Let the Sunshine Through

Girls who do not eat are very foreign to me. I respect their choice—they obviously prefer to look good in skinny jeans over indulging in a cheesy, carb-y pizza, and that’s ok. Once in a while I do catch myself admiring their lithe physiques and hoping that I, too, can fit into those tiny size-2 dresses. But I made my choice, and I chose to eat well. Therefore, I will live with the results, which is the “junk in my trunk.”

But the ladies of Sunshine Kitchen are freaks of nature—they cook and eat delicious, rich comfort food without gaining an inch around their mid-sections. From the lovely chefs (co-owner Tanya and my baby sister, Sansan) to the bubbly part owners, all of the ladies involved look great in their sexy denim cut-offs. Don’t be fooled though—these hotties know their food.
 

When I eat at Sunshine Kitchen, I like to prep my stomach with one of their healthy salads. Their dressings—such as the Mediterranean Salad’s red wine vinaigrette—are light yet flavorful.

The pizzas here can definitely give those of the surrounding establishments a run for their money. The crust is thin and crisp, but with a bit of a bite. Old-school, Neapolitan-style. My favorites are the Cristal’s Choice, which is their version of the pizza Napolitana. But for something that is uniquely SK, go for the Sunshine Pizza—garlicky Cabanatuan longganisa, juicy porchetta, peppery arugula, topped with a runny egg. A spattering of yolk adds just enough richness to an already decadent dish. Not for the calorie-counting, but then again, you only live once.

Matt the chicken lover swears by their Fried Chicken. Crisp, juicy and flavorful, it has all the winning components. Their gravy is what I imagine good Southern-style cooking must be. Creamy and rich, but not overtly so.

Another bestseller is the Longganisa Paella. The dominant flavors are classic Spanish, but with familiar flavors of local sausage and eggs. Very festive and perfect for sharing.

Their lust-worthy Porchetta is served with rice pilaf and French beans. This, along with their pizzas, is what will set this establishment apart from all the trendy grub spots in the metro. The skin is chicharon-level crunchy, and the moist pork is soft and perfectly-seasoned. Everyone from husky males to Cohen-cheating waifs swear by it.

Sunshine Kitchen also makes their own ice cream, and one time I got to try their Key Lime Pie Ice Cream. And that is exactly what you taste when you have a spoonful. A cool touch would be the sweetened breadcrumbs that add texture for a well-rounded dessert. It’s an ideal place for pretty much everything—from quiet brunches, to power lunches, to boisterous family dinners. Or just come by when you want to be cheered up by some straightforward, delicious food.



Sunshine Kitchen
2/F Fort Pointe Building (near Urbn)
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Mobile no. 0929-8139775

Quick Bites: La Nuova Pasteleria's Profumo di Tartufo

Recently, I was half-heartedly watching an interview with legendary fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg on TV while the hubby was distracted with his fantasy basketball league on the iPad.  As she luxuriated on her plush couch, dressed in one of her coveted wrap dresses, she said something that deeply resonated with me and caught my attention.  When asked by the British interviewer what it was- with the organized chaos brought about by astronomical success- that kept her sane, she imparts: “Solitude.  Sometimes, we owe it to ourselves to just be alone.”   

            In this frenetic, modern lifestyle, we have taken huge pains to stay connected and be constantly “in the loop” with whatever new gadget that does the job fastest (and makes you look cool while doing it).  But despite the constant need to be in touch with each other, there is that little voice that says when you need a little time on your own.  Just be still and quiet, allow yourself to clear your mind.  Or think.  Whatever it is that you feel you need to do for yourself.  Even as a young girl, I cherished these moments alone where I am allowed to dream and wish and wonder.  And now, when the young girl’s daydreams are replaced with harsh realities, these little pockets of solitude are all the more precious. 

            Last weekend, I spent some of this sacred alone time with a plate of Profumo di Tartufo at La Nouva Pasteleria- a mountainous pile of tagliatelle in truffle-perfumed cream sauce and porcini mushrooms, topped with wide films of prosciutto.  That rich cream, coupled with the dense earthiness of the mushrooms and the heady aroma of truffles, acted like a healing elixir for my soul.  I tear off a little piece of ham as I roll the wide, flat pasta around my fork, and it imparts just the right amount of salty, porky flavor to an already highly immoral dish.  I derived so much pleasure from it that, as I sat there alone, I was wishing that I had someone to share it with.

            And enough for two, it truly was.  I wrapped the remnants of the pasta and hurried home, feeling revived, my mind clear.  I felt it in my bones that I was ready for a fresh week and the new experiences it will bring.  Watching Matt scarf down the other half of the Profumo di Tartufo, hearing his grunts of approval (punctuated by the occasional commending profanity)- I count my blessings:  I am only alone when I choose to be.

La Nuova Pasteleria

G/F San Antonio Plaza

McKinley Rd., Forbes Park

Makati City

Tel. no. (632) 867 2370

Food Trip USA: My Top 5 Restaurants at The Wynn Las Vegas

Its a sure win at the Wynn and Encore restaurants

Oh, Las Vegas- the town of excess and debauchery.  A weekend in Vegas is more than enough to leave you mentally, physically and financially spent.  So, when we found out that we were spending two whole weeks in Sin City to celebrate a dear uncle’s birthday, even PartyMatt found himself scratching his head, saying, “What the f_ck are we going to do there for two weeks?!”

But, we did find plenty to do, and amidst the blur of clubs,tequila shots, and lap dances, we found plenty of good things to eat.  Our group was billeted at The Wynn, which in my opinion, is the best hotel on the strip, along with its “twin”, Encore.  Owner Steve Wynn‘s impeccable taste is evident in everything you lay your eyes on- from the natural light streaming into the casino floor, to the pricey bed linens in the tastefully-decorated rooms, to the best clubs and entertainment in Vegas. 

However, this attention to detail was best expressed in bothThe Wynn’s and Encore’s restaurants.  I can tell that his restos were conceptualized from the ground up by the bestguys and girls in the industry, and no expense was spared.  The food was so good that we felt there was really no need to leave the hotel and explore.

From more than a dozen restaurants in these two hotels combined, here are my favorites.

The dining room at Sinatra

Sinatra

On the last evening of our two week sojourn, Matt and I decided to have a cozy dinner date here and we discovered that we did save the best for last.  This beautiful restaurant was the perfect homage to the blue-eyed Las Vegas icon for which it was named after, and the food- classic Italian, of course- was made to impress.  

Agnolotti

Dinner service was flawless, but the winning dish was, without a doubt, the Agnolotti in a light cream asparagus sauce- so delicate but with the perfect balance of flavors.  Overall, one of our most memorable dining experiences.

Diver Scallops on top of polenta at La Cave

La cave

Tucked in one of The Wynn’s corridors is this little (by LasVegas standards, at least) wine bar that serves a limited but very tasty menu-a mishmash of great seafood, flatbreads and tapas.  Its cavern-like atmosphere is perfect for a sexy rendezvous, but also great as a laidback venue for dinner and drinks.  I have seen more expansive wine lists elsewhere, although they do have some gems. Plus, there are some good beers on tap, as well as craft beers- such as the Quebecois legend La Fin du Monde by Unibroue.

We adored the flatbreads- topped with either chorizo or truffled mushrooms- but what really grabbed my attention was the Seared Diver Scallops and Polenta, which had me coming back a second and third time. 

The view from the al fresco dining area at The Country Club

The Country Club

The Wynn boasts of the only 18-hole golf course in a casino hotel- in Las Vegas, at least.  And to get to the course, you pass through a gorgeous, wood-paneled dining room that evokes the feel of a members-only golf club. The fine dining resto offers prime cuts of steak, as well as upscale versions of American classics, like Sweet Corn chowder and Angus burgers. 

We loved hanging out at the bar, where we got to watch the Euro Cup games and drowned our sorrows in cold beer, wine and Filet Mignon.  

Eggs Benedict

Tableau

Breakfast at the Tower Suites is served in this intimate dining room with a view of the pool. Good coffee fills your cup without having to ask, and the breakfast/brunch fare is generous but not overwhelming.  I have decided to cast aside fears of a heart attack and just indulged on theirEggs Benedict until I got sick of it.  (Note:True enough, I haven’t had Eggs Benedict since then.)  

Thai Green Curry

Wazuzu

This restaurant is the first that greets you when you arrive at Encore from the covered corridor which connects it to The Wynn.  It is actually my favorite Asian restaurant in the hotel for its diversity as well as value for money.  If the food does not impress you, I’m pretty sure the 20-foot crystal dragon hung across the back wall will. 

When the craving for Asian flavors strike, they have a bevy of braised noodles or soups to choose from. Their Thai Green Curry also hit the spot, and it was oh so comforting with a steaming bowl of rice.

 

Wynn LasVegas and Encore Hotel

3131 LasVegas Blvd.

South LasVegas, NV

Tel. no.(702) 770 7000

http://www.wynnlasvegas.com/

Food Trip USA: New York/ New Jersey

Guilty- I have been absent from blogging for quite some time now.  No excuses.  But, looky here!  A new entry!

I have just returned from a long vacation in the US and, needless to say, Matt and I took full advantage of what the Bastion of Capitalism has to offer.  From organic (and not-so-organic) supermarkets to street food to comfort food, we swept through the country with guts (and pant flaps) wide open. 

Most of our trip was spent in the East Coast, where some of my family is based.   New York and New Jersey is probably the most culturally diverse states in the US and, naturally, so is the food.

Here are a few of our favorite stops.

Whole Foods Market

A trip to the US is not complete without several visits to this organic super store.  The uninitiated usually get visuals of hippies in hemp tunics selling quinoa cupcakes, but that's not what this place is about. 

The produce section is an explosion of color- native and imported fruits, the best green vegetables and herbs from local farmers, all naturally-grown and only the highest grade there is.  The seafood, meat and poultry section boast of the same top-quality stuff.  I heard somebody say recently that there is no such thing as organic beef.  Well, there is- I saw it with my own two eyes:  Organic, grain-fed, dry-aged, prime-grade porterhouse.  I wish I took a picture. 

                      

Matt and I have two favorite sections: the smoked fish and cheese sections.  Vacuum-sealed to maintain optimal freshness, they carry smoked and cured salmon from anywhere in between Alaska and Norway.  They also carry some signature brands, such as Charlie Trotter’s cured salmon.  I was particularly fond of the citrus-y variety.

The cheese section just blew our minds.  I’m pretty sure it’s not the widest of selections, but it was definitely more than what I am used too.  It pretty much covers all the major cheese-producing countries, as well as a number of local artisanal products from upstate.  For this alone Matt and I were willing to make the ten-minute drive to the supermarket every day.

We frequented the branch along River Road, Edgewater, NJ, but there are hundreds all over the US.

http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Sarita’s Macaroni and Cheese (S’mac)

Speaking of cheese- a whole restaurant dedicated to mac and cheese is, in my humble opinion, beyond brilliant.  It could only be a product of divine intervention.  The East Village eatery s'mac offers a sizeable variety of cheese combinations and add-ons that would please every palate.  So far I have only tried two kinds, and of the two, there was one that I fell head-over-heels for- The Alpine.  Perfectly-cooked macaroni coated in luxe Swiss Gruyere cheese, mixed with salty cubes of slab bacon- how could I not? 

And if this was not self-indulgent enough, you can order their mac n cheese “to go” and ready to be reheated any time you are in need of a good coddling. 

345 East 12^thSt. between 1^st & 2^nd Aves., NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 358 7912

http://www.smacnyc.com

Zum Schneider

Another East Village haunt that we loved was this small yet popular German biergarten.  We arrived early and scored a good table, but show up after six and for sure you will have to stand by the bar.  The beer selection is obviously German, with quite a few on tap. The food is, expectedly, all things meaty and cheesy- we enjoyed theboiled veal bratwurst with pretzel, as well as the baked camembert.  It’s a great place to escape the cold, have a beer, and catch up with friends. 

This is a favorite spot for football fans during the Euroand World Cups, so if you find yourself in the area, do check it out.  It should be fun, if you don’t mind being shoulder-to shoulder with rowdy European types. 

107 Ave. Cat East 7^th St. NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 5981098

http://www.zumschneider.com

Landmarc

If I ever become a gazillionaire and could choose any chef in the world to cook for me at home, every single day, it would be Marc Murphy.  His cooking style and food philosophy is akin to mine- French and Italian dishes cooked bistro-style are so up my alley.  Don’t let the trendy surroundings of both his Tribeca and AOL Time-Warner restos fool you- his food is good.

I was able to enjoy his lunch menu a couple of times- once alone, and the second time with companions. It was quite an experience for me to sit at their bar and order myself a meal- I felt so grown-up and chic. 

A deceivingly light yet cholesterol-laden starter is theFrisee aux Lardons- delicate greens tossed in red wine vinaigrette, generously-topped with thick cubes of bacon and poached egg. With that I had a small portion of their Pasta of the day- Linguine con vongole.   

Meat lovers should try their steaks, simply-seasoned and lovingly grilled right behind the bar.  This includes a side salad and fresh-cut fries- and at $30 for the hanger steak-probably one of the best deals in Manhattan. 

The icing on top of the proverbial cake must be the winelist- over 300 bottles to choose from in their thick, leather-bound inventory.  There are no wines by the glass, only half bottles: you can definitely find one you'll like from the 100 varieties they have on stock. 

3/F TimeWarner Center

10 ColumbusCircle, NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 823 6123

http://landmarc-restaurant.com

Blue Ribbon Bakery Kitchen

                                     

This bakery/restaurant is every bit modern-American-cool- from the distressed wooden furniture to the low lighting to the young urbanite staff.  When I went to the bathroom, I discovered the basement bakery where they churn out their delicious breads, as well as a small cellar/dining area.

Aside from the breads, people come here for one other thing-Fried Chicken.  Mildly-spiced and deep-fried until crisp, with a side of mashed potatoes and collared greens- it is southern cooking at its finest. 

Not in the mood for fried chicken?  I spied an interesting cheese list (to go with their bread, of course) as well as a New York strip with shallot butter and fries.  For drinks, go down the street and check out the neighborhood watering holes- $16 for a shot of DonJulio is a buzz kill.    

35 DowningSt. NY, NY

Tel. no.(212) 337 0404

http://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

Your Neighborhood Italian Deli

Judging by the success of both Italian fine dining restaurants and fast food chains alike, millions of Filipinos have readily opened their arms to Italian cuisine over the years. Pasty, sweet spaghetti has been replaced with al dente pasta in all its incarnations, flavored with traditional sauces made in different styles.  Risotto has become a common side dish even in some non-Italian menus, and it is not surprising to see thinly-sliced prosciutto being served with cocktails at dinner parties.

                

So when the craving for Italian food strikes, it’s good to have a cozy nook in the city where you can tuck in for your pizza or pasta fix.  Esprimere is just that kind of place- a small neighborhood joint that serves Italian comfort food that is familiar to its Filipino clientele, without compromising authenticity and quality.  Their menu is limited to the classics- such as pizza and pasta- with some specials for both lunch and dinner.  A glass case at the counter displays a modest selection of deli meats and cheeses- all reasonably-priced and perfect with any of their Italian wines on display. 

                

They have improved on the interiors since their soft opening (a cousin is a friend of the owner)- the warm lighting complimenting the tasteful light wood of the walls and furniture, evoking the feel of a modern and casual European eatery.   They also have beautifully framed photos of Italian scenes, filling the wall next to their signature mural of the Tower of Pisa.  The mood is welcoming and unpretentious, and it encourages you to hang out and enjoy a long meal if you please- which is the Italian way.

                

The vibe seems to have worked its magic on me as I ordered 100 grams of their Salami Calabrese from the deli, with a glass of Italian red wine.  

                

I thoroughly enjoyed the lasagna on my first visit, so when I took Matt with me the next time around we just had to have it.  Esprimere’s lasagna works because it is simple, classic and done right.  The béchamel is smooth and rich, the meat sauce mildly-flavored with oregano and other traditional herbs.  And, most importantly, they topped it with good cheese which made a world of difference.  If I had one issue, it was that the portion left me wanting.  Perhaps they could offer their lasagna in two sizes- their regular one and a larger one for appetites like mine and Matt’s.  Really, I wouldn’t mind paying extra.

                

Their pizzas are also done in the simple and classic style- no outlandish toppings here.  We opted for the four-cheese version, and it was a delight with its balanced flavors and thin, crisp crust.  Since I still had several slices of salami all to myself, I topped a couple of pizza slices with the slightly-piquant meat. 

               

Esprimere is the perfect pit stop for those days when you want some good Italian comfort food.  The food is reasonably-priced, and so is the wine- great for those days when I’m channeling Sophia Loren but want to stay in my flip-flops.

Esprimere Italian Deli

G/F Pearl Plaza

Pearl Drive, Ortigas Center

Pasig City

Tel. no. (632) 544 5963

Recipes: Who's Up for Salted Duck Egg Pasta?

It seems unnerving but, believe me, it works. The first time I had salted duck egg pasta was at Margarita Fores’ now-defunct Pepato in Greenbelt 2. I was unyielding in my praise for it, and when that restaurant closed I believed that was it- goodbye forever. Then, I encountered a different version at Gino’s Brick Oven Pizza in Katipunan- Salted Egg and Bacon Pasta, which was equally rich and beguiling.

Salted duck eggs are commonly used in Chinese and Filipino dishes, imparting a brine-y aroma, with a smooth, creamy egg white and a hard, textured red-orange yolk. I grew up eating salted egg and tomato salad with silog dishes and grilled food, immediately putting my already hyperactive taste buds on overdrive. It is a bit of an acquired taste, but once you have it as accompaniment to the perfect dish, you’ll be hooked for sure.

And ever since I had a taste of it again in a pasta dish, I just knew I had to try making it at home. I chose to make the more “Matt-friendly” (read: no pork) Pepato version, but a more rustic take on the Fores original. Instead of thin sheets of papardelle, I used tagliatelle, and had my 5-year-old niece roughly break the asparagus apart instead of finely chopping them. Generous chunks of salted duck egg dot the dish- a salty treat for the fan that could not get enough. It’s exotic and looks impressive, plus it only takes around ten minutes to cook. What else could possibly be stopping you?

Tagliatelle with Onion Cream, Salted Duck Egg, Asparagus and Truffle Oil (serves 4 to 6)

Ingredients:

250 g. Tagliatelle (or any flat pasta)
2 cups cooking cream
1 small white onion, finely chopped
A handful of baby asparagus, cut into 1 ½ inch pieces
3 salted duck eggs, (2 eggs mashed into a paste, 1 roughly chopped into cubes)
2 teaspoons truffle oil
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon nutmeg
Grated parmesan, to garnish
Salt and pepper

Procedure:

-Cook the tagliatelle according to package instructions. When it says cook for six minutes, I usually do four or five.
- Heat a pan over medium heat and cook the onions in the olive oil. When the onions are translucent, toss the asparagus into the pan.
- Pour in the cream and mix in the salted duck egg paste. Lower the heat and season with nutmeg, salt (if needed, the eggs are already salty) and pepper. Let it simmer for two minutes.
- Toss the cooked pasta in the pan, top with the cubed eggs, and mix gently until the sauce is evenly integrated. Remove from the fire and then drizzle the truffle oil on top and mix.
- Garnish with some grated parmesan and serve immediately.

Deciphering the Carbonara Conspiracy

My love affair with pasta began at a very young age: I believe I was around 7 or 8. In fact, I remember it quite vividly.

During one of my shopping excursions with my mom, we stopped for an afternoon snack at a department store café. Having always been an adventurous eater, I look through the menu, and spot something which seemed incredibly exotic to me at the time- Fetuccine Carbonara. I asked my mom if I could try it, and she raised a skeptical eyebrow at my request. After all, the only kind of pasta I have had before that was children’s-party-variety “Spaghetti Bolognese”, prepared Filipino-style with slices of hotdog in a sweetish tomato sauce. I remember her being supportive though, and watched me intently as I had my first bite of the creamy, flat noodles tossed with bits of mushroom and ham. Needless to say, I was hooked on everything pasta from then on.

But, as my maturing palate made me crave for food that is “bigger, better, more authentic”, I soon discover that my beloved Carbonara is not what it claims to be. Real Carbonara has no ham, no mushrooms and (gasp!) no cream. A traditional Carbonara from Lazio (where Rome is located) in Italy is made simply of the following ingredients: whole eggs or egg yolks, olive oil, guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from pork jowl or cheek) and Pecorino Romano cheese. (Guanciale and pecorino are easily available in the Lazio region, but when these are unavailable, acceptable substitutes would be pancetta (salt-cured pork belly) and parmesan cheese.) I also just discovered that fetuccine pasta is not a suitable match for this kind of sauce because it is too delicate. Italians are very strict in using only spaghetti or bucatini (sometimes penne) for Carbonara.

Recently, I chanced upon fellow food blogger Miguel’s Facebook page and he expressed his frustration on the lack of authentic Spaghetti Carbonara in Manila. He was surprised to discover that even in the better Italian restaurants, their Carbonara is prepared with cream. This made me wonder: Why is it that such a simple recipe (it practically contains just four ingredients) has been bastardized to such horrendous proportions that the “wrong” version is often believed to be the standard one?

I ask a chef friend about this, and he suggests that it could be brought about by foreign cooks adapting to what is available to them. During earlier times in the UK, for instance, cream is more accessible than poultry products, hence the switch. In my research over the net, angry purists blame greedy restaurant owners for using pricier ingredients in lieu of Carbonara’s otherwise regular cupboard fare to justify the additional zeroes in their prices. Being a guilty conspirator in the practice of “creamed” Carbonara, the reason could be as simple as this: Carbonara is easier to make with cream. A cream sauce can conveniently be prepared a bit earlier and re-heated when ready to serve. The traditional Carbonara, however, should definitely be cooked ala minute, very quickly, or else it could easily turn into an omelette.

I will not feign snobbery and say that putting cream in Carbonara is bad. In fact, give me a well-prepared cream-sauce Carbonara and I would be happy to eat it. I just think that, if you are a restaurant serving what you claim is authentic Italian cuisine, you must prepare Carbonara the same way they do it in Lazio.

As homage and “Oh-My-God-I’m-So-Sorry” to the pasta dish that started it all for me, I would like to share a recipe of Spaghetti Carbonara, done the traditional way. This is based on a couple of recipes I have gathered- all approved by some kind of Italian organization that protects the authenticity of their food- and tweaked according to availability of ingredients and personal taste.



Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Ingredients:
250 g. Spaghetti
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons olive oil
200 g. pancetta, cut into cubes
2 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk, beaten
100 g. parmesan, grated
Salt and pepper for seasoning

Procedure:
- In a big pot of boiling water with salt, cook the spaghetti for 7-8 minutes, or until al dente. When done, remove from the water, draining the pasta water into a bowl and set aside to be used later.
- Mix in 2/3 of the grated parmesan into the egg mixture and season with a pinch of salt.
- In a separate pan over medium heat, cook the cubes of pancetta in the olive oil. Include the garlic, and remove before it turns brown. (Note: This will impart a subtle garlic flavor to the oil which will not overpower the dish. If you do not care much for garlic, you can skip the garlic part all together.)
- When pancetta has been nicely toasted, dump the spaghetti into the pan. Mix the spaghetti and pancetta mixture quickly, and then remove the pan from the fire. Stir in the egg and cheese mixture continuously until it acquires a beautiful, creamy consistency. If the sauce is a bit dry (or “tight”, as chefs call it), add a few spoonfuls of the pasta water.
- Move the pasta into a big serving bowl and season with some fragrant, freshly-crushed black pepper and top with the remaining parmesan cheese.
- Serve immediately.

It all seems simple enough, and it really is. I do need to stress the importance of mixing the egg mixture continuously to attain the creamy texture of the sauce. I myself began to panic when I noticed some parts starting to come together like an omelette, and I remember going “f_ck, f_ck, f_ck” under my breath. DO NOT PANIC. Just keep stirring, and the minute the sauce is creamy, it’s done. Buon Appetito!

To C' or Not to C'?: The Angeles Adventure

It almost did not happen.

There was a storm coming, and when it started raining hard in the afternoon, Matt and I were hesitant to push through. We heard on the radio, though, that the sudden downpour had nothing to do with the typhoon coming towards the Northern part of the country. Just to be sure, we contacted popular weatherman/ celebrity adventurer/animal lover/our wedding sponsor Kuya Kim- and asked if a quick trip was possible despite the sketchy weather. He gave us the go signal, and so there was really nothing stopping us. And off we went to one of the most famous food havens of the North- Angeles, Pampanga.

The main reason we took the trip was to finally get to try the popular Italian restaurant C’ Italian Dining. With Swiss chef Chris Locher at the helm, this Italian resto has become one of the most talked-about and revered dining establishments in the Philippines. His food is probably one of the most blogged about in the country, while an army of ravenous fans are tireless in singing him praises. Needless to say, C’ Italian is definitely a restaurant that I must try. So, as part of my birthday treat, Matt has planned a day trip to Angeles to visit the popular eatery.



We had a bit of difficulty finding the road where C’ was located, but once we got on Don Juico Avenue it was easy to spot their now-famous sign. Walking through the lobby, I caught a sight of the main dining room full to capacity for dinner service. Matt reserved a table in the garden, which they claim had the better ambience. The set-up is quite relaxed, with tiled table tops and metal rattan chairs, the topiaries laced with Christmas lights. We were seated in the corner of a small roofed area, sharing it with a few other diners. We hand over a bottle of good cava to the server, and she quickly whisks it away to be chilled.




After ordering, we were served some complimentary bread with a platito of olive oil, fresh pesto and grated parmesan on the side. The bread was warm and soft, clearly freshly-baked.



We sipped our nicely-chilled Freixinet Ellysia Gran Cuvee while we waited, but we did not have to wait long. As soon as the server placed our Panizza on the table, we quickly went to work. This is the original, after all- the precursor to Yellow Cab’s Dear Darla and Focaccia’s version- so Matt and I were excited to taste for ourselves why this dish has become legendary. As instructed in the many foodie blog posts that made it famous, you pull a slice of the panizza, top it with arugula and alfalfa sprouts, roll it up, and enjoy. We decided to go with the panizza topped with peppers, artichoke, eggplant, olives thinking that it would be the lightest option. The first couple of rolls were quite enjoyable- the huge leaves of arugula were fresh and crunchy, the alfalfa sprouts gave a unique flavor dimension to the dish. The cheese was also quite flavorful, and Matt noted that it was not just mozzarella since it had a richer and nuttier taste… A touch of Fontina, perhaps?

Overall, it could have been quite good. What made the dish less than stellar, though, was that after a few minutes, the panizza became very soggy. It was almost impossible to roll the pizza with the center turning into mush. As much as I love cheese, I think they put way too much of it, putting too much weight on the delicate crust. Good food always calls for a perfect balance of ingredients and flavors, and this is one of the few times when it was too much of a good thing.



The risotto, sadly, had the same problem. We ordered the Katrina, which is Arborio rice with salmon, asparagus, broccoli, mushrooms and truffle oil. Once again, the first few bites had us ooh-ing and ah-ing, the small particles of perfectly-cooked rice are coated in a luscious, fragrant sauce, the vegetables and fish coming together quite well. Eventually, though, we found ourselves pushing the big chunks of salmon and clunky vegetables aside, opting from the simple but sublime flavors that only mushrooms and truffle could bring. Again, I wonder why they felt the need to cram all those ingredients into that dish. Perplexed, we pushed the half-eaten dish aside and hoped that the secondi would not disappoint.



While looking through the menu, we saw that this was a house specialty, so we got a small order of the Flank Steak. It came sliced atop roasted potatoes, pumpkin and sautéed spinach with garlic. Once again, I cannot complain about the flavor- the steak was perfectly-seasoned, the spinach with garlic stood-out among the side dishes. It really could have been a very delicious dish, if only the meat was tender. Matt said it was “inedible”, but I myself would not put it as harshly. I admit I have had softer flank steaks, but the overall flavor of the dish has rendered me to be more forgiving. But after a two-hour drive to unfamiliar territory, I somehow understand why Matt feels he deserves better.






While we finished our wine, Matt spots our good friend Mark with his friends, Angelo and Wendel. Mark is a world-class DJ and is spinning at the Tim Yap/Divine Lee-owned club, Mansion, that night, so he is billeted at Angelo’s hotel, The Lewis Grand, which was also along that road. Wendel was just there to get away from the city, happy to have a “weekend with the boys”. They join our table and have the server bring their dishes over. Being frequent guests at C’, they seem to know which dishes are really good. I remember spotting Lamb Ribs with Lentil and a tomato-based pasta with seafood. They talked animatedly and devoured their food simultaneously, and I almost wished I had room for more food so I could have tasted their dishes.



After the boys inhaled their dinner, they invited us to drop by the hotel and have a few drinks with them at the club. We happily agree. Apparently, when Matt told Mark that we will be in Angeles, he told Angelo to reserve us a room. The only available room that night was the presidential suite, so that was what he put aside for us. Sadly, that was the weekend before a big typhoon was scheduled to arrive, so we were advised by my parents to not stay the night. Upon seeing the room, though, I started having second thoughts about leaving. That room was quite impressive! The art deco/modern asian design, the enormous bed (“It’s a ‘Hollywood’ king”, Angelo informs us, referring to its size), the Jacuzzi right next to it, the full-sized ref stocked with water, soda, beer and juice… It had everything you could possibly need for a wild hotel room party.



We had a round of drinks at the poolside bar, and then Angelo excused himself to get some rest before going to the club. We went ahead since Mark starts spinning at midnight.






After a fifteen minute drive, we arrive at Mansion. We got our “VIP” stamps at the door, after which Mark and Wendel led us into the main room. The club was massive with its high ceilings and grand ballroom-like design. By clubbing standards, it was still early, so the dance floor was still filling up and the VIP tables still awaiting their guests. We go past the huge bouncer and Mark shows us the view from the DJ booth, high above everyone else. He instructs the bottle girl to lead us to a table, where she lays a bottle of vodka, ice and some mixers. “Just order what you want”, Mark generously offers, “I never get to use my signing privileges”. Something tells me I’m in the wrong industry.



We stay for a few rounds (3? 4? 5?) of vodka cranberry, enjoying the party vibe and that rush you get from being in an unfamiliar place. Mark goes on and does his thing, reminding me once again why people pay him good money to play music in clubs all over the US and Asia. Tired from the drive and with that nagging thought of the coming storm, we leave just as the party was getting started.

Now, to answer the question I have been evading: Will I eat at C’ Italian Dining again? I probably would, if- and only if- I was already in the area. Somehow I cannot believe that its legions of fans were wrong about their food- perhaps the chef was not there, or he was simply having an off-night. It might not be worth the day trip like my favorite restaurants in Tagaytay, but I am more than willing to come back and try their other dishes. My friend and fellow blogger, Sanju, tells us to order a simple mushroom risotto next time, as opposed to the crazy mess that they offer on the menu. I have to admit that the risotto did have some promise, and I am very much open to being proven wrong.



C’Italian Dining1210 Don Juico Ave.
Clark View, Angeles City
Pampanga
Tel. no. (63-45) 8924059
(63-45) 8926993

Lewis Grand HotelDon Juico Ave.
Clark View, Angeles City
Pampanga
Tel. no. (63-45) 6253947
http://www.lewisgrand.com/

The MansionThe Enclave
Friendship Highway
Angeles City, Pampanga