Dinner with a View

It was our last night in Hong Kong and it was officially “date night”.

As much as I longed to try L’Atelier de Robuchon in Landmark or Bo Innovation in Wan Chai, I was just not in the mood to travel far from our hotel. I check my Michelin Guide for something in the area and picked out a resto that was within our budget and not more than ten minutes by cab.



Since Timmy and Cielo were having dinner at a restaurant below, Matt and I decided to have dinner at Aqua, located high above One Peking Road at Tsim Sha Tsui. The elevator took us directly to the restaurant’s lobby where we were greeted by the receptionists. I avoid using the word “chic” since it seems cliché, but it really is the best way to describe it. The frosted acrylic walkway is dimly-lit from below which gives you the feeling of walking on a cloud (or at least, what I imagined it to feel like).



You are then ushered up a few steps towards an automatic glass door that opens into a high-ceilinged dining room. A glass wall three stories high frames the priceless view of the harbor and Hong Kong’s famous skyline. It makes you wonder how much this piece of property must cost. The dark interiors are punctuated by the hanging red lanterns and flickering candles atop hard wood tables. The feel is very cosmopolitan and very posh.



As we requested, we were seated right by the window, which we figured out was not necessary since it seems that the dining room was configured in such a way so that all tables look out onto the harbor. It was a bit tight getting in and out of the couch seat, but other than that, it was a pretty cozy spot.



We ordered a bottle of Italian red wine- a very young (sorry, I forget the vintage) Fontanafredda Eremo, which is a Barbera and Nebbiolo blend. It was very easy to drink, and I remember liking it even more after an hour or so in the glass.



A unique feature of the restaurant is that it serves both Italian and Japanese food. Matt and I love both, but since we favor pizza more than sushi, we opted to go Italian. For our first course, we decided to share the Canelloni with Goat Cheese, Veal Shank Ragout and Spinach Cream, topped by a Porcini Mushroom. Wow! What a stunning dish! Unfortunately, the flavors do not match the presentation- more sex appeal than substance. What a pity.



Hugely disappointed by the first course, I waited for the entrees with mounting dread. Within minutes, our main courses were placed before us. Mine was the Black Angus Tenderloin , Foie Gras, Spinach and Sweet and Sour Pearl Onions. The beef was so incredibly tender it was like chewing on a marshmallow. The flavors all around it were very subtle, allowing the meatiness of the prime cut to shine. The foie added just the right amount of richness, and was also seared to perfection.



Matt also had foie in mind and ordered the Pizza with Duck Confit and Roasted Foie Gras. The crust was thin and crispy, just what we expected from a good pizza. The duck, though, could have been more seasoned. Matt thought this was ok but I could tell he was not completely happy with it. Guiltily, I share my juicy steak with him.



As we waited for dessert, Timmy and Cielo arrived and joined us after their dinner at Hutong. Dessert was a Warm Chocolate Cake with Hazelnut Ice Cream. If you do not like dark chocolate like Cielo, this is not for you. Matt and I liked it, though, loving the bittersweet and gooey center of the cake and the creamy gelato on the side.



We were also given complimentary Grapes soaked in Grappa (a strong Italian spirit made by distilling the pomace of grapes) which acted like a digestivo. It adds a nice touch to the fancy meal.

Although it was a pleasant meal, I would not visit this restaurant again for the reason that I know I could have better food for the price I paid. I can imagine why people come here- the interiors are beautiful and the view, priceless. Come here if you want to impress a hot date, maybe a supermodel that eats paper for breakfast. Otherwise, bring your Hong Kong dollars elsewhere.



After dinner, we met Jin at the lobby of One Peking and then we dropped by the Tapas Bar at Kowloon Shangri-la where Timmy had to meet up with some colleagues for some after-conference schmoozing. The rest of us had some drinks in another table while we waited for him and our other friend, Wolfgang.



After a shot of tequila, Cielo was ready to call it a night, while the rest of us went to Kimberley Road for drinks at Knutsford Terrace. We went to this bar called All Night Long, which is manned by an all-Filipino staff- from the band to the bartenders. We had fun dancing to 80’s glam rock songs and doing shots. Hungry after all that dancing, Wolfgang volunteered to walk to Ashley Road and pick up some Doner Kebabs from Ebeneezer’s. Needless to say, we devoured most of it, and brought home a couple of extras. Until this day, Timmy regrets giving us the two remaining Kebabs and not taking back one to the hotel.



We left All Night Long at around 2:30AM to bring Jin home to her pad in Clearwater Bay and got back to our hotel at 5:30AM. Yes, it was quite the joy ride, truly a very memorable one. Well, for most of us at least. Jin admits that she cannot remember anything from the time we sat on the bar at All Night Long.




I love Hong Kong.



Aqua
29 & 30/F One Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852) 25459889

All Night Long
9 Knutsford Terrace
Kimberley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852) 23679487

Yummy Yummy La Mian

After a night of partying at Lan Kwai Fong, I woke up in our dark hotel room with the expected dry mouth and throbbing headache. Matt, who seems to have been hit harder by the vodka truck than I was, is lying motionless next to me, his body emitting what seems to be the harsh smell of gasoline. I knew it was almost noon and so we have surely missed our complimentary breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant.

So, as I await signs of life from my husband, I just lay there and fantasized about brunch. The moment I awoke, I was already craving for noodle soup and dimsum, and I knew exactly where to go.

I haul a semi-conscious Matt out of bed and into a cab at around 2PM for brunch at Harbour City. It was raining that day, so I thought it would be best to stay indoors. Besides, at the sorry state we were in, I don’t think either of us was in the mood for sightseeing and exploring.

We head straight towards Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao on the third floor of the shopping mall, expecting to be immediately ushered into a half-empty restaurant. “Don’t worry,” I reassure Matt, “It’s 2:30PM. I’m sure the lunch crowd is gone”. Boy, was I ever wrong! There were at least twenty people standing outside, staring transfixed at the number board, hoping that their number comes out next. We got our own number stub from the receptionist and we waited our turn, quite impatiently.

Now, it was bad enough to have to wait in line for a table. But, like a bad joke, the number board was doing this strange flip-flop with the numbers. 356, 357, 358, 359… And then it would go back to 90, 91, 92, and so on. Tired, hungry and hungover, Matt and I were about ready to pounce on that number board and tear it into tiny pieces. Before we knew it, we turned on each other and started fighting about going there. So, to end our madness, Matt got some spinach quiche from a nearby Starbucks to stave-off our hunger until we get a table.

After almost an hour, we were finally shown to our table. Despite the huge Sunday crowd, the modern and casual dining room was clean and organized. The wait staff was scurrying around as fast as they could, but it did not feel chaotic. We immediately order from the Shanghainese menu as if we were a table for four. We sip on some hot tea which was on the table when we arrived, assuming it was complimentary. We were shocked later on to discover that we were charged for it! I do not really mind, since I would have ordered hot tea anyway. But I just do not think it was right to serve customers an item which they did not order and then charge them for it.

Anyway, our food finally arrives, starting with some dimsum. I got myself some Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Pork Dumplings) which is the restaurant’s specialty. The dome-shaped dumplings- filled with a savory pork filling and hot soup- are dipped in dark vinegar, and then consumed by first puncturing the thin wrapper with my teeth and then sipping some of the soup. When the contents have cooled, I suck the dumpling into my mouth, enjoying the strong flavors of scallions and the juicy pork. Obviously, I devoured this before realizing I forgot to take a picture. (Note: Actually, I think Matt asked me if I wanted to take pictures of the food, and I just grunted in reply. Oh well.)




What really made this meal note-worthy, though, was the La Mian with Spicy Beef Soup- another house specialty. La Mian are Chinese hand-pulled noodles cooked either in a soup (usually beef or mutton-flavored) or stir-fried in a tomato-based sauce. The one we ordered was in a steaming, spicy broth flavored with thin beef slices and big red chilies. The result was simply divine- the soup was aromatic and rich in flavor, the spice level was just enough to make you sweat a bit, not painful at all. The noodles were firm, almost elastic, to the point that it took some effort to cut them. For me, it was close to perfection, the best bowl of noodles I have had in a very long time.

Matt also ordered some dishes for himself but they were just ok. We both agreed that the La Mian was the star of this meal.

After our late brunch, we walked out of Harbour City and saw that it was still drizzling. With our stomachs full and our heads still buzzing from the night before, we just shrugged and decided to go back to the hotel for a nap. I was a bit guilty about wasting a whole afternoon in the hotel room when I should be enjoying the sights and the shopping. But then, with the cool, rainy day and our tummies full of delicious hot soup, I really could not think of a better thing to do at that point.



Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao
3/F Harbour City
Canton Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)26222699

The Rich and the Famous

No, I am not talking about the celebrities blitzing around Beverly Hills in their Rolls-Royce Phantoms or the royal brats vacationing in Monte Carlo. I am talking about a certain goose that is probably just as quintessentially-Hong Kong as the city’s skyline and it’s Victoria Peak.

Ask any local or regular Hong Kong vacationer and they would know that the place-to-be for roast goose is Yung Kee. Acting as Matt’s tour guide for his first trip to the city, I decided to start-off our Saturday night at this Hong Kong institution. We have made plans with a friend to go clubbing in the area anyway, so after taking the Star Ferry from Kowloon (part of the “tour”), getting off at Admiralty, and then taking the cab to Queen’s Road (where we started our trek upwards to Wellington Street), we walked into a jam-packed Yung Kee at around 9PM.

This huge restaurant has four floors, and if what the Michelin Guide says is true, the higher up you are, the better the food. I have eaten in both the ground and 3rd floors, and honestly, I could not tell the difference. So far, all my meals at Yung Kee have been pleasantly memorable.

We were sent up to the 2nd floor wherein the lobby was converted to be the designated receiving area for the restaurant. Soon after, we were given a number by the receptionist and we patiently waited our turn despite our rumbling stomachs. After a 20 minute wait, our number came up and we were given a nice corner table downstairs. I liked that it was far from the center of the busy dining room to avoid being bumped in the head by a frazzled waiter.



I quickly ordered the dishes that I wanted and sipped hot tea as we waited. First to come out was a starter of Preserved Eggs and Pickled Ginger. Even as a child, I have always been fond of this strange-looking delicacy. I like how Yung Kee’s version is gooey in the middle with the century egg’s trademark umami lingering long after I have consumed my share. A friend’s recommendation is to have it with the pickled ginger, which was at the same time sharply acidic and candy-sweet. Matt begged-off a second round, so I immediately order another one for myself.



Next to arrive was our “Consuelo de bobo” order of fresh seasonal vegetables (I forget what it’s called) to accompany our main dish, as well as two cups of steamed rice. It was very simply sautéed in garlic and oil allowing the fresh vegetal quality to shine through. It took a while for our entrée to come out, so we had to send the rice (which has gone cold) back to be replaced by steaming-hot ones.



Finally, the goose is served. We ordered half which- as the chuckling server said- should be enough for the two of us. After giving ourselves a moment to admire the bird’s glistening skin and its dark meat which promises to be gamey and flavorful, we attack our goose with the fervor of blood-hungry predators. The roast goose, to be honest, was not as I remembered it (lean but juicy, robust and rich). I found it to be too cold and a bit too tough. I understand that the slightly-gristly meat is typical of this game bird, but it was much tougher this time. Matt, too, was a tad underwhelmed, but still proclaimed it to be a really good meal. Besides, we were freaking hungry, so we gobbled it all up, anyway.

After a pause to recover from our sinful dinner, we tackle the treacherous (for me, at least, in my four-inch-heeled “hooker” boots) hike up D’Aguilar St. to get to another Hong Kong landmark- Lan Kwai Fong. This legendary hot spot in the center of Hong Kong’s business district is famous for its string of bars, restaurants and clubs wherein the parties last until the early hours of the morning. On weekends, the party spills out into the streets and, that portion of D’Aguilar leading up to LKF, is closed to traffic. Matt, known for his unsatiable appetite for the night life, has been looking forward to this part of the trip the most.



We decided to wait for our friend, Wolfgang, at LUX, where we had a few drinks at the bar. Upon his arrival, we have a celebratory shot of Patron tequila to kick off a night of partying.


We continue on up the street to Wyndham Road (At this point Matt is already semi-dragging me. Damn boots.), taking the elevator up Hotel LKF to the roof deck bar called Azure. The mostly expat crowd sipped their single malts and martinis in dark, deep couches while looking out onto the now-quiet city. After a drink, Wolfgang said we had to move on.





He then took us next door to Dragon-I (which, aside from being the hottest club in HK, also serves a mean dimsum brunch, I heard), where he thoughtfully reserved a table for us and had to get to it by 11:30PM. When we arrived, the party was just starting, the lounges and the long bar slowly filling up with the city’s beautiful party people. We were required to purchase a bottle in order to reserve the table, and so the three of us shared a bottle of Belvedere vodka with complimentary cans of Red Bull. The events that happened beyond this point are quite blurry to me, and I believe it is best that they stay that way.











I love Hong Kong. And now, Matt does, too.






Yung Kee
Wellington St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)25221624

Azure
29/F Hotel LKF
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)35189330

Dragon-I
Upper Ground, The Centrium
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)31101222

An American in Hong Kong

There are certain restaurants that I will never outgrow.

Oftentimes, it’s because of timeless flavors- just good, dependable food that satisfies every single time. Some places I love because of its proximity to where I live or work. While there are a select few I enjoy visiting over and over simply because of the fond memories I have associated with those restos and their food.



Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon is one place that I keep going back to for all those reasons. The food here is typical American, with most menu items you would easily find in other restaurant chains like Ruby Tuesday’s or Chili’s. But, what I love about this place is that the quality never wavers and, every time I come to visit, it’s the same good American fare. Our favorite hotel is also right behind it (Note: we did not stay there this time, since we wanted to try out this new boutique hotel on Kimberley Road), so it is very convenient for us to pop in for a drink or a late dinner. And, after all those trips to Hong Kong with my family, it just holds a permanent spot in my heart (and palate).

Matt and I went to Hong Kong for a quick vacation a couple of weeks ago to enjoy the nice cool weather and do the usual stuff. Since its Matt’s first time in this cosmopolitan city, I was eager to show him around and familiarize him with our old haunts. I knew that we were going to OD on Cantonese food while we were there, so in order to ease him into the local food scene gently, I thought I would bring him to Dan Ryan’s first for a late lunch. My dad already told him stories of his “me” time sipping beer at the bar, so Matt wanted to see one of our favorite spots.



The cozy, tavern-like interior has not changed since I started going there, and I really don’t mind. It has a warm, lived-in feel that I enjoy being around. The bar near the door has a partial view of the harbor, and the booths inside are comfortable and covered in clean white linens.


Since it was just me and Matt, I restrained myself from ordering the huge Appetizer Combo (onion rings, Buffalo wings and potato skins) that my sisters and I love. We just decided to share a small Caesar Salad which was actually big enough for the two of us to start our meal with.



Matt- who is frustrated by the lack of beef hotdogs in Manila- is always excited to see when beef hotdogs are on the menu. He opted for the classic Chicago Dog, which is an all-beef hotdog in a soft bun topped with fresh onions, pickle relish and tomatoes, accompanied by a small bowl of chili and coleslaw.



Famished, I decided to go all-out and went for a half slab of the Baby Back Ribs with a side of fries and coleslaw. In my opinion, this is one of the very few restaurants outside the US who can do this dish right. A lot of the American chains in Manila serve baby back ribs, but for some reason they’re mostly bland and dry. Dan Ryan’s ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, moist and perfectly smoky and tasty. The sauce has a wonderful balance of mildly sweet and savory, with the deep and musky aromas of spices and dried peppers. Not nearly as good as the best baby back ribs I have tasted, but this one is more than decent.

I would have loved to keep coming back to this restaurant during our trip, but I had to control myself in order to make room for the many others that we wanted to try. Aside from the good food, it just brings me back to simpler times- when my sisters, cousins and I would trek down the long corridor of Ocean Terminal with our grandparents to Toys ‘R Us; Walking to Tony Mak’s electronics store with my dad to buy our first Nintendo console; and, after a long day of shopping, just huddling in our hotel room with my sisters and cousin, Tons, to eat Sweet and Sour Pork, Cream of Mushroom Soup and Fresh Strawberries with Whipped Cream while we ordered movies from the hotel’s pay-per-view. Those were truly one of the best times, and its wonderful how food can somehow help you remember.



Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill
3/F Ocean Terminal
Harbour City
Kowloon, Hong KongTel. no. (852)27356111

Sumo-Sized Goodness

Friends and fellow-foodies, married couple Sanj and Cutie, told me and Matt about this place in Little Tokyo serving Sumo Stew called Chankonabe (thanks, Noel). Literally, it is stew served to sumo wrestlers in Japan which pretty much covers all the essentials in a person’s diet. Coupled with a sizeable amount of beer, this stew is what keeps these colossal athletes on top of their game.

Initially, the plan was for Sanj and Matt to play a few sets of squash before meeting Cutie, Cookie Goddess, and I for some Sumo Stew at Sekitori. Unfortunately, Matt had a toothache and was not feeling very “athletic”, so we decided to postpone our date. After feeling the initial hunger pangs signaling dinner, I decided a cancelled squash game should not stop us from having our fix of Sumo Stew. Therefore, Sanj, Cutie, Matt and I went ahead and met in Little Tokyo to have some sumo-sized soup.

After dumping our car on the first passable parking slot along Pasong Tamo, we proceeded to Sekitori which is right on the mouth of Little Tokyo’s entrance. Like other restaurants in this area, the ambience is very relaxed and almost artisanal. There is a small room with a glass window near the kitchen where a man is making udon (thick wheat-flour noodles) the traditional way. We are ushered towards the back of the resto where our friends were already sitting on a slightly elevated platform with some low tables.



Sanj already ordered our Sumo Stew and picked out the broth it will be cooked in. You can choose from three different flavors of broth: regular, miso and kimchi. We opted for the last one since Sanj and Cutie say it is their favorite among the three. We also had a few orders of sushi (uni and saba) and some Takoyaki made by this man from Osaka in a stall outside. The sushi was very fresh and the Takoyaki delicious, much better than the commercial ones you find in malls.



Our waitress then comes in with a hot pot and a mountain of ingredients for the stew. According to Sanj, this is actually a small portion compared to the actual stew that sumo wrestlers consume. And it was enough for the four of us to share! As I took pictures, I noticed the group of Japanese diners smiling in amusement at my dropped jaw (or they could just be smiling for the picture). The amount of vegetables, meat and seafood we were about to consume was truly an awesome sight for me.




The waitress proceeds to cooking the stew on our table as we finish off our starters and down some sake. She cooks the vegetables, meat and seafood first, and then when all of that is served, she then cooks the udon. Judging by the smell, I knew the broth was going to be a winner.



And it was. The kimchi flavor was not overpowering and too spicy. It was a perfect balance of flavors and strong aromas, backed up by a nice and pleasant kick. I happily slurped it up with the vegetables, seafood, and meatballs.



When we have been served the first portion of the stew, the waitress started cooking the udon. I love udon above all other Japanese noodles so I was very excited to try Sekitori’s “homemade” ones. Thankfully, the wait was not in vain as the thick, slippery noodles slithered into my mouth. There was a little bit of resistance as I bit into them, which is how really good udon should be- not too soft, and definitely not mushy. I ate way too many bowls of this.

This was a most enjoyable meal for me, surely something new and different. I promised Cookie Goddess that we shall return with her, and I am looking forward to it. We ended the night in true “Salaryman” style and had a few drinks at Bugsy’s, the new “neighborhood bar” at Salcedo Village. A few shots of Burn Bugsy Burn (for Cutie and I) and bottles of San Mig Light (for the boys) later, we were ready to call it a night. As I fell into my alcohol-induced coma, I was still thinking of that stew and those delicious strings of udon.






Sekitori
Little Tokyo
Pasong Tamo Ave.
Makati City

Pasta for Every-Juan

When Luigi A. calls me for a favor, I don’t say “no”. We have been buddies since my college days because I was very good friends with his sisters (and his entire family, for that matter) and we all used to hang out a lot. This guy is probably one of the nicest, friendliest most fun people I know. So, when he asks, I say “yes”.

Ok, maybe I agreed to meet up with him also because there would be pasta involved. I love pasta in all its forms and sizes. Cream, oil, tomato sauce… Heck, I’m up for it. Since Luigi is doing PR for Pizza Hut, he asked me if I would want to have a tasting of their new Pasta Perfetto range of pastas. Do I? It’s almost like he never knew me.

After two months of planning, we finally agreed to meet at the Pizza Hut branch in super busy Megamall. Honestly, I have not eaten in Pizza Hut in years, simply because I prefer the thinner, crisper crusts of other chains. Once in a while though, I would get drawn in by their banners advertizing big, generous toppings and chunky crusts loaded with cheese.

This time around, it was all about the pasta. Luigi introduced me to Edgar who is the Marketing Manager for the Pizza Hut Franchise in the Philippines. The hard-working dynamo went on to give me a blow-by-blow account of how the pastas were developed and the training that their staff had to undergo to be able to execute this new product perfectly.

Aside from the pastas that Edgar made me try, we also had some starters of Cream of Chicken Soup and Mango Shrimp Salad. The soup, as expected, was nothing special. It tasted like it came out of a can. The salad, though, was surprisingly good. The dressing was creamy and the vegetables cool and crisp.

Another appetizer was the Chicken Wings. The meat was juicy and the wings themselves were big. Unfortunately, the glaze was pretty bland.

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After the mediocre start, I was eager to move on to the pastas. First to be brought out was the Chicken Pesto Penne. The tubular pasta was perfectly al dente, the pesto was creamy and fragrant. I enjoyed it so much that I ordered it again at another branch. The second one I tried was not as good as the one cooked in the Megamall branch, and I think that this would be the problem of this particular chain. According to Edgar, the pasta chefs are trained for several months, capped-off by a “final exam” wherein they have to cook all pasta recipes by memory in front of a panel. Although this gives Pizza Hut’s pastas a more upscale restaurant feel, the issue of consistency will be their biggest challenge. Despite rigorous training, I believe that it would be difficult to replicate the exact same recipe for the hundreds of Pizza Hut branches in the Philippines. But then again, I would love to be wrong.

The next pasta that was served was the Three-cheese Ravioli. At first I was put-off by the overflowing sauce, but later appreciated it since it was so tasty and garlicky. I wish I had some bread to sop it all up with! I also liked the filling which was smooth and cheesy.

Served with pride was the Seafood Supremo Pasta- linguine with seafood, tomatoes, capers in a light cream sauce, wrapped in parchment paper and then baked. The result is a rich and aromatic dish which is hearty enough for two. Luigi proclaimed this to be his favorite, and I can see why, despite the fact that I am not a fan of seafood pasta dishes. The flavors were truly intensified by the baking process which adds a special touch, something you would not normally see at this price point.

Dessert came in the form of a Baked Bread Pudding. Interestingly enough, the texture of the dish is closer to a cinnamon roll than the bread pudding that I am more accustomed to. I pointed this out to Edgar and he disclosed that the “bread” that they use is- surprise, surprise- pizza crust. Hence, the slight gumminess and bite in the middle, which is characteristic of pizza crust done right. Will I order this dish again? Probably not. Is it an inventive and cost-effective way of disposing of extra pizza dough? Definitely.


Although I usually reserve my pasta intake for really special meals (now that I have to watch my carb intake)- or those days when I’m feeling crappy and would like to pamper myself with a steaming bowl of homemade spaghetti- Pizza Hut’s Pasta Perfetto is a great addition to the food chain’s tried and tested menu dominated by pizzas. This valiant effort by the restaurant giant- although not quite perfetto yet- is definitely commendable and is surely making a lot of pasta lovers very happy.



Note: Thanks to Luigi and Edgar for treating me to dinner.

A Case of Good Eats Versus Good Deals

My love affair with food writing stemmed naturally from my appreciation for good food and restaurants. I remember sitting in a favorite eatery, having a great meal, and thinking, “OMG… Everyone in the universe should try this!” I remember Cookie Goddess telling me years ago, “You should start a food blog.” Since I have always been “technically-challenged”, the concept of blogging seemed as foreign to me as Brazilian waxing must be to gorillas. But eventually, fueled by love for food and eating out, I started writing restaurant reviews on my site in multiply.com. After developing a modest following, I finally decided to start a “proper” blog. Despite the initial struggles which accompanied my maiden voyage into “techie-dom”, I was able to set up a food blog which I continue to maintain up to this day.

One of my first ever restaurant reviews was about a small restaurant in Yakal St. called Bianca’s Café and Vinotek. This Werdenberg- owned restaurant was a favorite spot for “business lunches” with my parents when I was fresh out of college and getting a feel for the so-called “real world”. I favored their set menu wherein you get to choose one appetizer and a main course, for only a few hundred pesos. When we started going there in 2000, the set menu was priced at P350. This was not bad at all, considering their hearty portions and an obvious preference for top-notch ingredients. Their house pours are also very reasonably-priced at P100-120 a glass, and these are pretty decent New World wines. Unfortunately, the owners decided to change the concept of the restaurant, opting to serve only Swiss cuisine, no longer the former eclectic mix of continental and European dishes. Out of all the restaurants in Manila, the old Bianca’s is the one I miss the most. Nothing has ever come close to it in terms of value for money and quality.



I longed for it even more after a visit to The Gustavian at the new Eastwood Mall when a business meeting brought me to the area. Looking at its Continental menu, it really reminded me of the Bianca’s I frequented almost a decade ago. Hearty stews, steaks, cold cuts… the selection was a mix of European favorites. What was most alluring to me, though, was their set menu comprising of an appetizer, main course and dessert worth P390++. My eyes bulge out and I palpitate. Have I found a worthy replacement to my beloved Bianca’s? I knew I had to find out for myself and immediately asked for a table.

The décor is undeniably Old World with the high ceilings, white textured walls and dark wood. The restaurant is named after Sweden’s Crown Prince Gustav III and pays homage to the 18th-century monarch’s love for fine French Cuisine. Why the name? I have no idea. The owners (the Cebuano Lhuilliers) look European, but I don’t think they’re Swedish. Anyway, it sounds good, so why not?



My companion and I decided to order from their set menu, which was quite comprehensive with three or four choices per category. We both decided to start with salads- she had the Caesar Salad, and I ordered the Beef Medallions with Chilled Ratatouille. For a starter, the portions were a bit small, but passable. Execution suffered a bit though, but I blame that on budget constraints.



For my main course, I ordered the Fried Sole Fillet with Lemon Risotto. After the diminutive first course, I surprised to see the huge slice of fish topped with more of the ratatouille. The risotto was drier than what I am used to, but it was cooked al dente and not mushy at all. Overall, this was a decent dish.



The other main course was a Sole and Salmon Paupiette in Beurre Blanc with Rice Pilaf. Again, this was another good-sized dish and the sauce was pretty tasty.



For dessert, they only had one for the day- A Mango Crepe with Grand Marnier. You can taste the licqeur which soaked the crepes perfectly, complimented by the sweet Philippine mangoes. I liked this dessert because it was satisfying and yet not too heavy and rich.

So, is The Gustavian the new Bianca’s? Based on this visit, not even close. I blame it on the pricing, though. For P390++, even the most highly-skilled chefs would not be able to whip up a meal with the same quality as Bianca’s, in my opinion. If I’m not mistaken, the set menu at Bianca’s was at P590 per head before they changed their concept. And this was at least three years ago. Personally, I believe that the clientele who have a preference for old-school European country cooking would be willing to shell out a few extra bucks as long as they are presented with better quality food. Right now, I get the impression that The Gustavian is trying to reach out to the working class that frequent the area. I say forget it: Focus on high-quality ingredients and classical cooking techniques to come up with world-class cuisine. Leave the budget meals to the Jollibee group- you’ll never beat them anyway. As the ghost of Jim Morrison told Wayne in Wayne’s World 2, “If you build it, they will come”.

Believe me, they always do. And if The Gustavian’s set menus become as good (or even better) than Bianca’s, I surely will.



The Gustavian
Ground Level Eastwood Mall
Eastwood City
Libis, Q.C.Tel.no. +639179853429