atbp.
Bonifacio Ave.
Manadluyong City
(From Mandaluyong Circle, make a right at Petron. R & J is right beside the gasoline station.)
Tel. no. (02) 5334811

Childhood Memories on a Stick

Ever since we got married last year and moved into our new place together, Matt and I have diligently explored our new “barrio” in search of new food haunts. Although our favorite restaurants in Makati and The Fort can never be replaced, we were happy to have found some good eateries that are both accessible and consistent.

During one of these “explorations”, we passed one of my old family pit stops- Three Sisters’ Restaurant. Since I was not very familiar with that area before, I always knew that it was there but did not know the exact location. Seeing the familiar façade and name brought back childhood cravings and memories that have been locked away for quite a while now.

When my not-so-little sister Queenbee and I were very young (the youngest one- Foxychef- was not even born yet), my parents would sometimes stop outside this popular establishment within a residential area in Pasig and pick us up several sticks of pork barbecue for the ride home. Rain or shine, my Dad would step out of the car, place his orders, and the grill guy would pack the steaming-hot cubes of pork on a stick into a brown paper bag, and then a plastic “sando” bag. The drill inside the car is always the same: 1) Our mom or yayas would break off the sharp end of the stick and then wrap the other end with a paper napkin, 2) My sister and I, mesmerized by the thick, deep-brown sauce and the captivating scent of grilled pork, would continuously blow at our pork barbecues until a tolerable temperature is reached, 3) finally, we get to devour the tender chunks of meat, smearing our hands, faces, clothes and the interiors of the car in the process.



I asked my Dad if this was the same restaurant, and indeed it was, standing on the same location for the past four decades. Three Sisters’ is truly a Pasig landmark, the original one opened in a different location back in 1941 as a panciteria, its pancit bihon legendary even to this day. Throughout its long history, its menu has grown to include other specialties like the popular Filipino dessert halo-halo (a parfait-like preparation containing sweetened beans, fruit preserves, ube, and the like, topped with shaved ice, milk, and sometimes ice cream), beef Caldireta and the now-famous pork barbecue.



One sleepy weekend, Cookie Goddess and I went off to indulge my reawakened childhood cravings. We arrive at the restaurant way past noon, enjoying the quiet dining room, save for a long table of serious-looking, government-types. Aside from some minor renovations, it looks like the dining room has not changed since the 70’s, with the hanging rattan lamps, retro-looking art on the wall, and the thick dark wood fixtures which impart a familiar, musty smell you find in old houses. The vibe is definitely laidback and nostalgic, a setting you would expect to see leafing through your parents’ old albums.

The menu is also classic Filipino fare- Nido Soup, Sinigang sa Miso, Kare-Kare, Lumpiang Ubod, and a selection of grilled meats and seafood. Cookie Goddess and I decide on two rice meals and share one other dish.



Naturally, I order my childhood favorite- two sticks of Pork Barbecue with Java Rice. Their classic barbecue sauce is served on the side, which I evenly poured on top of the pork. The cubes of pork seem smaller to me, although it could be that I’m just bigger now. But the same juicy, smoky flavor remains, the sauce heightening the experience with its moderate sweetness and pleasant tang. I pour a little more sauce on the flavorful rice, inducing eye-rolls and loud grunts from both Cookie Goddess and myself.



I got a few slices from Cookie Goddess’ order- Pork Belly (or liempo) with Java Rice. This was not bad, although we both admit that we have had better. The meat seems to have stayed in a strong vinegar-based marinade for too long, leaving the pork belly with an overpowering sour flavor. We still finished it, though.



We also shared a single order of the famous Pancit Bihon – thin rice noodles wok-fried with vegetables, pork and topped with crushed chicharon. The dish was still piping-hot when it arrived at the table, and at first bite, you know why it has been so popular all these years. The noodles pleasantly tasted of garlic, the vegetable still crisp despite the quick toss in the wok. The chicharon naturally takes everything over the top, adding a flavor dimension only deep-fried pork rinds can give.

As the mid-afternoon sun breaks through the windows of the restaurant, Cookie Goddess and I sit back for a minute and happily pat our content stomachs. This was one of the simpler meals that we recently had, and yet probably one of the most pleasurable. A good meal really has no specific price tag, and comes in the most surprising circumstances. That’s why I think it’s good to revisit old favorites, to rekindle old romances with dishes you have almost forgotten. Luckily, I decided to give this old flame another try, and- unlike nasty exes- Three Sisters’ pork barbecue did not disappoint.



Three Sisters’ Restaurant
United St.
Brgy. Capitolyo, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6314431

Haute Cuisine, Pampanga-Style

During a small get-together at our new pad, close friend and fellow food whore Cookie Goddess blurts out in passing that she is attending a sit-down dinner organized by Franco- from one of our favorite Manila-based food blogs, Table for Three, Please. The menu- a “take two” of Chef Sau Del Rosario’s chic interpretation of Pampanga’s delicacies, conceptualized especially for the recent visit of Chinese-American chef, Ming Tsai.

I freak out.

How could she not have told me, I asked. Cookie Goddess explains that she just took her chance and did not even expect to be given a seat, since it was for a very small group. She promised me, though, that she will ask the organizers if she can bring a friend the very next day. This was already late into the night, while we were chasing glasses of red wine with ice cream sandwiches. So, unsurprisingly, the next day it was as if that part of our conversation never happened. Or so I thought.

A few days after that, as I was having Beef Ribs Hot Pot and Hot Prawn Salad in Century Seafood Restaurant, I receive a call from Cookie Goddess. “Good news! There’s an available seat at the dinner! You can come!”, she exclaims. It takes a few minutes for it to sink in, and then I realized what she was saying. I was suddenly excited. Dinner with fellow foodies for me is like a Spiderman fan going to a comic book convention. Imagine being around a group of people, talking for hours about something that you all collectively love, trading information on new restaurants and dishes like comic nerds exchanging special editions. Magic.

So, for the first time since I got hitched, I leave my new husband at home to have dinner with strangers. Cookie Goddess and I head on over to M Café, stopping over at Bacchus to buy a bottle of wine.

As we walked into the Greenbelt resto, we were greeted by a smiling gentleman which turned out to be Franco. He then introduced us to the rest of the group which included his blooming wife who I believe to be expecting their first child. Seated next to me was this charming couple- Sanj and his bubbly wife, Cutie. I am usually shy around strangers, so the welcome drink- mojito with crushed mint and orchids- was polished off in mere seconds.

I admired the festive and innovative table setting, which included banderitas-slash-menus and an assortment of yoyos- an allusion to Ming Tsai’s popular TV show “East Meets West”, perhaps? I give myself a mental pat-on-the-back for my cleverness.





We were soon served our appetizer: Pica Pica Buru (Fermented Rice with Crispy Catfish and Sauteed Crickets). Each component is placed on a mustasa leaf, which is then rolled up and eaten. I have tried crickets at Fely J.’s before, so I know how the critters taste like. But, eaten together with the crispness of the catfish and the rich, slightly sour fermented rice, it was more than bearable. It was actually quite delicious. I found myself putting together two more rolls before I had to stop myself in order to make more room for the rest of the dishes.

The salad course soon followed: the Pacu Ampo Paru, a forest fern salad with prawns, salted egg, watermelon, young coconut and country vinaigrette. This was my least favorite of all, mainly because of how the salad made my tongue feel thick (Tagalog term: mapakla). I was hoping that the acidity from the vinegar would cut it, but it did not really help. The flavors, I understand, were meant to be simple and rustic, but it just came off as flat to me.

Whatever issues I had with the prior dish were quickly forgotten upon tasting the next one: Sisig Pambuc Babi (pork bits with chicken liver, red onions and chili). Being a fan of this popular Pampanga delicacy, I was wary that the flavors would be tampered with to be made more pleasing to Western tastes. I soon discovered that my concerns were uncalled for, as Chef Sau’s version could not be more authentic and delectable. The little bits of pork were gelatinous, the cartilage obviously made tender by hours of boiling. The contrast was provided by the topping of crisp chicharon (slivers of deep-fried pork skin), the air bubbles on the surface popping with each crunch, tasty despite the palpable absence of MSG. “Now I wish I had a bottle of beer,” Franco tells Cookie Goddess. We agree, although, fortunately, I found Cookie Goddess’ bottle of Shiraz to be a rather worthy compliment. I’m so happy that match worked out.

The next dish was the Bulanglang Asan- Chilean Seabass cooked in a guava broth. The broth is sinigang, which is soup made sour using ingredients like tamarind, kamias or, in this case, guava. I thought the soup was just the right sourness for my taste, and the fish was perfectly cooked- still moist and flaky. Underneath the fish was a ravioli stuffed with frog leg, which I thought was unnecessary. On their own, the fish and the broth were already quite successful.

The light fish course was followed by a dish that was packed with flavor and richness- the Pugu Adobu Foie Gras (stewed pigeon in vinegar and soy sauce topped with foie gras, quail egg and pickled vegetables). Again, the concentrated flavors of the sauce tasted pretty accurate to me and, if not for the foie gras, could have been just a really delicious adobo. Don’t get me wrong: The foie was a welcome addition to the dish, perfectly-seared with a thin, caramelized crust. This has got to be my favorite dish of the night.




But then again, as much as I loved the adobo dish, I cannot say I did not adore the main event- Litsung Bigak (suckling pig with green curry rice). The baby pig was traditionally cooked on a spit, the steamed rice simmered in its cavity with other herbs and spices and then scooped out for plating. The skin was thin and crisp, the flesh juicy and flavorful. Although tasty enough to be eaten alone, I just cannot say no to liver sauce. I pour a good amount on my plate and eat it with the curry rice, which was creamy and subtle. Although full, I just had to have another serving after a much-needed cigarette break. The second round was accompanied by a glass of Franco’s wine, a Sonoma Valley cabernet sauvignon that went famously well with the pig. Even alone, it was well-balanced with a nice long finish, noticing notes of camphor, dark chocolate and black cherries. Yum!





As I was finishing my lechon (everyone else was done with theirs), the dessert trio was placed in front of us to be shared. There were three slices of cakes in different flavors- Tres Leches, Brazo de Limon and Chocnut Caramel. The chocoholic in me had me going straight for the last one, which was nicely moist and fudgy with a delicious layer of the popular local “chocolate” bar in the middle. Now I know why people rave about the cakes at M Café. All three were delectable and faultless.


As the wine and conversation continued to flow, chatter became more excited and laughter, more uncontrollable. Stories about food and travel were endless and I almost had a feeling that the night was cut short. I really enjoyed our conversations with Franco, Sanj and Cutie, and would have loved to tune in to the light banter on the other end of the table as well. “Next time, I’ll request for a round table so it’s easier to chat”, Franco observes. After numbers were exchanged and promises of future dinners were made, we all said our good nights and headed home. Honestly, I really hope I get invited again to the next one. (Wink, wink.)

Although there were some hits and misses, the dinner was a good representation of what Filipino food should be like. People often wonder why our dishes are not as popular as other Southeast Asian cuisine, such as Thai and Vietnamese, and of course it’s not because it’s not good. Aside from marketing, I think we have to make a little extra effort in making our food “prettier”. To the uninitiated, our Kare-kare probably looks like ox tail and vegetables swimming in muck. More often than not, we still have that mentality that Filipino food is all about home-cooking, and frankly, there’s nothing wrong with that. But, if we want to join the big leagues, we have to, shall I say, “sex it up” a bit.

And that’s what Chef Sau attempted to do with relative success- the flavors were undeniably local, but presented in a way that is universally palatable. I have seen this being done in some restaurants already, and I fully support it as long as the flavors are authentic and not “fusion” (which is on its way out, anyway). Before you know it, sisig will be as popular as other formerly exotic food such as sushi and pho.

Hey, a girl can dream…

M Café
G/F Ayala Museum
Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center
Makati City

Tel no (632) 7573000

Big Fish in a Small Pond

Vacations in Quezon province has always been some sort of food fest. Passing through the towns on our way to and coming from Mauban entailed countless pitstops picking-up local delicacies and pasalubong. What would be meals at our lola’s house without crisp-fried longganisang Lucban and tortilyang Macao? At the beach house in Cagbalete Island, no afternoon is complete without steaming-hot pancit habhab and my dad’s favorite fried saba. To bring home, nothing satisfies more than a can of broas (lady fingers) from the old Pavinos store in Lucban, a regular request from a dear uncle where it always has a special spot beside his Planter’s peanuts and Poppycock caramel popcorn.

With Quezon quickly becoming a food destination, restaurants offering local dishes are popping-up all over the province. Although there have always been those quaint hole-in-the-walls serving grilled fish and jardinera or the ubiquitous habhab panciterias, recent years have seen the emergence of the ihaw-ihaw (grill) destination restaurants.

Banking on fresh ingredients and serene backdrops, Kamayan sa Palaisdaan is the Parthenon of these native restaurants and grills in Quezon province. Covering close to a hectare of land in the outskirts of Tayabas township, Palaisdaan (as we commonly call it) is best known for its fresh Tilapia raised in the sprawling pond within the restaurant’s property. Floating atop this pond are bamboo huts with tables that seat ten to twelve adults comfortably. Larger groups can be accommodated in their main hall or in various “tree houses” or pavilions spread out all over the restaurant. This establishment has already grown to include a bar, a hotel and a mini-zoo of sorts.




Having made several visits to Palaisdaan over the years (even to its earlier incarnation across the road), my family already has our favorite dishes that we cannot help but order again and again. To start, a pleasant discovery was the sisig, which is mixed tableside on a sizzling plate. The smell is truly captivating, with the pungent aromas of onion, soy sauce, butter and seared pork flesh filling the air. The chopped pieces of pork face are both crispy and gelatinous, with a generous addition of what seems to be shredded pieces of pork meat.

Of course, no meal is complete here without Tilapia. Although grilled fish is always good, we have always favored ours deep-fried. With a dipping sauce of vinegar, soy sauce and red chili, the fried tilapia in Palaisdaan is crisp on the outside while hot and flaky on the inside.

Another favorite is the Grilled Porkchop. Grilled to moist and meaty perfection, dipped in the same sauce as the tilapia, it is pure heaven with steaming white rice.

For the kids and anti-pork Matt, we always order the fried chicken. The pieces of chicken are dipped in batter and deep-fried. It’s actually quite good.

To accompany these dishes, we always order the Ensaladang Mangga and Laing (gabi leaves cooked in coconut milk). There was a time when the laing was very limited and we would always try to come early so we could order it. But now it seems they have a steady supply.

Now, let us talk about service. Let me begin by saying that on normal days the service is quite good. The nature of grilling food makes preparation time a bit longer than usual, so a thirty minute wait has come to be expected. During long weekends and holidays, though, it’s a completely different story. When they are at their maximum capacity, waiting time for your food could reach up to one hour and a half. Their waiters, which are normally pleasant and accommodating, become cranky and unfriendly. If you cannot enjoy your meals under these circumstances, I suggest you avoid coming here during these times.


The food in Palaisdaan is not only outstanding but is great value for money. No wonder people drive in from the city or make an inconvenient detour just to dip their fingers into their succulent tilapias and grilled meats. Despite the problem of being understaffed during peaks season, some still choose to endure their hunger pangs while they wait for their food to arrive. I, on the other hand, will probably schedule my next visit when everyone else is back slaving away on their office desks, far away from my favorite fish pond.

Kamayan sa Palaisdaan
Barangay Dapdap
Tayabas, Quezon
Tel no. +639282845369

Winner By Knockout

I don’t like it when people mess around with Filipino food.

By “messing around”, I mean the current invasion of “modern Filipino cuisine” wherein Kare-Kare is deconstructed, Laing is turned into pasta sauce and Sisig becomes a pizza topper. I like my Pinoy food cooked the way it should be, or at least the way Filipino mothers, lolas and kusineras all over the country make them. This means that Kare-kare is slow-cooked in its peanut-based sauce until the ox tail is jiggling about like Jello, gabi leaves are simmered in coconut milk and sili to make Laing, later to be served with steamed rice, while the enigmatic pork parts that go into Sisig are happily sizzling away on an iron plate.

When a craving for Pinoy food hits me, I rarely go out to eat, more so now that the classic Filipino restaurants of my childhood are just not as good as they used to be. There are a few though, such as the late Larry Cruz’s Bistro Remedios, which continue to dish out exemplary regional dishes.

One weekday lunch, my Tita P and I decided to make the quick drive from our office to the Malate restaurant. Despite it being a Lenten Friday, we were dead-set on ordering the specialty of the house (and most of Larry C.’s establishments),which is their version of Crispy Pata called Knockout Knuckles- deep-fried crispy pork knuckles topped with a fragrant garlic sauce, accompanied by the usual soy sauce with vinegar and onions.

After being ushered into the bright and cheery dining room- reminiscent of the old houses in the provinces- we quickly ordered a cheekily-named appetizer called Ipusit Mo Baby (baby squid fried to a crisp) and Adobong Balut (battered duck embryos cooked adobo-style). Those went so fast I wasn’t even able to take pictures.

Tita P and I were given a few minutes to digest after we wolfed-down the starters before the main dishes were sent in. For our viands we chose, of course, the knuckles and the Binukadkad na Crispy Plapla, which I know sounds pornographic but is really just deep-fried butterflied Tilapia.

The Knockout Knuckles were as decadent and sumptuous as I remember it- the flesh was juicy and fork-tender, topped by a layer of fat which melts in your mouth, the skin bubbling and crisp, enhanced by the softly-wafting aroma of slow-cooked garlic. Although the garlic topping is something not commonly found in most Crispy Pata recipes, this is one preparation that I have to admit is pure genius.

Our meal was accompanied by a simple siding of Ensaladang Talong (grilled eggplant, sliced tomatoes and onions with a vinegar sauce) and a generous serving of Bamboo Rice. A common practice in Southern Philippines, rice is cooked inside a stick of bamboo, in this case, with some shredded chicken and shitake mushrooms. The result is a densely-packed, flavorful rice dish which goes perfectly with, well, everything.

We gave a valiant effort at finishing the whole meal which would sufficiently feed four, but gave-up when we could no longer suck in our stomachs under our tightening shirts. After having the remains of our meal wrapped, we ordered some dessert: Claude’s Dream for me (buko pandan jelly and young coconut on buffalo milk ice cream) and Gula Melaka (tapioca served with palm sugar and coco cream) for Tita P (who looked like she had a fist-full of Xanax at this point). The desserts were just alright for me, not really worth the extra calories. I can imagine how some people would like them, though.

This Malate institution is truly the jewel of the LJC group of restaurants, proving that the classics only need minor tweaking (or none at all) to be made extraordinary. As the saying goes, “If it ain’t broke, why fix it?”

Bistro Remedios
Adriatico St.
Malate, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 5239153