Quick Bites: Goto Monster's Goto Special and Tokwa't Baboy

Goto Special

 For me, nothing heals and soothes like a bowl of arroz caldo. My first memory of the stuff goes all the way back to when I was a pre-schooler. One time, my dad picked me up from my grandparents’ house in Mandaluyong’s Old Wack-wack area then we made the short drive to the old Good-ah in Greenhills. I remember walking across the small bridge that allows pedestrians access into the restaurant, which, to my 5-year-old imagination, was quite magical. Then my dad and I sat on the counter and he ordered—chicken arroz caldo for me, goto and tokwa’t baboy for himself. I must have loved it, because since then I would ask our yaya to prepare chicken arroz caldo every time I felt sick or when I needed some good coddling.

To this day, I still pine for my yaya’s classic chicken arroz caldo when I’m under the weather (or just feeling blue). Although, recently, I was just as comforted by Goto Monster’s one-of-a-kind Goto Special. The porridge itself was rich, thick, and flavorful. You pick up the essence of a robust, aromatic broth used in cooking the short-grain rice and malagkit—an heirloom recipe from owner Jean Hill’s grandmother.

Jean added her own twist with the toppings and you can be assured that each ingredient was deliberate. Of course, there was tripe—because any self-respecting goto has got to have it. Goto Monster’s was tender and didn’t have the gamey, barnyard taste from sub-standard preparations. Instead of the usual hard-boiled egg, Jean decided it made more sense to use half a salted duck egg. “Plain chicken egg is just as pretty,” she imparts. “But, you don’t really get much flavor from it.” She then adds another dimension with some shredded tinapa, and rounds it all up with the traditional garlic crisps and green onions. What you get is a blitzkrieg of flavors, elevating the homely porridge into something that would induce cravings from any time of the day.

Tokwa't Baboy

 With all of that already going on in the goto, you will probably think that an order of Tokwa’t Baboy is excessive. Perhaps, but you will be missing out on something pretty darn good if you cast it aside. The fried tofu is crisped up and sliced, and then tossed in a bowl of cubed pork and fresh onions. But, instead of the usual cartilage or kasim, you get juicy bits of bagnet—that fabled Ilocano crispy pork dish marinated in sinamak and spices. With the flavorful meat, the sauce does not have to work overtime, though it is a study in sweet/sour balance in itself. No matter how filling the goto is, I will always have space in my stomach for this.

People always wax poetic over their favorite comfort food, and I am obviously no different. Goto Monster offers a jazzed-up alternative to the classic Filipino dish but still gives you that feeling of coming home. Its not trying to be fancy—it’s the same roadside preparation served amidst down-to-earth surroundings. But it is better, and it makes you want more.  



Goto Monster 
P. Ocampo corner Dungon Sts. 
San Antonio Village, Makati City 
E-mail address: gotomonster@yahoo.com

Let the Sunshine Through

Girls who do not eat are very foreign to me. I respect their choice—they obviously prefer to look good in skinny jeans over indulging in a cheesy, carb-y pizza, and that’s ok. Once in a while I do catch myself admiring their lithe physiques and hoping that I, too, can fit into those tiny size-2 dresses. But I made my choice, and I chose to eat well. Therefore, I will live with the results, which is the “junk in my trunk.”

But the ladies of Sunshine Kitchen are freaks of nature—they cook and eat delicious, rich comfort food without gaining an inch around their mid-sections. From the lovely chefs (co-owner Tanya and my baby sister, Sansan) to the bubbly part owners, all of the ladies involved look great in their sexy denim cut-offs. Don’t be fooled though—these hotties know their food.
 

When I eat at Sunshine Kitchen, I like to prep my stomach with one of their healthy salads. Their dressings—such as the Mediterranean Salad’s red wine vinaigrette—are light yet flavorful.

The pizzas here can definitely give those of the surrounding establishments a run for their money. The crust is thin and crisp, but with a bit of a bite. Old-school, Neapolitan-style. My favorites are the Cristal’s Choice, which is their version of the pizza Napolitana. But for something that is uniquely SK, go for the Sunshine Pizza—garlicky Cabanatuan longganisa, juicy porchetta, peppery arugula, topped with a runny egg. A spattering of yolk adds just enough richness to an already decadent dish. Not for the calorie-counting, but then again, you only live once.

Matt the chicken lover swears by their Fried Chicken. Crisp, juicy and flavorful, it has all the winning components. Their gravy is what I imagine good Southern-style cooking must be. Creamy and rich, but not overtly so.

Another bestseller is the Longganisa Paella. The dominant flavors are classic Spanish, but with familiar flavors of local sausage and eggs. Very festive and perfect for sharing.

Their lust-worthy Porchetta is served with rice pilaf and French beans. This, along with their pizzas, is what will set this establishment apart from all the trendy grub spots in the metro. The skin is chicharon-level crunchy, and the moist pork is soft and perfectly-seasoned. Everyone from husky males to Cohen-cheating waifs swear by it.

Sunshine Kitchen also makes their own ice cream, and one time I got to try their Key Lime Pie Ice Cream. And that is exactly what you taste when you have a spoonful. A cool touch would be the sweetened breadcrumbs that add texture for a well-rounded dessert. It’s an ideal place for pretty much everything—from quiet brunches, to power lunches, to boisterous family dinners. Or just come by when you want to be cheered up by some straightforward, delicious food.



Sunshine Kitchen
2/F Fort Pointe Building (near Urbn)
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Mobile no. 0929-8139775

Remember Your First Chocolate Kiss?

College gave me my first taste of the real world- meeting people outside my usual circle; encountering challenges (both in school and in life) that tested my mettle; basically, I learned that the world could both be loving and cruel.  But aside from waking up to these harsh realities of life, it was during my university days that I got to really experiment with food. 

            There are many blissful food memories of my time in the Katipunan area, and quite a number of them had something to do with The Chocolate Kiss Café at the Bahay ng Alumni in UP Diliman.  I recall how excited I was to be able to enjoy generous portions of my favorite pastas, followed by huge slices of beautiful cakes.  To my young, unexposed palate, it was my haven of good food, away from the poorly ventilated grills and fast food joints that college runts like me used to frequent. 

            One weekend, Matt and I were in the QC area and I spotted the branch of Chocolate Kiss along Roces Avenue.  Excited, I decided to grab a quick snack just to see what has become of this old favorite. 

            I loved their Fettuccine Carbonara, but having since outgrown pastas with creamy white sauces, I ordered their Aligue and Prawn Pasta.  The linguine was nicely cooked (al dente), and the aligue (crab fat), although fundamentally rich, was not oily.  There were notably more than a handful of prawns in my bowl.  Most aligue pastas tend to be heavy on the garlic, but CK’s version seemed to have practiced restraint.  I think I like it more this way. 

Matt opted for the Salisbury Steak with Mashed Potato- his idea of comfort food.  I believe he enjoyed it, particularly the thickened, home-style gravy.

             

            For dessert, I had to have a slice of a classic- Devil’s Food Cake.  Stark white peaks of marshmallow-like frosting enveloped a rich, fudge-y chocolate cake- there’s a reason why it made an impact back then and was burned into my memory.  It’s still good.

            Matt also had to have his cheese fix- this time in the form of a Blueberry Cheesecake.  The blueberry topping was obviously canned, but the cake itself was good enough- thick and dense, but not cloying. 

            The service was a tad “too relaxed” for my taste- boisterous banter (and singing!) among the staff is a no-no in my book.  Save it for your yosi break, guys.  Still, it was a fun afternoon of reminiscing, especially having discovered that this old favorite has maintained the pleasantly homey quality of their food.



The Chocolate Kiss Cafe
G/F Korben Place
Roces Ave. cor, Sct. Tobias St., Q.C
Tel. no. (632) 412 7876 

Food Trip USA: New York/ New Jersey

Guilty- I have been absent from blogging for quite some time now.  No excuses.  But, looky here!  A new entry!

I have just returned from a long vacation in the US and, needless to say, Matt and I took full advantage of what the Bastion of Capitalism has to offer.  From organic (and not-so-organic) supermarkets to street food to comfort food, we swept through the country with guts (and pant flaps) wide open. 

Most of our trip was spent in the East Coast, where some of my family is based.   New York and New Jersey is probably the most culturally diverse states in the US and, naturally, so is the food.

Here are a few of our favorite stops.

Whole Foods Market

A trip to the US is not complete without several visits to this organic super store.  The uninitiated usually get visuals of hippies in hemp tunics selling quinoa cupcakes, but that's not what this place is about. 

The produce section is an explosion of color- native and imported fruits, the best green vegetables and herbs from local farmers, all naturally-grown and only the highest grade there is.  The seafood, meat and poultry section boast of the same top-quality stuff.  I heard somebody say recently that there is no such thing as organic beef.  Well, there is- I saw it with my own two eyes:  Organic, grain-fed, dry-aged, prime-grade porterhouse.  I wish I took a picture. 

                      

Matt and I have two favorite sections: the smoked fish and cheese sections.  Vacuum-sealed to maintain optimal freshness, they carry smoked and cured salmon from anywhere in between Alaska and Norway.  They also carry some signature brands, such as Charlie Trotter’s cured salmon.  I was particularly fond of the citrus-y variety.

The cheese section just blew our minds.  I’m pretty sure it’s not the widest of selections, but it was definitely more than what I am used too.  It pretty much covers all the major cheese-producing countries, as well as a number of local artisanal products from upstate.  For this alone Matt and I were willing to make the ten-minute drive to the supermarket every day.

We frequented the branch along River Road, Edgewater, NJ, but there are hundreds all over the US.

http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Sarita’s Macaroni and Cheese (S’mac)

Speaking of cheese- a whole restaurant dedicated to mac and cheese is, in my humble opinion, beyond brilliant.  It could only be a product of divine intervention.  The East Village eatery s'mac offers a sizeable variety of cheese combinations and add-ons that would please every palate.  So far I have only tried two kinds, and of the two, there was one that I fell head-over-heels for- The Alpine.  Perfectly-cooked macaroni coated in luxe Swiss Gruyere cheese, mixed with salty cubes of slab bacon- how could I not? 

And if this was not self-indulgent enough, you can order their mac n cheese “to go” and ready to be reheated any time you are in need of a good coddling. 

345 East 12^thSt. between 1^st & 2^nd Aves., NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 358 7912

http://www.smacnyc.com

Zum Schneider

Another East Village haunt that we loved was this small yet popular German biergarten.  We arrived early and scored a good table, but show up after six and for sure you will have to stand by the bar.  The beer selection is obviously German, with quite a few on tap. The food is, expectedly, all things meaty and cheesy- we enjoyed theboiled veal bratwurst with pretzel, as well as the baked camembert.  It’s a great place to escape the cold, have a beer, and catch up with friends. 

This is a favorite spot for football fans during the Euroand World Cups, so if you find yourself in the area, do check it out.  It should be fun, if you don’t mind being shoulder-to shoulder with rowdy European types. 

107 Ave. Cat East 7^th St. NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 5981098

http://www.zumschneider.com

Landmarc

If I ever become a gazillionaire and could choose any chef in the world to cook for me at home, every single day, it would be Marc Murphy.  His cooking style and food philosophy is akin to mine- French and Italian dishes cooked bistro-style are so up my alley.  Don’t let the trendy surroundings of both his Tribeca and AOL Time-Warner restos fool you- his food is good.

I was able to enjoy his lunch menu a couple of times- once alone, and the second time with companions. It was quite an experience for me to sit at their bar and order myself a meal- I felt so grown-up and chic. 

A deceivingly light yet cholesterol-laden starter is theFrisee aux Lardons- delicate greens tossed in red wine vinaigrette, generously-topped with thick cubes of bacon and poached egg. With that I had a small portion of their Pasta of the day- Linguine con vongole.   

Meat lovers should try their steaks, simply-seasoned and lovingly grilled right behind the bar.  This includes a side salad and fresh-cut fries- and at $30 for the hanger steak-probably one of the best deals in Manhattan. 

The icing on top of the proverbial cake must be the winelist- over 300 bottles to choose from in their thick, leather-bound inventory.  There are no wines by the glass, only half bottles: you can definitely find one you'll like from the 100 varieties they have on stock. 

3/F TimeWarner Center

10 ColumbusCircle, NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 823 6123

http://landmarc-restaurant.com

Blue Ribbon Bakery Kitchen

                                     

This bakery/restaurant is every bit modern-American-cool- from the distressed wooden furniture to the low lighting to the young urbanite staff.  When I went to the bathroom, I discovered the basement bakery where they churn out their delicious breads, as well as a small cellar/dining area.

Aside from the breads, people come here for one other thing-Fried Chicken.  Mildly-spiced and deep-fried until crisp, with a side of mashed potatoes and collared greens- it is southern cooking at its finest. 

Not in the mood for fried chicken?  I spied an interesting cheese list (to go with their bread, of course) as well as a New York strip with shallot butter and fries.  For drinks, go down the street and check out the neighborhood watering holes- $16 for a shot of DonJulio is a buzz kill.    

35 DowningSt. NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 337 0404

http://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

Your Neighborhood Italian Deli

Judging by the success of both Italian fine dining restaurants and fast food chains alike, millions of Filipinos have readily opened their arms to Italian cuisine over the years. Pasty, sweet spaghetti has been replaced with al dente pasta in all its incarnations, flavored with traditional sauces made in different styles.  Risotto has become a common side dish even in some non-Italian menus, and it is not surprising to see thinly-sliced prosciutto being served with cocktails at dinner parties.

                

So when the craving for Italian food strikes, it’s good to have a cozy nook in the city where you can tuck in for your pizza or pasta fix.  Esprimere is just that kind of place- a small neighborhood joint that serves Italian comfort food that is familiar to its Filipino clientele, without compromising authenticity and quality.  Their menu is limited to the classics- such as pizza and pasta- with some specials for both lunch and dinner.  A glass case at the counter displays a modest selection of deli meats and cheeses- all reasonably-priced and perfect with any of their Italian wines on display. 

                

They have improved on the interiors since their soft opening (a cousin is a friend of the owner)- the warm lighting complimenting the tasteful light wood of the walls and furniture, evoking the feel of a modern and casual European eatery.   They also have beautifully framed photos of Italian scenes, filling the wall next to their signature mural of the Tower of Pisa.  The mood is welcoming and unpretentious, and it encourages you to hang out and enjoy a long meal if you please- which is the Italian way.

                

The vibe seems to have worked its magic on me as I ordered 100 grams of their Salami Calabrese from the deli, with a glass of Italian red wine.  

                

I thoroughly enjoyed the lasagna on my first visit, so when I took Matt with me the next time around we just had to have it.  Esprimere’s lasagna works because it is simple, classic and done right.  The béchamel is smooth and rich, the meat sauce mildly-flavored with oregano and other traditional herbs.  And, most importantly, they topped it with good cheese which made a world of difference.  If I had one issue, it was that the portion left me wanting.  Perhaps they could offer their lasagna in two sizes- their regular one and a larger one for appetites like mine and Matt’s.  Really, I wouldn’t mind paying extra.

                

Their pizzas are also done in the simple and classic style- no outlandish toppings here.  We opted for the four-cheese version, and it was a delight with its balanced flavors and thin, crisp crust.  Since I still had several slices of salami all to myself, I topped a couple of pizza slices with the slightly-piquant meat. 

               

Esprimere is the perfect pit stop for those days when you want some good Italian comfort food.  The food is reasonably-priced, and so is the wine- great for those days when I’m channeling Sophia Loren but want to stay in my flip-flops.

Esprimere Italian Deli

G/F Pearl Plaza

Pearl Drive, Ortigas Center

Pasig City

Tel. no. (632) 544 5963

Rub Me the Right Way

Any good businessman knows that in order to succeed, it is important to figure out what you love to do, and strive to be the best at it. In the restaurant business where it is easy for initially brilliant ideas to drown in the depths of mediocrity, this principle could not ring more true. I noticed how young restauranteurs get distracted by their need to be “different” or “avant garde”. “Think outside the box”, the marketing gurus say. But sometimes all it really takes is something familiar and homey, but expertly prepared that a bite of it makes your soul sing.

My love for baby back ribs- that smoked, juicy, fall-off-the-bone tender barbecue dish- has taken me one evening to Rub Ribs & BBQ at its original spot near Tomas Morato Ave. in Quezon City. Ever since that first bite, I have returned at least three more times until they finally opened a branch in Pasig, which is much more convenient for me. I love Rub, and I will tell you why.



I admire a good solid concept. It shows that the owners know what their strengths are and are willing to commit to it. The partners are young LSGH alumni, and one of them- Martin Kabigting- have actually gone on to major in HRIM at the DLSU-College of St. Benilde. His experience from working at hotel restaurants has given him the confidence and the know-how to open his own joint with friend Don Tayag of the famous Kapampangan foodie clan (think Trellis). Their vision is simple- to serve “stripped-down” comfort food in a casual setting. And this they are doing with panache.



The ambience of the Capitolyo, Pasig branch is clean and brightly-lit. Their lines are modern, but given a cozy mom-and-pop feel with chalkboards, a glass chiller, and kitchen napkins on the tables. It is quaint without being dingy, up-to-date without being clique-ish.





There is no doubt in the world that the star of the Rub Show is their barbecue ribs. Served for one, two or four persons, they are consistently moist, full of flavor, and unbelievable tender- all of the characteristics you would want to find in your ribs. Their baby back ribs are first seasoned with their dry rub, smoked (the way any self-respecting rib should be), and then cooked sparingly on the grill, basted with their signature barbecue sauce. The sauce is tangy and has deep aromas of woodsy herbs and spices, with a perfect balance of smoky and sweet. The results speak for themselves, which is why they are currently my favorite baby back ribs in Metro Manila. The side dishes are equally tasty- their sprice (spiced fried rice), mashed potatoes, and spinach and mushrooms are the more popular choices.



The appetizers are simple- something I imagine the boys would prepare during a drinking session after a pick-up game. Being a self-confessed onion rings maniac, I could not get enough of Rub’s version. Crisp, oily and salty- it’s what good onion rings should be. Dipped in their aioli sauce, it just makes sense to me.


A curious addition to their starters is the Pizzadilla- half pizza, half quesadilla. Two flour tortillas are stuffed with chicken or pepperoni, smothered with a cheesy cream of mushroom and peppers, and then baked with melted cheese on top. An abomination? Perhaps. But once you get past your predispositions about what a quesadilla (or a pizza, for that matter) should be, you just might like it for the freak that it is. We did- we smothered that sucker with Tabasco and wished they served beer. (Please serve beer. Please please please...)



Matt enjoyed the BBQ Beef Fingers, which is a great alternative for beef lovers (or for those who do not eat pork, like Matt). Smothered in the same BBQ sauce, the beef is deboned and extra-soft, the tendons gelatinous. It would have been better if they were actual fingers and not cubes, so that they can be picked up and gnawed on like a real rib.


We spied a pretty interesting dessert menu which included Coffee Crème Brulee and Fried Oreos, but we were set on having frozen yogurt after so those will have to wait another time.

And there will be another time. And another…


Rub Ribs & BBQ
88 East Capitol Drive
Capitolyo, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6246850

64 Sct. Rallos St.
Quezon City
Tel. no. (632) 6226352

This Lil Piggy Had Cake

It took a while for Red Velvet cake to make it to our shores, but I'm really just glad it did. This American classic is as decadent as it is visually spectacular- the deep, red-brown hue of chocolate-flavored cake, set against the stark contrast of white cream cheese or buttercream frosting is a standout with its classic features. The flavors are truly moan-inducing, and I have yet to meet a person who has not fallen for it's voluptuous charms.

Recently, Red Velvet cake (and it's equally beguiling cupcake incarnation) has developed a pretty impressive cult following locally. I myself have quite the sweet tooth (albeit a controlled one, thanks to diabetes in my genes), and once in a while the seductive mental image of moist, garnet-hued cake smothered in thick cream cheese icing proves to be far too irresistible.

Luckily, through the wonders of Facebook, I discover that my friend Chrissie Regaza- a highly-accomplished baker and fellow lush- of The Rolling Pig bakes, among other delectable goodies, a mean Red Velvet cake. Therefore, with my Dad's birthday coming up, I decide to order him a cake and, yes, eat it, too.

I must admit- and I say this without bias- that The Rolling Pig's Red Velvet cake is as good as they can possibly get- definitely moist, but not dense, the cake is light-footed until you get to the icing, which was sweet and decadent and all forms of wonderful. What is freakishly good about this cake is that it gets even better after a couple of days in the fridge, which is usually where cakes go to die. How many times have I kept a slice of cake in the fridge's cold crevices, only to resurface as a dry, ragged version of it's old self? No, not this one. TRP's Red Velvet stayed moist, and the flavors of it's frosting and filling just became more intense.

I was already a fan, but now, I'm a disciple.



The Rolling Pig
Tel. No. (632) 8209350

Brunch-ing Manila (in Bed): Making Croque Madame

Yesterday, my parents showed up with a big loaf of ciabatta for me and Matt. They know about Matt's love affair with good bread (one of the two things he has in common with my mom- the other thing is OCD), so it was sweet of them to swing by the deli at their apartment building before picking me up for lunch. Since I have been off booze for the past few days (and will be for a few more days to come) because I'm on meds for a nasty cough, making brunch on a weekend morning was not such a laughable possibility. So, I pick-up a few more deli items and realize that not only can I make a mean sandwich with these goodies, but I can actually make Croque Madame.

Below is a recipe (loosely based on a recipe I got from Epicurious.com) of this decadent brunch dish or entree that, quite honestly, is more "low-maintenance" than it's name leads you to believe.

Croque Madame (good for 2)

2 thick slices of hearty bread (in this case, ciabatta)
Butter
Olive oil
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup low-fat milk
2 slices Turkey ham ( for Matt the Pork Hater)
2 slices Gruyere cheese
2 eggs
Nutmeg
Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper

Procedure:
-Make some bechamel sauce. In a small sauce pan, cook the flour in two knobs of butter over low heat for two minutes. Slowly stir in the milk until fully incorporated, season with a couple pinches of nutmeg, and cook until thick. Remove from heat and set aside.
- slice 2 chunky pieces of ciabatta, approximately 3"x3". Slice the top part off so you're left with a relatively flat surface and place on a baking pan. Smear a thin layer of dijon mustard on both slices of bread then top with turkey ham. Smooth some bechamel on top of the ham, and then a slice of gruyere. Put the oven on "broil" and set it on "high". Broil the croques for 2 minutes or until cheese starts boiling, switch off oven and then move the baking pan to the bottom to keep them warm.
-On a frying pan, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and a teaspoon of butter. Cook eggs until yolks are still runny and season with salt and pepper. Remove croques from baking sheet and place fried eggs on top of each croque.
- Serve immediately