Rabbit Virgin, No More

I had a long week- trying to meet my self-imposed deadline for the newsletter, while dealing with backlog at work; going to the gym while still on starvation mode; and, of course, the ongoing preparations for the wedding. By week’s end, I was physically and mentally-drained, as well as deliriously hungry.

Fortunately, I had Friday dinner to look forward to, which Matt and I decided mid-week would be at our favorite French resto, Je Suis Gourmand. We have not been back since last December, when we just passed by to grab a log of Foie Gras Terrine and bottled Peppercorn Sauce for Christmas Day dinner. Matt has always been picky with his food, so I’m happy that we have a shared affinity for this popular bistro (along with a few other restaurants) which we try to visit as often as time and budget would allow.

I brought a bottle of Chinon Le Grezeaux 2002 which I bought from Sommelier Selection (through The Bluefrog) a year ago. Wine connoisseur and serious foodie Bernie Sim was at a table nearby with his charming wife, and instructed me to have my wine chilled and decanted immediately.

Looking through the familiar menu, I thought I would give my favorites a rest and inquired about the specials. Although the server eloquently enumerated the dishes, I missed out on a few of the details. Good thing Mr. Sim came up to our table and recommended that I have the rabbit dish which was one of the specials that evening. He claimed that it would go very well with my Cabernet Franc from the Loire region.

I smile uncomfortably and tentatively order the dish. I would actually call myself an adventurous eater, having had my first balut (duck enbryo) when I was 9, and even braving an appetizer of crickets at Fely J.’s recently. But, for some reason, I have consciously avoided eating rabbit. Maybe because I had a pet bunny at one point in my childhood, and so have always put the cuddly creatures in the same category as Shih-tzus and Shetland ponies. But, since Gourmand has yet to disappoint me, I decide that it’s time to- as Elmer Fudd loved to say- “Kill the wabbit”.

When I told Chef Marc Aubry about my concerns, he scoffed in his typical French way and said, “Oh, don’t worry! I saw the one you’re eating tonight, and it’s an ugly one.” Ok. I feel a lot better.

Our starters finally arrive. I ordered the Mesclun Greens with Bacon, Roquefort, Egg and Wallnuts tossed in a light vinaigrette. This is something that I would love to make at home, being so simple and yet so satisfying. I would pretty much call it “star-studded”, containing practically every ingredient that I would want to find in my salad. The flavors were perfectly-balanced and they were very generous with the bacon. I can’t complain.

Matt had a bistro staple, Onion Soup, topped with Gruyere and a toasted slice of baguette. This was followed by his favorite Gourmand dish, Lamb Shank with roasted vegetables and potatoes. Instead of the usual potatoes, he asked for reosti (Swiss pan-fried shredded potatoes, typically with bacon). Good thing Chef Marc remembered that Matt does not eat pork, and so made sure that there was no bacon in it.

And finally I come face to face with my main course, Stuffed Rabbit Saddle with Garlic Tarragon Pasta. I discovered that rabbit meat had an unusual texture- quite rubbery and dry. I learned from Chef Marc that the rabbit itself does not have a lot of flavor, especially these farmed ones, so it soaks up all the flavors and aromas of its accompanying sauces and side dish. The stuffing of rabbit liver and kidneys was deliciously earthy and succulent, truly making the dish a perfect match with the wine and its moderate-to-heavy tannins. It was an earthy and brawny wine, something that I could imagine standing up to even meatier dishes. The pasta, although quite simple, was flavorful and intensely aromatic. Matt- occasionally picking from my plate- asked me, “You can make this, right? Try to make this at home, ok?”

Once again too stuffed for dessert, we finished off our wine outside with a few cigs. Chef Marc, who usually joins us for some smokes and conversation, was noticeably absent. Later on, he tells us that he has decided to quit the smelly habit. He did chat with us a bit before we left, Matt and I making the effort not to smoke in front of him. Although Chef Marc said that he doesn’t mind, I personally would want him to enjoy his new life devoid of carbon monoxide.

It was a wonderful dinner, but I must admit that I am not a fan of rabbit. Although the dish itself was tasty, rabbit meat just does not have the juicy succulence of steak or the sublime gaminess of duck breast.

Bunnies everywhere can give out a sigh of relief.



Je Suis Gourmand
Net One Plaza
Fort Global City, Tagiug
Tel. no. (632) 8158801