New Dishes at an Old Favorite

I love those get-togethers that are totally random. Matt had a dinner meeting in Makati, so I was left with nothing to do after work. Luckily, my favorite single ladies- Mrs. Nadal and Cookie Goddess- were free that evening. I remember that Terry’s Segundo Piso had new menu items so- without having to worry about Matt and his dietary restrictions- I asked the girls if they wanted to try it out. As expected, their reply was a resounding “yes”.


They picked me up at my parents’ place and we all headed to Segundo Piso’s Pasong Tamo branch. The restaurant is located above (hence, the name) their famous deli where their impressive wine selection and European delicacies are made available to us foodies. The spacious dining room is modern and cozy, making it the perfect place to indulge without having to fuss over what to wear. Everything seems unchanged, from the wooden shelves filled with wine bottles, the high ceiling and the open kitchen. As usual, we spot the owner and culinary icon JC de Terry, with his brother-in-law Antonio Garcia and two other ladies. Mrs. Nadal says hello while Cookie Goddess and I find our table.



Famished, we look through the snazzy new menu and marvel at the number of new dishes being offered. Without waiting for Mrs. Nadal (who was still chatting with JC and company), we quickly order new appetizers to try. Our wine of choice- a 2008 Protos Rosado from Ribera del Duero- was already chilled, so we quickly had our pours before it was submerged in an ice bucket. I love this rose with Spanish food- just enough acidity to cut through the fat and the right balance of fruit and dryness to compliment almost any dish.


When Mrs. Nadal finally came to our table, the server informed us that our order of Duck for the Gods (OMG, right?) was not available, so we asked Mrs. Nadal to pick something else. Despite hints to pick from the new appetizers, she still decided to go with the classic- Chorizo on Piggyback. I cannot blame her- this classic SP dish never fails to disappoint in terms of flair and flavor. The chorizo is first flambéed in a pig-shaped clay cooking vessel before being sliced and plated. I noticed that the plating in SP has improved greatly, adding to the aesthetic appeal of their dishes.



Our next appetizer was the Tuna Belly Tempura with Artichoke Dip. Purists would gasp at the sight of this in a Spanish menu, but as they thoughtfully explain to us gringos, tempura was actually brought to Japan from Spain by Jesuit priests. So, tempura IS Spanish. Pushing technicalities aside, it was simply scrumptious- the crispy batter was flavorful and airy, while the fish was flaky and moist. The dip, too, was a nice accompaniment with its subtle earthiness and texture from the artichokes.



As we chatted and chewed on the tempura, the Stuffed Piquillo Peppers arrive. This is one sexy dish if I have ever seen one. The bright red peppers- looking shiny and lacquered- slide around your mouth as you slowly break them down with your tongue. The stuffing is creamy and velvet smooth with delicate flavors of cheese and Iberico. I can imagine Javier Bardem and Penelope Cruz feeding each other this dish with their hands in that sexy way that they do… Penelope’s thick, tousled dark hair just brushing the peaks of her decolletage as she leans over to pop a stuffed pepper into Javier’s full mouth. You get what I mean.



Finally, the Paella Negra is served- a personal favorite, something SP does very well. Cookie Goddess and I both notice, though, that it seemed to be lacking in flavor a bit. We really could not place a finger on it (The broth was bland? Not enough squid ink?), but there seemed to be something missing. Whatever it was, we still finished the dish off. It was still good, but being used to superlatives when it comes to SP’s paellas, we knew we have had better.

Needless to say, the girls and I will be back again to try more of their new dishes, as well as to “re-try” the old favorites. It makes me happy to see that an old-timer like JC de Terry continues to challenge himself and is more than happy to give his regulars something new and adventurous. He’s a true artist, as his many fans call him, and I could not wait to try more of his new creations.



Segundo Piso at Terry’s Selection
Karivin Plaza
Pasong Tamo Ext.
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 8441816

Segundo Piso has other branches in One Lafayette Sedeno cor. Valero Sts., Salcedo Village, Makati City and at the Lower Ground Floor of The Podium, San Miguel Ave., Ortigas Center, Pasig City.

Brunch-ing Manila: Mamou

Brunch is one of my favorite indulgences. First of all, it’s not an activity I can do every day: I do have a day job, you know. On most days, breakfast consists of a soggy bowl of oatmeal and some eggs, or maybe cereal, and then I’m blitzing out the door. Second, I do not have the metabolism (or the talent of regurgitating my meals) of a Brazilian supermodel that I can treat myself to regular helpings of bacon, French toast, eggs Benny, and all the other delectables you’ll find in a brunch menu. Finally, on weekends when I can actually have brunch, I sometimes find myself hungover and tired that the best meal I could think of is my trusty fixer-upper of instant noodle soup and ice-cold Coke Zero.


When I do get the chance, though, brunch could be pure bliss. In Manila- where tapsilog (beef tapa, garlic fried rice and fried egg) continues its reign as the ultimate all-day breakfast meal (and for good reason)- brunch is quickly becoming a favorite weekend past time. Several restaurants have decided to jump on its popularity and are opening their doors a couple of hours earlier to serve their versions of several breakfast favorites.


Mamou has been serving brunch for a couple of years now and are still packing them in. On Saturdays and Sundays, they open at 10 AM to offer a few brunch menu items along with their regular menu.


Matt and I have decided to stay in one Saturday, and so we both had the energy to rise from bed at 9AM the next day. I called before 10 to see if we could be squeezed in for their second seating, and Annie- Mamou’s charming sister- said that she can easily get us a table for two. Great! Yaya Del also decided to take the day off, so it was perfect timing for a little weekend pampering.

When Matt and I arrived, we were quickly led to our table, which- curiously- had both of our names on it. Matt thought it was cute and told me later on that I should have taken a picture of it, since normally they just put the name of the person who called to reserve.



As we checked out the menu, I was tempted to try the new dishes in their regular line-up of Mamou’s specialties. We have not been back for quite a while, so I found myself being lured towards the Bottarga pasta. But, I quickly reminded myself that we were there for brunch, and so I returned my attention towards the brunch menu.

While waiting for our dishes, I sipped on a Mamou’sBellini- a refreshing mix of sparkling wine and either orange or grapefruit juice.



First to arrive was Matt’s order of Pappy’s Toast- smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, capers and cream cheese on top of toasted wholewheat sourdough. We were pleasantly surprised by the mountain of smoked salmon which, for the price, is really a good deal. Matt loves his smoked salmon, and oftentimes he is disappointed when he is presented with a flimsy portioning of the stuff. Luckily, Mamou delivered.




I willed myself not to order the Eggs Benedict, and got myself the Rau’s Platter- Two slices of French toast, two tiny “pancakes”, and some Neurmberger sausages. If I must nitpick, I have to admit that the description of this dish on the menu was a bit difficult to understand. Despite a long consultation with the waiter, I was still pretty confused about what I was getting. In the end, I just said, “Er, Ok, I’ll have the sausages with it”, just to move things along. Good thing I was happy with what came out. I loved how whole eggs were integrated into the toast, and how the bread was soft and fluffy, melting in my mouth after being doused in syrup. The sausages were delicious- juicy, garlicky, peppery. Everything good sausages should be.




When we were done with our plates, we were quickly tempted by the server with dessert. Matt and I decided to share their Pecan Pie with Schlagzhane (sweetened whipped cream), something we have had a few times before. Warm, sweet, gooey- it was the perfect ending to a really good Sunday brunch.

Mamou
Serendra Piazza
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City
Tel. no. (632)8563569

Let It Be... Mediterranean

The birthday of a dear cousin, Kuya Vince, brought me and some relatives to Alabang one weekend. It is very rare that I take a car ride longer than thirty minutes for a meal, like those special occasions when dinner at Antonio’s in Tagaytay is called for. But then, Kuya Vince- like most of us in our family- loves his food, so I immediately assume that the restaurant where we will be celebrating his birthday has the following qualities: good food, reasonable prices, and “manly-man” servings. These, predictably, have piqued my curiosity. So, I skip the usual weekend partying to prepare myself for the long drive and the hearty lunch the following day.


Fortunately, the ride from my parents’ place in Makati until the Filinvest Exit on SLEX did not take longer than thirty minutes. When we arrived at Sophia's Mediterranean Deli, we were warmly welcomed at the door by the chef/owner Mervyn Whitfield. The friendly Brit is famously known to have cooked for the legendary band, The Beatles, among other celebrities. He has decided to retire in the Philippines with his Filipina wife and kids and ended up opening the Greek/Italian/Turkish/French restaurant in Alabang.


The cheery interiors are obviously Greek- white plastered walls, Aegean blue shutters, wrought iron staircase, gas lamps as light fixtures, large Grecian urns holding mini palm trees. You get the shabby chic feel that puts you right at ease but still gives off a polished look.


As we hungrily waited for the rest to arrive, we decide to start ordering for everyone to share. Since the dishes were served family-style, I got to try a little bit of (almost) everything. With the amount of food that we ordered, I do not remember which ones came in what order. I have decided to just group the dishes into two categories: The “musts” and “must avoids”.

You must have…


Pizza Quatro Formagia- Amusingly, two orders of this pizza came to our table before we even ordered them. It was meant for another table, obviously, but as fate would have it, they were the wrong size. Famished, we were only too happy to accommodate them at our table and welcome them into their new homes- our hungry bellies. The toppings are just right and the perfect combination of gooey, pungent and rich. I would not drive all the way to Alabang for this, but if I find myself in the area, this would surely be my go-to pizza place.



Blue Cheese Salad- Simple, straight-forward flavors. Fresh salad greens lightly coated with a tangy vinaigrette, then topped with copious amounts of crumbly blue cheese, walnuts and tomatoes.




Bruschetta- crispy rounds of sliced baguette and topped by a fresh pomodoro sauce. The diced tomatoes are sweet and nicely accented by a hint of garlic and olive oil. It’s a really nice light starter or snack.



Kalamarikia (Fried Calamari)- Again, a pretty straight-forward dish- quite common and easy to make, but is also easy to mess up. The breaded crust is crispy and nicely-flavored, the thin rings of squid moist and tender. Dipped in aioli, it’s quite addicting.



Grilled Prawns with Mashed Potatoes- I wasn’t able to taste the grilled prawns, but I was told that it was cooked perfectly. The mashed potatoes I did try though, and yes, it tastes as good as it looks.



Osso Bucco (family-sized) with Mashed Potatoes- “Parang mechado”, my Tito Boy said with his signature chuckle. But, despite the similarity to the local stew, it really was not bad. Well, we did end up finishing it, right down to the bone. The beef shank was very tender and the tomato sauce quite flavorful.



Baby Back Ribs- Although I was not able to try this, the huge platter of the massive pork ribs remained in front of the birthday celebrant the entire time. He obviously loves it. I say, it must be good.



Veal Lemono- I am not a big fan of breaded meats, but once in a while I get a craving for veal scallopine. This one was flavored- delicately, almost prettily- by fragrant lemons and some seriously delicious butter. And again, those darn good mashed potatoes…


Sadly, you must avoid…



Chicken Liver Pate- The spread had an unpleasant aftertaste that I could barely stand. I did not even finish the slice of pita that came with it.





The pastas- I got to try two kinds- one with a tomato cream sauce and the other was a Ravioli Verde. Unfortunately, the former arrived swimming in sauce, and the latter was a bright Irish green. Aside from being visually unappetizing, they were also lacking in flavor. Too bad.



Seafood Platter- Although this was a pretty sight, I have to admit that I have had better grilled seafood. The mussels were pretty dry and this time around the squid rings were quite tough.




Overall, it was a good lunch made great by the wonderful company. I had an awesome time chatting with the adults and watching my cute nieces and nephews goof around and play. Some of the grown-ups even joined in the fun and went along with the silliness. That’s what I love about my family… We sure are far from perfect, but when we get together, it is always great fun.




Sophia’s Mediterranean Deli
Westgate, Filinvest
Alabang, Muntinlupa City
Tel. no. (632)7717717

Soup Worth Sweating For

I know, I know. What am I doing, eating hot soup in the middle of this punishing Manila summer? I thought the same thing when my sister, Foxychef, sent me a text that she is having Shabu-shabu (an oriental stew consisting of meat, seafoods, noodles and vegetables, usually cooked right on the table) with my parents for lunch and they are picking me up at the office. But then, I haven’t seen Foxychef this excited about food in a really long time, so I knew that there must be something special about this particular shabu-shabu.



Lau Chan is a small operation and it looks like it hasn’t changed since the day it opened. The dated furniture, harsh fluorescent lighting and grandma’s wallpaper immediately tell you that this is not a date place. For sure, that is not the reason this place is packed during lunch and the dining room is abuzz with activity. “It’s all about the food”, I thought to myself.



After we were seated, the server asked us what kind of broth we wanted for our shabu-shabu. From a sheet of paper, we picked out the items we wanted to cook in the broth, such as fresh beef and squid balls, vegetables, sliced beef belly, fish cakes, and udon noodles. Bowls of minced garlic, hot chili peppers, sate sauce and shabu-shabu sauce were placed in front of us. Compared to the ones at Mini Shabu-shabu, the sauces are much tastier and more authentic.



As we wait for the broth to boil, I wonder just how different this shabu-shabu could be from the others I have tried. After all, boiled food is just that- boiled food. Right?



Wrong! As we slowly immersed the ingredients into the boiling soup, you could smell the deep, concentrated spices that you can only get from hours of simmering. The flavorful broth lends its strong essence to the vegetables and the meats as they quickly cook in the hotpot. Paper-thin slices of beef belly are dipped into the pot for a few seconds before dunking it again into the sauce mixture. With the thick udon, this stew on its own is a pretty hearty meal. But, with the savory aromas from the pot and the addictive dipping sauce, I could not stop myself from cooking and eating until there was no space left in my groaning stomach.

Full beyond belief with sweat hanging from my upper lip, I lean back on my chair with a satisfied grin. That was probably the best shabu-shabu meal I have had so far. And it only got better when we got the check for less than P1000. It’s going to be hard to top that.



Lau Chan Shabu-shabu and Fast Foods
Mabini St.
Malate, Manila

Lu and Wagyu

It was a great morning to begin with.

The summer sun was bashfully peering through our blinds in the bedroom, the slits allowing a peek at the majestic expanse of the golf course below, while the sheets and pillows were pleasantly cool from the air conditioning. Matt is sleeping soundly beside me, muttering incomprehensible phrases in German while he dreams. I enjoy these quiet moments in the morning when I get to move around at my own pace, going through my morning rituals as I slowly get energized for the day ahead.

I check my e-mails as I usually do, and there it was: an invitation to dinner from Luis de Terry at his restaurant, Lu. It was exciting enough to be summoned to a tasting dinner by one of Manila’s explosive new chefs, but when he said that it was a tie-up with the local distributors of Snake River Farms Wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork, it was truly what some of my wildest gastronomic fantasies are made of. Without even asking if I could bring my husband or if our common friend Maggie was also going, I immediately say “yes”. All of a sudden, what was a pleasant morning just got ten times better, and I jump back into bed and snuggle up to my hubby (Yes, pervs, we just snuggled).



Fast forward to a week later and I was psyched. As I walked into Lu’s well-lit interior, the handsome chef/owner greeted me and introduced me to his sister and friends. We then chatted about the dishes and I asked him if there was going to be wine pairing. “Of course! “, he exclaims, “in fact, I better get started before I have too much Krug”. “Krug champagne?! Why didn’t you say so! Give me some of that!” I tell Luis, who quickly motioned to the bartender and then made a beeline for the kitchen. I get my bubbly from the bar and scan the room for a seat.



Luckily, I spot the familiar face of my Tito Randy and make my way towards him. A ferocious foodie and wine lover, he was also one of the lucky few whom Lu invited to the event. Always full of energy and armed with a quick wit and great sense of humor, I could not have asked for a better dinner companion. Plus, he’s a cardiologist, so in the worst-case scenario that my heart stops beating after five courses of wagyu beef, then at least I’m covered.




The other guys at our table were: Ramon del Gallego, brother of part-owner Christine; and Tito Locsin, Christine’s boyfriend. Without bias, I really think we had the craziest table. Conversations flowed naturally and topics transitioned with ease from food to travel to sex and back again, punctuated by raucous fits of laughter. I noticed we had a lot of visitors at our table (like Teddy Montelibano and Manoy Llige), and I kind of wished that we had more space to accommodate all the interesting characters I met that night.



Finally, the event opens with an introduction about Snake River Farms and their products. As we fidgeted in our seats, eager to get dinner going, they showed us a short documentary about the company, its history and their commitment to excellence. The clip was quite informative and made me appreciate the dinner that was about to be served even more.



In the short e-mails Chef Lu and I exchanged the week before the dinner, he described vaguely to me what he plans to do with the featured meats. Although he did not go into detail, he told me that he has informed Alternatives Food Corporation (the local distributor of SRF products) that the food will be prepared in his signature bold style. This means, of course, lush and exotic flavors from Latin America, Africa and the Mediterranean with a breath of sexy Asian influences. This is normally scary terrain for me, but I learn to trust Luis and his craziness and just brace myself for the culinary roller coaster ride I know I am about to go on.



First to tease our palate was an appetizer of Flat Iron Carpaccio & Curry Cream Nigiri/Top Blade and Artichoke Phyllo Pinwheel. I pick up the “sushi” with my fingers and scrape a bit of the cream with it. The cream was surprisingly light but firm, like it was vigorously whipped and then chilled. The curry was not overpowering and the musky flavor acts as an accent to the lean meat. The boys seem to favor the pinwheel, though, with its complex play on textures- the tenderness of the beef alongside the crisp asparagus, fresh scallions and fried phyllo. A shot of sake completes the plate and highlights the playful allusion to Asian flavors. We all agree that we were off to a good start.



The next course was a Pillowed Kurobuta Pork Belly Confit/Kurobuta Cochinita Pibil on Turmeric Puri. The pork belly was served kuapao-style in a thick but airy bun. I was hoping for more flavor and crunch from this one, so I preferred the Pibil which was perfectly juicy and aromatic, accented by the sweet-sour of the pickled onions. The dish was accompanied by a glass of Mays Chardonnay ’07. I liked how it was young and had a nice acidity to it that cut through the sweet and pungent flavors as well as the rich fattiness of the pork.



The “fish” course came in the form of a Moroccan Ox Tongue & Fresh Water Prawn Salad, accompanied by the same white wine. “They said it cannot be done”, Luis shared later on. But true to his rebellious style of cooking, he went ahead and grilled the ox tongue around batonettes of zucchini and mushrooms. It had a very mild smokiness to it and a surprisingly soft texture. This dish was a modest success, a chilled-out interlude to what has so far been a full-on attack on the senses.



My favorite dish for the night was the Harissa Glazed Tenderloin Brochettes/Peruvian Anticucho Hanger Steak. This is a great example of taking the highest-quality ingredients and using simple techniques executed to perfection. The brochettes were grilled medium-rare and alive with the flavors of exotic spices. The hanger steak was lean and butter-soft, the couscous pleasantly fragrant and fluffy. Amazing, amazing flavors, all around. I hope they put this on their regular menu. The accompanying glass of Chateau Pauillac ’04 had a nice full body that went well with this bombshell of a dish.



I go outside for a smoke and by this time people are in a party mood. I loitered outside a bit longer than usual and, when I came back inside, my table companions have started with their Wagyu Gold Rib-eye with Dalandan-Chipotle Butter, accompanied by a glass of Callejo Reserva ’05. My steak was a tad overcooked, which I think is partly my fault since it must have been sitting in the warmer while I was outside. I can only imagine how good the dalandan-chipotle butter would be on a medium-done steak- I loved how you just get a whiff of the local citrus and the butter is both garlicky and just a bit spicy. At this point, I barely finish half of my steak as I feel my stomach being stretched to its limit. I marveled, though, at the men’s appetites as Manoy took small slices from Tito’s steak while he was not looking.



When they set the dessert- Honeydew Melon & Ginger Ice Cream/Wasabi & Orange Tiramisu- down on the table, I can only sleepily stare at it for a moment as I imagine my stomach cursing me. I get extra motivation when I hear Tito Randy exclaim, “Wow! Who would have even dreamt of putting wasabi in Tiramisu? And it actually works!” I take a spoonful of the tiramisu and let it linger in my mouth, as I felt the familiar heat from the wasabi make its way up my nasal passages. Chocolate and orange is a classic combination so it’s not surprising that these two would come together. The ice cream was also a lovely combination of sweet fruitiness and heat, nicely tying up the theme of the dessert.



After dinner, we all applaud the organizers and Chef Lu for an excellent meal. Everyone was definitely on party mode after all the wine and a few of us decided to stay on for some cocktails. After Tito Randy bid us good night, Manoy, Ramon and I ordered more cocktails and (gasp!) shots of Patron (as a much sober Christine looked on in amusement). Luckily, I was sleeping at my parents’ place nearby and did not have to worry about driving home. I was having so much fun with my new friends that I did not want to leave. Eventually, my triple-vision gave me the signal that it was time to re-hydrate and call it a night.



That evening of pure indulgence was definitely one for the books. Lu’s bold and eclectic flavors is something Manila’s culinary landscape has never seen before- a living, breathing organism that is a combination of different tastes and cultures- and it’s exciting to watch how it will continue to evolve. Thank you so much, Luis, for inviting me. I am eagerly awaiting the next one.



Lu
G/F Joya Lofts and Towers
Joya Drive, Rockwell
Makati City
Tel. no. (632)4033991

Alternatives Food Corporation
(Distributor of Snake River Farm products)
Unit 908 Richmonde Plaza
San Miguel Ave. cor. Lourdes St.
Ortigas Center, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6317228-30