Dimsum- All Day, Everyday

My cravings are usually broadcasted all over the internet. I don’t really know why I do that. Seeking moral support from enablers? Or is it an attempt at taking the world down with me on my undertaking to make my giant ass even bigger? I don’t know. But I do know how I feel all warm and fuzzy inside when like-minded individuals reach out through cyber-space with the ubiquitous “yum!” or with a useful dining suggestion.



Recently, I got the latter from Mao- a friend from my Goethe Institut days, when I was desperately trying to learn German (and failed)- who suggested I check out Suzhou after I posted a photo of xiao long bao (a delicious parcel in the form of a Chinese dumpling, its thin wrapper filled with flavorful broth) on Facebook. I do remember eating at the branch in Mandaluyong, but with my working arrangements now, the original Malate branch was a more appealing option. Besides, 92% of the time, the original branch of a restaurant served far more superior food than the newer ones. (Note: That is just a figure I came up with on my own. I like giving out fake percentages because it makes me feel smart and important.)

One weekday lunch, Matt, Mark V. and I went to check out Suzhou. Hungry (as our threesome usually is), we ordered a plethora of dimsum, soup, a beef dish and rice. Most of the dumplings were just so-so, but there were some standout dishes we will be happy to come back for.



Like the Spicy Sour Soup (or hot and sour, as it is commonly known). There was a good, clean balance of tangy, savory and spice, plus good texture with the mushrooms and tofu.



The server recommended the Steamed Beef with Chili Garlic, and honestly I did not know what to expect. Good thing we ordered it, though, because it was tender and expertly-seasoned. The marbling of tendon is gelatinous and adds richness to what could have easily been a very dry dish if it wasn’t done right.



I have had better Xiao Long Bao (locally, it’s still Lugang Cafe’s version for me), but Suzhou’s was quite good. The wrapper was thicker than what I would have preferred, and the broth a tad sweet, but it was warm and flavorful and satisfying.



I saw a photo of the Mustard Vegetable Fried Rice on a blog (sorry, I forget which one) and I knew I just had to try it. Again, really good idea- the rice was packed with flavor from the aromatic vegatables, and the small pieces of pork did not hurt, either. I loved it- one of the better fried rice dishes I have had in that price range.



Mao told me that maybe I should Google the place first before I go, but it really was not so bad. It seems to be a mom-and-pop operation, with the cook (and probably owner) casually lounging around and sipping tea when we walked in, and then quickly tucked into the kitchen to prepare our orders, then sinking into his chair once again to continue animatedly chatting with his mother (I assume). Far from the sparkly Chinese restos most go to for family celebrations, but a good place for a quick meal at a very reasonable price. We over-ordered and ended up paying P1300 for the three of us- not bad at all.


Suzhou Dimsum
A.Mabini St.
Malate, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 302 4347

Yummy Yummy La Mian

After a night of partying at Lan Kwai Fong, I woke up in our dark hotel room with the expected dry mouth and throbbing headache. Matt, who seems to have been hit harder by the vodka truck than I was, is lying motionless next to me, his body emitting what seems to be the harsh smell of gasoline. I knew it was almost noon and so we have surely missed our complimentary breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant.

So, as I await signs of life from my husband, I just lay there and fantasized about brunch. The moment I awoke, I was already craving for noodle soup and dimsum, and I knew exactly where to go.

I haul a semi-conscious Matt out of bed and into a cab at around 2PM for brunch at Harbour City. It was raining that day, so I thought it would be best to stay indoors. Besides, at the sorry state we were in, I don’t think either of us was in the mood for sightseeing and exploring.

We head straight towards Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao on the third floor of the shopping mall, expecting to be immediately ushered into a half-empty restaurant. “Don’t worry,” I reassure Matt, “It’s 2:30PM. I’m sure the lunch crowd is gone”. Boy, was I ever wrong! There were at least twenty people standing outside, staring transfixed at the number board, hoping that their number comes out next. We got our own number stub from the receptionist and we waited our turn, quite impatiently.

Now, it was bad enough to have to wait in line for a table. But, like a bad joke, the number board was doing this strange flip-flop with the numbers. 356, 357, 358, 359… And then it would go back to 90, 91, 92, and so on. Tired, hungry and hungover, Matt and I were about ready to pounce on that number board and tear it into tiny pieces. Before we knew it, we turned on each other and started fighting about going there. So, to end our madness, Matt got some spinach quiche from a nearby Starbucks to stave-off our hunger until we get a table.

After almost an hour, we were finally shown to our table. Despite the huge Sunday crowd, the modern and casual dining room was clean and organized. The wait staff was scurrying around as fast as they could, but it did not feel chaotic. We immediately order from the Shanghainese menu as if we were a table for four. We sip on some hot tea which was on the table when we arrived, assuming it was complimentary. We were shocked later on to discover that we were charged for it! I do not really mind, since I would have ordered hot tea anyway. But I just do not think it was right to serve customers an item which they did not order and then charge them for it.

Anyway, our food finally arrives, starting with some dimsum. I got myself some Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Pork Dumplings) which is the restaurant’s specialty. The dome-shaped dumplings- filled with a savory pork filling and hot soup- are dipped in dark vinegar, and then consumed by first puncturing the thin wrapper with my teeth and then sipping some of the soup. When the contents have cooled, I suck the dumpling into my mouth, enjoying the strong flavors of scallions and the juicy pork. Obviously, I devoured this before realizing I forgot to take a picture. (Note: Actually, I think Matt asked me if I wanted to take pictures of the food, and I just grunted in reply. Oh well.)




What really made this meal note-worthy, though, was the La Mian with Spicy Beef Soup- another house specialty. La Mian are Chinese hand-pulled noodles cooked either in a soup (usually beef or mutton-flavored) or stir-fried in a tomato-based sauce. The one we ordered was in a steaming, spicy broth flavored with thin beef slices and big red chilies. The result was simply divine- the soup was aromatic and rich in flavor, the spice level was just enough to make you sweat a bit, not painful at all. The noodles were firm, almost elastic, to the point that it took some effort to cut them. For me, it was close to perfection, the best bowl of noodles I have had in a very long time.

Matt also ordered some dishes for himself but they were just ok. We both agreed that the La Mian was the star of this meal.

After our late brunch, we walked out of Harbour City and saw that it was still drizzling. With our stomachs full and our heads still buzzing from the night before, we just shrugged and decided to go back to the hotel for a nap. I was a bit guilty about wasting a whole afternoon in the hotel room when I should be enjoying the sights and the shopping. But then, with the cool, rainy day and our tummies full of delicious hot soup, I really could not think of a better thing to do at that point.



Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao
3/F Harbour City
Canton Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)26222699

The Rich and the Famous

No, I am not talking about the celebrities blitzing around Beverly Hills in their Rolls-Royce Phantoms or the royal brats vacationing in Monte Carlo. I am talking about a certain goose that is probably just as quintessentially-Hong Kong as the city’s skyline and it’s Victoria Peak.

Ask any local or regular Hong Kong vacationer and they would know that the place-to-be for roast goose is Yung Kee. Acting as Matt’s tour guide for his first trip to the city, I decided to start-off our Saturday night at this Hong Kong institution. We have made plans with a friend to go clubbing in the area anyway, so after taking the Star Ferry from Kowloon (part of the “tour”), getting off at Admiralty, and then taking the cab to Queen’s Road (where we started our trek upwards to Wellington Street), we walked into a jam-packed Yung Kee at around 9PM.

This huge restaurant has four floors, and if what the Michelin Guide says is true, the higher up you are, the better the food. I have eaten in both the ground and 3rd floors, and honestly, I could not tell the difference. So far, all my meals at Yung Kee have been pleasantly memorable.

We were sent up to the 2nd floor wherein the lobby was converted to be the designated receiving area for the restaurant. Soon after, we were given a number by the receptionist and we patiently waited our turn despite our rumbling stomachs. After a 20 minute wait, our number came up and we were given a nice corner table downstairs. I liked that it was far from the center of the busy dining room to avoid being bumped in the head by a frazzled waiter.



I quickly ordered the dishes that I wanted and sipped hot tea as we waited. First to come out was a starter of Preserved Eggs and Pickled Ginger. Even as a child, I have always been fond of this strange-looking delicacy. I like how Yung Kee’s version is gooey in the middle with the century egg’s trademark umami lingering long after I have consumed my share. A friend’s recommendation is to have it with the pickled ginger, which was at the same time sharply acidic and candy-sweet. Matt begged-off a second round, so I immediately order another one for myself.



Next to arrive was our “Consuelo de bobo” order of fresh seasonal vegetables (I forget what it’s called) to accompany our main dish, as well as two cups of steamed rice. It was very simply sautéed in garlic and oil allowing the fresh vegetal quality to shine through. It took a while for our entrée to come out, so we had to send the rice (which has gone cold) back to be replaced by steaming-hot ones.



Finally, the goose is served. We ordered half which- as the chuckling server said- should be enough for the two of us. After giving ourselves a moment to admire the bird’s glistening skin and its dark meat which promises to be gamey and flavorful, we attack our goose with the fervor of blood-hungry predators. The roast goose, to be honest, was not as I remembered it (lean but juicy, robust and rich). I found it to be too cold and a bit too tough. I understand that the slightly-gristly meat is typical of this game bird, but it was much tougher this time. Matt, too, was a tad underwhelmed, but still proclaimed it to be a really good meal. Besides, we were freaking hungry, so we gobbled it all up, anyway.

After a pause to recover from our sinful dinner, we tackle the treacherous (for me, at least, in my four-inch-heeled “hooker” boots) hike up D’Aguilar St. to get to another Hong Kong landmark- Lan Kwai Fong. This legendary hot spot in the center of Hong Kong’s business district is famous for its string of bars, restaurants and clubs wherein the parties last until the early hours of the morning. On weekends, the party spills out into the streets and, that portion of D’Aguilar leading up to LKF, is closed to traffic. Matt, known for his unsatiable appetite for the night life, has been looking forward to this part of the trip the most.



We decided to wait for our friend, Wolfgang, at LUX, where we had a few drinks at the bar. Upon his arrival, we have a celebratory shot of Patron tequila to kick off a night of partying.


We continue on up the street to Wyndham Road (At this point Matt is already semi-dragging me. Damn boots.), taking the elevator up Hotel LKF to the roof deck bar called Azure. The mostly expat crowd sipped their single malts and martinis in dark, deep couches while looking out onto the now-quiet city. After a drink, Wolfgang said we had to move on.





He then took us next door to Dragon-I (which, aside from being the hottest club in HK, also serves a mean dimsum brunch, I heard), where he thoughtfully reserved a table for us and had to get to it by 11:30PM. When we arrived, the party was just starting, the lounges and the long bar slowly filling up with the city’s beautiful party people. We were required to purchase a bottle in order to reserve the table, and so the three of us shared a bottle of Belvedere vodka with complimentary cans of Red Bull. The events that happened beyond this point are quite blurry to me, and I believe it is best that they stay that way.











I love Hong Kong. And now, Matt does, too.






Yung Kee
Wellington St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)25221624

Azure
29/F Hotel LKF
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)35189330

Dragon-I
Upper Ground, The Centrium
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)31101222

Quick Bites: Hing Fat Tea House (Hong Kong)

After our substantial seafood lunch at Lamma Island, we took the ferry back to Central and did some shopping. After a quick pit stop at Lux in Lan Kwai Fong (an area in Hong Kong that is world-renowned for its night life), our tummies were once again signaling us for a refill. Too tired to think and feeling grimy from all that walking, I- along with Foxychef, Beersponge and Juggies (my parents have already gone back to the hotel), decided to take the MTR back to Tsim Sha Tsui, head straight to the hotel and order room service.

From the station, we were walking towards Canton Road when Foxychef spotted the assortment or restaurants and bars in Ashley Road. We stopped in front of a small teahouse where there was a glistening combination of roasted meats hanging behind their glass window. We did not even have to think since our stomachs made the decision for us. We immediately walk into the busy dining room and order.

The dining room of Hing Fat was typical of any Hong Kong tea house: walls plastered with pictures of the house specialties (in this case, everything in the menu was on display), the lighting severe, the decors simple and utilitarian.

First to arrive was the Roast Pork. We were so hungry that we dove into it before our fried rice arrives. The skin was crispy with a good blistery top, like a perfectly-cooked lechon kawali. The meat was so tender and flavorful that I did not find myself looking for the sauce.

Next up was our order of one-half Roast Goose. Again, it was perfectly roasted and flavorful, the considerable layer of fat under the skin ensuring the mouth-watering moistness of the meat. There’s really nothing left to say.

To balance out our heart attack-inducing meal, we ordered some Broccoli with Garlic and Red Peppers, along with several pots of complimentary hot tea.

We loved this place so much that we took my parents here after Sunday mass. My dad, a big fan of Cantonese food, had nothing but good things to say about the dishes that we ordered. Also a horse-racing aficionado, he was more than pleased when the manager was kind enough to switch to the horse-racing channel so that he can catch the Mercedes Benz Derby Trials in Sha Tin on the flat screen in front of us. In my dad’s world, that meal could not have gotten any better.

Hing Fat Tea House
Ashley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Hong Kong, China

Hong Kong, Day 2: Lamma Island

My head still heavy from the partying we did the night before, I forced myself out of bed for lunch. My sister Foxychef has arranged a seafood lunch at Lamma Island and was insistent that we still forge ahead with the plan, despite the bad hangovers. So, at breakfast, I down my favorite day-after remedy (an ice-cold Coke Light) and get on the ferry to Central.

From Central, my group (Me, Foxychef, Beersponge, Juggies and my parents) took another 35-minute ferry ride to the island’s Sok Kwu Wan port where Foxychef’s brochure told us we’ll find the row of seafood restaurants. Despite the fog and dismal weather, the hydrofoil ride was mostly smooth, with the occasional side-slap from medium-sized waves.

Lamma Island is the third largest land mass after Hong Kong and Kowloon and has become popular with both locals and tourists for their fresh seafood. As we approached the dock at Sok Kwu Wan, we saw the shore which is dotted with “fish cages” and lined with several restaurants. It reminds me of our local “Sea Side” wherein you buy seafood from the market and then bring your purchases to one of the restaurant for them to be cooked as you preferred.

As we got off the boat, our complaining stomachs led us to the first restaurant on the row- Rainbow Seafood. We were immediately welcomed by Bryan, who seemed to be either the head waiter or resident English speaker of the establishment.

He showed seafood experts Foxychef and company their live fish and crustaceans in tanks and baskets, while I was mesmerized by their see-through fridge stocked with a pretty decent selection of white wines.

We got a table on their expansive veranda by the sea and Bryan promised to take care of how our food was going to be prepared.

First to arrive were the Szechuan Bamboo Clams. The tubular clams were tender with a bit of a bite, a pleasant sea taste coming through the mildly spicy sauce.

Quick to follow were the Scallops and Clams prepared the same way- steamed with vermicelli, garlic and scallions. The beauty of this dish is in its simplicity, the garlic mellowed out by the steaming and effectively eliminating any fishyness from the shellfish.

Next was a lobster-relative called squilla, deep-fried and sprinkled with crispy noodles, garlic and chillies. It had a tender and juicy texture similar to our pitik or horseshoe crab. I liked the crispy, salty topping.

Right after that was the lobster prepared the same way as the scallops and clams. By this time I was growing tired of all the garlic, and after the squilla, the lobster meat seemed tougher by comparison. I can’t complain, though: it was still fresh lobster that was very well-prepared.

Finally, we were served the Steamed Fish which was sliced and then stir-fried in vegetables and green peppers. It was a simple dish and could have been outstanding if not for the overload of pungent aromas and strong flavors which preceded it.

Since I was in the company of beer drinkers, I had almost an entire bottle of wine to myself. Out of the restaurant’s fridge, I picked out a Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2005 from Marlborough, New Zealand. I have always been partial to Sauvignon Blancs from this region, enjoying the pleasant gooseberries its generally bright and crisp character. I was surprised that this particular Sav Blanc is almost buttery and with a pronounced oakiness- a characteristic more common with Chardonnays. I read somewhere that this particular Cloudy Bay sav blanc has had some considerable time in the barrel, which gives it that rounder, burlier character.

Personally, I found this odd. Why make a Sauvignon Blanc taste like a chard? Oh well, I suppose some people are into that, but I prefer my New Zealand Sav blancs done the traditional way.

It was a good lunch enjoyed by all, even non-seafood lovers like myself. The service was great since we were the only ones there, and none of that frantic craziness I usually associate with waiters in Hong Kong. Must be the island vibe.

The Duck is My Friend

I was reading my old e-mails and saw one from an ex-boyfriend. I sent him one of those chain mails that test you how well you know the other person. On the question “What is my favourite food?”, he replied, “I don’t know if it’s still the same, but before it was Peking Duck.”

That got me thinking. The thing is: If you would ask me now, I would easily say that my most favourite dish in the world would be pasta. I could eat the stuff morning, noon and night, in any shape or configuration. Soggy or al dente, hot or cold, I WILL EAT IT.

Peking Duck, though, is what I would call, my “Dish for All Reasons”. When I am happy and celebratory, nothing beats the ceremonial pageantry that comes with eating Peking Duck. When meeting Matt’s mother for the first time, I knew that nothing could be more thoughtful (and impressive) than the glistening and crispy skin of roast duck prepared by the able chefs of Shang Palace. When I got my heart broken by said ex? Peking Duck.

This succulent and universally-loved dish is a specialty of Beijing (The City Formerly Known as Peking) and was being prepared by their cooks since the Yuan Dynasty. Authentic Peking Ducks are first grown free-range for 45 days and then confined to be force-fed until they reach the acceptable size of 6-7 kilos. There are different ways of preparing the dish, but all would involve blowing air in between the skin and the flesh to separate them, boiling for a few hours before hanging it in a closet to dry, until eventually being oven-roasted until golden brown.

My go-to place for really good Peking Duck in Makati was Peking Garden in Glorietta 2. After the unfortunate event that destroyed the area, we were left with nowhere to go for reasonably-priced yet delicious Peking Duck. (Note: Peking Garden has since moved to Trinoma Mall.)Recently, though, my sister and brother-in-law ate at Hai Shin Lou in Arnaiz Ave. where they had really good and reasonably-priced food, including half a Peking Duck which, at P800, is a steal.

One Thursday evening, Matt and I gave in to our duck cravings and met our friends- siblings Mrs. Nadal and The Manchild; Mr. And Mrs. G-RO; and gorgeous blogger Cosmopolicious- for Peking Duck at Hai Shin Lou. Parking was full, but luckily the place had valet parking. The interiors of the place looked relatively modern by Chinese restaurant standards, with the mandatory aquariums and Lazy Susans.

We were given a table in front of the aquariums, which proved to be a problem for me and Mrs. G-RO: The synchronized rising of the bubbles were giving the illusion that the room was going up or down, which oddly made us dizzy. I had to move to the other side of the table so my back was turned from the aquariums. Although slightly queasy, I was still raring to dive into our Chinese spread.



We started the meal with an order of the Seafood Roll with Mayonaise, a dish that I saw in another food blog and looked mighty tasty. Hai Shin Lou’s version, though, was a colossal disappointment. True, the crust was nicely crispy, but there was practically nothing inside. The Manchild grudgingly said, “I TOLD you we should have ordered the eggplant.”



We were not unhappy for too long because next to come out was the Peking Duck. The skin was perfectly-browned and shimmering in the light. The bird, to my surprise, was quite large by Manila standards. It was prepared, not table-side, but at a table a good five meters away. I suppose the dining room was not big enough to accommodate table-side food preparations, but we really did not mind.

Before we knew it, plate after heaping plate of duck skin wrapped in thin pancakes with hoisin sauce and scallions were being served. The sauce was a rich combination of savory and sweet, perfect with the crispy and delightfully oily duck skin. I was also impressed with their pancakes, which were nice and thin and silky, but just the right density to hold in the scrumptiously moist and sticky filling.



“Second way” was prepared deep fried with loads of garlic and peppercorn. This was very nicely done- not at all greasy, with its enticing aromas prodding you to eat more, the flesh still moist and the leftover skin crispy and nicely salty.

For our beef dish, we ordered the Fried Beef with Tausi sauce and Green Pepper. The thinly-sliced beef was tender and juicy, the sauce nicely flavoured with the tausi. This dish was what made me eat more fried rice than I was supposed to. Very, very tasty, indeed.



To balance out the high-cholesterol dishes, we also ordered a Hotpot of Beancurd and Baby Pechay. My expectations from this dish were naturally low: What would you expect from a dish with the words “beancurd” and “pechay” in it? Nevertheless, it was not bad at all.

The starch of choice was Fried Rice with Salted Fish and Chicken. This was also quite good and had a curiously sticky texture to it. The Manchild helpfully informed me that they steam the rice twice to give it that consistency. With a renewed appreciation for the attention given this dish, I actually learned to enjoy it more.

After that enormous meal, we lingered a bit longer to chat and catch up on each other’s lives. It really is nice to have a group of people who share similar passions with you. In this case, there’s that love for good food and living well. Matt and I are already planning a return visit to Hai Shin Lou for more Peking duck- maybe next time with my family or his mom- and we’re not even bothering to think of a good reason.

Hai Shin Lou
Arnaiz Ave.
(between Paseo de Roxas Ave.
and Amorsolo St.)
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 8925148