Winner By Knockout

I don’t like it when people mess around with Filipino food.

By “messing around”, I mean the current invasion of “modern Filipino cuisine” wherein Kare-Kare is deconstructed, Laing is turned into pasta sauce and Sisig becomes a pizza topper. I like my Pinoy food cooked the way it should be, or at least the way Filipino mothers, lolas and kusineras all over the country make them. This means that Kare-kare is slow-cooked in its peanut-based sauce until the ox tail is jiggling about like Jello, gabi leaves are simmered in coconut milk and sili to make Laing, later to be served with steamed rice, while the enigmatic pork parts that go into Sisig are happily sizzling away on an iron plate.

When a craving for Pinoy food hits me, I rarely go out to eat, more so now that the classic Filipino restaurants of my childhood are just not as good as they used to be. There are a few though, such as the late Larry Cruz’s Bistro Remedios, which continue to dish out exemplary regional dishes.

One weekday lunch, my Tita P and I decided to make the quick drive from our office to the Malate restaurant. Despite it being a Lenten Friday, we were dead-set on ordering the specialty of the house (and most of Larry C.’s establishments),which is their version of Crispy Pata called Knockout Knuckles- deep-fried crispy pork knuckles topped with a fragrant garlic sauce, accompanied by the usual soy sauce with vinegar and onions.

After being ushered into the bright and cheery dining room- reminiscent of the old houses in the provinces- we quickly ordered a cheekily-named appetizer called Ipusit Mo Baby (baby squid fried to a crisp) and Adobong Balut (battered duck embryos cooked adobo-style). Those went so fast I wasn’t even able to take pictures.

Tita P and I were given a few minutes to digest after we wolfed-down the starters before the main dishes were sent in. For our viands we chose, of course, the knuckles and the Binukadkad na Crispy Plapla, which I know sounds pornographic but is really just deep-fried butterflied Tilapia.

The Knockout Knuckles were as decadent and sumptuous as I remember it- the flesh was juicy and fork-tender, topped by a layer of fat which melts in your mouth, the skin bubbling and crisp, enhanced by the softly-wafting aroma of slow-cooked garlic. Although the garlic topping is something not commonly found in most Crispy Pata recipes, this is one preparation that I have to admit is pure genius.

Our meal was accompanied by a simple siding of Ensaladang Talong (grilled eggplant, sliced tomatoes and onions with a vinegar sauce) and a generous serving of Bamboo Rice. A common practice in Southern Philippines, rice is cooked inside a stick of bamboo, in this case, with some shredded chicken and shitake mushrooms. The result is a densely-packed, flavorful rice dish which goes perfectly with, well, everything.

We gave a valiant effort at finishing the whole meal which would sufficiently feed four, but gave-up when we could no longer suck in our stomachs under our tightening shirts. After having the remains of our meal wrapped, we ordered some dessert: Claude’s Dream for me (buko pandan jelly and young coconut on buffalo milk ice cream) and Gula Melaka (tapioca served with palm sugar and coco cream) for Tita P (who looked like she had a fist-full of Xanax at this point). The desserts were just alright for me, not really worth the extra calories. I can imagine how some people would like them, though.

This Malate institution is truly the jewel of the LJC group of restaurants, proving that the classics only need minor tweaking (or none at all) to be made extraordinary. As the saying goes, “If it ain’t broke, why fix it?”

Bistro Remedios
Adriatico St.
Malate, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 5239153

What's Up With Wagyu?

I never understood the hype over Wagyu beef. Yes, I have salivated over the insane marbling of these special steaks from Kobe, Japan and have enjoyed first-hand as the combination of grilled beef meat and fat easily melted in my mouth. But then, really, there’s more to top-quality steak than just marbling, right? Although I’m far from being a knowledgeable butcher, I know that the best steakhouses also wet or dry-age their steaks to enhance tenderness and flavor.

When it comes to steak, I normally go for the more western-style preparation, which is mildly seasoned and grilled ‘til perfectly medium. Just to give you an idea of what “floats my boat”- I habitually fantasize about the NY Strip at Fleming’s, the Porterhouse at Peter Luger’s and the Chateaubriand at Pinot inside The Venetian Las Vegas. The best steaks- in my world at least- are thick with bright pink centers and charred on the outside by charcoal or wood. So, when I check the menu at Japanese restaurants and see the zeros on the prices of thinly-sliced Wagyu yakiniku or cubed teppanyaki, I can’t help but raise an eyebrow and ask, “Is it really worth it?”

I was able to find some answers when an exciting and new writing gig brought me and Matt to Century Tsukiji for lunch. After being seated at our smoking area table (which reminded me of those claustrophobic smoking areas in airports, but without the insidious cloud of cigarette smoke), I quickly ordered their 10-pc. Sushi set and flipped through their other pages for the rest of our lunch spread.

First to arrive, naturally, was the platter of Assorted Sushi. Matt- who is normally not a big fan of wasabi but has learned to love raw fish- gobbled this up in an instant. The seafood was very fresh and obviously of the best quality. We sipped Miso Soup with this, which could have been a bit warmer.

Matt’s Beef Fried Rice came next and was quickly followed by the Assorted Tempura. I feasted on the huge pieces of deep-fried and battered Ebi (prawn) while Matt had the Kisu (fish fillet) and vegetables. The fried rice was a bit bland for my taste, preferring mine to be heavy on soy sauce and butter, reminiscent of our childhood meals at Takayama. For some reason I never outgrew that.

Finally, a sizzling plate was brought out topped by a serving of Wagyu Sirloin Steak cooked teppanyaki style- cut into inch-sized cubes and cooked over a teppan table (like a griddle) with some butter, soy sauce and pepper, accompanied by a side of vegetables prepared the same way. I popped a cube in my mouth and was momentarily stunned by how tender the beef was. Having been exposed to the more readily-available local Wagyu and Snakeriver Wagyu, I almost forgot how soft and buttery authentic Japanese Wagyu really is. It was so delicate that I would have liked it more if there were less garlic flakes or none at all.

While Matt and I had some of their homemade ice cream, I asked him which part of the meal he enjoyed the most. While he admits that he would need two more servings of the assorted sushi to completely satisfy him, he said that it was the best part of our lunch. I agreed with him completely.

How, for the love of God, could we not have fallen under the spell of Wagyu’s unsurpassable tenderness? Have I programmed my mind to only enjoy steak with wine, making my Japanese steak lunch a notch below perfection? (While we're at it, maybe someone can tell me which wine is good with teppanyaki steak.) Is Matt’s Teutonic heritage making him incapable of enjoying the subtler flavors of the East? Am I over-analyzing this?

I must be, because I honestly think that it really is just a matter of taste. I enjoy the smoky, masculine aroma of huge slabs of beef being grilled over a fire, its outer layer crispy from when the flame flared up as a result of dripping liquid fat. I have this vision of cowboys gathered around a campfire, their tomahawk steaks glistening against the setting dessert sun as a pot of beans boils away beside them. That, to me at least, is what a steak should be.

But, then again, what about a 20-ounce Wagyu porterhouse, grilled to perfection over an outdoor grill? Now that’s a different story.

Century Tsukiji
Century Park Hotel
P. Ocampo St.
Malate, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 5285907

I Know Its Summer When...

... My face is so shiny Matt uses it as a rearview mirror.



… My dad gets all excited and starts buying random stuff for the beach house, like volleyball nets and colorful picnic baskets.



… We ignore all warnings of strong amihan (northeast winds) and head out to the beach anyway. We are all so traumatized by the scary boat ride home that we swear to take the weather news from our caretaker more seriously.

… We find random excuses to go to the beach. In this case, our best man Basti was in town and needed a tan. Badly.


… I cannot fight the urge to stock up on Spanish white wine and Homenaje Rosado (the ones that Noel DID NOT buy).



… Foxychef finds new and inventive ways of keeping our tummies bulging over our boardshorts. Like, when we bought a sack of clams from a local fisherman and she decided to cook some of it in tons of butter and cheese. And, yes, it was good.


… Happy hour starts at 9 in the morning.


… Matt gets his annual Zit-on-the-Forehead.



… Everyone is in a good mood and finds humor in everything.


… I’m too lazy to do anything and use shortcuts to perform tasks. Hence, this list.

Quick Bites: Hing Fat Tea House (Hong Kong)

After our substantial seafood lunch at Lamma Island, we took the ferry back to Central and did some shopping. After a quick pit stop at Lux in Lan Kwai Fong (an area in Hong Kong that is world-renowned for its night life), our tummies were once again signaling us for a refill. Too tired to think and feeling grimy from all that walking, I- along with Foxychef, Beersponge and Juggies (my parents have already gone back to the hotel), decided to take the MTR back to Tsim Sha Tsui, head straight to the hotel and order room service.

From the station, we were walking towards Canton Road when Foxychef spotted the assortment or restaurants and bars in Ashley Road. We stopped in front of a small teahouse where there was a glistening combination of roasted meats hanging behind their glass window. We did not even have to think since our stomachs made the decision for us. We immediately walk into the busy dining room and order.

The dining room of Hing Fat was typical of any Hong Kong tea house: walls plastered with pictures of the house specialties (in this case, everything in the menu was on display), the lighting severe, the decors simple and utilitarian.

First to arrive was the Roast Pork. We were so hungry that we dove into it before our fried rice arrives. The skin was crispy with a good blistery top, like a perfectly-cooked lechon kawali. The meat was so tender and flavorful that I did not find myself looking for the sauce.

Next up was our order of one-half Roast Goose. Again, it was perfectly roasted and flavorful, the considerable layer of fat under the skin ensuring the mouth-watering moistness of the meat. There’s really nothing left to say.

To balance out our heart attack-inducing meal, we ordered some Broccoli with Garlic and Red Peppers, along with several pots of complimentary hot tea.

We loved this place so much that we took my parents here after Sunday mass. My dad, a big fan of Cantonese food, had nothing but good things to say about the dishes that we ordered. Also a horse-racing aficionado, he was more than pleased when the manager was kind enough to switch to the horse-racing channel so that he can catch the Mercedes Benz Derby Trials in Sha Tin on the flat screen in front of us. In my dad’s world, that meal could not have gotten any better.

Hing Fat Tea House
Ashley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Hong Kong, China

Hong Kong, Day 2: Lamma Island

My head still heavy from the partying we did the night before, I forced myself out of bed for lunch. My sister Foxychef has arranged a seafood lunch at Lamma Island and was insistent that we still forge ahead with the plan, despite the bad hangovers. So, at breakfast, I down my favorite day-after remedy (an ice-cold Coke Light) and get on the ferry to Central.

From Central, my group (Me, Foxychef, Beersponge, Juggies and my parents) took another 35-minute ferry ride to the island’s Sok Kwu Wan port where Foxychef’s brochure told us we’ll find the row of seafood restaurants. Despite the fog and dismal weather, the hydrofoil ride was mostly smooth, with the occasional side-slap from medium-sized waves.

Lamma Island is the third largest land mass after Hong Kong and Kowloon and has become popular with both locals and tourists for their fresh seafood. As we approached the dock at Sok Kwu Wan, we saw the shore which is dotted with “fish cages” and lined with several restaurants. It reminds me of our local “Sea Side” wherein you buy seafood from the market and then bring your purchases to one of the restaurant for them to be cooked as you preferred.

As we got off the boat, our complaining stomachs led us to the first restaurant on the row- Rainbow Seafood. We were immediately welcomed by Bryan, who seemed to be either the head waiter or resident English speaker of the establishment.

He showed seafood experts Foxychef and company their live fish and crustaceans in tanks and baskets, while I was mesmerized by their see-through fridge stocked with a pretty decent selection of white wines.

We got a table on their expansive veranda by the sea and Bryan promised to take care of how our food was going to be prepared.

First to arrive were the Szechuan Bamboo Clams. The tubular clams were tender with a bit of a bite, a pleasant sea taste coming through the mildly spicy sauce.

Quick to follow were the Scallops and Clams prepared the same way- steamed with vermicelli, garlic and scallions. The beauty of this dish is in its simplicity, the garlic mellowed out by the steaming and effectively eliminating any fishyness from the shellfish.

Next was a lobster-relative called squilla, deep-fried and sprinkled with crispy noodles, garlic and chillies. It had a tender and juicy texture similar to our pitik or horseshoe crab. I liked the crispy, salty topping.

Right after that was the lobster prepared the same way as the scallops and clams. By this time I was growing tired of all the garlic, and after the squilla, the lobster meat seemed tougher by comparison. I can’t complain, though: it was still fresh lobster that was very well-prepared.

Finally, we were served the Steamed Fish which was sliced and then stir-fried in vegetables and green peppers. It was a simple dish and could have been outstanding if not for the overload of pungent aromas and strong flavors which preceded it.

Since I was in the company of beer drinkers, I had almost an entire bottle of wine to myself. Out of the restaurant’s fridge, I picked out a Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2005 from Marlborough, New Zealand. I have always been partial to Sauvignon Blancs from this region, enjoying the pleasant gooseberries its generally bright and crisp character. I was surprised that this particular Sav Blanc is almost buttery and with a pronounced oakiness- a characteristic more common with Chardonnays. I read somewhere that this particular Cloudy Bay sav blanc has had some considerable time in the barrel, which gives it that rounder, burlier character.

Personally, I found this odd. Why make a Sauvignon Blanc taste like a chard? Oh well, I suppose some people are into that, but I prefer my New Zealand Sav blancs done the traditional way.

It was a good lunch enjoyed by all, even non-seafood lovers like myself. The service was great since we were the only ones there, and none of that frantic craziness I usually associate with waiters in Hong Kong. Must be the island vibe.

Some Darn Good Beer (Or At Least The Ones I Like)

I used to drink a lot of beer in college. But for some reason, the older I got, the harder it was for me to drink it. If back in the day I could down four to six bottles before I got significantly inebriated, these days two would be enough. Not “enough” in the sense that I have that nice, tingling buzz, but more like I-have-a-giant-rock-in-my-stomach kind of feeling.

Recently, though, I have discovered some beers that I enjoy drinking. Hamburg-native Matt introduced me to Warsteiner when we started dating several years ago. We spotted a limited supply of the German pilsner in Rustan’s and we grabbed a few bottles for me to taste. It was ok, kind of like our local San Miguel.

Later on, he made me try another German import: Weissbier or wheat beer. That one I liked. A lot. The cloudy, golden liquid smells great and is light and fruity on the palate. Mickey’s- a german deli along Jupiter Street- brings in an assortment of these wheat beers, although some brands are not always available. When they have my favorites though (like Paulaner or Franziskaner), you can count on me being there munching on Neurnbergers and my nose buried in the thick, white foam on top of a pilsner glass.

Our trips to Hong Kong have also introduced me to a wide variety of beers from all over the world. City Super- our favorite grocery in Harbour City, Kowloon- offers a plethora of choices, and brews are not an exception. I have noticed that their beer selection is more diverse than their assortment of wine, so I usually gravitate towards the former when I am there.

One of my favorites is Fischer Blonde from Alsace, France, a small city (Note: Actually, its a region in France. Thanks, Cosmopolicious, for the correction.) right on the German border. A crisp, high-alcohol pilsner, Fischer has a nice fruity aroma and a light flavor with almost no bitter after-taste. Maybe I unconsciously associate it with Alsatian wines which I favor, so I enjoy it more because it has a “wine-y” character to it. Plus, it does not give me that “heavy” feeling I sometimes get with wheat beer. I wanted to know what regular beer drinkers thought of this wine, so I checked it out on-line. True enough, some beer fans complained of it not being “too hop-y” or “tasting flat”. Uncannily, the same characteristics that got me hooked on Fischer in the first place. Interesting to note, though: I noticed that those who had an intense dislike (to put it more delicately) for this particular type of beer were mostly British.

Another beer that my sister Foxychef discovered on our recent trip was Grimbergen Blonde. An authentic abbey beer from Belgium, this particular brand has been around for 900 years. There is a whole lot of tradition behind this, for sure. Not noticing its 6% alcohol content, I was initially deceived by its diminutive container. The flavor, too, will have you drinking this very (and I mean VERY) fast. The color is bright and golden, with a delicious aroma of apples and caramel. Thinking about it now makes me wish that I brought some home. Or at least drank the rest of my sister’s bottle when she was not looking.

Hong Kong, Day 1: Chill Night... Yeah Right!

Depressed by the thought of being left behind by my sister’s family (especially my adorable niece, Nana) when they took off for New York, my dad decided that it was time for another trip to Hong Kong.

We as a family love that city. When we were kids, we would go there in the summer or during “sem break” with our Lolo Meo, Lola Nena, Titos, Titas and cousins. I remember trekking down the long corridor from our hotel to Toys R US at Ocean Terminal in Kowloon with my sisters and cousins, then lugging back our purchases to our room where we would feast on fried chicken, mushroom soup and strawberries with whipped cream.

Hong Kong’s charm for me is that it is exotic and exciting as any foreign city, yet I have established a cozy familiarity with the place which is comfortable and relaxing. After trips to Toys R Us have been abandoned for more grown-up activities, it still continues to deliver all kinds of thrilling escapades which I constantly look forward to. Thankfully, this particular trip did not fail to deliver.

As we- My parents, sister Foxychef and I- checked into our favorite hotel (the Marco Polo Hongkong) on Canton Road, we were told that we were going to be given an upgrade to a Harborview Deluxe Room. This was wonderful news, since anyone who has been to Hong Kong would know that the views from Kowloon of the skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island are quite stunning. If you sit on the Star Ferry pier at around 8 PM, you would be able to catch a captivating lights and sounds show that showcases the architectural masterpieces on the other side of the harbor.




We met Foxychef’s friends, Beersponge and Juggies, for a late lunch at Crystal Jade Xiao Long Bao Restaurant at Harbour City. As always, we then headed to City Super where we stocked up on snacks and, ehem, beverages. I wish we could have supermarkets in Manila like this, where there are several choices of gourmet and deli products. On our last day, Foxychef went to town on it by grabbing bottles of dry herbs and spices, condiments and cooking tools.


As we attempted to think conservatively, we decided to just chill in the room with our drinks and snacks, reserving our energy and funds to “fight another day”, so to speak. After all, we had enough drinks in our pantry to last us through the night. But, as in any random drinking spree, events could always take an unexpected turn.





A few beers and a bottle of wine after, our group decided to take a cab to Knutsford Terrace on Kimberly Road. We found a table at Que Pasa, a Mexican and Spanish restaurant at the ground floor of Knutsford Plaza. I ordered a Reposado Margarita on the rocks, Foxychef and Beersponge ordered their beers, and for Juggies- a “jug” of Strawberry Margarita, which we were only too happy to help her with.

And then, the craziness began.

For your viewing pleasure, some pictures from a nearby club called All Night Long…