One Big Bite

Quick Bites: Achiote's Guacamole

2012-01-31T17:10:00.004+08:00

When I was a tiny foodie, I associated avocado with breakfast. Growing up in Antipolo, we had seasonal harvests from the avocado tree in my grandma’s backyard. Naturally, we would eat them the way my mother grew up eating them, and that is grated into thin, spaghetti-like strands, showered with white sugar, and doused with a lot of fresh milk. Groggy, my sisters and I would eat them before we left for the five-minute ride to school, energized soon enough by the fatty fruit and strung out from all the sugar.

When I discovered Mexican food, I became aware that avocado can be savory, too. And it is delicious. Guacamole is an avocado-based salsa which is served alongside some of the more popular Mexican dishes, such as quesadillas, tacos and nachos. But once in a while, it does take center stage, such as in Rosa Mexicano at Columbus St. in Manhattan, where young and trendy New Yorkers scarf them down with blue corn chips and pomegranate Margaritas. The first time I tried them almost a decade ago, prepared table-side and served in what looks like an Aztec artifact, I was immediately hooked on the stuff and would search far and wide for something that would come close in flavor and quality.

Finally, and without much fanfare, I discovered the Naked Guacamole in Achiote. Matt and I were excited about their other dishes- tortas for Matt, tacos for me- and ordered their guac with chips and salsa more as a mandatory appetizer. “Pre-game”, if you will. It arrived quickly in its chilled margarita glass, majestically rising an impressive four-inches from the base. I scoop up a sizeable amount with a crisp tortilla chip and very little expectations.

It was love at first bite. The pronounced flavors of scallions, tomato and cilantro with the creamy chunks of avocado were immediately addicting. This guac is not your run-of-the-mill condiment that you slather on top of a cheese quesadilla- it commands your full attention, with only a crisp corn chip acting as a tasty spoon. I am happy and smitten… and delighted that I no longer need to hop on a plane for excellent guacamole.

Achiote Tequeria
G/F Powerplant Mall
Rockwell, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 9229336

Boudin Noir et Moi

2012-01-30T12:44:00.006+08:00

I don’t like to be disappointed, especially with food. And with French food, I have become quite picky. Not because my palate has become so refined (read: maarte), but that I do have my favorites. Those who follow my blog know that I have my go-to French bistro here in Manila and I am fiercely loyal to it, to the point that I befriended the snooty French chef/owner even if I really do not like him that much, only so I get first dibs on the good stuff. (Just kidding, Marc. You know I love you.) I know what dishes are good, and which ones are great, and so I stick to them and they keep me happy.

Therefore, every time a new French restaurant opens, I proceed with caution. I am not easily impressed by a chef’s nationality, pedigree or educational background- I have learned from experience that these factors do not ensure great-tasting food. Like some bloggers, I do not feel the need to be the first one through the door on opening day. I allow these restaurants to get the hang of things, and also to get a feel if their food was well-received (by the right people, of course… those whose opinions do matter to me).

Brasserie Cicou is relatively-new, so new that I would normally not have eaten there just yet for fear of the “soft opening blues”. But I did want to see my friends (couples Aaron and Jo; Noel and Catha) whom I haven’t seen in quite a while, and they suggested that we eat there. Noel’s family has already eaten there before and they are very good friends with chef/owner Cyrille Soenen. During a Facebook conversation, Aaron also reassured me that, “They’ll make sure the food’s good since we’re with Noel.” So finally, after months of planning, our triple date finally pushed through one Tuesday evening.

Cicou’s dining room is lovely and spacious- the sun-bleached wood of the tables and chairs with the muted pastel palette are fresh and delicate, almost pretty. It reminded me of the interiors of the now-defunct La Cabane along Pasay Road, which I visited a few times years ago. There was an elevated sitting area which encouraged lively and relaxed conversations over wine or Pastis.

When Matt and I arrived, the rest have already ordered and cava is already being poured. There are also three bottles of Rioja wines from the region’s top producers which Noel said were sent by a supplier for tasting. Him and Aaron (of ADP Industries, the importer of cava giant Freixinet in the Philippines) have a “small business” wherein they bring in and distribute some of the best Spanish wines. I remember telling myself, “If the food bombs, at least I was able to drink some really good wines.”

The food did not bomb. In fact, there were some really good dishes that evening that I would be happy to come back for.

Like the Steak Tartare, for instance. It was very nicely-seasoned, flavored generously with tart whole capers, chopped green onions and parsley. Not worth a long drive to Greenhills (for those who live in the south of Metro Manila), but I would surely order it again when we do find ourselves back in Cicou.

My favorite among all the starters was the Escargot Bourguignonne. No need to navigate through awkward tongs and scooping out squiggly forest-floor creatures from their “homes”- the snails are already conveniently de-shelled and swimming in little tubs of melted herb butter. And these were not diminutive, petite snails- these were definitely the ones who drank mama’s milk, and lots of it. Thick and juicy, decadently-flavored with aromatic herbs and fine butter, I was definitely tempted to dunk little pieces of bread in the special escargot dish. But then, sitting next to lovely, poised Catha, I had to restrain myself.

I was very happy I took a gamble and ordered the Boudin Noir for my main course. Boudin Noir is blood sausage made in the French style, and in Cicou, the sausage is sliced and placed over a fluffy bed of potato puree, drizzled with jus, and topped with a roasted peach. I was expecting the sausage to be offal-y with a texture similar to liver, but it was the opposite- the flavors were actually very delicate and the sausage itself seemed to melt in my mouth. The peach lent an interesting flavor and textural contrast. Overall, it was a highly-successful dish and I look forward to having it again.

I must also note that Cicou serves a mean Steak Frites. Noel shared some of his- cooked perfectly rare- and I enjoyed the tender, flavorful meat, simply accented with sea salt.

The most popular dish from this young resto has got to be their dessert dish called Kouign Amann. The texture is that of a thick croissant, covered in candied sugar which seems to have melted into the flaky pastry as it baked. On the side is not the usual salted caramel ice cream but vanilla, and everyone agrees that it seems to be a more refined match. It really is quite dreamy with its sweet, flaky, buttery goodness, and now I understand why it has quite the cult following.

It was a lovely dinner with friends who share some of the same passions we have. The wines, of course, were exceptional, and I leave the business partners to launch them at will, with proper wine notes and all. I do hope they bring them in soon, and for sure cases of the stuff will be wiped out in no time and a sure hit at any respectable dinner party.

Even if I don’t see this group as often as I want, we always have good fun and wonderful conversations. Quality, not quantity. And I must admit that I did not regret coming to the newly-opened Cicou- the kitchen, although without their head chef, churned out some pretty tasty dishes. It was interesting to know later on that my favorite Boudin Noir (who also got high marks from BN veteran Catha) was prepared by Noel and Catha’s niece, Nicole, who is part of the brasserie’s young staff.

Lovely meal. I shall be back for more.

*Photos of the Steak Frites, Kouign Amann, and the good-looking people are by Noel Ermitano.

Brasserie Cicou
57 Annapolis St.
Greenhills, San Juan
Tel. no. (632) 6619200

If you want to be included in Noel and Aaron’s mailing list so you’re updated on what fabulous Spanish wines they’ll be bringing in next, please send your contact details to Aaron Palileo- terruno@adpic.org.

Go South for Swiss Food

2012-01-25T12:35:00.004+08:00

This low-carb diet really got in the way of me doing the things I love to do. I cannot even remember the last time I stepped into an Italian restaurant! (Actually, I do- it was more than a month ago. Too long.)

One weekend, I just told myself: Screw it. A day of carbohydrate overload could not be that bad. After all, Matt and I have been good- oatmeal for breakfast, smaller portions, and no more midnight phone calls to McDonald’s and Yellow Cab Pizza. So off we went with our favorite foodie crew to Appenzeller- our favorite Swiss restaurant south of Makati.

I was contemplating on putting this entry under the “Brunch-ing Manila” series because my favorite Swiss dishes seem to comfortably fall under that category. I can imagine people having some of these dishes any time of the day- most especially after one of those alcohol-laced nights when you crave hearty, fried food. But then again, Appenzeller’s line-up for Swiss/Central European/Continental dishes are so diverse that it would be misleading to just zero in on the roestis and the schnitzels.

Matt and I heard about this cozy eatery from some friends living in Alabang who love the authentic cooking and laidback vibe which highly-encourage leisurely meals, probably followed by a few drinks. The bar is bedecked with popular spirits and some Central European liqeur, including one from the Swiss region after which the restaurant was named.

Arriving a little after one in the afternoon, our group was famished, and we began our meal with some German wheat beer and appetizers.

Oettinger Weissbier is a refreshing, mildly-fruity beer, a style that I enjoy. This is not my favorite Wiessbier, but since it is the only one Appenzeller carries, it will do. In fact, I had two, a feat that a beer lightweight like me rarely achieves. It was just so good with the food, I tell myself, feeling slightly guilty as I start counting carbs in my head. But just as soon as I began, I conveniently shoved those restrictive thoughts back to the back of my mind and allowed myself to enjoy.

The Buure Schublig- a cured Swiss sausage, reminiscent of Spanish fuet- was a great accompaniment to the beer. It was moderately salty, a bit chewy, and very flavorful.

Being a Swiss meal, we just had to have cheese. And what could be more over-the-top than Deep Fried Camembert? Camembert is an unpasteurized soft cheese from France which is beloved for its mild flavor and gooey texture. In Appenzeller, it is given the schnitzel treatment as it is rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried to golden perfection. I eat it spread over crackers and topped with a little bit of preserved beets. Delicious, although I believe they can find better crackers than Sky Flakes. Nothing wrong with Sky Flakes, in fact I eat it at home. But that’s exactly what I mean- if I wanted to eat cheese and Sky Flakes, than I would have been happy to do so in my pajamas.

The Veal Bratwurst with Potato Salad was also a must try, something very popular in that region. Sanj enjoyed the sausage very much, much more than the Buure Schublig. We asked the server if it was homemade and she confirmed my suspicion that it was sourced from Swiss-owned Santis Delicatessen. Two things I learned from their veal brat is that, 1) caramelized onions and white sausage is the bomb, and 2) a nice sear on a sausage from a scorching-hot pan or grill makes a world of difference.

After a short lull, the main courses arrived all together. Matt, Cutie and Mark V. ordered their own, while Sanj and I ordered several dishes to be shared with all.

A Steak Tartare lover recommended the Appenzeller version, so Sanj decided to order one for the table. Interestingly, the waitress asked us if we wanted it spicy. Funny how this is the first time I was asked this in a restaurant, since I think the spice level is a vital characteristic of this particular dish. True enough, the steak tartare was nicely-seasoned and piquant- exactly how I would have wanted it to taste if I made it myself. It could be less fine though, as I prefer steak tartare a bit chunky. Otherwise, it develops a strange, mousse-y character- something I don’t want associated with raw beef.

The Zuercher Geschnetzeltes- one of my favorite Swiss dishes to order (not only because it’s so good, but also because I like to brag how I can pronounce it with ease)- was, sadly, our least favorite dish. The flavor of butter was overwhelming, which is never a good thing, in any style of cooking. What a waste of good spaetzle (pasta dumplings).

The Berner Roesti, another favorite, is one of those dishes I can easily have for brunch as well. Roesti- crisp on the outside, moist and soft in the inside- is a popular Swiss potato dish, similar to hash browns. You can pretty much toss in whatever you want to make it more exciting. In this case, the Berger is a roesti potato topped with cheese, bacon and egg. I devoured my order of this the first time we ate here, but the second time I found it to be a tad lackluster. More my fault than the kitchen, though- since we ordered so much food, the cheese hardened as the dish got colder. Note to self: Give the Berner Roesti the attention it deserves- no double-booking.

Another repeat performance came from the Beef Stroganoff (served with a side of buttered pasta). Mark V. and I are particularly fond of this dish- the beef strips are sliced generously and cooked a perfect medium, covered in a robust, demi-glace-based sauce. It’s hearty and comforting, a dish you would love to curl up with on a cold or rainy day.

I love brunch-ing at this restaurant with friends, not only because of the food, but because of the easy vibe, something that is also synonymous with the area. And with the Skyway, it is no longer the “road trip” it used to be. After the three-hour meal, we did some shopping at South Supermarket, where I even found a stall selling Alamid coffee (that expensive stuff which is actually poo from some forest creature) and had my first taste. It was a good day with friends, one of those things that I live for.

Appenzeller Bar & Restaurant
Alabang-Zapote Road
Alabang, Muntinlupa

Directions, from Makati- Go south on the Skyway and exit at South Station (Alabang-Zapote Rd.). Just go straight until you hit the Acacia Avenue intersection. Right after you pass that, you will see a row of low buildings on your right. Make a right on the next break on the road and go back. Appenzeller is on that row, next to Tile Depot.

Season's Greetings from a Negligent Blogger

2011-12-24T15:06:00.001+08:00

It's been a busy December for me, hence the neglected blog. But, nevertheless, thank you to those who continue to read. Just for your guys, I promise to be more active this coming 2012. May your holiday season be filled with love, laughter, and of course- lots and lots of glorious food!

Love, Chi and Matt

This Lil Piggy Had Cake

2011-11-18T14:08:00.002+08:00

It took a while for Red Velvet cake to make it to our shores, but I'm really just glad it did. This American classic is as decadent as it is visually spectacular- the deep, red-brown hue of chocolate-flavored cake, set against the stark contrast of white cream cheese or buttercream frosting is a standout with its classic features. The flavors are truly moan-inducing, and I have yet to meet a person who has not fallen for it's voluptuous charms.

Recently, Red Velvet cake (and it's equally beguiling cupcake incarnation) has developed a pretty impressive cult following locally. I myself have quite the sweet tooth (albeit a controlled one, thanks to diabetes in my genes), and once in a while the seductive mental image of moist, garnet-hued cake smothered in thick cream cheese icing proves to be far too irresistible.

Luckily, through the wonders of Facebook, I discover that my friend Chrissie Regaza- a highly-accomplished baker and fellow lush- of The Rolling Pig bakes, among other delectable goodies, a mean Red Velvet cake. Therefore, with my Dad's birthday coming up, I decide to order him a cake and, yes, eat it, too.

I must admit- and I say this without bias- that The Rolling Pig's Red Velvet cake is as good as they can possibly get- definitely moist, but not dense, the cake is light-footed until you get to the icing, which was sweet and decadent and all forms of wonderful. What is freakishly good about this cake is that it gets even better after a couple of days in the fridge, which is usually where cakes go to die. How many times have I kept a slice of cake in the fridge's cold crevices, only to resurface as a dry, ragged version of it's old self? No, not this one. TRP's Red Velvet stayed moist, and the flavors of it's frosting and filling just became more intense.

I was already a fan, but now, I'm a disciple.

The Rolling Pig
Tel. No. (632) 8209350

The Perfect Steak

2011-10-29T08:25:00.004+08:00

Dinner at Antonio's is usually reserved for special occasions. Aside from impeccably- presented and prepared food, service is almost always flawless and the ambience is one of the most breathtaking and genteel in the country. But this time, we just HAD to go, for the sole purpose that the Deal Grocer vouchers I purchased months ago were expiring. I mean, we had to go. Right?

Days before our day trip to Tagaytay, Matt was already dreaming of ordering steak. Thing is, we swore never to order steak at Antonio's, simply because there are more intricately-prepared dishes to be enjoyed. Besides, there are at least two places in Manila where they know how to cook a perfect steak- and one of those places, modesty aside, is in my kitchen. So, we go to Antonio's to enjoy their roasted rack of lamb or maybe the duck breast, but never their steaks.Although, recently, Matt has been disappointed with the steaks he ordered in our go-to restaurant for Prime Rib-eyes. So, he decided that maybe it was time to give Antonio's steaks a try, thinking that these guys would definitely know how to properly grill or broil a beautiful piece of meat.

As I expected, our Prime Porterhouse Steak was- for lack of a more appropriate word- perfection. First of all, let's talk about the quality of the meat- cut over an inch thick, with zero gristle, cooked medium rare, going towards medium as it sat on the hot plate. A porterhouse, for those who do not know, is actually a large t-bone, with one side of the bone being the tenderloin, and the smaller side is the top loin (when sliced off the bone, becomes a New York strip). The meat was lightly seasoned with cardamom, salt and pepper, swimming in it's juices and good-quality olive oil. Overall, the meat was tender, but the top loin part was beyond pillow soft. Oh, and I think I should mention that Matt had a "food-gasm" when he took his first bite of the potato gnocchi. I mean, his head literally fell backwards.

On the side, we were given lemon wedges, chimichuri, steak sauce and some pink Himalayan rock salt to flavor the steak with. Matt and I were perfectly happy just dousing the meat in it's natural jus, with a sprinkling of pink salt. In our opinion, that's all it really needed. Even the crispy onion strings they put on top of the steak was mere garnish.With the meal, we had a bottle of this 2006 Amarone I bought from Terry's Selection (I really should start taking wine notes and not be such a lush- Cutie, what is this again?) which went wonderfully with the grilled meat- it was full-bodied, with rich-almost unctuous- dark berries and prunes. Even matt, who prefers more delicate reds, loved the flavors and balance of this one.

Once again, we had a perfect evening at Antonio's, and we definitely would not think twice about having steak there on our next visits.

Antonio's Restaurant
Brgy. Neogan
Tagaytay City
Mobile no. +639178992866

Brunch-ing Manila (in Bed): Making Croque Madame

2011-10-16T11:12:00.003+08:00

Yesterday, my parents showed up with a big loaf of ciabatta for me and Matt. They know about Matt's love affair with good bread (one of the two things he has in common with my mom- the other thing is OCD), so it was sweet of them to swing by the deli at their apartment building before picking me up for lunch. Since I have been off booze for the past few days (and will be for a few more days to come) because I'm on meds for a nasty cough, making brunch on a weekend morning was not such a laughable possibility. So, I pick-up a few more deli items and realize that not only can I make a mean sandwich with these goodies, but I can actually make Croque Madame.

Below is a recipe (loosely based on a recipe I got from Epicurious.com) of this decadent brunch dish or entree that, quite honestly, is more "low-maintenance" than it's name leads you to believe.

Croque Madame (good for 2)

2 thick slices of hearty bread (in this case, ciabatta)
Butter
Olive oil
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup low-fat milk
2 slices Turkey ham ( for Matt the Pork Hater)
2 slices Gruyere cheese
2 eggs
Nutmeg
Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper

Procedure:
-Make some bechamel sauce. In a small sauce pan, cook the flour in two knobs of butter over low heat for two minutes. Slowly stir in the milk until fully incorporated, season with a couple pinches of nutmeg, and cook until thick. Remove from heat and set aside.
- slice 2 chunky pieces of ciabatta, approximately 3"x3". Slice the top part off so you're left with a relatively flat surface and place on a baking pan. Smear a thin layer of dijon mustard on both slices of bread then top with turkey ham. Smooth some bechamel on top of the ham, and then a slice of gruyere. Put the oven on "broil" and set it on "high". Broil the croques for 2 minutes or until cheese starts boiling, switch off oven and then move the baking pan to the bottom to keep them warm.
-On a frying pan, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and a teaspoon of butter. Cook eggs until yolks are still runny and season with salt and pepper. Remove croques from baking sheet and place fried eggs on top of each croque.
- Serve immediately

The Beach and the Alchemist

2011-10-13T12:32:00.007+08:00

This year, I wanted to celebrate my birthday in a different way. I have always enjoyed being surrounded by family and friends, finding joy and excitement in food, drink and revelry. But, on my 33rd birthday, I’ve decided to go on a trip with Matt- my husband, favorite dining companion, occasional fashion stylist, hardiest sparring partner and dearest friend. I chose the island of Boracay because it’s fun, accessible and relatively affordable compared to going abroad. Besides, some of our favorite food haunts are on that island, so I can still easily fulfill my favorite birthday indulgence, which is to pig out.

For our fancy birthday dinner for two, I consulted with fellow bar owner and epicure Christine San Diego- whose creperie and French bistro Ti Braz is as much a Boracay icon as Willy’s Rock- on where I could have a nice romantic dinner with Matt. Among a couple of others, she mentioned Alchemy- Josh Boutwood’s small beach front restaurant serving modern cuisine. I Google it and find a few blog entries about him and his food, and I am immediately intrigued by this 24-year-old chef who is marching to the beat of his own drum in a small Visayan resort town where grilled local dishes reign supreme and fast food franchises are growing in prominence. We correspond through e-mail- discussing Matt’s dietary restrictions (no pork and seafood, except fish, hold the ginger), me asking if I can bring bottles and him graciously waiving corkage (thanks to my association with Christine, of course)- and we agree on an eight-course menu which will only be revealed to us on the evening itself. Matt and I were naturally excited.

Alchemy is situated in the busy commercial area on White Beach, between boat stations 1 and 2. It is on the ground floor of a structure it shares with Ti Braz, with a neat bar area and seating for around 15-20 people inside, and a few more tables outside on the beach. The fresh, modern seaside décor- with its white plastered walls and psychedelic mural- would not be out of place in more progressive coastal cities like Miami, and the vibe is hip like a neighborhood joint in the East Village. We are welcomed by the bubbly and charming Janice and seated near the front of the resto. Chef Josh pops out of the kitchen to greet us, making sure he got the details right regarding what Matt can/not eat, then quickly returns to his work space. The staff is notably young, efficient and unobtrusive- just like the owner/chef.

To placate our growing hunger, we were given some potato bread and some brown butter served on an oyster shell. The butter had a fragrant, burnt flavor to it, like caramel. Matt, who adores good bread and has a renewed (long story) love for butter, is so enamored by the taste that he sent Janice to ask Chef Josh what was in it. Of course, like a true alchemist, he coyly refuses to reveal his formula.

The first course arrived atop two white pumice rocks- Raw Tuna, Dehydrated Tuna Roe, and Soy Jelly. Naturally, the raw fish and the strong, concentrated soy flavor was a solid match, a perfect opening number to a seaside dining event. Janice has begun pouring our champagne by then- a bottle of NV Delamotte that I have purchased from Premium Wine Exchange. I loved it, and Matt (who usually professes that he is not discerning when it comes to wines) loves it for its super crisp character and toasted bread notes.

My favorite dish came right after, which was the Mahi-mahi with Dill and Alugbati on top of Risotto. The sauce was the same butter served with the bread, and it was a fitting companion to the firm and hearty fish. I normally do not like mahi-mahi because- when overcooked- it could be dry and tasteless like cardboard. But this one was expertly prepared- the fish was moist and flaky, even buttery in the middle- and combined with the butter, the rich, creamy risotto and the ethereal dill, it was the dreamiest fish dish I have had in a while.

The next fish dish we had was also well-prepared- Red Snapper, Horseradish Puree, and Banana Heart. The fish was light and flaky, the outer skin seared to a crisp. I have only had banana heart in its most popular local preparation, which is stewed in coconut milk and ginger, but Chef Josh’s version is equally appreciated for its light creaminess and balanced seasoning. I believe this dish would have shined more if it was presented before the mahi-mahi, since the flavors were much lighter and more subtle. We also started pouring the ’95 Campillo Gran Reserva at this point, and although it was not a good match with the snapper, we started sipping it just because it was so darn good.

In between the fish courses and the meat courses was a peculiar one- Caramelized Onions doused in a light broth. I love onions- raw, battered and deep-fried, in soup- so I got what the chef was trying to do. Kind of. It was definitely aesthetically-appealing, with varying degrees of sweetness and texture. But, Matt was clearly puzzled by it, mumbling “What the f…?” even as we walked towards Juice Bar after dinner.

The fifth dish was Roast Native Chicken Breast on Top of Pickled Cabbage, with Popcorn and Baby Corn. From what I have picked up from the next table’s conversation, I believe it was supposed to be pork belly dish. I point this out to Matt and he is overcome with guilt. Although he does not eat pork, he is very much aware of how much I love this particular part of the pig. The chef, aware of Matt’s restricted diet, has substituted the fatty, delicious pork belly with chicken. Naturally, the end result was not the same, to say the least. Flavor-wise, the dish does not leave you wanting, but in terms of the natural moisture of the meat, the unctuousness of pork fat- you cannot replicate that with chicken.

The last savory dish was, in my opinion, also the most intricate, and truly showcases the chef’s technique and food philosophy- Braised Ox Tongue with an Assortment of Mushrooms and Vegetables. The tongue was mildly flavored, allowing the slight gaminess of the meat to come through; the accompanying vegetables were a play in sweetness (from the carrots), texture (from the popcorn) and umami (from the mushrooms). There was almost something whimsical and organic about this dish, almost like a tableau of what sustainable gastronomy (something the chef must have learned during his stint at Noma) is about.

Pre-dessert was a simple dish of Orange Pieces and Lemongrass Oil. Simple maybe, but highly beneficial in digestion, which I suspect is its main purpose. Matt, with his aversion to ginger, was not particularly fond of the spicy, heady lemongrass, which he found too strong a flavor for a dessert. Personally, I found it to be fragrant and cleansing.

Finally, dessert was served, and it was scrumptious- Cappuccino Ice Cream, Peanut Butter and Pound Cake Crumbs. Not too sweet, flavors balanced and complimentary- and everything was homemade. We’re impressed.

Matt and I chit-chatted a bit with the chef after our meal- who, by the way, does not like being called “chef” (“I never wear chef’s whites”, he points out, motioning towards his dark blue t-shirt and board shorts). While I enjoy his endearing British accent, I look upon this young man with the tremendous talent and confidence, and I found myself thinking, “Is this guy for real?” He comes to the Philippines after working in the best restaurant in world, decides to apply what he learned in his own restaurant, and sets-up shop- nope, not in a hotel, not in the ritzy Makati CBD- but on a beach in Aklan. Like a true alchemist who deals with elements in their purest form, I believe Josh Boutwood is truly in his element and likes to stay true to it- cooking the food that he is passionate about, in an environment where he can be who he truly is. In this state, he is able to create gastronomic masterpieces that provoke and amaze. And, as Matt mentioned, I can only imagine what the young chef could be capable of in the years to come.

Restaurant Alchemy
Between Boat Stations 1 & 2
(Beside Ti Braz Creperie & Bistro)
White Beach, Boracay Island
Mobile no. +639173041570
E-mail address: restaurant.alchemy@gmail.com

San Francisco in Six Courses

2011-09-25T13:52:00.006+08:00

I do not gamble. But, this time around, I just had a really good feeling. So I rolled the dice.

Based on his Facebook statuses, I figured a few months ago that San Francisco-based chef Christian Vecin was coming to Manila for a quick visit. I am particularly fond of the food porn he would post on his wall- mostly dishes he would prepare at Buon Appetito in San Mateo, California- so I have been curious about his food for some time now. Being the self-indulgent glutton that I am, I thought it would be in everybody’s best interest to have Chef Chris do a one-night-only dinner at No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill- a restaurant/bar that I co-own with my sisters, our husbands, and a cousin. So, without having tried his dishes, I invite Chef Chris to collaborate with us, based solely on a gut feeling that he loves food just as much as I do. That, in my opinion, is a better gauge for talent than any culinary degree or affiliation with a stuck-up resto.

Having been open for more than a year, No. 38 has become a popular spot in Makati for a laid-back night out with friends and live music. What a lot of people do not know is that we are just as serious about our food as throwing a good party. The Bay Area-themed dinner with Chef Chris was the perfect opportunity to show a different side to our establishment, which in essence is that other part of us that loves to sit down to a good meal.

No. 38’s dining tables and cocktail seating were decked out that night with black table cloths and pristine white napkins. The ambience was definitely still relaxed, but spiffy-d up for a proper dinner event. Personally, I loved it- it felt like I was looking at my teenage son (if I had one, that is)- in a freshly-ironed shirt, every strand of hair in place- before he goes off on his first date.

Food lovers and friends came to support the event, including some Manila-based friends and family of the chef. Matt and I were in one table with two friends from the press- Vince B. and Cesar C. It was fun being around people with the same love for food and who, like myself, understand that a good meal is not just about delicious food, but easy, delightful company as well. The conversations flowed naturally, and the light, fun banter pretty much captured the theme for the evening.

I advised the chef that he can start serving as soon as the early birds were settled (while sipping on their Kiamoy Martinis), and that the rest can be served their food as they arrive. The first course was a Roman Egg Drop Soup- chicken stock infused with egg and topped with grated parmesan. This was a wonderful starter- light in texture, but heavy in flavor. The broth was clean and devoid of greasiness, so all you get is the wonderful textural element from the tiny flecks of egg and the deep flavorful broth.

This play in texture and flavor are again expertly portrayed in the salad course, a Heart of Palms Salad- heart of palms, romaine lettuce, julienned dried mangoes, and homemade guava jelly vinaigrette. Once you have overcome the shock from the gargantuan portioning (something common with all of the dishes), you begin to appreciate the contrasts of sweet and tangy, crisp and chewy- a lovely homage to the tropics, yet something that resonates with the multi-cultural melting pot which is San Francisco.

My favorite dish of the evening- and currently my favorite fusion dish EVER- is the third course, the Tempura Tacos- tempura shrimp or kamote served in flour tortillas topped with honey chipotle aioli & crispy onion rings. I could have had three more of these, called it a night and would have been a happy camper. The tempura was light and crisp, and so were the onion strings. The inherent sweetness from the onions and honey complemented the shrimps, and the distinct spiciness from the chipotle gave the dish just the right amount of kick it needed. It was perfectly-balanced and yet so comforting in its familiarity- definitely one of those “Why-Did-I-Not-Think-of-That” moments. I still find myself dreaming about those tacos to this day.

I had to stop myself from finishing the second taco to save room for the dishes to come, but it was still not enough space for the fourth course, Baked Truffle Mac & Cheese- macaroni baked with a truffle three-cheese sauce (cheddar, smoked cheddar and parmesan). It came out in a big block, and I knew that there was no way I could finish it. I liked that the flavors were mild, and so was the truffle aroma, which tends to be overpowering when applied with a heavy hand. I believe the dish would have benefited from a little more baking, since the leftovers I took home tasted much better after I heated it in the oven.

Despite the groaning I heard from all around the dining room, we knew we still had the main course coming. We had a choice between the Pinot Noir Braised Short Ribs (served with garlic mashed potatoes) and the Homemade Butternut Squash Ravioli. Judging by the trend of the portioning, I knew Matt and I could eat off each other’s plates and still have food left over, so we got one of each. The short ribs, although tender and unctuous, fell a bit short on flavor. A little more braising would have done the trick, I believe, as the leftovers were once again tastier after reheating. Unfortunately, the ravioli was unsalvageable- the pasta was tough and dry, the filling bland.

However, whatever shortcomings the main dishes had were over-compensated by Chef Chris’ final salvo- The B-52 Brownie- a decadent three chocolate brownie infused with Khalua and Grand Marnier topped with Irish cream. Chef Chris originally wanted to whip the Irish cream, but our muggy kitchen made it impossible. This setback, however, did not stop this dessert from blowing us away (pun not intended)- the almost-flaky top shrouds a dense, moist, tender inside, while the liqueurs faintly flavor the coffee-enhanced chocolate, topped off by the light Irish cream. It was- hands down- the best brownie I have ever eaten.

Despite the hiccup with the main courses and the extra-large portions, the dinner was a success. I believe that Chef Chris was able to display the diversity of Bay Area cuisine and executing it with combined classical precision and casual ease. Thankfully, this particular gamble paid-off, and I am truly hoping that we would see more of this talented chef on local soil. The humble, down-to-earth guy that he is, Chef Chris shared the credit with our kitchen staff as well- headed by No. 38’s Chef Arnel- and points out that our guys definitely know what they’re doing.

Cesar C. called the event “a breath of fresh air” amidst the usual dinners they have had to attend (and these traditional writers get invited to a lot of them). He said it was a welcome break from the typical degustations in fine-dining settings where you cannot really just relax and show up in denims. Hearing that was a small victory in my part, having introduced this concept to No. 38 patrons while at the same time staying true to our persona as a cozy, laidback place where you can just be yourself. We will definitely be doing this again with other equally-talented young chefs, and like we always say, everybody’s invited.

No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill
114A Jupiter St. Bel-air 2
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 5191806

No. 38 is open for lunch on weekdays and serves a Mongolian lunch buffet at P320 net/head from 11am-2pm.

Ala Carte menu is available for lunch and dinner. Try our famous Awesome Nachos,Buffalo Wings, Disco Fries, Crispy Bulalo, Grilled Liempo and many more!

No. 38 is a great venue for private parties and corporate events. For inquiries, please call the number above.

Meeting the Meat: Reflections of a Carnivore

2011-09-01T14:03:00.004+08:00

I grew up on carnivorous excess, having been raised in a family that has no dietary restrictions. My early memories of fiestas in my father’s hometown in Quezon are pervaded by the panicked clucks and squeals of chickens and pigs being butchered. Baptisms and birthdays sometimes called for whole-roasted calf, and I was always a happy participant in devouring the tender, aromatic meat. There has always been a natural awareness that the meat being consumed was once a living, breathing creature, and there was nothing wrong with that. It was just the way things were.

The catalyst that spurred my musings was the killing of a goat during a trip to our island retreat. The animal belonged to my cousin Vic, whom I discovered has set-up a farm in one of their properties inland which included a growing legion of cattle, roosters and other livestock. It was decided, during the lambanog-laced conversations of the men during our first night’s dinner, that dinner the following night would be Caldereta (a rich tomato-based stew) made from freshly-butchered goat meat. The adventurous foodie in me was excited, having only tried goat a few times in my life.

The following morning, I wake up to sunny skies and go for a quick swim with my five-year-old niece, Nana (actually, it was low tide, so we did more of “wading” than “swimming”.) When we returned to the house, I go to the dining area to grab a piyaya and then I saw it- tied to a tree in the back of the house was a white goat. Its coat pristine, his three-inch horns jutting out of its small forehead, it looks placid and unperturbed, completely oblivious to his fate, I believed. My sister, Queen Bee, thought otherwise: “It knows it’s dying”, she says. True or not, we’ll never really know, but this small proclamation suddenly changes my entire perspective. The animal lover in me suddenly overpowered the unrelenting food lover, and I am suddenly filled with compassion. I cannot even bear to look at the goat, as I imagined it praying its final Hail Mary’s while it stared blankly into space. I turn around to leave as I thought to myself: “We’re all murderers.”

I have always rolled my eyes at most Westerners’ aversion to seeing their food in their original form before consuming it. In developed countries, it seems that people have gotten so used to seeing their meats and fish properly filleted and deboned, that the idea of seeing a chicken or fish head in a dish renders even the burliest man squeamish. This, as Nana would say, is just plain “silly”. I mean, do they really think there is a factory somewhere in Middle America where a giant Steak Machine churns out perfectly-cut rib-eyes, vacuum packed and then shipped to the nearest Wal-Mart? Or that the fillet of sole on their plate was swimming around the English Channel looking like that, minus the beurre blanc? Ok, fine, nobody could be that “silly” to actually think that, and yes, there are also culinary traditions in the West that remain rustic and accepting of traditional butchering and cooking methods. But the question remains: What’s the big deal?

Obviously, most Asians don’t seem to mind. The Chinese are happy to serve a beautifully-steamed Garoupa whole, to be deboned table side and then served (always) with the head intact, showcasing the prized fish cheeks, jaws and eyeballs. In several cultures, whole pigs roasted on a spit or cooked under dirt and coals are traditional festive fare. During Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” tour of the Philippines, foodie/author/restauranteur Claude Tayag and him were happily picking away at a goat’s head swimming in a bowl of flavorful broth at a kambingan in Pampanga.

But, after that chilling encounter with the live animal, there was a little voice inside of me that screamed, “Don’t let them kill the goat!” For the few moments after, I was almost sick to my stomach, wondering if what we were about to do was absolutely necessary- I mean, we brought enough food to feed our group for an entire week. Did we really need more meat? As I distracted myself with other things- a rousing game of Uno, some Spanish Rosado, more piyaya- I see the house staff gathering at the back of the house, and I knew what was coming. I heard the goat protesting at first, and then its agonizing cries as it struggles for breath. And then it was over. Soon, I hear the matador’s machete striking against stone as it butchered the goat by the poso.

Do not get me wrong- I am not about to go vegan, or any level of vegetarianism. But, there is a sudden reverence for animal life that was not there before. I have always loved animals, but the fluffy kind, or the ones you find at the zoo. To me, livestock was different, and they were meant to be in my belly. But, seeing that goat before it was butchered truly struck a cord, and I am somehow less jaded and callous. I still think people who cannot eat fish with heads are silly, but at least I know now not to scoff at those who cannot slaughter their own dinner.

After the goat-killing drama, dinner set me back to my old perspective- which is, meat is awesome. The calereta- cooked by the butcher himself- was exactly what I imagined it to be: a spicy, robust sauce perfectly complimenting the tender and mildy-gamey meat. The little bones are easily picked off the soft tendons and the meat is juicy and tender. It was excellent. Being the drama queen that I could be, I declare with mock conviction, “The goat did not die in vain.” My dad gags at the joke, rice kernels almost shooting out of his nose, but I was only half kidding.

There were no (more) goats harmed during the writing of this entry. The photo of the live goat is from true-wildlife.blogspot.com and is not the actual goat butchered for the caldereta. It looks like it, though.

Cupcakes for the Pain

2011-07-30T12:44:00.002+08:00

A week ago, I was diagnosed with an ectopic pregnancy.

Two weeks before that, I already knew I was pregnant. We have been trying for a few months, after all, so after being delayed for a week, I was excited/scared to take a home-kit pregnancy test. When the two lines indicating a positive result appeared, I was beyond elated. I wake up a sleeping Matt to tell him, who was jubilant as any half-awake person could possibly be.

Announcements were made tentatively, beginning with immediate family. As the reality slowly set in, everyday our excitement built-up, and it became harder and harder to keep it under wraps. We began telling our closest friends, wanting to share the good news of this amazing blessing.

But, during my first ultrasound, we received some crushing news. I remember it vividly- the technician (also a doctor, but not my OB) said, "Yes, you are pregnant. But we have a problem." My heart immediately jumped up to my throat, I looked helplessly at Matt and my mom, who both looked equally perplexed.

The uterus is empty, she pointed out, and she shifted the ultrasound towards the left, and pointed with the cursor where the sac is embedded. The fertilized egg attached itself to the widest part of the left Fallopian tube, whereas it should have continued its journey down the tube and attached itself to the thickened lining of the uterus. The technician then points at the center of the sac where you could see what looks like a blinking white light. It was the fetus' little heart, beating.

An ectopic pregnancy is probably one of life's biggest sucker punches- at the height of all the elation and excitement, you are suddenly told, "nope, sorry, it's not going to happen." A ruptured tube from an ectopic pregnancy can cause internal bleeding, and even lead to the mother's death. I cannot even articulate the devastation of being given the most beautiful gift, only to be told later on that there is no way in the world I can keep it. It all began to sink in on the car ride home, where Matt and I finally broke down, sobbing quietly, as we sought solace in each other's arms.

We got a second ultrasound the following morning in another hospital, which yielded the same result, and then everything happened so fast after that. My doctor instructed me to have myself admitted at noon for a laparoscopy, saying that delaying the surgery would only increase the risk of rupture. And based on my research, that is the last thing I want to happen at that point- it would lead to intense pain and also call for a more complicated procedure. My surgery was scheduled for 5PM and I remember being wheeled into the OR at exactly 5:30PM. The anesthesiologist gave me a first shot which was meant to sedate me- "like being drunk on Patron", she joked. The second shot I felt running up my arm from the IV, and before the feeling hit my shoulder, I was knocked out.

The procedure usually lasts four hours, the nurses told us. Mine was done in a little over an hour and a half.

Laparoscopy allows the surgeon to explore and perform surgery with the aid of a thin, tiny camera and minuscule incisions. The doctor made a small slice on my left fallopian tube, and then scooped out the "growth". The blocks on the tube were caused by endometrial growths, which she also found on the right tube and behind the uterus. The cause of endometriosis is unknown, but there are several theories. Whatever it is, mine was finally discovered and dealt with, and now it's gone. "I fixed all that needed to be fixed, to prepare for your next pregnancies," my doctor reassured me. I find consolation in the fact that at least all my parts are still there- my tubes and ovaries intact. At least.

After two nights at the hospital, I go home to continue my recuperation. I discovered that painkillers are good for the actual "surgical pain", but not the stomach cramps from gas. That was where most of the discomfort came from. The best cure for it was to move around- roll from side to side, or get up and walk around a bit, even if it hurt. I never would have imagined farts to be such a precious commodity, but at that point they were. Now, I'm still taking it easy, spending most of my time off my feet. I sometimes forget that although minor, I just had a surgical procedure performed on me, and I should allow my body ample time to heal. I am very thankful that I have that luxury, since not all women can stay in bed for a week or more.

All this free time allows me to be introspective and see the beauty in the midst of my misery. The love and support from family and friends have been overwhelming, and even up to now I would cry alternately out of both sadness and joy. I am thankful that my condition was diagnosed early on, allowing my doctor to act quickly and perform the surgery at record time. It really could have been a lot worse, I realize that now. And on that note, I'm just so lucky to have had an exceptional doctor and the best healthcare. St. Luke's Medical Center at Fort Global is an excellent hospital (Matt described it as "very first-world") and I hope that we could find a way in the near future for this kind of medical care to be made available to everyone.

More importantly, this experience brought my relationship with my husband to a different level, adding a different dimension and greater depth. I feel so close to him now, and seeing how he handled himself throughout this ordeal made me appreciate him even more. He is a strong and loving person, and he will make an amazing father when the time finally comes.

So, to get myself through this, I have put myself on a high-sugar diet. The first morning at home, back from the hospital, I was feasting on my niece's goodie bag (she celebrated her 5th birthday the same day of my surgery): breakfast was Reese's chocolate peanut butter cups, bite-sized Milky Way bars and Gummy Bears. Flipping through my sister's cupcake cookbooks brought on a different craving, which my husband was only too happy to indulge- the day before our anniversary (which we had to celebrate at home) he surprised me with four gorgeous cupcakes from Sonja's, two of which were my favorite Red Velvet.

No, cupcakes do not cure a broken heart, but they remind you of happier times and better things. These situations tend to reinforce the presence of a Higher Being, and- as cliche as it may sound- that things happen for a reason. And I believe that. I have to. Because- despite cupcakes not having any curative properties- they are good. And all will be good.

Note: The rate of ectopic pregnancies have risen over the years- currently, it is 1 out of 50. It is the number one cause of deaths for mothers during the first trimester. If you think you are pregnant, a trans-vaginal ultrasound could confirm if the pregnancy is in utero or otherwise. Do not delay treatment or surgery- talk to your OB about your options. Remember: the sooner the diagnosis and treatment, the better the results.

Doing the Ilonggo Chicken Dance

2011-07-01T09:07:00.004+08:00

I don’t know how it all started or where it came from. But the craving just suddenly hit me. And it hit me hard.

For a week I was going crazy over everything Ilonggo- La Paz batchoy, Casa Carmela’s pitaw (bottled snipe cooked adobo-style), and chicken inasal. Good friend and fellow foodie Cookie Goddess picked up on my obsession and said that we had to try this inasal place in Quezon City. I am known to travel long distances for food, so lunch in the not-too-far north was not such a bad idea.

One stormy day, I carpool with Cookie Goddess and Mrs. G-Ro to Bacolod Chicken Parilla. Parilla is what they call grilled meats in Argentina. Every part of the cow (which is king in Argentina) is used, so do not be surprised when you see intestines, tongue and even penis (!) in the open charcoal pit. But Bacolod Chicken Parilla is obviously about the Philippine’s poultry of choice, with statistics showing that Pinoy’s consume 500,000 tons of chicken a year. The Ilonggos, I have discovered, can cook it like the best of them, and that is why I felt the need to brave flood waters to have a taste of what seems to be the Scout area’s best kept secret.

We spot a table in the air-conditioned area and promptly place our orders. I admire the sauce bottles filled with vinegar, soy sauce and chicken oil, and I know that I’m in for a multi-sensory treat.

As soon as the garlic rice was placed on the table, our chatter suddenly stops, knowing that we are only moments away from inasal heaven.

We ordered a plate of liempo, simply because we love pig and would want to see how Parilla does theirs. It was a bit anti-climactic, I must admit, knowing that we have all had better grilled pork belly. So again, we wait impatiently for what we came here for. (Actually, we didn’t wait long- maybe all of 10 minutes. But we were hungry beasts, so it felt like forever.)

Finally, the plate piled high with grilled paa (chicken leg quarters) arrived. Beautifully charred in the edges by hot charcoals, the flesh is juicy and a healthy orange from the achuete oil. We all dig in, soaking the inasal and rice with chicken oil. I take a bite of the chicken, without dipping sauce first, appreciating the perfectly-balanced marinade that flavored the meat- the aromatic garlic, a little zing from the ginger, and a slight tanginess at the end from the vinegar. All the strong flavors were blending seamlessly together, but not in an overpowering way that the grilled chicken gets lost in it.

As we devoured the paa, the plate of random chicken parts we ordered was placed down on the table- atay (liver), baticolon (gizzard) and isol (butt). My family knows how much I love chicken butt, and more often than not it is immediately offered to me when we share a whole roast chicken. Parilla’s has a glistening, crisp skin, a fitting case for the juicy, fatty inside. If you have not tried chicken butt, it comes pretty close to beef bone marrow in terms of richness. That’s all you need to know. The baticolon was just alright for me- it had the texture of a silicon swimming cap, something that I don’t normally chew on. People who are into it love it, though, and I bet they will like Parilla’s. The liver, too, is something I enjoyed- simply because I love liver.

I brought home some paa and Kansi (Ilonggo-style bulalo) for Matt, and he loved the food as much as we did. He admits, though, that if I did not tell him I got it from Parilla, he initially thought the chicken came from JT’s Manukan (which we have had on several occasions, and we just had delivered a few days prior). In my non-expert opinion, I do think that Parilla (along with JT’s) is one of the best chicken inasal I have tried in Manila.

Great. This craving thing has just become a vicious cycle.

Bacolod Chicken Parilla
Sct. Gandia cor. Sct. Reyes Sts.
Quezon City
Tel. no. (632) 371 8522

Brunch-ing Manila: Masseto

2011-06-22T22:13:00.010+08:00

I love brunch, I really do. I just realized that I actually partake of it quite often, although it’s not always about perfectly-poached eggs and bottomless pours of bubbly. Most days they are just literally the meal I consume when it’s too late for breakfast and it’s just about noon- it could be anything from a ham and cheese omelet with a slice of whole wheat toast, to “freshly-made” Nissin Cup Noodles. Yes, these are my realities- sometimes I just have to eat what is easy and what is “there” (or what can easily be prepared with a massive hangover).

So, one Friday, Matt and I decided to stay in so we can have a proper weekend brunch the next day. While browsing through the net, I discover through Masseto’s website that they actually have a brunch menu. This upscale restaurant with the beautiful interiors and accomplished chef is typically the venue of choice during special occasions of Manila’s posh crowd, so I was delighted to see that their brunch items are actually reasonably-priced. For Matt, the deal-maker was the first item on the menu- Corned Beef Benedict. “Book it,” he said. If you think I’ll say no to that, you must be crazy.

The next day, we arrive at a nice, quiet resto, just a few servers spiffying up the place, while my hubby and I were enjoying the polished but comfortable surroundings. As we waited for our good friends Sanj and Cutie to arrive, we order some refreshments and an appetizer- a Bloody Mary for me, freshly-squeezed OJ for Matt and Chanterelles with Egg en Cocotte (one of their specials) to share. When our companions arrived, they requested for the same drinks. Sanj- quite the Bloody Mary aficionado- noticed that his drink needed a little more kick, so he requested for an additional dash of Tabasco. I should have done the same, but was halfway through my own drink that I decided to just go with what I got. Thinking back, I guess I should have- I would have definitely enjoyed it more. Remind me to be more demanding when it comes to my cocktails.

The Chanterelles and Egg en Cocotte was a light but flavorful start- the aromatic, meaty mushrooms beautifully-framed with the richness of the barely-cooked egg. It is simple but mystifying, even without the suggested shavings of black truffle (which was in season, along with the chanterelles).

My dish was the Pancetta, Gruyere and Shallots Frittata with Salad Greens, which sounds like a mouthful and I was expecting it to be. It was just alright for me, since the dish left me wanting- not just because it was quite minuscule (by my standards, at least), but also because I would have wanted to bite into little chunks of pancetta and bits of shallot, and maybe get a taste of melted, stringy gruyere. The ingredients seem to have liquefied into the egg (which, at least, was nicely puffed and airy) and I was left with just a nuance.

Fortunately, Matt was very happy with the Corned Beef Benedict. He offered me a bite and I loved the combination of the soft, flaky beef with the unctuous, runny yolk. I will never exchange the traditional ham for corned beef, but this a great alternative for those who do not eat pork.

Cutie ordered a starter as her main- the Chanterelles Puff, Jamon Serrano and Mixed Greens. It was a wonderful showcase of the ingredient in season, with the chanterelles being allowed to shine.

But, the hands-down favorite- without a shadow of a doubt- was Sanj’s dish- the Poached Eggs, Bacon, Mushrooms, Red Wine Sauce and Hollandaise. (Sanj requested for the bacon to be replaced with another cured meat, and Chef Tippi Tambunting- without batting an eyelash- suggested Jamon Serrano. No problemo.) One perfect bite (actually, I believe I had two)- a piece of bread, soaked in warm egg yolk, with a bit of flavorful mushroom, salty jamon, and the rich, mouth-filling flavors of the two sauces combined- is enough to render everyone speechless. This dish- and I rarely say this, if I do at all- is pure genius. I will happily walk the sizeable distance (fine, it’s probably just a kilometer) from my condo to Masseto for this dish.

True, there are quite a number of restaurants out there who offer better value for money, but Masseto has never been for the thrifty. The experience of dining on good food in the midst of beautiful things- on a gorgeous Saturday, with beloved friends- is definitely something that you should do once in a while. It’s good for your soul, someone once said. I believe it.

Masseto
SB Card Bldg., Mezzanine
114 Valero St. Salcedo Village
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 810 3565
338 0929
Website: http://www.masseto.com.ph/

This Chihuahua's Got Cojones

2011-06-16T18:00:00.008+08:00

Funny how just five years ago, I remember noticing a void in Manila’s foodscape and found myself asking: Where did all the Mexican restaurants go?

I have been alive long enough to see how the common Pinoy’s fascination with Mexican food has evolved. The early incarnations were nothing great- quite edible but never beyond mediocre, to say the least. These Mexican joints of the 80’s and 90’s were mostly either dark, cavernous drinking spots, which are actually more popular for their pitchers of Zombie than their food (think Tia Maria’s), or small fast-food-type stalls that churn out soft tacos with microwaved ground beef (think Miggy’s). With globalization acting like a nuclear bomb, our exposure to what is deemed to be proper Mexican (or its half-breed cousins, Baja-style and Tex-Mex) virtually wiped out Mexican food as we knew it. We began looking to the American franchises as the benchmarks for what Mexican food should be- Friday’s fajitas, Taco Bell’s soft tacos and Chili’s Margaritas.

But any self-respecting Mexican food lover would soon realize that these bastardized recipes are not the real deal, not even close. Soon enough, even the dizzying allure of Chili’s softball-sized sour cream just does not cut it.

Enter the new breed of Manila’s Mexican restaurants. Mostly run by actual Mexicans or Filipino balikbayans, these restauranteurs claim to know what real Mexican food should look, smell and taste like. Terms like “carne asada”, “chipotlé” and “molé” have now become part of the local vocabulary, having been introduced as some of the major components in Mexican cuisine that we previously knew nothing about. Every newly-opened Mexican joint promised to be more authentic than the last, offering something fresh and exciting that Manila’s food addicts have never seen before.

Chihuahua Mexican Grill is part of the Mexican “boom” that has infiltrated the metro. Owners Elian and Ines are prominent personalities in the local food industry, having published a coffee table book together called Manila’s Best-Kept Restaurant Secrets, and each doing their own thing that keeps them constantly in the scene. It’s always fun bumping into them at food and wine events, with their animated storytelling and easy-going personalities. It is almost no surprise that they have decided to open a Mexican resto since I imagine them being perfectly at home in the middle of a crazy tequila-laced fiesta.

The food is decidedly Tex-Mex (Elian, although of Lebanese descent, grew up Texan), so the food is quite familiar. The difference lies, I believe, in how these simple dishes were prepared.

The Nacho Grande, for instance, although served in a utilitarian stainless mixing bowl, is out-of-this-world- crisp corn tortillas topped generously with chili con carne, sour cream, pico de gallo, guacamole, jalapeños and cheese. It doesn’t matter if the chip you got had more chili than guac, or more salsa than sour cream. Every inch of that bowl was packed with flavor, and I had to restrain myself from finishing the entire bowl on my own.

Matt and I shared the basket of tacos, which came in threes. The chopped chicken and pork came topped with pico de gallo, shredded lettuce and sour cream. If it looks spare, no need to worry- take a pit stop at the salsa station and you are free to load it up with as much sauce as you wish. There is also a selection of hot sauces to choose from, but I believe only a few bottles are opened at a time.

Although the tacos weren’t my numero uno dish, it was not lacking in flavor, therefore I could not help but enjoy the tacos nonetheless. The fresh habañero salsa was spot-on and gave the dish the kick it needed.

The burrito bowl with grilled chicken is another dish I liked a lot- I loved the moist, aromatic rice and the dense texture of the refried beans.

Something that is a universal favorite is the steak burrito, which my friends and I are hooked on. The thinly-sliced beef is tender and tasty, and the burrito as a whole is deliciously moist. This I will order for myself on my next visit. No sharing, Matt.

And, of course, a self-professed lush cannot step foot into a Mexican joint and not have a Margarita. A good one, in my opinion, has to be strong and tart- Chihuahua’s version delivers on both counts. Their frozen Margaritas have quite the knock-out punch, and even I- quite the ‘rita expert- had to restrain myself from ordering more than one since I did not want to lose that delicious dinner. It was hard to hold back, though, because those things are pretty darn good.

Another thing that is so awesome about this place is that they are open until the wee hours. So, those looking for a Mexican fix after a drinking binge in Makati can happily munch on a burrito at 3AM.

From the onset, Chihuahua seems to have all the components that make a successful Mexican resto- deliciously-potent Margaritas, addicting bowl of nachos, familiar and tasty dishes done right. These guys know what they’re doing and I believe the good food and the little details- special hot sauces, Mexican-sized (yes, they are almost the height of an actual Mexican) tequila shots- are those things that will keep people coming back. I, for one, am one of those people cheering them on, because God knows we all need a burrito at 3AM once in a while.

Chuhuahua Mexican Grill
7838 Makati Ave. (right across A.Venue)
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 897 0087

Life is Sweet

2011-06-07T15:05:00.005+08:00

The Dallas Mavericks just won the Western Conference Finals so Matt felt like celebrating. And to the biggest Mavs fan in Manila, nothing enhances the sweet smell of victory more than pizza, beef ribs and ice cream. And I knew just where to take him.

Unfortunately, the pizza and beef ribs at the restaurant we ate at were quite forgettable. They were not bad, and Matt was happy to have found a place where he can eat decent beef ribs in a country ruled by pork, but not really worthy of a recommendation. So, immediately after settling the bill, and with the fervor of a woman on a mission, I take my husband by the hand and make the short walk to Bar Dolci.

A few days before, after a sumptuous seafood dinner at Seaside Macapagal, Sanj and Cutie introduced me to this dessert haven/café. The second you walk in you somehow feel ten times hipper- everything is shiny and bright and delightful. The orange acrylic walls covered with scribbled names of regulars, the brightly-lit glass cases housing freshly-baked scones and pizza bruschettas, the pricey-looking espresso machine behind the counter, and over a dozen flavors of gelato- these guys are not playing around. Having already had dessert before we went there, I did not purchase anything. But, right there and then, I vowed to return with Matt.

Fast forward to dinner with Matt- we walk into Bar Dolci, and I watch my husband’s eyes widen as he sees the cornucopia of gelato flavors. There’s something for everyone: Stracciatella, Pistachio and Chocolate for the classicist; Tiramisu, Salted Caramel and Mango Mumbai for the adventurous. I leave Matt to ponder over his sweet predicament, as I zero-in on the Salted Caramel. I grab my cup and head up to the comfortable couch area upstairs.

The gelato at Bar Dolci is rich and smooth, as it should be. This Italian-style ice cream has a higher sugar content than most ice creams which acts as an anti-freeze to prevent the gelato from freezing solid. That gives you a more velvety texture, as opposed to other ice creams that do end up developing ice crystals. Aside from the consistency, gelato was way ahead of the pack in developing exotic and avant-garde flavors. From the two visits I have made with Matt, some memorable flavors I have spotted are the Walnut Torte and White Chocolate Wasabi.

Baked goodies do not play second fiddle in Bar Dolci, as their scrumptious sweet and savory scones have proven. One glass case is dedicated solely to their brightly-colored Macarons (a sweet and airy French confection made of egg whites and sugar), which is innovatively used in one of their frozen delights as a sort of ice cream sandwich.

On our next visit, I will surely have to try one of their alco-popsicles, which are displayed like prized trophies in a custom-made glass freezer. I had a bite of Mark V.’s Strawberry Daiquiri from my first visit, and the texture is again unlike the commercial stuff- the microscopic ice granules are more creamy than frozen, almost like a good cocktail fresh out of an industrial blender. Amazing stuff.

Bar Dolci
Forbeswood Heights cor. Burgos Circle
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. no. (632) 8468245

BILF: Burger I'd Love to F...

2011-05-30T21:48:00.011+08:00

This is definitely not one of my proudest moments. Maybe my parents shouldn’t even read this entry. But, there is just no other way to describe it.

They call it the Chef’s Burger at Elbert’s Steak Room. My friends and I have since dubbed it “Sex in a Bun”.

After it seduced me upon seeing it on Spot.Ph’s Top 10 list of Manila’s best gourmet burgers (on the top spot, no less), I knew I just had to have it. It didn’t take a lot of convincing for my equally-carnivorous friends (Mrs. G-Ro, Morx and Cookie Goddess- who has had it before, but just had to have another round), and so the day was set. The deal with this burger is that it is only offered during lunch, and you have to call at least two days ahead. So, among the four of us, we decided to order two Chef’s Burgers, and we will order two more dishes from the menu.

Let’s get it on.

We were seated on a nice table by the window, the tinted pane just letting enough sunlight in to bathe us in a warm glow. The dining room had the essentials you would expect from a steak place- beautiful wooden floors, light ochre walls, crisp white table cloths, hushed music emanating from space-agey Philippe Starck speakers. It felt plush without being flamboyant, masculine without being butch. Sexy.

Since the others were not having wine, I just ordered a glass of Argento Malbec 2010 from Mendoza, Argentina (Note: Above is a photo of the wine, with a very alluring Cookie Goddess). Tita Irene gave us three bottles (one for each of us sisters) of this wine one Christmas, although an earlier vintage, naturally. Since then it has become one of my favorite go-to wines which pairs perfectly with grilled meats. Upon first swig, the 2010 seemed a bit thin and overtly-acidic. It is quite young after all, so I thought maybe I should just leave it be for a few minutes.

The salads came- every meat lover’s purgatory before the ascent to rapture. The fresh greens were joined by a few slivers of red peppers, white onions and pert cherry tomatoes. A light sesame dressing coats and flavors the salad perfectly.

Then comes what I jokingly called our “first course”- a shared order of Prime Rib, English Cut. The three thin slices of prime rib were divided into three plates, each having a reasonable dollop of truffle mashed potato and a cherry tomato garnish. This came with the usual condiments of horseradish cream and jus. If I did not have another meat dish coming I would have been perfectly happy with this one. The meat was perfectly medium-rare- soft, moist, gloriously-enhanced by the flavorful jus. If I must nitpick, I would have preferred a little bit more kick from the horseradish. But, that’s just my personal preference.

Finally, the dish that had us panting like wild cats arrived- the Chef’s Burger. Hand-chopped Angus beef blended with- pass the tissue- little bits of brined bone marrow, adorned simply with lettuce, tomatoes and caramelized onions, in a crackled, freshly-baked bun. Accompanying this sex bomb of a burger is a healthy helping of fries cooked in duck fat and a blue cheese dipping sauce. Upon first bite, you don’t immediately get the bone marrow. What hits you primarily is the meaty, full-bodied taste of premium American beef. And then, that heady richness (“unctuous”, Morx offers) you get from glorious fat creeps up to your taste buds and moves you to gently close your eyes, moaning in pure pleasure. We look at each other meaningfully, saying things that our fathers would not approve of. It didn’t bother us that Elbert was a few feet away having a meeting with what I suspected to be a Lichaytoo brother. We could not help ourselves. And the wine? It has opened up beautifully by then- velvety and mouth-coating, vivacious and buck-wild. A worthy companion to the burger, no doubt.

I was so immersed in devouring my burger that I was not able to try Cookie Goddess' equally- freakable Open-faced Roast Beef Sandwich. Someday I will have my way with that sandwich, I just know it.

Wasted and satisfied, it was almost a sin to continue on to dessert. But, then again, we were thinking: Why stop now? Besides, the desserts came with the meal, and we were served one of each to share- Chocolate Mousse, Marble Cheesecake, Mango Pannacota and Chocolate Cake. They were quite enjoyable- especially the Chocolate Mousse- and more so with some excellent Lavazza coffee.

Finally, after our "dirty deed", we do our “Walk of Shame” to Cookie Goddess’ car as Morx and I share a cigarette. The only thing missing at that point is French music in the background and runny mascara.

Elbert’s Steak Room
3/F Sagitarius Bldg. III
H.V. Dela Costa St.
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 339 3363
(632) 5198665

Making Baja-Style Fish Tacos

2011-05-20T13:36:00.005+08:00

I wake up one morning and see that my mom has sent me an early text message. In a nutshell, it’s reminding me that I have a bag of avocados in the kitchen and I should do something (anything!) with them before they go bad. These avocados came from a very fertile tree in the family compound in Antipolo where my sisters and I grew up.

Now that I am living in a concrete jungle, I miss those days when we could get fresh fruits from our own (and our neighbors’… Tee hee.) backyard. Fruit trees were abundant- Santol, Kaimito, Mango, Kasuy, Macopa, Guava, Kamias- and all we had to do was have the gardener bring out his stylized fruit-picking stick and tug away at whatever fruit was in season. Luckily, an uncle who still lives there makes sure that everyone in the family gets their share of the season’s harvests. And, luckily, there were enough avocados during the last harvest to go around.

So, what does a Mexican food lover do when life gives her a bag of avocados? She makes guacamole, of course! And, after weighing the different levels of difficulty of my favorite Mexican dishes in my head, I decide that I would attempt to make my favorite taco of the moment- Baja-style Fish Tacos.

Baja is on the coast of Southern California and very close to the San Diego-Mexico border. I’ve never been, but I’m pretty sure its proximity to the border makes it a hot-spot for good Mexican grub. The first time I tried this dish was in Baja Mexican Cantina in Greenbelt 3, and I immediately fell in love with the crispy, beer-battered crust, the pungent sauce, and the textural element of the sliced cabbage.

As I did my research for what should be authentic Baja fish tacos, I discovered that the ones at Baja Mexican Cantina are pretty spot on. But, as any popular dish goes, there are a few variations here and there. The standard recipe is pretty straight-forward and composed of four components from the bottom, up- 1) soft flour or corn tortilla, 2) battered and fried fish, 3)white sauce, and 4)fresh sliced cabbage. Some cooks who prefer a more subtle flavor for the fish opt for a cornmeal crust, but I personally like beer-battered food so I decide to roll with it. (For a lighter beer taste, I decided to use San Mig Light) A popular addition to the standard recipe is either a topper of fresh pico de gallo salsa or guacamole. And, if you are a master of the obvious, you would know what I decided to include in my recipe.

So, as you can see, there are no hard rules on how to make YOUR perfect taco. The beauty of Mexican food is that there are a myriad of spices, salsas, herbs and seasonings that you can add or remove to make your taco your own. Go mild or go wild… It’s your choice. Everyone seems to be a Mexican food expert these days (Yes, douchebag, I’m talking about YOU), but do not let them tell you what to do.

Anyway, it’s fiesta time.

Baja-style Fish Tacos (serves 4)

Ingredients:
2 Cream Dory (or any white fish) fillets, approximately 300 g. each
3 cups vegetable oil
½ cup all-purpose flour
8 flour tortillas
½ a head of cabbage, sliced thin
1 lime, cut into wedges
A few sprigs of cilantro, for garnish
Hot sauce (optional)

Batter:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 egg, beaten
1 bottle of light pilsner
2 teaspoons salt

White Sauce:
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon Spanish paprika

Guacamole (optional):
2 medium avocados, cubed
1 medium red onion, finely-diced
3 cloves garlic, finely-minced
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
2 small tomatoes, finely-diced
½ lime
Salt and pepper

To make the Guacamole:
- In a medium bowl, pile on the avocados, red onions, garlic and tomatoes.
- Sprinkle cilantro over the mix and squeeze the lime into it, careful not to drop in the seeds. Season with salt and pepper. Mix vigorously until there is a nice creamy consistency, but still chunky.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the white sauce:
- In a medium bowl, mix all the ingredients together.
- Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

To make the beer batter:
- In a medium mixing bowl, put the dry ingredients (flour, salt and cornstarch) in and mix well. Add in the beer and egg. Mix everything together until well-integrated. (Do not worry about the small lumps, they won’t affect the quality of the crust.)

Cooking the fish:
- Heat the oil in a medium pot (make sure the oil is at least 2 inches high) over a medium-high fire. When you start seeing little ripples in the oil, you’re there.
- Slice the Cream Dory fillets into four equal parts, leaving you with eight pieces.
- Dredge the fish in flour, dunk them into the batter, and into the fryer. Cook the fish 2-3 pieces at the time to maintain the temperature of the oil. It takes around 2-3 minutes for the fish to fry, depending on its thickness. A nice golden coat is usually a good indication that its ready.

To heat the flour tortillas:
- The easiest way is to pile all eight tortillas on top of each other on a microwaveable plate, cover with a paper towel, and heat at “high” for 45 seconds.

Assembly is easy and fun. Just lay out two flour tortillas on a plate, top with one fish each, drizzle on some white sauce and top with some cabbage. Since I like cilantro, I put a few sprigs of it on top of the tacos with a couple wedges of lime as a garnish. And, of course, we should not forget the condiment containing the prized ingredient that started this all- a nice dollop of freshly-made guacamole on the side of the plate.

Vamos a comer!

Champetre: The Sequel to a Love Story

2011-05-17T13:34:00.005+08:00

I didn’t always love Marc Aubry and his food. There. I said it.

It may be difficult to imagine that now, especially if you are one of the many who had to endure my constant gushing and drooling over Marc’s country-style French cooking. For many years now, I have acted as his voluntary crusader (one of the many, naturally) in spreading the word about his down-to earth, authentic French dishes, even turning skeptical rice-eaters into die-hard, foie-gras-devouring, escargot-slurping fans. So, to finally admit, after many years of pledging allegiance to the House of Aubry, that there was a moment in time when I did not LOVE Marc’s food, it’s almost impossible to comprehend.

But, yes, my love affair with Marc’s food had a shaky beginning. Like the tried-and-tested plot of a good romantic comedy, the dusky heroine was not immediately smitten with the dashing hero. Admittedly, I was a late bloomer when it came to French cuisine, so on my first visit to Marc’s old resto, Je Suis Gourmand, I ignorantly ordered a plate of pasta. I remember my young, rugged palate was not too fond of the strong Gorgonzola-laced sauce, and I rolled my eyes thinking, “What’s all the fuss about?” Je Suis Gourmand (JSG), after all, was the talk of the town- getting a table without a reservation was impossible, and the clientele was Manila’s posh and polished set. But, when the tall and sleek chef- his eyebrows raised, his perfectly-trimmed mustache framing his pursed lips- approached us and asked about our food, what he got was a lukewarm reception from the group of rowdy college kids. I remember loving the “pate”, which I thought was the best thing I ever spread on Melba toast. (Later on, I would discover that the “pate” is actually Marc’s legendary foie gras terrine.) So, even if I thought the food was “whatever” and the chef was “duh” (and I bet the feeling was mutual), I just had to go back for more.

I no longer remember if it was my second or third visit, but the story takes an interesting turn when I discover the dish that would get me hooked on Marc’s cooking- Braised Veal Cheeks Bourgouignon. The startlingly-soft chunks of veal, bathed in a sauce that is dark, meaty and complex, was a revelation, and it changed the way I saw French food forever. Until then, in my mind, dining on French cuisine was an affectation- something people do when they want to show-off to their in-laws or get themselves laid. Those veal cheeks made me realize that French food is not only celebrated with good reason, but surprisingly familiar- “familiar” in a sense that it is comforting, even reassuring. That unassuming brown sauce told me- in a creepy, Winona-Ryder-crazy way- that in another part of the world, a young girl is eating the very same dish in her Maman’s kitchen.

And, just like that part in the movie when they start playing Journey in the background and the hero is bathed in a magical ray of sunlight- I was suddenly, deeply, madly in love.

Years later, with Je Suis Gourmand gone, this love affair continues with Marc’s new restaurant- Champetre. Meaning “pastoral” or “country”, it captures the true essence of Marc’s style of cooking- hearty, for sure, using the best ingredients, with sauces given the utmost love and attention until the deepest and most fundamental flavors are conjured. The restaurant now includes a boutique where epicures can buy goodies- sauces, preserves, cheeses, wines, among other things- to be enjoyed at home.

Dinner with friends at Champetre had us waxing nostalgic over our Je Suis Gourmand favorites- we began with orders of Steak Tartare (not on the menu, but Marc prepares it when we request for it beforehand), Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Toasts and Salad and Baked Escargots Bourgoignonne with Garlic Bread. We had these starters with glasses of Cremant I purchased from Blue Frog last year and Bott-Geyl Pinot Gris Les Elements 2006. The former’s crisp, yeasty character went famously well with the steak tartare and escargots, while the heady pear and honey aromas of the pinot gris was perfect with the Foie. I’m not a master at wine pairing, but this was practically a no-brainer.

Our two orders of steak tartare were wiped out in minutes. The tender, chopped raw beef was perfectly seasoned and enhanced with onions and capers. Nicely creamy and full of bold flavors.

The Foie Gras Terrine was its usual, beautiful self, with its smooth and rich texture coupled with the sweet, nutty flavors associated with foie. Truly life-changing stuff.

Nothing says French food more than escargots, and Marc’s pretty little snails are a must-try. He serves it baked with an aromatic butter and matched with an addicting slice of garlic bread.

For my main course, I decided on having the Champetre Pork Cassoulet cooked in Duck Fat. The dish is definitely “country”- the baked beans hearty and rich, intermingling with the flavors of the boudin blanc (white pork sausages), slices of pork and duck.

Matt and Cookie Goddess shared the Algerien Style Couscous (good for two)- a dish that Marc used to serve on special days at JSG and is now made part of the regular menu. The couscous is topped with succulent lamb chops and homemade Merguez sausages. It comes with a bowl of broth that you ladle over the couscous. This dish has its own cult following, so I do not need to stress how good this is.

I got to try Sanj’s Roasted Veal Kidney Dijonaise with Fries and Salad- another JSG classic. The mustard sauce nicely-masked any gamey-ness from the offal, leaving you to enjoy the pleasant texture of the kidney with another one of Marc’s famous sauces. I tried to quickly take a picture, although Sanj was already halfway through it just a couple of minutes after the dish got set down. “It’s the best, Chinks”, Sanj helpfully informed me. At the speed you devoured the dish, I kind of figured that out, Sanj.

Cutie ordered the Butter-seared US Black Angus Beef Onglet with Fries and Salad. Any self-respecting meat lover should try this dish at least once. Yes, it is easy to appreciate a good slab of rib-eye, but onglet (or hanger steak) cooked properly proves to be so much more flavorful. The way Marc prepares it imparts a lip-smacking combo of butter and shallots all over the meat, making it a carnivore’s delight. During those days when I am ravenous, this is my sure bet.

With our mains, we had two red wines- Cutie’s 2000 Bourdeaux and Mark’s pinot noir- a 2008 Irancy Vielles Vignes. Both wines were great, but I think the pinot noir- with its pretty berry notes- went really well with the cassoulet. Cutie said that the Bourdeaux paired well with the onglet, and I can imagine that it did with its bolder, more masculine flavors.

Often times, we are too stuffed for dessert, but this time we made sure to make room. We all shared our orders of ice cream, Chocolate mousse, Passionfruit Cheescake, among others. I should make a mental note to have Marc’s desserts more often. They are never too sweet or cloying, which is perfect for me.

And, with that meal, my love story with Marc’s food continues. Like a love-sick puppy, I stare at the menu he e-mailed me and fantasize about the next time I shall be in his restaurant again. Marc’s passion for his food is truly remarkable and you easily spot it: from the flawless cooking techniques to the well-trained staff to Marc’s natural desire to make every dining experience your most pleasurable yet.

Now, that’s love.

Champetre Boutique & Restaurant
G/F Net One Center
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. No. 09178838801

Thai Food Festival at Mandarin Oriental Manila

2011-05-05T20:15:00.003+08:00

One of the few perks I get from doing what I do is that I get invited to eat for free once in a while. The good people of Mandarin Oriental- particularly Director of Communications Charisse Chuidian and PR Manager Erika Aquino- were gracious enough to invite me to the launch of the hotel’s Thai Food Festival in Paseo Uno. I like Thai food, but do not particularly love it. Although, when I saw in the e-mail that the chefs from Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand)- ranked 45th in Travel & Leisure’s Top 100 World’s Best Hotels- were coming to town to show us Pinoys a thing or two, I admit I was suddenly curious. And, aside from that, it would be nice to see my Mandarin friends whom I haven’t seen for quite some time now.

I arrived for lunch and most of the guests were already there. I was warmly welcomed by Erika and quickly called shotgun on the seat beside her. She then walked me to the small alcove where the Thai buffet was located, which will be part of the usual lunch and dinner buffet until May 15, 2011. There were 18 dishes laid out, from appetizers to entrees to dessert. I particularly enjoyed the following starters: Tod Man Pla (deep fried curry fish patties)- think fish balls with a sweet chili sauce- asian flavors we are all familiar with; Plar Neur (spicy lemongrass salad with beef)- tender and lean beef with a nice kick; and the Tom Sab Gra Dook Si Kloong Moo (spicy clear soup with prok rib)- light yet packed with flavor.

After a promising opening round, I was excited to try the main dishes (so excited that I almost walked past Mandarin’s Executive Chef Rene Ottlik, despite his imposing Brock Lesnar-esque physique). Again, the beef dish draws me in- the Pa Neang Neur (creamy red curry with beef) is this lovely mélange of thai spices, sweet basil and lemongrass, so fragrant and rich, but not cloying. The Phad Prik Geang Moo Grob (stir fried pork skin with red curry paste and basil) got me eating more steamed rice than I would have wanted.

When I scanned the buffet, I knew that I had to definitely save room for dessert. Visually, the dessert spread on its own was a masterpiece. Fruits carved by the hands of specially-trained Thai women sat prettily on their silver thrones, while thimble-sized sweets in warm tropical colors beg you to pick them up and try them. What caught my attention was the Tab Tim Grob (chilled water chestnut rubies in sweet coconut milk)- not only was I struck by the mildy sweet, almost floral flavors, but by the unique texture of the “rubies”. During the Q & A with Chef Chanin Jakkased, one of the food writers inquired how it was made, wherein the chatty chef suddenly played coy and replied: “Secret”.

But, apparently, curious home cooks can learn the secrets to his dishes since he will be hosting a Thai Cooking Class at the Tivoli on May 7, Saturday, 9 AM. For passionate Thai food lovers, this is your chance.

The Thai Food Festival at Paseo Uno will be running from May 2 to May 15, 2011 at the Mandarin Oriental Manila. Diners availing of the Thai buffet get a chance to win one of 28 vouchers at stake daily, including vouchers for treatments at The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Manila, complimentary meals and dining discounts in Paseo Uno, The Tivoli, and Tin Hau.

The Thai cooking class with Chef Chanin will feature the following dishes: Phla Pla Tuna (Spicy lemongrass salad with tuna loin), Pa Neang Aok Ped Yang (creamy red curry with duck breast), and the enigmatic Tab Tim Grob. The cooking class is priced at P3,500 nett, inclusive of a continental breakfast, three-course lunch consisting of the cooking class menu, and a custom souvenir apron.

Thank you so much to Charisse Chuidian and Erika Aquino for inviting me to this event. It is always nice seeing you both. Chef Rene, you have to admit, you look totally different in an apron. But still, I promise to be more alert next time. Do not crush me.

Mandarin Oriental Manila
Makati Ave., Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 750 8888

Champetre Means "Country"

2011-05-04T13:15:00.006+08:00

The name of a restaurant plays a more crucial role than most people think. It gives the guest an idea of what- and what not- to expect. It prepares you for the kind of experience that you are in for and puts you in the appropriate mood. Basically, it's the establishment's visual barker, telling people: "come inside, you want this."

When I received a text message from Chef Marc Aubry inviting me to a get-together at his soon-to-open restaurant- Champetre- I was bubbling over with excitement. Not only because Marc is my favorite French chef in Manila, but also because I was excited for my friend and his new venture. Matt and I were regulars at the now defunct Je Suis Gourmand, and over the years we have become friends with the hard-working and talented Frenchman.

But with my excitement came concern and confusion: What is Champetre? What does it mean? Will the name intimidate the non-French speaking public?

With a little internet research, I discover that Champetre (Shom-PAY-truh) is a French adjective meaning "pastoral" or "country". When we arrived at the restaurant's location (Je Suis Gourmand's former spot), what struck us the most were the colors: rich marigold-colored walls trimmed with soft vermillion- warm, cheery and definitely inviting. The space which used to be function rooms have been converted into a boutique where all kinds of delicious goodies- preserved fruits, bottled sauces, French wines, etc- will be sold. On the walls are framed prints of the French country life- a quaint farm house, rolling hills splattered with lavender, an oblivious wild boar.

Marc prods us to check out our favorite spot in the back, and I happily take a picture. Matt kids, "Chinkee will mark her territory in a bit." I ride along and say, "Yes, good thing you're not serving asparagus tonight." Marc, already used to our bawdy toilet humor, just laughs. I was kidding, of course.

The spread was simple but plentiful, and most definitely delicious: Matt devoured the mushroom quiche and was constantly stealing my puff pastry-wrapped Merguez sausages. There was a selection of cold cuts that I happily ate with beautiful crusty bread. Wine was abundant and nicely-laquered the evening's conversations, which, we were surprised to discover later on as we checked the time, lasted until the wee hours of the morning.

If the get-together was any indication of what the restaurant would be like, then Manila is definitely in for a treat. Champetre is a place that you can come to if you are craving for real country-style French cooking- none of the snooty stuff, just authentic French food. And, being a fan of Marc’s cooking for years, it will be delicious French food. The vibe is definitely laid-back and more relaxed than most French restaurants. Champetre makes you feel at home and I think that is what the owners want. After getting to know the Aubry’s (including their three beautiful and charming children) a little bit more that night, I come to the conclusion that this is definitely the direction they should be headed.

As for the name- yes, Champetre is perfect.

Champetre will be having its soft opening beginning May 5, 2011, Thursday.

Champetre Boutique & Restaurant
G/F Net One Center
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. No. (632) 8158801-02
09178838801

Make Way for the Mongols

2011-04-27T17:33:00.006+08:00

Mongolian Barbecue... How could a dish from such a remote country be so familiar?

Interestingly enough, the Mongolian barbecue concept as we know it did not originate from Mongolia, but from Taiwan in the 1970's. A buffet spread of thinly-sliced meats, fresh chopped vegetables and a wide selection of flavorings and sauces is laid out, wherein the diner is given free reign to concoct their own dish, to be cooked quickly on a hot griddle.

Although Taiwanese in origin, this style of cooking is believed to be inspired by Mongol warriors and how they prepared their food- by gathering huge amounts of meats on their swords and cooking it on top of their up-turned shields over a fire. Mongolian Barbecue is also very similar to the Japanese teppanyaki, which also involves cooking sliced meats and vegetables over a griddle.

So, we discover that Mongolian barbecue is neither from Mongolia nor is it what you would consider your typical barbecue. Whatever it is, it has grown to become a popular comfort food with a cult following from all over.

In the Philippines, Mongolian barbecue brings together our love for stir-fried food, rice and noodles. To satisfy the Pinoy craving for everything tasty and hearty, we integrate the typical Mongolian barbecue into what looks more like fried rice of stir-fried noodles. The result is a steaming, aromatic, sweet/garlicky/spicy (your choice, of course), satisfying meal that is quick and cheap.

If you're in the Makati CBD, you can get your Mongolian barbecue fix from No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill. Available from 11 AM to 2 PM, Monday to Friday, the eat-all-you-can Mongolian buffet is unbelievably-reasonable at P249 only.

Note: No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill is owned and operated by my sisters, our husbands, a cousin, and I. I have always been a fan of Mongolian barbecue, even as a young(er) foodie: I loved eating it at the Bahia in the Intercontinental Hotel during family events, and at Sweet Inspirations when I was in college. I promote No. 38's Mongolian buffet not just as an entrepreneur, but as a fan of this particular style of cooking. I do hope you all end up loving it as much as I do.

No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill
114A Jupiter St.
Bel-Air 2, Makati City
Tel. No. (632) 5191806

Deciphering the Carbonara Conspiracy

2011-04-18T13:13:00.005+08:00

My love affair with pasta began at a very young age: I believe I was around 7 or 8. In fact, I remember it quite vividly.

During one of my shopping excursions with my mom, we stopped for an afternoon snack at a department store café. Having always been an adventurous eater, I look through the menu, and spot something which seemed incredibly exotic to me at the time- Fetuccine Carbonara. I asked my mom if I could try it, and she raised a skeptical eyebrow at my request. After all, the only kind of pasta I have had before that was children’s-party-variety “Spaghetti Bolognese”, prepared Filipino-style with slices of hotdog in a sweetish tomato sauce. I remember her being supportive though, and watched me intently as I had my first bite of the creamy, flat noodles tossed with bits of mushroom and ham. Needless to say, I was hooked on everything pasta from then on.

But, as my maturing palate made me crave for food that is “bigger, better, more authentic”, I soon discover that my beloved Carbonara is not what it claims to be. Real Carbonara has no ham, no mushrooms and (gasp!) no cream. A traditional Carbonara from Lazio (where Rome is located) in Italy is made simply of the following ingredients: whole eggs or egg yolks, olive oil, guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from pork jowl or cheek) and Pecorino Romano cheese. (Guanciale and pecorino are easily available in the Lazio region, but when these are unavailable, acceptable substitutes would be pancetta (salt-cured pork belly) and parmesan cheese.) I also just discovered that fetuccine pasta is not a suitable match for this kind of sauce because it is too delicate. Italians are very strict in using only spaghetti or bucatini (sometimes penne) for Carbonara.

Recently, I chanced upon fellow food blogger Miguel’s Facebook page and he expressed his frustration on the lack of authentic Spaghetti Carbonara in Manila. He was surprised to discover that even in the better Italian restaurants, their Carbonara is prepared with cream. This made me wonder: Why is it that such a simple recipe (it practically contains just four ingredients) has been bastardized to such horrendous proportions that the “wrong” version is often believed to be the standard one?

I ask a chef friend about this, and he suggests that it could be brought about by foreign cooks adapting to what is available to them. During earlier times in the UK, for instance, cream is more accessible than poultry products, hence the switch. In my research over the net, angry purists blame greedy restaurant owners for using pricier ingredients in lieu of Carbonara’s otherwise regular cupboard fare to justify the additional zeroes in their prices. Being a guilty conspirator in the practice of “creamed” Carbonara, the reason could be as simple as this: Carbonara is easier to make with cream. A cream sauce can conveniently be prepared a bit earlier and re-heated when ready to serve. The traditional Carbonara, however, should definitely be cooked ala minute, very quickly, or else it could easily turn into an omelette.

I will not feign snobbery and say that putting cream in Carbonara is bad. In fact, give me a well-prepared cream-sauce Carbonara and I would be happy to eat it. I just think that, if you are a restaurant serving what you claim is authentic Italian cuisine, you must prepare Carbonara the same way they do it in Lazio.

As homage and “Oh-My-God-I’m-So-Sorry” to the pasta dish that started it all for me, I would like to share a recipe of Spaghetti Carbonara, done the traditional way. This is based on a couple of recipes I have gathered- all approved by some kind of Italian organization that protects the authenticity of their food- and tweaked according to availability of ingredients and personal taste.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Ingredients:
250 g. Spaghetti
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons olive oil
200 g. pancetta, cut into cubes
2 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk, beaten
100 g. parmesan, grated
Salt and pepper for seasoning

Procedure:
- In a big pot of boiling water with salt, cook the spaghetti for 7-8 minutes, or until al dente. When done, remove from the water, draining the pasta water into a bowl and set aside to be used later.
- Mix in 2/3 of the grated parmesan into the egg mixture and season with a pinch of salt.
- In a separate pan over medium heat, cook the cubes of pancetta in the olive oil. Include the garlic, and remove before it turns brown. (Note: This will impart a subtle garlic flavor to the oil which will not overpower the dish. If you do not care much for garlic, you can skip the garlic part all together.)
- When pancetta has been nicely toasted, dump the spaghetti into the pan. Mix the spaghetti and pancetta mixture quickly, and then remove the pan from the fire. Stir in the egg and cheese mixture continuously until it acquires a beautiful, creamy consistency. If the sauce is a bit dry (or “tight”, as chefs call it), add a few spoonfuls of the pasta water.
- Move the pasta into a big serving bowl and season with some fragrant, freshly-crushed black pepper and top with the remaining parmesan cheese.
- Serve immediately.

It all seems simple enough, and it really is. I do need to stress the importance of mixing the egg mixture continuously to attain the creamy texture of the sauce. I myself began to panic when I noticed some parts starting to come together like an omelette, and I remember going “f_ck, f_ck, f_ck” under my breath. DO NOT PANIC. Just keep stirring, and the minute the sauce is creamy, it’s done. Buon Appetito!

Ramen Dreams are Made of These...

2011-04-16T00:09:00.007+08:00

Ramen is not extraordinary in the local foodscape. In fact, you can go to any supermarket or convenience store and grab yourself a pack of instant noodles. This has become such a staple in the average Filipino's diet, that we do not think much of it- nothing more than a hangover helper at the wake of a long night or a quick snack during a break at the office.

However, I join the long line of Manila's food bloggers who can't help but sing this bowl of soup praises. Ramen in Japan is nothing short of an art form- centuries old recipes passed on from generation to generation, each bowl distinct in flavor and characteristics. In the movie "Ramen Girl" starring the late Brittany Murphy, it illustrates how mastering the preparation of ramen not only takes samurai-level cooking skills, but engaging that ability to harness your deepest and most authentic emotions in order to make the perfect bowl of soup. Intense, I know, but when it comes to the Japanese and their food, they do not kid around.

In Makati, we are lucky enough to get piping- hot, authentic ramen from Ukkokei Ramen Ron. Not having been to Japan (except for those three-hour stopovers at Narita where I get to stuff my face with tempura udon and sushi), I judge the ramen's authenticity based on the fan base (hard-core food lovers and Japanese expats) and the serious-looking Japanese ramen master behind the see-through kitchen.

The menu is deliberately limited, serving a selection of ramen and a few short order dishes. For the ramen, you can have either of three soup bases- shio (salt-seasoned), shoyu (with soy sauce), or miso (thickened with miso paste). Toppings are mostly pork, seafood and vegetables, not much else.

On my first try, I opted for a shoyu ramen, wanting to try something basic. That already was quite exceptional, with the aromatic and flavorful broth and firm noodles.

However, what got me hooked is the same ramen that has Manila's foodies going gaga- the Tantanmen. This particular ramen's distinct taste is inspired by a noodle dish from the the Szechuan province of China called dandanmien. Apparently, Tantanmen also uses some Chinese ingredients which truly sets it apart from the usual ramen.

Ukkokei's Tantanmen is the first I have ever tried, and like many others, I was immediately smitten. I was captivated by the lingering aroma of sesame upon first whiff. Having a sip of the creamy broth, the miso paste adds a substantial richness to the soup, the flavors of which are a complex mixture of spicy, tangy and garlicky. The little bits of ground pork make this dish even more hearty, as you slurp long strands of perfectly-cooked noodles from the ladle. This dish is heart-stopping, wet dream-inducing delicious. And I do not exaggerate, judging from the number of people I know who try to arrive at exactly 6pm in order to partake of one of the ten bowls of Tantanmen a day that Ukkokei serves.

Taking my cue from other Ukkokei fans, I top my Tantanmen with aji tamago- or soy-seasoned soft boiled eggs. As if the ramen dish is not rich enough, the addition of the aji tamago takes your dining experience from sublime to decadent.

If you are looking for a light, refreshing meal, Tantanmen is not the ramen for you. The thick, rich broth with it's complex flavors and spices is not for the faint of heart. But, i suggest that you do give it a shot. Maybe you'll like it, maybe you won't. Honestly, I almost wish that you wouldn't. That just means more Tantanmen for me.

Ukkokei Ramen Ron
G/F Tesoro Bldg.
Pasay Road, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 856 4588

Rant Alert: An Ugly Jacket in "Civilized Society"

2011-04-02T12:02:00.005+08:00

A certain wine and food organization's wine fair is one event I was looking forward to since I attended the first one a year ago. I look back fondly at the time spent with good friends, chatting and laughing over a decent meal and tasting some really good wines. It was so much fun and left quite a good impression on me that when I was invited to this year's wine fair, I told more friends to join me and promised that they would have a good time. Even Matt, who was not present at last year's event, I convinced to join because I said it will be a great party (which he is always a big fan of) and we get to hangout with some friends of ours whom we haven't seen in a while. So, tickets were bought, and we were all set.

The night of the event arrives and it started out nice enough. Matt and I arrived and we did a quick round to greet the people we knew at the event, both suppliers and the organizations members and officers. Good friends and lovely couple- Weinmeister and Mrs. Weinmeister- introduce their charming sons to us, and we decided, of course, to join their table. I set my black pocketbook down on the seat beside Weinmeister (I assume it was his since his camera bag was on it) since it was decided that we will be sitting there.

We all return to the business of tasting wines, chatting, laughing, having a great time. Soon, our friends Sanju, Cutie and Mark arrive and everyone is getting into a party vibe. I was truly happy to see my husband and friends enjoying themselves, having their fill of the wines being offered, feasting on artisanal cheese and the lechon at one supplier's booth.

Weinmeister approaches us at one point and tells us that they will begin dinner as the two boys are already hungry. He tells us that if we are ready we can place our orders as well so we can all eat together. As we figure out our seating arrangements, Sanju points out that there was a jacket hanging at the back of one of the chairs. We ask Mr. and Mrs. Weinmeister to whom it belongs to, and they both say they do not know. Somebody suggests that the jacket be moved. So Sanju does just that.

Within seconds, the angry owner of the jacket approaches us, this Austrian fellow. I knew who he was, having met him at other wine and food events, the last of which was the organization's luncheon at La Tienda. I don't know a lot about him, I never really felt the need to. Anyway, he starts his tirade about not liking the fact that his things were being moved around. "This is civilized society, we do not do these things", he said in a huff.

He claims that his one jacket was placed there to reserve four seats, and then widens his eyes like giant saucers and focuses his glare at me. I glare back, and point out to him that my one bag was also there to reserve our seats. He says he did not see my bag there. At fthis point, my blood was boiling and it took all the strength in my body to stop me from clawing at his big, bulging eyeballs. "I will not fight with you, (name concealed)", I tell him curtly, then turn around and leave.

We find seats at the next table, and we refused to let his angry stares ruin our evening. As we chat up the friendly Australian and American and their dates, we try to brush the incident of the ugly jacket and its owner off our sleeves and enjoy the rest of the evening. And that we did with gusto.

What was funny, though, was that Austrian guy was doing his rounds, apparently trying to get the rest of "civilized society" to gang up against poor little me. Really funny, since a good number of the people he spoke to are friends of mine, some I have been wining and dining with for almost a decade.

I heard that he was wondering who invited me. The fact is, I was invited by, not one, not two, but THREE different members. I was surprised that he did not notice I was the only female invited to that La Tienda luncheon, after which I was given an open invitation to attend the ones that are yet to come. Unfortunately for him, his "friends" seem to like me. I doubt if any one who knew me in that room had something against me. Which, unsurprisingly, I cannot say the same about him. He has only made an enemy of me for less than 24 hours and so many people are only too happy to dish out dirt about him left and right, including a big guy in the food industry. People do not seem to like this guy, to put it mildly.

He talks about "civilized society" and yet he goes about his business disrespecting people, when things could have been handled in a more reasonable manner. To begin with, why did he pounce on me? I did not TOUCH his jacket, and I will never even dream of touching that eye-searing monstrosity (a feeble attempt at being fashionably eccentric) with a ten-foot pole. Why did he not snap at Sanju? Is it because he can't pick fights with men, so he starts one with the Asian chick? Not so "civilized" behavior, even a truck driver from the boondocks will tell you that.

My opinion about this Austrian guy does not in any way reflect how I feel about the organization (or Austrians, for that matter). The reason why I started coming to their events is because I have always liked the people in it- fun-loving, gracious gentlemen (and ladies) who share my love for good food and wine. I have met so many wonderful people within the society, people that I look up to and emulate, and many I have been lucky enough to call my friends. Its disappointing to realize that there really are people like him in these organizations. That's why it saddens me when the little time I get to spend in the company if it's more gracious and genuinely accommodating members is sullied by the presence of a man who seems to have a different concept of what the group is about. That, or he's just really a prick.

Anyway, the night was not completely lost. As I mentioned, we still had a grand time, and our little party moved to the bar after. Some of the younger suppliers even followed, and celebrated a good showing at the wine fair with some cocktails and burgers. The bar was packed, and the vibe was amazing. Life could not be better. And not even a petty little Austrian man with a bad attitude can ruin it for me.

Best Tacos Ever

2011-03-08T16:43:00.005+08:00

I don’t like using superlatives, simply because I myself don’t like being told what to do. When somebody says that something is “the best”- According to whom? You? Who died and made you the expert? Anyway, it annoys me, so I try not to do it. I prefer to say things like, “it’s my favorite cava” or “it’s the best pizza I have tried in Manila”. Things like that. But for me to dub something as “the best, period”, I don’t think I would be able to live with myself. I have a very low tolerance for arrogance, even if it is me.

But I will have to break my own rules with this one. This one I loved so much that I was thinking about it constantly for days. Even while I was eating it, I was already wondering how I could possibly deal with the mediocrity that is everything else after that. That is how amazing this dish was.

After a long day at the Kennedy Space Center, we (Me, Matt and Carlos) were famished and ready for a good meal. Carlos- his silver bimmer equipped with its powerful engine and some speeding-ticket-evading gadget- was zooming through the freeway toward, what he claimed, were the best tacos we would ever try. After our arepas experience, I knew that I could trust him on this one. I happily napped as the dimming Florida landscape whizzed by, knowing that when I awaken I would be having some delicious grub.

We arrived 45 minutes later at Tacos Del Rio- the same spot where we had our arepas a couple of weeks before. It was a small joint, seating 15 at the most. We placed our orders at the counter, which Carlos expertly did in rapid Spanish. As usual, I just told him I would have whatever he was having.

We ordered some Mexican beers called Modelo Especial- a premium pilsner made by the same company which produces Corona. Nice and crisp, perfectly-balanced, this beer was just too drinkable. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but this is one pilsner I can literally drink all day. Just give me two coconut trees, a hammock in between, and I’m set.

When our food arrived, we headed towards the gleaming salsa station to top our tacos with whatever condiments we wanted. On the left side were the mild salsas- including some guacamole, refried beans and sour cream- while on the right side were the hot salsas in different shades of green and red. In between were an assortment of fresh vegetables and herbs- diced onions, tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, the works. After some instructions from Carlos, we dove in.

I had a combination of three tacos topped with various meats- lengua (ox tongue), beef and pastor. All the meats are sliced and marinated the night before, and then quickly cooked on the griddle before being served. All except for the pastor- or spit-roasted porkloin- which is roasted in the morning on a shawarma-like contraption, and then cut into strips upon being ordered. These are put on top of soft corn tortilla, made in-house, everyday. All the salsas are also made fresh, everyday, and you could tell. I topped my tacos with some guacamole, sour cream, cilantro, and some of the spicy salsa verde.

On first bite, all of my preconceived ideas about Mexican food just flew out the window. The flavors and textures were so different from what I have been used to. First of all, there is no dominant spice- there was no pungent cumin or chili powder that jumps out. It was a perfectly-balanced medley of fresh herbs, taut and crisp vegetables, and the smokiness from the meats. The tortilla is a unique character on its own- its texture is something that I have never experience before. The freshly-ground corn imparts a fine graininess that adds bite to what is otherwise deemed merely as a wrapper.

And let’s talk about the heat. Mexican chilies seem to hit you a different way. It does not come at you up front- it attacks later on, almost predatorily, when you least expect it. Matt was an unlucky victim of this, thinking that he was up to the challenge being quite the hot sauce lover. He piled on the spicy salsa with the menacing orange tinge, since his first bite was bearable. Little did he know that the heat slowly creeps up at you, and not in your mouth, where you expect it to hit. You start feeling this searing heat coming from your neck, climbing up all the way to the top of your head. What you get is the uncontrollable urge to dunk your head into a tub of ice.

After Matt got some relief from washing his face in the bathroom with cold water, Carlos recommended that we try their dessert- a tequila-flavored flan. That, too, was delicious- the tequila added a flavor dimension that was not overbearing- just a subtle zing that you get in the end with alcohol. It was so good I ordered it again the second time we ate there, but alas, they were out of it.

I love it when food surprises me. This just goes to show that it pays to have an open mind when it comes to food, and to avoid pigeon-holing foods and flavors. Have I stuck to my profile of Mexican food (heavy on the cumin and cilantro), then I would not have appreciated the fresh and bright flavors of authentic tacos.

As we finish off our beers, I look at Carlos (Matt is still shell-shocked from the salsa and is, therefore, unintelligible) with concern, brows furrowed, and ask,” How do we come back from this?” He lets out a hearty laugh then stops, looks at me sympathetically, and says, “You don’t.”

Tacos Del Rio
9785C Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando, FL
Tel. no. (407)601 1542
http://www.tacosdelrio.com/

OBB crashes a Table for Three

2011-02-16T18:33:00.003+08:00

Thank you to my dear friend- food blogger Sanj- for the feature on One Big Bite and yours truly in what is undisputedly one of Manila's most respected food blogs, Table for Three, Please. Hopefully, people would still follow their blog despite my corrupting it with my nonsense.

To read, please click on the link below:

http://www.tableforthreeplease.com/2011/02/on-table-chinkee-clemente-koppe.html

A Love Letter to My Constant Dining Companion

2011-02-14T19:00:00.003+08:00

Dear Matt,

Happy Valentine’s Day!

I remember a couple of weekends ago, we were lying in bed one afternoon- jetlagged, a bit bored, thinking of something to do to amuse ourselves with minimum physical effort. You said you loved me, and I asked why. Around twenty times. And you gave me around twenty different answers. When you asked me the same thing, I could only come up with weak, uninspired reasons on why I think you’re the most amazing man in the world. You pretend to be offended, but forgive me soon enough. Its sometimes difficult for me to express my feelings, coming from a family that loves each other to pieces but rarely articulates it. Anyway, you know that, that’s why you sometimes say that it is highly possible I was a German Nazi general in my past life.

But, it is Valentine’s Day, and during these times of economic recession, one must find creative ways to express love. So, here is my list of Reasons Why I Love You.

I love you, because…

… You’re kind and good, even when sometimes people or situations make it hard. Behind all the snarky remarks and constant teasing is a genuine and sensitive man who has solid values and is very protective of the ones he cares about. When caught in a dilemma, you always follow your conscience. That’s hard to find these days, and I admire that about you. But, in no way are you a pushover, which brings us to the next thing.

… You’re strong, in every sense of the word. Yes, I tease you about your “Heidi Klum” arms, but you know I’m well aware that you have the physical strength of a silverback gorilla. I remember early in our relationship, we were having a tickling match, and you effortlessly gripped one hand around both of my wrists, pinning me down defenselessly. That was hot.

Aside from the physical, you’re also strong-willed. You stand by your beliefs to the point that you can be stubborn, but you are never arrogant. I can also be strong and defiant, so I appreciate the challenge. People have the misconception that we fight a lot. No, we argue. There’s a difference. And how sad it is to be in a relationship where two people would rather not discuss their discrepancies just because they do not want the hassle of a “discussion”. Thank you for always wanting to fix things, even when the process is not always easy. I truly love you for that.

… You’re incredibly good-looking. Come on, it had to be said. It’s really not a bad deal to wake up next to a man with nice bone structure and freakishly-long lashes. Any woman who says it does not matter is either a liar or a lesbian. Of course it’s just a bonus. But still, lucky me, I guess.

… You always smell good. Ok, this is shallow. So shoot me.

… You always make an effort. With everything you do and everything about us. From the start you made sure you had a good relationship with my family since you knew how important they are to me. You never disrespected my parents, and you always made sure to make things right when you do something (unintentionally, of course) to displease them.

From the beginning, you were the rock of this relationship. You made sure that things worked out, from the minute you decided to stay in the country. That was quite a commitment, I truly appreciate that. I really have you to thank for believing in what we had, even when there were times that I didn’t.

… You are ridiculously funny. I really enjoy your humor, which is both devilish and self-deprecating. That’s why I suppose we’re almost never bored, because we always manage to find something to laugh about, even if it’s at ourselves.

… You’re so supportive of me and everything that I do. Even when I’m an emotional mess, you are always there to give me the pep talk (or the slightly verbally-abusive wake-up call, whichever is appropriate) I need to get me out of a funk. I do appreciate that I can rely on you during those times when I just cannot be strong anymore. You never question, you never judge. You’re just there. Thank you also for believing in me and my capabilities. You have become that reliable voice in my head telling me to be strong, pushing me to do my best.

… I know that, after being presented with this cheap-ass excuse for a Valentine’s Day gift, you will still bring me to Antonio’s for lunch and wine this weekend. That’s just how awesome you are.

I hope you liked my gift, babe. You know it wasn’t easy. You were always the one who was more generous with the “I love you’s” and the “Hab dich Lieb’s”, but I just want to gently remind you that I love and cherish you always.

Love, Chi

Quick Bites: Arepas

2011-02-11T11:35:00.002+08:00

After a night of drinking in Orlando, we were all struck with the munchies and looking for a quick bite before heading home. Matt and I were with A & J, and we were accompanied by J’s cousin Carlos, his girlfriend Deyra, and their friends. Carlos and company, like J, have Hispanic roots, and luckily they know where to go for some Latin-flavored midnight snacks.

We headed out to the more industrial side of town, where- at 3AM- everything was pitch black save for street lamps and the head lights of oncoming traffic. Later on, I discovered that the spot where we ate was actually across a BMW dealership, and that it was on one of the busiest streets in Orlando. But, being completely unfamiliar with the area, everything looked dark and a bit daunting.

Carlos wanted to bring us to his favorite taco joint, but unfortunately they were closed for the night. Instead, we just went to a food truck which was parked nearby. “Cool! A taco truck”, the silly chinita exclaimed. Carlos answers, “Nope. We’re having arepas.” Fine, I think to myself. Tacos, arepas, same thing. Of course, I soon discovered, that they are indeed two completely different things.

An arepa is a dish made of ground corn dough popular in Columbia and Venezuela. The dough is shaped into a disc and either baked, grilled or fried, and then topped or stuffed with meat, seafood, salad, tomatoes or cheese.

We walked towards the truck and tentatively weave through the crowd. I look at the menu on the side of the truck and tell Carlos that I’m having whatever he’s having. I was thinking that this could be the last time I’m having an arepa in a very long time, so I might as well make it count. While we patiently wait in line, I watch the spunky Latinas, probably inebriated after a night of drinking, make fiery exchanges in Spanish. A particular one catches my eye, really pretty and loud. A 200-pound Rosario Dawson. I subtly tell A to take a look, but she averts her eyes to the ground and whispers, “Dude, I’m trying not to make eye contact.” Probably a good idea.

It was below 30 degrees and it started to drizzle, so A and I ran back to the van and let the boys wait for the food. Carlos came back, minus Matt and J, and he said that they walked a few meters to the Chimichurri burger stand. We drove closer to the burger stand and prepared to devour our arepas wrapped in aluminum foil.

Mine, like Carlos, was stuffed with shredded beef, shrimp and yellow cheese. “Oh, it’s like a donner kebab”, the silly chinita mutters under her breath. Exasperated, Carlos says, “Nope. Totally different”. I finally take a bite and then discovered what Carlos meant. It surely is not a taco, and it most definitely is not a donner kebab. The arepa, slightly crunchy from the grill, has a slightly chewy, lightly grainy, consistency that is unlike any pita or leavened bread I have ever tasted. The subtle maize flavor perfectly borders the essence from the meat, the fresh zest of the salsa verde and garlic sauce, and the mild creaminess of the yellow cheese. The shrimps, just quickly heated on the grill, pop like cherry tomatoes in my mouth when I bite into them. “It’s (expletive deleted) delicious”, I say over and over again.

A few days after, I am already craving for arepas again. Matt and J go out with the boys, and they bring some arepas home for me and A. I was a bit skeptical, thinking that I might have been a bit tipsy the first time around and I could have overrated it. Everything tastes good at 3 AM after a night of wine and beer, the silly chinita thinks to herself. I take a bite.

Nope. It’s really good.

Thanks to A & J for the photos.

Arepas truck (near Tacos del Rio,
Right across the BMW showroom)
Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando, FL

Modern Japanese in Orlando

2011-02-08T19:52:00.007+08:00

Matt and I were invited by Tito A and Tita B to spend the holidays with them in Orlando, Florida. It was going to be six weeks of relaxation in what is, literally, America’s playground. Orlando is famously known to be the home of the grand Disney parks and resorts, Shamu at Sea World, a wide assortment of water parks, and of course, the glorious Florida sun. Being the food-crazed person that I am, I was excited to sample the gamut of delectable dishes the southern US has to offer more than anything. I was not expecting the variety that bigger cities have, but I opened myself to the possibility of being pleasantly- surprised.

Luckily, there was plenty of interesting food haunts in the Dr. Phillips area where we stayed. One of them which we went to more than once was Dragonfly- a cool, lounge-y place that describes itself as a “modern izakaya”. An izakaya is defined as “a casual place for after-work drinking” or “a Japanese drinking establishment which also serves food to accompany the drinks”. Anthony Bourdain’s tv feature on Japan’s bountiful culinary landscape gave me a visual of an izakaya- a variety of meats on a stick roasting on the robata grill, while salarymen, hunched over their sake or beer, muse over the long day at work, either by their lonesome or as a rowdy group.

But walking into Dragonfly with Matt, A and J, you know immediately that this is not the izakaya of the Japanese middle-class. The crowd during dinner is Orlando’s young and well-heeled (Tiger Woods owns a home nearby), where the women are Pilates-skinny and they like to show it. The hidden speakers provide the hip soundtrack of chilled-out electronica as the cute receptionist walks you to the bar or directly to your table. I recommend ordering a cocktail while you ponder over the menu- I recall having a delicious cucumber martini at one point.

The decors are neo-Japanese with a contemporary use of bamboo, dark wood, granite and glass. The lighting is expectedly subdued at the bar, but the dining area is well-lit, which encourages family dining. During the few dinners we had there, I spotted a couple of tables with children, who were thankfully at their best behavior.

The food in Dragonfly ranged from the traditional to the “inspired”- from their grilled items that were simply seasoned and perfectly- cooked over charcoal, to the sushi rolls that contained cream cheese or octopus. The unanimous favorite was the Miso Yaki Black Cod with Wild Mushrooms and Chrysanthemum Leaves. The naturally-oily fish is literally like butter, complimented by the sweet miso sauce and earthy mushrooms. A perfect dish. So perfect I failed to immortalize it with a photo and even J’s photo of it I cannot save.

Being an izakaya, we had to try items from the robata menu, or what is more commonly-known as yakitori. The meat and vegetables are austerely seasoned with salt and pepper, and then grilled. You can eat them as is, or dip them in Dragonfly’s trio of sauces- teriyaki, spicy miso and orange yuzu. Aside from the chicken wings and bacon-wrapped enoki mushrooms, the stand-out would have to be- surprise, surprise- the wagyu rib-eye. Soft and juicy and smoky, you chew a little bit slower to savor the decadent meat macerating in your mouth.

Dragonfly introduced me to Orlando’s love affair with the sushi roll. It is literally everywhere- from grocery store chains to Polynesian-inspired hotel lobbies. And purists beware, because Dragonfly (as well as a few other sushi places we checked out) have a taste for the outlandish. Some of my favorites are the Cobra Kai (red onion, snow crab, tempura flakes, lemon slices, Loch Duarte salmon, garlic-shiso pesto, balsamic) and the Salmon Skin (toasted smoked salmon skin, kaiware (sprouted daikon radish seeds), scallions and roe). For those who care for more traditional sushi and sashimi, their sushi bar offers beautiful fresh seafood.

After dinner, and if the weather allows it, you can relax at the outdoor patio where they have a full bar and a DJ on weekends. We got to sample some of their craft beersand cocktails, and they also had some top-shelf Japanese whiskey.

Thanks to A & J for the photos.

Dragonfly
800 W. Sand Lake Rd.
Orlando, FL
Tel. no. (407) 3703359
http://dragonflysushi.com/orlando

Vino Argentino: A Crash Course on Living the Sweet Life

2011-01-31T14:34:00.004+08:00

The book came in the mail a couple of months ago. Thanks to things I like to call “real world problems”, I neither had the time nor the clearness of mind to give a book the focus it deserves. But the beautiful cover beckons and entices, and once in a while I would flip through the pages and look at the pretty pictures. Soon I was reading chapter after chapter, finding immediate escape from the stresses of daily life to a country that is both exotic and magical. Before I knew it was happening, I was longing to hop on a plane to Argentina.

Laura Catena’s book about Argentina’s wine culture, Vino Argentino, is not only “a guide to the wines and wine country of Argentina”, but also gives you a taste of the Argentine version of La Dolce Vita. And who could be better than the raven-haired daughter of Argentina’s legendary winemaker, Nicolas Catena, to walk us through it? Despite a prolific career in medicine (Laura holds degrees in both Harvard and Stanford), the lure of wine-making proved to be irresistible as she started her own range of wines under the Luca label. Now, she works closely with her father in the family business in Mendoza, overlooking all the Catena vineyards and wineries.

The book takes you through Argentina’s wine regions, giving you the usual information regarding its geographical location and terroir (the environmental elements that influence a wine’s characteristics), and at the same time featuring some of the local wine heroes and color. Amazingly, the combination of forthright prose, vibrant story-telling, and the most striking collection of photography I have seen in quite a while, transports you to the Argentina that Catena enviously calls home. Aside from satisfying the wine geek’s curiosity about the ins-and-outs of Argentine winemaking, the book also discloses an insider look on the country’s food scene, cool hangouts and cozy B & B’s. If you love pairing your Malbec with delicious food (as you should), Catena also shares some well-loved recipes you will normally find on tables all over Mendoza and the Uco Valley- Empanadas Saltenas, Carbonada (“a classic meat and vegetable stew), and Rib-eye Steak with Chimichurri and Patagonian Potatoes have caught this carnivore’s eye.

As wine critic, Dr. Jay Miller, imparts in the book’s foreword, “anyone heading to Argentina, and particularly to wine country, should be carrying a copy” of Vino Argentino. Not only does it educate, but it gently nudges you to kick back a little and enjoy life and the often-unappreciated beauty that it brings. Could I be stretching it a little? Maybe. But, who cares? I’m still on vacation.

Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina by Laura Catena, Photographs by: Sara Remington (Chronicle Books)

Moo, Pare...

2010-11-03T14:55:00.005+08:00

The day after our Halloween party at the bar was like a scene out of a 1980’s Bill Murray movie. Matt and I are lying completely static in bed, half-empty glasses of water on both night tables, the floor strewn with our outfits from the night before- my dark angel costume and his all-black attire- which still reek of cigarettes and spilt beer. We got home at 6 AM after a drunken food spree at the 24-hour Yellow Cab Pizza joint (Which is pure evil, I tell you) in Ayala Ave., the latest we have come home in a very long time. From what I have described, I believe you can make a fair assessment as to our physical condition when we awoke after a few hours. Yes. Not good at all.

With our heads throbbing and our bodies completely drained of energy, we have one forgettable meal in the afternoon, and then proceed to drift in and out of consciousness the rest of the day. When I finally came to, it was dark once again. Still weak, but with my stomach rumbling in protest, I force myself into the shower to finally awaken my senses. I knew I needed a meal that will revitalize my weakened body, something piping hot, hearty and succulent- a dish that will not only fortify my buckling knees but also bring me back from my half-comatose state.

It was time for some Bulalo.

Freshly-showered and finally showing some signs of life, Matt and I drive to nearby R & J Bulalohan, Tapsihan,atbp. where the fork-tender beef shank in its flavorful broth is the star. We were lucky to find parking out front and spotted a four-seater near the kitchen door which we immediately grabbed. The quaint neighborhood eatery was filled with families and barkadas enjoying the long weekend.

After ordering, we amuse ourselves by reading the posters of autographs left by R & J’s famous guests. The little girl with the group in the next table was being coaxed to dance by her adoring parents, and it reminded me of those days when it was still acceptable for me to dance at the dinner table. Now, I am usually given coffee even when I didn’t ask for it. Go figure.

We ordered three dishes to share, which is more than enough but we figured we can always take the leftovers home. Our bowl of piping-hot Bulalo Special came first, accompanied by an order of plain rice. We ladle some of the flavorful broth into our bowls and savor the calming sensation it brought to our empty stomachs. The meat was a delightful combination of marshmallow-soft beef and gelatinous tendon which is enhanced by my chosen condiment of soy sauce, calamansi and red chili. Our shank had no marrow in it and we were quick to point it out to one of their friendly and attentive servers, and she immediately gave us a piece of bone filled with butter-yellow marrow. Another feature of this dish worth mentioning is the cabbage- barely cooked through, it is placed on top of the soup just before serving so it is lightly blanched.

The two other dishes were served together, which was perfect, since I did not want to lose my momentum. The Sisig Laman-loob ng Baka (or chopped beef innards cooked sisig-style) is a new favorite of mine. Flavored with onions, chili and garlic, this tasty mélange of chopped beef meat, liver and intestines is given another flavor dimension with the addition of a little bit of beef blood. Yes, it does sound a bit hard-core, but it really is not. The flavors are actually very familiar, not off-putting at all. After tasting this, I knew we needed another cup of rice.

Matt devoured the Crispy Tawilis (deep-fried freshwater sardine from Taal Lake in Batangas) which, as every bulalo purist knows, is a popular sidekick of bulalo. It reminded him of the Crispy Galunggong (deep-fried mackerel scad) we would always eat in copious amounts at the beach. Paired with its condiment of sliced tomatoes, fish sauce and red chili, the tawilis tasted fresh and was amazingly crisp.

Everyone has their favorite bulalo joint all over the metro- and in the neighboring towns and cities as well- but R & J is my top choice. Aside from being accessible (to me, at least), the bulalo is always perfectly cooked (soft meat and tendon, tasty broth, vegetables still crisp) and, so far, the other dishes that I have tried are just as good. I noticed two ladies sharing something battered and deep-fried with something that resembled Yang Chow fried rice and it looked promising as well. It seems to be an ideal place for a quick meal at any time of the day (24/7!), and you can be sure that the food is served hot, quick and delicious.

So, did I really feel strong and revitalized after having that delicious bulalo? Not really. It would have been a good story though.

R & J Bulalohan, Tapsihan, atbp.
Bonifacio Ave.
Manadluyong City
(From Mandaluyong Circle, make a right at Petron. R & J is right beside the gasoline station.)
Tel. no. (02) 5334811

To C' or Not to C'?: The Angeles Adventure

2010-10-29T12:20:00.008+08:00

It almost did not happen.

There was a storm coming, and when it started raining hard in the afternoon, Matt and I were hesitant to push through. We heard on the radio, though, that the sudden downpour had nothing to do with the typhoon coming towards the Northern part of the country. Just to be sure, we contacted popular weatherman/ celebrity adventurer/animal lover/our wedding sponsor Kuya Kim- and asked if a quick trip was possible despite the sketchy weather. He gave us the go signal, and so there was really nothing stopping us. And off we went to one of the most famous food havens of the North- Angeles, Pampanga.

The main reason we took the trip was to finally get to try the popular Italian restaurant C’ Italian Dining. With Swiss chef Chris Locher at the helm, this Italian resto has become one of the most talked-about and revered dining establishments in the Philippines. His food is probably one of the most blogged about in the country, while an army of ravenous fans are tireless in singing him praises. Needless to say, C’ Italian is definitely a restaurant that I must try. So, as part of my birthday treat, Matt has planned a day trip to Angeles to visit the popular eatery.

We had a bit of difficulty finding the road where C’ was located, but once we got on Don Juico Avenue it was easy to spot their now-famous sign. Walking through the lobby, I caught a sight of the main dining room full to capacity for dinner service. Matt reserved a table in the garden, which they claim had the better ambience. The set-up is quite relaxed, with tiled table tops and metal rattan chairs, the topiaries laced with Christmas lights. We were seated in the corner of a small roofed area, sharing it with a few other diners. We hand over a bottle of good cava to the server, and she quickly whisks it away to be chilled.

After ordering, we were served some complimentary bread with a platito of olive oil, fresh pesto and grated parmesan on the side. The bread was warm and soft, clearly freshly-baked.

We sipped our nicely-chilled Freixinet Ellysia Gran Cuvee while we waited, but we did not have to wait long. As soon as the server placed our Panizza on the table, we quickly went to work. This is the original, after all- the precursor to Yellow Cab’s Dear Darla and Focaccia’s version- so Matt and I were excited to taste for ourselves why this dish has become legendary. As instructed in the many foodie blog posts that made it famous, you pull a slice of the panizza, top it with arugula and alfalfa sprouts, roll it up, and enjoy. We decided to go with the panizza topped with peppers, artichoke, eggplant, olives thinking that it would be the lightest option. The first couple of rolls were quite enjoyable- the huge leaves of arugula were fresh and crunchy, the alfalfa sprouts gave a unique flavor dimension to the dish. The cheese was also quite flavorful, and Matt noted that it was not just mozzarella since it had a richer and nuttier taste… A touch of Fontina, perhaps?

Overall, it could have been quite good. What made the dish less than stellar, though, was that after a few minutes, the panizza became very soggy. It was almost impossible to roll the pizza with the center turning into mush. As much as I love cheese, I think they put way too much of it, putting too much weight on the delicate crust. Good food always calls for a perfect balance of ingredients and flavors, and this is one of the few times when it was too much of a good thing.

The risotto, sadly, had the same problem. We ordered the Katrina, which is Arborio rice with salmon, asparagus, broccoli, mushrooms and truffle oil. Once again, the first few bites had us ooh-ing and ah-ing, the small particles of perfectly-cooked rice are coated in a luscious, fragrant sauce, the vegetables and fish coming together quite well. Eventually, though, we found ourselves pushing the big chunks of salmon and clunky vegetables aside, opting from the simple but sublime flavors that only mushrooms and truffle could bring. Again, I wonder why they felt the need to cram all those ingredients into that dish. Perplexed, we pushed the half-eaten dish aside and hoped that the secondi would not disappoint.

While looking through the menu, we saw that this was a house specialty, so we got a small order of the Flank Steak. It came sliced atop roasted potatoes, pumpkin and sautéed spinach with garlic. Once again, I cannot complain about the flavor- the steak was perfectly-seasoned, the spinach with garlic stood-out among the side dishes. It really could have been a very delicious dish, if only the meat was tender. Matt said it was “inedible”, but I myself would not put it as harshly. I admit I have had softer flank steaks, but the overall flavor of the dish has rendered me to be more forgiving. But after a two-hour drive to unfamiliar territory, I somehow understand why Matt feels he deserves better.

While we finished our wine, Matt spots our good friend Mark with his friends, Angelo and Wendel. Mark is a world-class DJ and is spinning at the Tim Yap/Divine Lee-owned club, Mansion, that night, so he is billeted at Angelo’s hotel, The Lewis Grand, which was also along that road. Wendel was just there to get away from the city, happy to have a “weekend with the boys”. They join our table and have the server bring their dishes over. Being frequent guests at C’, they seem to know which dishes are really good. I remember spotting Lamb Ribs with Lentil and a tomato-based pasta with seafood. They talked animatedly and devoured their food simultaneously, and I almost wished I had room for more food so I could have tasted their dishes.

After the boys inhaled their dinner, they invited us to drop by the hotel and have a few drinks with them at the club. We happily agree. Apparently, when Matt told Mark that we will be in Angeles, he told Angelo to reserve us a room. The only available room that night was the presidential suite, so that was what he put aside for us. Sadly, that was the weekend before a big typhoon was scheduled to arrive, so we were advised by my parents to not stay the night. Upon seeing the room, though, I started having second thoughts about leaving. That room was quite impressive! The art deco/modern asian design, the enormous bed (“It’s a ‘Hollywood’ king”, Angelo informs us, referring to its size), the Jacuzzi right next to it, the full-sized ref stocked with water, soda, beer and juice… It had everything you could possibly need for a wild hotel room party.

We had a round of drinks at the poolside bar, and then Angelo excused himself to get some rest before going to the club. We went ahead since Mark starts spinning at midnight.

After a fifteen minute drive, we arrive at Mansion. We got our “VIP” stamps at the door, after which Mark and Wendel led us into the main room. The club was massive with its high ceilings and grand ballroom-like design. By clubbing standards, it was still early, so the dance floor was still filling up and the VIP tables still awaiting their guests. We go past the huge bouncer and Mark shows us the view from the DJ booth, high above everyone else. He instructs the bottle girl to lead us to a table, where she lays a bottle of vodka, ice and some mixers. “Just order what you want”, Mark generously offers, “I never get to use my signing privileges”. Something tells me I’m in the wrong industry.

We stay for a few rounds (3? 4? 5?) of vodka cranberry, enjoying the party vibe and that rush you get from being in an unfamiliar place. Mark goes on and does his thing, reminding me once again why people pay him good money to play music in clubs all over the US and Asia. Tired from the drive and with that nagging thought of the coming storm, we leave just as the party was getting started.

Now, to answer the question I have been evading: Will I eat at C’ Italian Dining again? I probably would, if- and only if- I was already in the area. Somehow I cannot believe that its legions of fans were wrong about their food- perhaps the chef was not there, or he was simply having an off-night. It might not be worth the day trip like my favorite restaurants in Tagaytay, but I am more than willing to come back and try their other dishes. My friend and fellow blogger, Sanju, tells us to order a simple mushroom risotto next time, as opposed to the crazy mess that they offer on the menu. I have to admit that the risotto did have some promise, and I am very much open to being proven wrong.

C’Italian Dining1210 Don Juico Ave.
Clark View, Angeles City
Pampanga
Tel. no. (63-45) 8924059
(63-45) 8926993

Lewis Grand HotelDon Juico Ave.
Clark View, Angeles City
Pampanga
Tel. no. (63-45) 6253947
http://www.lewisgrand.com/

The MansionThe Enclave
Friendship Highway
Angeles City, Pampanga

Lunch with the Boys

2010-10-12T12:50:00.012+08:00

Some people eat to live, while others live to eat. I, obviously, am one of the latter. Food, to me, is not just consumed for survival, but is the source of one of life’s simplest pleasures.

One of my like-minded friends, Noel- lawyer/blogger/all-around epicure- invited me to a BYOB (bring your own bottle) lunch with his fellow International Wine and Food Society members at, arguably, Manila’s best Spanish restaurant- La Tienda. I have dined a great number of times at this restaurant and I am hooked on Chef Javi’s Basque cooking. Noel texted me the lunch menu- which was a line-up of my favorite La Tienda dishes- and I immediately asked him to reserve seats for Matt and I. He promptly put us on the waitlist (IWFS members get priority booking, of course), and confirmed a few days before the dinner that we were in. Being a BYOB lunch, I ask Noel what wines I should bring. He graciously answers, “No need to bring bottles. I will bring wine for us.” Who would argue with that?

Aside from eating good food, drinking the best wines, and hanging out with a buddy I haven’t seen in a while, I was curious to see what an IWFS lunch would be like. This group of men, aside from their shared passion for wine and food, is an illustrious bundle of Manila’s captains of industry, politicians, professionals, expatriates and food industry giants. Their exposure to the finest cuisine, wines and spirits have brought them together to further glorify the pleasures that only fine dining could bring.

I initially had a vision of men in penguin suits, sniffing and swirling giant Bordeaux glasses of Chateau Latour, pinkies and eyebrows raised. But then, after having met several members on different occasions, I confirmed that, no, they are not a bunch of food and wine snobs that only eat from gold-trimmed platters. These are actually fun and down-to-earth guys who enjoy a slice of Shakey’s pizza as much as a perfectly-seared slice of foie gras. But, put them all in one room together- like in any boy’s club, where high amounts of testosterone can bring out the beast even in the most mild-mannered of men- I can’t help but wonder what that would be like.

Matt and I arrive at La Tienda thirty minutes late, so I hop out of the car before Matt looks for a parking spot during the busy Makati lunch rush. We were the last ones to arrive for lunch proper, and I count roughly 20 gentlemen seated at the long table, busily tending to their wine glasses and pintxos. I was a bit overwhelmed by the sight, and mumble my incoherent greetings to Noel; stockbroker, seatmate and the youngest-looking 40-something I know, Jojo; fellow guest and WSCP member Gino; the shy but always pleasant Jay-Lab; and that cheeky cherub Rene, whom I haven’t seen since our burger lunch at Elbert’s.

Noel introduces me to the man seated across from me, who turns out to be Rene Sr. He seems to be the Alpha male of the bunch, occasionally barking admonitions at the others in Spanish, punctuated by a curse word that rhymes with baño. When Noel introduces me to him, he warmly shakes my hand and gives me a wink. Not a creepy wink that grimy old foreigners give young nymphs at a bar, but more like a “Relax- kid-you’ll- be-ok” kind of wink. It immediately put me at ease and I proceeded to enjoy my pintxos with the first of the wines.

The menu, like I said, is a mix of my favorite dishes in La Tienda and some new creations. To start, the server placed a platter of pintxos in front of me, containing Escalivadas (grilled peppers, anchovies and cheese on bread), Brandada de Bacalao (puree of bacalao on bread, topped with shrimp), and Boquerones con Crema de Centollo (Fresh anchovy with cream of spider crab). Aside from that, we were also given a refreshing glass of Cordoban gazpacho called Salmorejo, topped by a plump and barely-cooked shrimp (which I loved, and was only too happy to eat Matt’s share, as well).

With these, I had some of Noel and Gino’s Freixenet Reserva Real Cava and Noel’s Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli 2009. Being an IWFS lunch, I thought it would be fun to pay better attention to the food and wine pairing. The cava, as expected, paired famously well with all of the pintxos, its bright, crisp, citrus characters complimenting the acidity in the dishes and cutting the richness. Refined and radiant, it felt like butterfly kisses on my tongue.

This was the first time I tried Txakoli (a slightly sparkly, dry, highly acidic white wine produced in the Basque Country), and it was quite a revelation. It is not something that I would drink on its own, but with the Boquerones, it was a match made in heaven. Its sharp acidity and dry character makes it perfect with seafood, and with the vinegar-soaked anchovy, there could not have been a better marriage. This is a great food white wine, and I’m excited to see how this is different from the No. 7 ItsasMendi Txakoli I ordered from Noel and Aaron.

I step out with Matt for a long cigarette break, and when we returned, they have started with the mains- a heavenly Besugo al Horno (Sea bream baked in olive oil and garlic), Paella de Verduras (vegetable paella cooked with Basmati rice), and Chuleton con Pimientos del Pequillo (Rib-eye Steak with Red Peppers and Fries). I don’t have to mention how amazing these dishes were- made from the freshest ingredients, the flavors were pure, honest, divine.

With the main course, bottles of red wine were poured. I tasted several throughout the meal, but I easily recall those that I like the most. I remember starting with a side-by-side tasting of Noel’s Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1998 and Oscar’s Pesquera Gran Reserva 1996. To my fairly young palate, I quickly distinguish the differences in these wines from Spains prominent wine regions (the former is from Rioja, while the latter is from Ribera del Duero). The velvety-elegance of the rioja is a well-known characteristic of good wines from the region, while the ribera proved to be heftier and had a little bit more “muscle” in it. I enjoyed sipping the rioja on its own, enjoying its quiet and subtle complexity, while the Pesquera (a favorite ever since Matt brought some home for me during a visit to Spain) I loved with the chuleton.

Another notable wine is Jojo’s Finca Dofi Priorat 1998, which upon first whiff, was something I knew Matt would love. It had a delightfully fruity nose, such a different style from the earlier wines I have tried. As Noel has pointed out, these “big, dense, ultra-ripe” wines are quite characteristic of Priorat considering their “hot weather”. The bold red cherry might be a bit distracting, but when sipped on its own, this wine is just too frigging pretty to ignore.

With my second helping of chuleton, I had two glasses of Gino’s Bodegas Alion 2006, produced by Ribera del Duero’s famous Vega Sicilia. This young wine is definitely not shy, and it stood its ground admirably to the smoky and meaty steak.

Before dessert was served, the talented Chef Javi came to the table greet us and was met with applause. After some introductions and ribbing from Rene, he lingered a bit to answer some questions from the IWFS members.

For dessert, we were served a scrumptious Leche Frita con Halado de Quezo Confitura de Tomate (fried milk with cheese ice cream and tomato confiture). I wish I wasn’t so full so I could have had more of this. A more “soothing” alternative to end the meal was Jay-Lab’s Cardenal Mendoza Brandy de Jerez, which I had at least two pours of. I was sad to see it disappear.

Slowly, the guests at the table had to take their leave for various reasons. Fellow WSCP member and former Cheese Club president Bill joined us at our end of the table, where we chatted for quite a bit with a sweet Swiss fellow, Markus. Our rowdy bunch stayed on to chit-chat a bit more and share a few laughs, crack some inside jokes and poke fun at the unfortunate ones who weren’t there. It was a great lunch, and I was truly sad to see it end.

Yes, maybe they eat better food than most of us, and have access to a massive collection of the world’s best wines. But, at the end of the day, the IWFS proves to be a fun bunch of guys who really just love wine and food. Everyone just seems to be happy to be around their buddies, sharing a good meal and a hefty amount of laughter. No hang-ups, no pretentions, no bullshit. Now, you tell me: Wouldn’t you want to be part of THAT boy’s club?

Note: Some pictures and notes were taken from Noel’s blog, Eye On Wine.

La Tienda
Polaris St.
Brgy. Bel-Air, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 8904123

Hot Stuff, Baby

2010-09-20T15:39:00.004+08:00

Eating and writing had to take a backseat for a few months. Food has become but a mere necessity, something that I needed to keep me alive and energized as I run about my daily routine. It’s almost like my world got a bit dreary, almost black and white. I miss the excitement of holding the menu of a new restaurant in my hand, scanning the items and feeling my heart leap out of my chest when I discover a dish with promise. I long for the well-loved dishes at my favorite restaurants, chatting with the servers and owners that I am friendly with and sharing a good laugh with my foodie buddies. Food and writing are two of my greatest loves, and my grown-up responsibilities forced me to neglect them.

One weekend, I made a conscious effort to get back into the business of eating for fun and writing about it. After accompanying Matt at Saturday service, we decided to check out Burgos Circle at Bonifacio Global City. I saw some interesting places that I saved for dinner with friends or family, but Matt and I wanted a meal that was casual, quick and- most importantly- good. We venture to the quieter side of Burgos Circle and found two small restaurants at the ground floor of a residential building- one was Japanese, and the other, Indian. The Indian menu captured our attention, so we settled into a corner table in their small dining room.

Namaste (which is a spoken salutation which originated from Bhuddist India and Nepal) India is owned and operated by the owners of Swagat in Legaspi Village, Makati. The menu boasts of authentic Indian cuisine which consists of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Their dining room is simple and cozy, like a neighborhood eatery, but trimmed with a few Indian tapestries and ornaments.

We ordered our lunch from the friendly server (complete with the musical jingling of her coin belt) and requested that the spice level be “medium”. We were forewarned by the menu that all dishes would take 15-20 minutes to prepare, since everything is cooked-to-order, so we patiently waited despite our rumbling tummies. The wait was not unbearable though, as soon we were served our appetizer- Harhabhara Kabab. One look at that dish and I automatically whip out my camera for the first time in months. This starter of vegetarian patties is made of mashed potato and spinach, flavored with coriander, chilies and other spices. The contrast in texture is excellent- from the smoothness of the mashed potato to the subtle crunch of the fried crust and whole almonds. The flavors are so distinctly Indian, and the spice level is perfect for us. This dish is a great alternative to the usual Crispy Papad and Samosas.

With the Naan bread and fluffy Basmati rice, out came our two main dishes- Chicken Tikka Masala and Mutton Kofta.

We love ordering Chicken Tikka Masala at Indian restaurants because of the rich, flavorful sauce. Namaste’s version is just as good as its fine-dining counterparts. What I noticed, though, was that it had a sweetish, tangy, kiamoy-like finish. Not really an Indian food expert, I don’t know if that was a good thing. I liked it, though, and was happy to scoop up the sauce and small chunks of chicken with the Naan bread.

Matt and I also shared the Mutton Kofta, which we were hesitant to order because we have never tried this before. Luckily, the goat meatballs in a thick brown curry were delicious. The meatballs were juicy and perfectly-flavored, while the heady, aromatic sauce was meaty and robust. We will surely order this again when we return with a healthy heap of Basmati rice.

To cleanse our palate of the strong and piquant flavors, we shared a scoop of Kulfi or homemade Indian ice cream. The only flavor available was pistachio, and we did not mind. The kulfi was served in a beautiful copper goblet, and upon closer inspection, had tiny flecks of ground pistachio in it. This is definitely not the seafoam green concoctions you would often find in ice cream stands at malls. Although the consistency could be smoother, I appreciated the authentic flavors of pistachio and moderate sweetness. Matt-who once finished 48 scoops of ice cream in the middle of a harsh German winter- proclaims this to be a winner.

We will surely return to try more of their specialties, and we will definitely order the Mutton Kofta and Harhabhara Kabab again. Our only issue with Namaste is the small portions, but I suppose that is their way of keeping their price point lower. In any case, their hot and sexy Indian spices got me writing again, and that I truly appreciate.

Namaste India
Unit 1A Kensington Place
1st Ave. cor. 29th St., Burgos Circle
Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
Tel. no. (632) 4036088

Shameless Plug for No. 38 Sports Lounge and Grill

2010-08-02T15:52:00.008+08:00

The beauty of having a blog is that you can pretty much write about anything you want. People have found several functions for their cyber-journals- self-promotion, creative outlet, marketing tool, and- although nobody would ever admit it- a virtual playground for the narcissistic and self-indulgent.

Lately I have been busy with other things, and my blog- which is my sole artistic outlet for the past couple of years- is left un-updated for almost a month. But now, I think it is time to use my blog for another purpose- to brazenly promote our new baby- No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill.

This project is a joint venture among my sisters, our cousin and I (with the support of our husbands and parents, of course). People ask: What are four girls doing putting up a sports bar? For some strange reason, this concept came naturally to us. Growing up, we have always enjoyed and appreciated sports, getting a thrill from watching pure athleticism at work and from the excitement and frenzy that it brings about. We love how a sports bar is comfortable and accessible, a place where people can be themselves and not have to worry about wearing collared shirts or having their hair blown-out. Most of all, it’s the kind of place where we can entertain and be entertained, just like in our old home (the number of which was No. 38, hence the bar’s name) where we had fun parties and get-togethers with friends and family.

And, of course, this is a place which we can proudly say has good food. Ask any of our friends and they would surely talk about the food we used to serve in our house. Of course, we would cower in shame if No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill’s food would pale in comparison.

For appetizers, the popular ones are-

Awesome Nachos- Crispy tortilla chips covered in generous dollops of three cheeses, pesto, aioli, salsa, jalapeno peppers and chili con carne. This is probably our most popular bar food so far, getting rave reviews from all those who have tried it.

Fried Chicken Wings or Chicken Crispers (boneless chicken thigh strips)- lightly covered in a garlic rub and deep-fried, then dipped in one of three sauces: Sweet Teriyaki, Southern Barbecue, or Original Buffalo-Style (Classic, Insane or Please, Stop the Pain!).

Beer-battered Onion Rings- Crispy on the outside, soft and juicy on the inside, served with our house aioli.

Mom’s Fish Fry- Parmesan-crusted strips of Cream Dory, fried until crispy and served with either house aioli or marinara sauce.

Spinach & Artichoke Dip- A creamy mixture of cheese, chopped spinach and artichoke. A party favorite at the original No. 38, served with toasted bread.

Disco Fries- A Tri-State diner cult classic- potato wedges smothered in gravy and melted cheese.

Our dinner entrees are sure to satisfy even the largest of appetites. We take our food seriously, so when we decided on having a predominantly American menu, we made sure that both flavor and size are truly American. Aside from diner staples and pub food, we also included a few of our own recipes. We (and our guests) love-

Chicken Tenders- Beer-battered strips of chicken breast, deep-fried, and served with potato wedges.

Aussie Rib-eye Steak- 300 grams Australian Rib-eye Steak, grilled to your liking and served with mashed potatoes, potato wedges or rice pilaf.

Belly Belly- Baked pork belly with our signature barbecue glaze, served with either mashed potatoes or rice pilaf. Tender and rich goodness that melts in your mouth!

Pasta Carbonara- Penne pasta coated in a cream and egg yolk sauce, one of our favorite comfort foods!

Classic Shepherd’s Pie- Ground beef and green peas simmered in exotic spices, then topped with creamy mashed potatoes.

Sloppy Dawg- Beef hotdogs topped with chili con carne, jalapenos and three cheeses.

Fortunately, we have been getting good reviews from our guests about the food. While we are still getting our sea legs, we decided to open for dinner first. But now, with the steady demand from Makati’s office crowd, we will soon be opening our doors for lunch. We are thinking of serving 3-course lunch specials, which will be within the P300 price range.

So, come and visit us sometime and we’ll make sure you feel right at home. Have some drinks, relax, watch a game, munch on some tasty morsels… You can pretty much do whatever you want (within the bounds of reason). Just like the original No. 38, it is a place to have fun and enjoy each other’s company. The only difference is- this time around- everybody’s invited.

No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill
114A Jupiter St.
Bel-Air 2, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 5191806

Giant Pintxos, Spanish Wines and Alka-Seltzer

2010-07-05T10:19:00.008+08:00

Unless you’re denser than metal, you have probably noticed that I love food. That’s all kinds of food, actually, from the lowly arroz caldo to haute cuisine. As long as it is cooked right, seasoned properly and served at the proper temperature, all these factors are well-appreciated and most probably it would be a meal I would enjoy. In other words, unless it is downright nasty or just too outlandish (um, monkey brain?), I would be happy to consume it.

That is why I am grateful for having friends that love food as much as I do. There are friends I eat junk food with, those that I do potluck dinners with, and also those that I wine and dine with. I do have acquaintances which are perpetually dieting or vegan or (gasp!) not interested in food at all, but I cannot imagine having a deep and lasting friendship with those types. They’re good people, but just not MY people.

So, aside from my usual posse of food junkies, I also enjoy sharing food and wine with two of my favorite bloggers- Noel and Miguel- whom, over the past couple of years of knowing them, have become my friends as well. Meals with them, so far, have always been great fun. And the wines, well, let’s just say they know their wines, to say the least. So, whenever Matt and I get the chance to have lunch or dinner with them, we are more than happy to attend.

After what felt like ten years, our plans of having pintxos (the Basque version of tapas) and chuleton at La Tienda finally pushed through. When Matt and I arrived, Noel, his wife Catha, and Miguel were already there. As we waited for Miguel’s better-half, Ria, to arrive, we spotted dishes of Boquerones and Chistorra which they were snacking on while waiting. Noel quickly replenished the supply and ordered more for us. Catha remembered, though, that Matt does not eat pork, so she said, “Chinks, I guess we’ll have to finish the chistorra on our own.” I sigh in fake remorse and say, “Yeah, you’re right.”

Finally, Ria arrives and the group is complete. Miguel, who is good friends with Chef Javi and has taken care of the menu for that evening, signals to the staff to begin serving the pintxos. Before those arrived, though, we were served a very refreshing gazpacho called Salmorejo, which is from the Southern part of Spain. The shrimp was visibly just barely cooked and then chilled, going wonderfully with the tomatoes and vinegar in the soup. Like the boquerones and chistorra, this was delicious with Noel’s bottle of Freixinet Elyssia Gran Cuvee Brut. We love this Spanish sparkling wine, with its crispness, refined bubbles and pleasant citrus and apple notes.

The first pintxo that arrived was the Boquerones with Olive Pate. I liked its simple flavors- just very clean, with the sour zip from the marinated anchovies, olive oil and tapenade. At this point I think we already opened my bottle of Laxas Albarino 2008, a dry white wine with pleasant fruitiness just the right amount of mineral that makes it perfect with tapas and seafood. We drank this with the other pintxos as well.

Next up was the Salmon Confit with Pisto (sauteed vegetable typically eggplant, tomato and anything that is of season- Miguel). We started noticing the trend of huge portions with the pintxos, so Noel advised us to skip the bread underneath. Carb-whore that I am, I opted to eat half of the entire pintxo and then pass on the remaining half to Matt. This would have disastrous results later on.

Quickly following this is the Bacalao al Ajoarriero con Gambas- it was a mixture of roasted vegetables with bits of the salted cod and topped by a plump and juicy shrimp. The smokiness of the eggplants combined with the saltiness of the fish was a hit with me, and since this was one of the smaller pintxos, I easily finished it, along with Matt’s shrimp which somehow found its way to my plate.

Everyone’s favorite pintxo- Escalivadas with Anchovies- came up next, and it was delicious, as usual. Even Matt, who is not that fond of eggplants, loves this dish, and always asks for it when we eat at La Tienda. If you visit Noel and Miguel’s respective blogs, you will notice that this is one dish they always order during their meals there as well.

At this point, Matt is already starting to rub his stomach with a look of concern in his eyes. You can imagine our shock when they brought out the last pintxo, the Brocheta of Beef Tenderloin and Bacon with Creamy Rice, Foie Gras and Port Sauce. I had dreams about this dish for days after that dinner. Despite being completely stuffed at this point, I could not stop myself from taking bites of the juicy bacon, that rich foie gras and the tasty arroz. This is something that I could add to my list of favorite La Tienda dishes and I will surely request for this on my next visit. Amazing, amazing dish.

With this dish, we dove into the fabulous red wines Noel and Miguel brought to dinner, starting with Noel’s Berberana Gran Reserva 1973. This is probably the oldest wine I have ever tasted and was quite the educational experience for me. From the deep, rusty hue to the soft, medium-bodied palate, it was definitely matured, dignified even. I noiced the balsamico notes, which Noel also pointed out, and I wonder if this is characteristic of aged rioja or aged wine in general.

We step out for a cigarette break, and the men start to ponder if we should cancel our chuleton at this point. Feeling bold, I reassure them that I would “take care” of the steak and we should go ahead with it. Miguel told Chef Javi to give us a few minutes before bringing out our main course.

As we tried to let our pintxos settle in our stomachs, we continued sipping on the rest of the red wines: Noel’s Bodegas Prado Muga Enea Gran Reserva 2001 and Miguel’s Bodegas Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2001. (Matt, already suffering from indigestion at this point, sipped on some Alka-Seltzer.) Both, being relatively young wines, are both much bolder with rich, dense fruit. They went really well with our main course, the chuleton (which was perfectly grilled medium-rare and mildly-seasoned with sea salt) and a side dish of Pimientos. Although bursting at the seams, I stay true to my word and finish off one and a half slices. I look sadly at the untouched portion of the steak, wanting badly to eat more of it, but I soon accept defeat and raise the white flag.

After another much needed cigarette break, we were served a dessert dish I have never tried before- Torejas with Arroz con Leche Ice Cream. The flavors were very subtle, the texture of the torejas was similar to that of our local kakanin (sticky rice pastries), but lighter. The ice cream had a very delicate milky flavor that was perfect after that heavy and decadent meal.

We stayed a bit longer and chatted more about the World Cup, common friends (and foes) and our respective lives. I check if the waitresses were giving us dagger looks, but they were just calmly chatting amongst themselves. After a while, though, the others had to begin their journey home to the south, while Matt and I had to move to a sports bar nearby and meet up with my sister and some friends. It was another good dinner with some of our favorite food buddies, and we look forward to the next one. Not even a surefire bout with indigestion can keep us away.

La Tienda
Polalris St.
Brgy. Bel-Air, Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 8904123

Childhood Memories on a Stick

2010-06-28T16:44:00.004+08:00

Ever since we got married last year and moved into our new place together, Matt and I have diligently explored our new “barrio” in search of new food haunts. Although our favorite restaurants in Makati and The Fort can never be replaced, we were happy to have found some good eateries that are both accessible and consistent.

During one of these “explorations”, we passed one of my old family pit stops- Three Sisters’ Restaurant. Since I was not very familiar with that area before, I always knew that it was there but did not know the exact location. Seeing the familiar façade and name brought back childhood cravings and memories that have been locked away for quite a while now.

When my not-so-little sister Queenbee and I were very young (the youngest one- Foxychef- was not even born yet), my parents would sometimes stop outside this popular establishment within a residential area in Pasig and pick us up several sticks of pork barbecue for the ride home. Rain or shine, my Dad would step out of the car, place his orders, and the grill guy would pack the steaming-hot cubes of pork on a stick into a brown paper bag, and then a plastic “sando” bag. The drill inside the car is always the same: 1) Our mom or yayas would break off the sharp end of the stick and then wrap the other end with a paper napkin, 2) My sister and I, mesmerized by the thick, deep-brown sauce and the captivating scent of grilled pork, would continuously blow at our pork barbecues until a tolerable temperature is reached, 3) finally, we get to devour the tender chunks of meat, smearing our hands, faces, clothes and the interiors of the car in the process.

I asked my Dad if this was the same restaurant, and indeed it was, standing on the same location for the past four decades. Three Sisters’ is truly a Pasig landmark, the original one opened in a different location back in 1941 as a panciteria, its pancit bihon legendary even to this day. Throughout its long history, its menu has grown to include other specialties like the popular Filipino dessert halo-halo (a parfait-like preparation containing sweetened beans, fruit preserves, ube, and the like, topped with shaved ice, milk, and sometimes ice cream), beef Caldireta and the now-famous pork barbecue.

One sleepy weekend, Cookie Goddess and I went off to indulge my reawakened childhood cravings. We arrive at the restaurant way past noon, enjoying the quiet dining room, save for a long table of serious-looking, government-types. Aside from some minor renovations, it looks like the dining room has not changed since the 70’s, with the hanging rattan lamps, retro-looking art on the wall, and the thick dark wood fixtures which impart a familiar, musty smell you find in old houses. The vibe is definitely laidback and nostalgic, a setting you would expect to see leafing through your parents’ old albums.

The menu is also classic Filipino fare- Nido Soup, Sinigang sa Miso, Kare-Kare, Lumpiang Ubod, and a selection of grilled meats and seafood. Cookie Goddess and I decide on two rice meals and share one other dish.

Naturally, I order my childhood favorite- two sticks of Pork Barbecue with Java Rice. Their classic barbecue sauce is served on the side, which I evenly poured on top of the pork. The cubes of pork seem smaller to me, although it could be that I’m just bigger now. But the same juicy, smoky flavor remains, the sauce heightening the experience with its moderate sweetness and pleasant tang. I pour a little more sauce on the flavorful rice, inducing eye-rolls and loud grunts from both Cookie Goddess and myself.

I got a few slices from Cookie Goddess’ order- Pork Belly (or liempo) with Java Rice. This was not bad, although we both admit that we have had better. The meat seems to have stayed in a strong vinegar-based marinade for too long, leaving the pork belly with an overpowering sour flavor. We still finished it, though.

We also shared a single order of the famous Pancit Bihon – thin rice noodles wok-fried with vegetables, pork and topped with crushed chicharon. The dish was still piping-hot when it arrived at the table, and at first bite, you know why it has been so popular all these years. The noodles pleasantly tasted of garlic, the vegetable still crisp despite the quick toss in the wok. The chicharon naturally takes everything over the top, adding a flavor dimension only deep-fried pork rinds can give.

As the mid-afternoon sun breaks through the windows of the restaurant, Cookie Goddess and I sit back for a minute and happily pat our content stomachs. This was one of the simpler meals that we recently had, and yet probably one of the most pleasurable. A good meal really has no specific price tag, and comes in the most surprising circumstances. That’s why I think it’s good to revisit old favorites, to rekindle old romances with dishes you have almost forgotten. Luckily, I decided to give this old flame another try, and- unlike nasty exes- Three Sisters’ pork barbecue did not disappoint.

Three Sisters’ Restaurant
United St.
Brgy. Capitolyo, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6314431

Not Just Shawarma

2010-06-22T23:29:00.006+08:00

One balmy Wednesday, Matt and I- along with our favorite foodie couple Sanju and Cutie- braved the Baclaran Day traffic and headed to Manila for what should be some really delicious Persian food. With Middle Eastern cuisine quickly being integrated into the Filipino diet (I do not know anyone who has not tried shawarma), I am actually curious to find what could be considered as authentic Keema (ground beef sautéed in spices) and Kebabs. Shawarma Snack Center (SSC) in Ermita comes highly recommended by the abovementioned couple, and so far, Matt and I pointed out that they have yet to disappoint us.

Seeing the imposing two-level restaurant, I quickly assume that this is not just a shawarma joint. At the door, you are greeted by two Egyptian statues that look like they belong in the Guggenheim Hermitage Museum and not in the middle of the former red light district. Once inside, though, the décor is purely utilitarian, save for a few Arabian lamps hanging from the ceiling. There is a display counter with various pickled vegetables and some ready-made dips and salads. What really struck me, though, was the crowd: almost all of the diners were Middle-eastern baby boomers, either sipping tea or sharing a shesha pipe or both. This, if anything, is a strong sign of the restaurant’s authenticity.

We let our friends order for us since, judging from their repartee with the manager, they appeared to be long-time patrons of the restaurant. Matt and I had a few favorites that we told them about and they happily obliged us.

To start things off, we had some Beef and Hummus (sautéed ground beef on top of a chickpea and tahini dip) and Motabal (grilled eggplant and yougurt dip) with flat bread. The beef and hummus was just alright, although I appreciated the fact that they included whole chickpeas to the mix. I love Motabal, even the commercialized variety, so SSC’s version was a winner for me. Matt, who is not a big fan of eggplant, thought so, too.

The mains for sharing came in rapid succession, and our table was almost too small for the amount of food that was coming our way. My all-time favorite Keema did not fail to impress. The flavors emanating from the ground beef was just right- fragrant, oily (in a good way) and with just the right amount of heat. With a little bit of garlic sauce, it was simply off-the-charts. If you love Keema as much as I do, this might be the benchmark for all the other local Persian restaurants.

I admit the Keema can still be subject of debate, but SSC’s Ox Brain is undeniably the best I have ever tried. As we were ordering, the manager said that it was out-of-stock, but seeing our sad, pathetic faces after that, she got some from the original- but much smaller- SSC right across. This is truly the stuff of legend- the brain was generously flavored with garlic and completely devoid of the funkiness you sometimes get from ox brain. The texture was that of a very creamy scrambled egg, its taste similar to that of penoy (the more edible part of the infamous balut). I know that the comparison could not possibly help its case, but you have to try it for yourself. Just dab a bit of it on any protein and the instant effect is that of foie gras- adding instant richness and umami.

We also ordered Beef Kebab, which was a favorite of ours. Unfortunately, it was quite dry and the flavor was oddly overpowering.

Any good Middle-Eastern meal would not be complete without lamb, so we ordered the Sizzling Lamb which was recommended by the manager. It was quite good and Matt liked it a lot because it was extremely tender and seasoned to perfection. I was still fixated on the Keema at this point, so I barely touched it. Matt did not mind, I’m sure.

Another surprise hit was the Chili Liver- sliced beef liver sautéed with green chili. Again, the flavors were so clean that it tasted more like a steak than innards. This dish was perfect with the tasty and fluffy Biryani rice.

To accompany our carnivorous spread, Cutie ordered a refreshing cucumber salad- it was the perfect side dish to balance the fattiness of the meat and the heat of the spices. Simple yet very effective.

Stuffed from our heavy, protein-rich dinner, we needed a little help with digestion. Sanju had some strong Turkish Coffee, while Matt, Cutie and I shared a pot of the equally-strong Rabea tea. To top it all off, we also shared two shesa pipes- one apple flavored, the other lemon. It was a truly delightful experience, smoking that pipe and sipping tea, surrounded by Middle-Easterns as we all watched a World Cup match on the flat-screen. I almost felt like I was in a Turkish café, just absorbing the local color. It felt different, yet comfortable.

We capped-off the evening with a few drinks at Café Havana in Adriatico St., since SSC did not serve liquor, like most Persian restaurants in the country. After some mojitos, beers and a round of shots, we were ready to call it a night, pretty sure that by then, it was safe to sleep after that huge and delicious dinner. No nightmares that night, only sweet dreams about Bradley Cooper and ox brain.

Shawarma Snack Center
R. Salas cor. A. Mabini Streets
Ermita, Manila
Tel. no. (632) 5254541

When Kate Baked

2010-06-03T17:04:00.002+08:00

I needed a short pause before writing this entry, not because of the complexity of the topic at hand, but because I needed some time to regain my composure.

After having an excellent meal or a superb bottle of wine, maybe even a phenomenal evening all in all, I give myself some time to step back from my euphoria and look at the meal (or wine, or evening) from a more objective point-of-view. Nothing is more annoying than a gushy writer- an obvious fan (or friend) whose sole objective is to build up the chef or the restaurant and gives nothing by flawless and sparkly information, in turn misleading the reader and giving a false impression.

What makes this entry difficult to write is because I am indeed both fan and friend. Kate Baked Cookies is the handiwork of one of my best friends and fellow food fiend Kate Santos, a.k.a Cookie Goddess. Her home-baked cookies have been famous in our circle (and several others) for a few years now, their popularity continuing to grow, thanks mostly to the (very) satisfied customers who never fail to sing the big, chewy cookies praises.

Having lost my “sweet tooth” after my mom discouraged my chocolate addiction at a young age, very seldom do I have cravings for desserts. Once in a while, I would spot a box of truffles or a slice of cheesecake and, yes, I might get tempted and give in. But, I must admit, Kate Baked Cookies are one of those things that could be devastatingly addicting. Just ask the sexy restauranteur who polishes off a dozen in one sitting, or the French instructor who orders several boxes at a time for him and his wife.

I myself cannot point a finger at what makes these cookies so good. It must be the total sensory experience- from the pretty sky blue box, to the chocolate or butterscotch mounds atop huge discs the size of saucers, to the comforting scent that only freshly-baked cookies can conjure. The texture as you bite into it is undeniably chewy, you can feel its baked goodness almost melting in your mouth. The molten chips of chocolate (in this case, either dark, white or milk chocolate Toblerone) add a sweet creaminess to an already decadent dessert. Am I gushing? Darn it!

Go ahead and try them yourself, they are simply scrumptious. And I’m not just saying that because Kate is my friend.

Photography by Pearl Perlada for Big Bang Studios

Kate Baked Cookies
+639178369112
Katherine.santos@gmail.com
http://katebaked.multiply.com/

Cantonese Cuisine Festival at Tin Hau

2010-05-28T15:41:00.005+08:00

Dim Sum is one of those styles of cooking wherein you cannot cut corners and scrimp on ingredients. Yes, you can find some pleasure in fastfood Chinese restaurants and supermarket stalls, but nothing beats dim sum that has an artisanal feel to it, recipes and techniques handed down through generations of apprentices and kin. In the masterful hands of a dim sum chef, seafood, vegetables and minced meat become bite-sized pockets of flavorful treats- wrappers are home and handmade, succulent and firm once steamed to perfection; the filling is made with generous portions of fresh, hand-chopped ingredients. The result is generally nothing short of flawless.

My new friends at Mandarin Oriental invited me to lunch to have a taste of their Cantonese Cuisine Festival at Tin Hau. Three award-winning chefs from one of Hong Kong’s top restaurant chains- Super Star Seafood Restaurant- will lord over Tin Hau’s kitchen throughout this week to give Manila a taste of their Cantonese specialties.
Memorable dishes during our lunch were:

Stir-fried Diced Beef with Wasabi sauce- the beef was butter-soft and the sauce had just the right amount of wasabi heat.

Fresh Radish and Fungus Salad- Aside from the aesthetic appeal, this dish is both refreshing and earthy. The sweet and tart flavor of the radish nicely balances the mushroomy-umami of the fungus.

Steamed Prawn stuffed with Scallop- Clean flavors of shrimp are accented perfectly by the salty dried scallop.

Steamed Fish Dumpling with Stir-fried Scallop- I did not care much for the stir-fried scallop (which did not do much for the dish except make it pretty), but the dumpling was perfectly-executed.

Stonefish cooked two-ways- The first preparation is steamed in a lotus leaf, the other is stir-fried with egg white. I enjoyed the texture of this particular fish, its firm and flavorful flesh holding up well to both cooking techniques.

Marshmallow in Rabbit Shape and Jello- the flavors are nothing fabulous and outlandish, but it was just too darn cute. Just looking at it put a smile on my face.

The star of the lunch was most definitely the Dim Sum Platter- deep-fried dumpling in crab shape, penguin dumpling (no, it’s not made with actual penguins), and pan-fried dumpling. The crab-shaped dumpling had a unique flavor coming from its pastry-like crust. The sweetness lent a nice contrast to the savory filling and salty soy sauce. The pan-fried dumpling reminded me of gyoza, which I liked. The most eye-catching of the bunch has got to be the penguin dumpling, which is actually generously-stuffed with shrimp and fish. The wrapper, in my opinion, is what separates their dim sum from the average teahouse variety. It is thick and yet translucent, holding all its contents in until all that flavorful goodness is ready to burst into your mouth.

For those who are confident enough to learn how to make these delectable treats at home, the guest chefs will have a cooking class and lunch on May 29, starting 9AM. For reservations or more information on the cooking class, you can call Mandarin Oriental Manila at (632) 7508888. Enjoy!

Brunch-ing Manila: Sala Bistro

2010-05-25T16:19:00.005+08:00

Another hangover-free Saturday morning and I was excited about brunch. My date- Cookie Goddess- and I were headed to Sala Bistro to try their famous champagne brunch menu.

I remember reading about brunch at Sala even before they moved to Makati from Malate. Restaurant owner and Chef Colin McKay actually opened Sala Bistro so that there would be a cozier and more relaxed venue for this particular weekend activity.

Not that the bistro is less sleek and classy than its fine dining cousin- Sala Bistro’s interiors ooze contemporary elegance with a moderate laidback edge. Floor to ceiling windows usher in the warm late morning sun, reflecting colorful rays of light through the curtain-like glass chandeliers.

Cookie Goddess and I order our two courses each which is required by the brunch menu (one main course and one pudding) along with unlimited pours of Australian sparkling wine, on its own or mixed with orange juice, peach juice or Cassis. The juices were great, but Cookie Goddess and I agreed that the modified Kir Royale was the way to go.

Cookie Goddess ordered the Two Poached Eggs on toasted ciabatta topped with prosciutto and hollandaise. This is finished under the grill to lightly toast the top, just like the classic Eggs Benedict. I had a bite of this and I must admit I could have had at least five more. The eggs were perfectly poached- light, creamy, almost ethereal. The prosciutto was sliced paper thin and added just enough saltiness to the dish. A bit lighter than the rich, gooey Eggs Benedict that I’m more used to, but I liked its clean flavors.

Craving for something a bit heavier, I opted for the Bistro Minute Steak- Pan-seared Australian Beef Fillet on toasted sourdough with spiced tomato chutney and onion rings. This dish could have been a success if not for the fact that it was difficult to eat- the beef was borderline-rubbery, the toasted sourdough a bit hard. Unfortunate, since the chutney was bursting with exotic flavors and the onion rings were the best I have ever had. Both my and Cookie Goddess’ dishes were accompanied with the most delectable potato hash.

For “dessert”, Cookie Goddess picked the Ricotta and Banana Pancakes with Maple Syrup. Again, this dish was simply delicious: The pancakes were fluffy but rich, and the bananas were perfectly caramelized.

I had the Rum and Raisin Bread and Butter Pudding, an instant favorite. Having gotten used to the bread puddings simmering in hotel buffet tables, I have almost forgotten how really good bread pudding tastes like. Sala Bistros version delivers in every point- the pudding is warmed through and comforting, with calorific flavors of milk and butter; the sauce perfectly complimentary, thick and distinctly laced with rum and cinnamon; raisin ice cream is velvety and has just the right touch of sweetness…Truly a champion dessert in my book.

A full meal and three to four glasses (each) of bubbly cocktails later, Cookie Goddess and I ambled towards her car and drove to nearby Rockwell. I misunderstood my sister Foxychef’s instructions and it landed us in my parents’ place, both of us laughing drunkenly at my stupidity, while everyone else watched in amusement (or was it disgust?). We attempted to sober up with some iced cappuccinos at Cibo while snacking on spinach dip and potato chips.

I think I should do this more often.

Sala Bistro
G/F Greenbelt 3
Makati Ave.
Makati City
(632) 7294888

A Taste of Wine and Spirits 2010

2010-05-20T16:46:00.003+08:00

Last week, I was invited to attend the press preview of Wine and Spirits 2010- Mandarin Oriental Manila’s annual wine and food festival that gathers the country’s top wine dealers to showcase their premium selections of the world’s most sought-after vino. On its third year, wine and food lovers will get to sample an impressive line-up of wines from Wine Depot, Future Trade, Le Cellier, Barcino, Philippine Wine Merchants, Brumms, BBB, Sommelier Selection, Moet-Hennessy/Rams House of Wines, Manny O., Titania Wine Cellar, Inc., Straits Wine, among others, with the delectable cuisine Mandarin Oriental is famous for.

As I walked into the Blondel Room on the 3rd floor, I was welcomed by Mandarin’s witty PR and Events Officer Erica Aquino, and her very charming boss, Charisse Chuidian. A few food writers and magazine editors were already munching on the mouth-watering spread of coldcuts, cheeses, hot and cold tapas, and desserts prepared by Executive chef Rene Ottlik. I loved the assorted Spanish cheeses and cold cuts, the delicious gazpacho, and the Croquetas de Jamon Iberico Belotta. This was merely a fraction of what will be served on the actual event, the massive chef (as in MMA fighter “massive”) from Leipzig, Germany explained. Aside from the coldcuts and appetizers, there will also be a raclette station, a quiche station and a risotto and pasta station. Honestly, if I wasn’t a lush, I would still go just for the food.

Don’t think I forgot about the wines, though. I tried my best to sample as many of the almost a hundred bottles from the hundreds more that was selected by the hotel’s resident wine expert, the adorable Mirko di Giorgi (Note: He’s single, ladies. For now, at least). The Italian-German from Frankfurt was busy refilling everyone’s glasses and answering wine questions. Since it was incredibly hot and humid that day, I was happy to drain their supply of sparkling and white wines. Some of my favorites were the Chandon bubblies, Gunderloch Riesling Kabinett 2005, Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2008, Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer 2008, Martin Codax Albarino 2008, and Bott-Geyl Les Elements Muscat 2007. These are very easy to drink, approachable wines that are perfect for the scorching Manila summer. I also spotted some Riojas and Italian reds that I would have wanted to try, but the heat just made it impossible. Another great reason to go to the actual event in June, I suppose.

I had a really fun time chatting with fellow foodies and writers- author and PDI columnist Mickey Fenix, Editor-in-Chief Ana Marie Ozaeta of F & B World, Atty. Freddy Pio de Roda of Metro Society, FHM columnist Chef Toto Erfe of CACS, my former editor Aissa Gonzalez of Philippine Tatler’s Best Restaurants and Margaux Salcedo of Sunday Inquirer Magazines. I hope to bump into them again in June 4, 2010, 7PM, at the Mandarin Ballroom.

Actually, why don’t we ALL go? It’s going to be fun. There’s going to be live Jazz music and a bunch of prizes up for grabs. Cheers!

Tickets to Mandarin Oriental’s third annual wine event are available at the hotel’s Lobby Shop at P2,200 nett (so worth it!) and include entrance to the event, as well as free-flowing wine and food. For more information, call the hotel at (632) 7508888 or e-mail momnl-fb@mohg.com.

New Dishes at an Old Favorite

2010-05-12T12:59:00.004+08:00

I love those get-togethers that are totally random. Matt had a dinner meeting in Makati, so I was left with nothing to do after work. Luckily, my favorite single ladies- Mrs. Nadal and Cookie Goddess- were free that evening. I remember that Terry’s Segundo Piso had new menu items so- without having to worry about Matt and his dietary restrictions- I asked the girls if they wanted to try it out. As expected, their reply was a resounding “yes”.

They picked me up at my parents’ place and we all headed to Segundo Piso’s Pasong Tamo branch. The restaurant is located above (hence, the name) their famous deli where their impressive wine selection and European delicacies are made available to us foodies. The spacious dining room is modern and cozy, making it the perfect place to indulge without having to fuss over what to wear. Everything seems unchanged, from the wooden shelves filled with wine bottles, the high ceiling and the open kitchen. As usual, we spot the owner and culinary icon JC de Terry, with his brother-in-law Antonio Garcia and two other ladies. Mrs. Nadal says hello while Cookie Goddess and I find our table.

Famished, we look through the snazzy new menu and marvel at the number of new dishes being offered. Without waiting for Mrs. Nadal (who was still chatting with JC and company), we quickly order new appetizers to try. Our wine of choice- a 2008 Protos Rosado from Ribera del Duero- was already chilled, so we quickly had our pours before it was submerged in an ice bucket. I love this rose with Spanish food- just enough acidity to cut through the fat and the right balance of fruit and dryness to compliment almost any dish.

When Mrs. Nadal finally came to our table, the server informed us that our order of Duck for the Gods (OMG, right?) was not available, so we asked Mrs. Nadal to pick something else. Despite hints to pick from the new appetizers, she still decided to go with the classic- Chorizo on Piggyback. I cannot blame her- this classic SP dish never fails to disappoint in terms of flair and flavor. The chorizo is first flambéed in a pig-shaped clay cooking vessel before being sliced and plated. I noticed that the plating in SP has improved greatly, adding to the aesthetic appeal of their dishes.

Our next appetizer was the Tuna Belly Tempura with Artichoke Dip. Purists would gasp at the sight of this in a Spanish menu, but as they thoughtfully explain to us gringos, tempura was actually brought to Japan from Spain by Jesuit priests. So, tempura IS Spanish. Pushing technicalities aside, it was simply scrumptious- the crispy batter was flavorful and airy, while the fish was flaky and moist. The dip, too, was a nice accompaniment with its subtle earthiness and texture from the artichokes.

As we chatted and chewed on the tempura, the Stuffed Piquillo Peppers arrive. This is one sexy dish if I have ever seen one. The bright red peppers- looking shiny and lacquered- slide around your mouth as you slowly break them down with your tongue. The stuffing is creamy and velvet smooth with delicate flavors of cheese and Iberico. I can imagine Javier Bardem and Penelope Cruz feeding each other this dish with their hands in that sexy way that they do… Penelope’s thick, tousled dark hair just brushing the peaks of her decolletage as she leans over to pop a stuffed pepper into Javier’s full mouth. You get what I mean.

Finally, the Paella Negra is served- a personal favorite, something SP does very well. Cookie Goddess and I both notice, though, that it seemed to be lacking in flavor a bit. We really could not place a finger on it (The broth was bland? Not enough squid ink?), but there seemed to be something missing. Whatever it was, we still finished the dish off. It was still good, but being used to superlatives when it comes to SP’s paellas, we knew we have had better.

Needless to say, the girls and I will be back again to try more of their new dishes, as well as to “re-try” the old favorites. It makes me happy to see that an old-timer like JC de Terry continues to challenge himself and is more than happy to give his regulars something new and adventurous. He’s a true artist, as his many fans call him, and I could not wait to try more of his new creations.

Segundo Piso at Terry’s Selection
Karivin Plaza
Pasong Tamo Ext.
Makati City
Tel. no. (632) 8441816

Segundo Piso has other branches in One Lafayette Sedeno cor. Valero Sts., Salcedo Village, Makati City and at the Lower Ground Floor of The Podium, San Miguel Ave., Ortigas Center, Pasig City.

Brunch-ing Manila: Mamou

2010-05-05T16:03:00.007+08:00

Brunch is one of my favorite indulgences. First of all, it’s not an activity I can do every day: I do have a day job, you know. On most days, breakfast consists of a soggy bowl of oatmeal and some eggs, or maybe cereal, and then I’m blitzing out the door. Second, I do not have the metabolism (or the talent of regurgitating my meals) of a Brazilian supermodel that I can treat myself to regular helpings of bacon, French toast, eggs Benny, and all the other delectables you’ll find in a brunch menu. Finally, on weekends when I can actually have brunch, I sometimes find myself hungover and tired that the best meal I could think of is my trusty fixer-upper of instant noodle soup and ice-cold Coke Zero.

When I do get the chance, though, brunch could be pure bliss. In Manila- where tapsilog (beef tapa, garlic fried rice and fried egg) continues its reign as the ultimate all-day breakfast meal (and for good reason)- brunch is quickly becoming a favorite weekend past time. Several restaurants have decided to jump on its popularity and are opening their doors a couple of hours earlier to serve their versions of several breakfast favorites.

Mamou has been serving brunch for a couple of years now and are still packing them in. On Saturdays and Sundays, they open at 10 AM to offer a few brunch menu items along with their regular menu.

Matt and I have decided to stay in one Saturday, and so we both had the energy to rise from bed at 9AM the next day. I called before 10 to see if we could be squeezed in for their second seating, and Annie- Mamou’s charming sister- said that she can easily get us a table for two. Great! Yaya Del also decided to take the day off, so it was perfect timing for a little weekend pampering.

When Matt and I arrived, we were quickly led to our table, which- curiously- had both of our names on it. Matt thought it was cute and told me later on that I should have taken a picture of it, since normally they just put the name of the person who called to reserve.

As we checked out the menu, I was tempted to try the new dishes in their regular line-up of Mamou’s specialties. We have not been back for quite a while, so I found myself being lured towards the Bottarga pasta. But, I quickly reminded myself that we were there for brunch, and so I returned my attention towards the brunch menu.

While waiting for our dishes, I sipped on a Mamou’sBellini- a refreshing mix of sparkling wine and either orange or grapefruit juice.

First to arrive was Matt’s order of Pappy’s Toast- smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, capers and cream cheese on top of toasted wholewheat sourdough. We were pleasantly surprised by the mountain of smoked salmon which, for the price, is really a good deal. Matt loves his smoked salmon, and oftentimes he is disappointed when he is presented with a flimsy portioning of the stuff. Luckily, Mamou delivered.

I willed myself not to order the Eggs Benedict, and got myself the Rau’s Platter- Two slices of French toast, two tiny “pancakes”, and some Neurmberger sausages. If I must nitpick, I have to admit that the description of this dish on the menu was a bit difficult to understand. Despite a long consultation with the waiter, I was still pretty confused about what I was getting. In the end, I just said, “Er, Ok, I’ll have the sausages with it”, just to move things along. Good thing I was happy with what came out. I loved how whole eggs were integrated into the toast, and how the bread was soft and fluffy, melting in my mouth after being doused in syrup. The sausages were delicious- juicy, garlicky, peppery. Everything good sausages should be.

When we were done with our plates, we were quickly tempted by the server with dessert. Matt and I decided to share their Pecan Pie with Schlagzhane (sweetened whipped cream), something we have had a few times before. Warm, sweet, gooey- it was the perfect ending to a really good Sunday brunch.

Mamou
Serendra Piazza
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City
Tel. no. (632)8563569

Let It Be... Mediterranean

2010-04-13T15:03:00.008+08:00

The birthday of a dear cousin, Kuya Vince, brought me and some relatives to Alabang one weekend. It is very rare that I take a car ride longer than thirty minutes for a meal, like those special occasions when dinner at Antonio’s in Tagaytay is called for. But then, Kuya Vince- like most of us in our family- loves his food, so I immediately assume that the restaurant where we will be celebrating his birthday has the following qualities: good food, reasonable prices, and “manly-man” servings. These, predictably, have piqued my curiosity. So, I skip the usual weekend partying to prepare myself for the long drive and the hearty lunch the following day.

Fortunately, the ride from my parents’ place in Makati until the Filinvest Exit on SLEX did not take longer than thirty minutes. When we arrived at Sophia's Mediterranean Deli, we were warmly welcomed at the door by the chef/owner Mervyn Whitfield. The friendly Brit is famously known to have cooked for the legendary band, The Beatles, among other celebrities. He has decided to retire in the Philippines with his Filipina wife and kids and ended up opening the Greek/Italian/Turkish/French restaurant in Alabang.

The cheery interiors are obviously Greek- white plastered walls, Aegean blue shutters, wrought iron staircase, gas lamps as light fixtures, large Grecian urns holding mini palm trees. You get the shabby chic feel that puts you right at ease but still gives off a polished look.

As we hungrily waited for the rest to arrive, we decide to start ordering for everyone to share. Since the dishes were served family-style, I got to try a little bit of (almost) everything. With the amount of food that we ordered, I do not remember which ones came in what order. I have decided to just group the dishes into two categories: The “musts” and “must avoids”.

You must have…

Pizza Quatro Formagia- Amusingly, two orders of this pizza came to our table before we even ordered them. It was meant for another table, obviously, but as fate would have it, they were the wrong size. Famished, we were only too happy to accommodate them at our table and welcome them into their new homes- our hungry bellies. The toppings are just right and the perfect combination of gooey, pungent and rich. I would not drive all the way to Alabang for this, but if I find myself in the area, this would surely be my go-to pizza place.

Blue Cheese Salad- Simple, straight-forward flavors. Fresh salad greens lightly coated with a tangy vinaigrette, then topped with copious amounts of crumbly blue cheese, walnuts and tomatoes.

Bruschetta- crispy rounds of sliced baguette and topped by a fresh pomodoro sauce. The diced tomatoes are sweet and nicely accented by a hint of garlic and olive oil. It’s a really nice light starter or snack.

Kalamarikia (Fried Calamari)- Again, a pretty straight-forward dish- quite common and easy to make, but is also easy to mess up. The breaded crust is crispy and nicely-flavored, the thin rings of squid moist and tender. Dipped in aioli, it’s quite addicting.

Grilled Prawns with Mashed Potatoes- I wasn’t able to taste the grilled prawns, but I was told that it was cooked perfectly. The mashed potatoes I did try though, and yes, it tastes as good as it looks.

Osso Bucco (family-sized) with Mashed Potatoes- “Parang mechado”, my Tito Boy said with his signature chuckle. But, despite the similarity to the local stew, it really was not bad. Well, we did end up finishing it, right down to the bone. The beef shank was very tender and the tomato sauce quite flavorful.

Baby Back Ribs- Although I was not able to try this, the huge platter of the massive pork ribs remained in front of the birthday celebrant the entire time. He obviously loves it. I say, it must be good.

Veal Lemono- I am not a big fan of breaded meats, but once in a while I get a craving for veal scallopine. This one was flavored- delicately, almost prettily- by fragrant lemons and some seriously delicious butter. And again, those darn good mashed potatoes…

Sadly, you must avoid…

Chicken Liver Pate- The spread had an unpleasant aftertaste that I could barely stand. I did not even finish the slice of pita that came with it.

The pastas- I got to try two kinds- one with a tomato cream sauce and the other was a Ravioli Verde. Unfortunately, the former arrived swimming in sauce, and the latter was a bright Irish green. Aside from being visually unappetizing, they were also lacking in flavor. Too bad.

Seafood Platter- Although this was a pretty sight, I have to admit that I have had better grilled seafood. The mussels were pretty dry and this time around the squid rings were quite tough.

Overall, it was a good lunch made great by the wonderful company. I had an awesome time chatting with the adults and watching my cute nieces and nephews goof around and play. Some of the grown-ups even joined in the fun and went along with the silliness. That’s what I love about my family… We sure are far from perfect, but when we get together, it is always great fun.

Sophia’s Mediterranean Deli
Westgate, Filinvest
Alabang, Muntinlupa City
Tel. no. (632)7717717

Soup Worth Sweating For

2010-03-25T10:18:00.002+08:00

I know, I know. What am I doing, eating hot soup in the middle of this punishing Manila summer? I thought the same thing when my sister, Foxychef, sent me a text that she is having Shabu-shabu (an oriental stew consisting of meat, seafoods, noodles and vegetables, usually cooked right on the table) with my parents for lunch and they are picking me up at the office. But then, I haven’t seen Foxychef this excited about food in a really long time, so I knew that there must be something special about this particular shabu-shabu.

Lau Chan is a small operation and it looks like it hasn’t changed since the day it opened. The dated furniture, harsh fluorescent lighting and grandma’s wallpaper immediately tell you that this is not a date place. For sure, that is not the reason this place is packed during lunch and the dining room is abuzz with activity. “It’s all about the food”, I thought to myself.

After we were seated, the server asked us what kind of broth we wanted for our shabu-shabu. From a sheet of paper, we picked out the items we wanted to cook in the broth, such as fresh beef and squid balls, vegetables, sliced beef belly, fish cakes, and udon noodles. Bowls of minced garlic, hot chili peppers, sate sauce and shabu-shabu sauce were placed in front of us. Compared to the ones at Mini Shabu-shabu, the sauces are much tastier and more authentic.

As we wait for the broth to boil, I wonder just how different this shabu-shabu could be from the others I have tried. After all, boiled food is just that- boiled food. Right?

Wrong! As we slowly immersed the ingredients into the boiling soup, you could smell the deep, concentrated spices that you can only get from hours of simmering. The flavorful broth lends its strong essence to the vegetables and the meats as they quickly cook in the hotpot. Paper-thin slices of beef belly are dipped into the pot for a few seconds before dunking it again into the sauce mixture. With the thick udon, this stew on its own is a pretty hearty meal. But, with the savory aromas from the pot and the addictive dipping sauce, I could not stop myself from cooking and eating until there was no space left in my groaning stomach.

Full beyond belief with sweat hanging from my upper lip, I lean back on my chair with a satisfied grin. That was probably the best shabu-shabu meal I have had so far. And it only got better when we got the check for less than P1000. It’s going to be hard to top that.

Lau Chan Shabu-shabu and Fast Foods
Mabini St.
Malate, Manila

Lu and Wagyu

2010-03-25T09:40:00.007+08:00

It was a great morning to begin with.

The summer sun was bashfully peering through our blinds in the bedroom, the slits allowing a peek at the majestic expanse of the golf course below, while the sheets and pillows were pleasantly cool from the air conditioning. Matt is sleeping soundly beside me, muttering incomprehensible phrases in German while he dreams. I enjoy these quiet moments in the morning when I get to move around at my own pace, going through my morning rituals as I slowly get energized for the day ahead.

I check my e-mails as I usually do, and there it was: an invitation to dinner from Luis de Terry at his restaurant, Lu. It was exciting enough to be summoned to a tasting dinner by one of Manila’s explosive new chefs, but when he said that it was a tie-up with the local distributors of Snake River Farms Wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork, it was truly what some of my wildest gastronomic fantasies are made of. Without even asking if I could bring my husband or if our common friend Maggie was also going, I immediately say “yes”. All of a sudden, what was a pleasant morning just got ten times better, and I jump back into bed and snuggle up to my hubby (Yes, pervs, we just snuggled).

Fast forward to a week later and I was psyched. As I walked into Lu’s well-lit interior, the handsome chef/owner greeted me and introduced me to his sister and friends. We then chatted about the dishes and I asked him if there was going to be wine pairing. “Of course! “, he exclaims, “in fact, I better get started before I have too much Krug”. “Krug champagne?! Why didn’t you say so! Give me some of that!” I tell Luis, who quickly motioned to the bartender and then made a beeline for the kitchen. I get my bubbly from the bar and scan the room for a seat.

Luckily, I spot the familiar face of my Tito Randy and make my way towards him. A ferocious foodie and wine lover, he was also one of the lucky few whom Lu invited to the event. Always full of energy and armed with a quick wit and great sense of humor, I could not have asked for a better dinner companion. Plus, he’s a cardiologist, so in the worst-case scenario that my heart stops beating after five courses of wagyu beef, then at least I’m covered.

The other guys at our table were: Ramon del Gallego, brother of part-owner Christine; and Tito Locsin, Christine’s boyfriend. Without bias, I really think we had the craziest table. Conversations flowed naturally and topics transitioned with ease from food to travel to sex and back again, punctuated by raucous fits of laughter. I noticed we had a lot of visitors at our table (like Teddy Montelibano and Manoy Llige), and I kind of wished that we had more space to accommodate all the interesting characters I met that night.

Finally, the event opens with an introduction about Snake River Farms and their products. As we fidgeted in our seats, eager to get dinner going, they showed us a short documentary about the company, its history and their commitment to excellence. The clip was quite informative and made me appreciate the dinner that was about to be served even more.

In the short e-mails Chef Lu and I exchanged the week before the dinner, he described vaguely to me what he plans to do with the featured meats. Although he did not go into detail, he told me that he has informed Alternatives Food Corporation (the local distributor of SRF products) that the food will be prepared in his signature bold style. This means, of course, lush and exotic flavors from Latin America, Africa and the Mediterranean with a breath of sexy Asian influences. This is normally scary terrain for me, but I learn to trust Luis and his craziness and just brace myself for the culinary roller coaster ride I know I am about to go on.

First to tease our palate was an appetizer of Flat Iron Carpaccio & Curry Cream Nigiri/Top Blade and Artichoke Phyllo Pinwheel. I pick up the “sushi” with my fingers and scrape a bit of the cream with it. The cream was surprisingly light but firm, like it was vigorously whipped and then chilled. The curry was not overpowering and the musky flavor acts as an accent to the lean meat. The boys seem to favor the pinwheel, though, with its complex play on textures- the tenderness of the beef alongside the crisp asparagus, fresh scallions and fried phyllo. A shot of sake completes the plate and highlights the playful allusion to Asian flavors. We all agree that we were off to a good start.

The next course was a Pillowed Kurobuta Pork Belly Confit/Kurobuta Cochinita Pibil on Turmeric Puri. The pork belly was served kuapao-style in a thick but airy bun. I was hoping for more flavor and crunch from this one, so I preferred the Pibil which was perfectly juicy and aromatic, accented by the sweet-sour of the pickled onions. The dish was accompanied by a glass of Mays Chardonnay ’07. I liked how it was young and had a nice acidity to it that cut through the sweet and pungent flavors as well as the rich fattiness of the pork.

The “fish” course came in the form of a Moroccan Ox Tongue & Fresh Water Prawn Salad, accompanied by the same white wine. “They said it cannot be done”, Luis shared later on. But true to his rebellious style of cooking, he went ahead and grilled the ox tongue around batonettes of zucchini and mushrooms. It had a very mild smokiness to it and a surprisingly soft texture. This dish was a modest success, a chilled-out interlude to what has so far been a full-on attack on the senses.

My favorite dish for the night was the Harissa Glazed Tenderloin Brochettes/Peruvian Anticucho Hanger Steak. This is a great example of taking the highest-quality ingredients and using simple techniques executed to perfection. The brochettes were grilled medium-rare and alive with the flavors of exotic spices. The hanger steak was lean and butter-soft, the couscous pleasantly fragrant and fluffy. Amazing, amazing flavors, all around. I hope they put this on their regular menu. The accompanying glass of Chateau Pauillac ’04 had a nice full body that went well with this bombshell of a dish.

I go outside for a smoke and by this time people are in a party mood. I loitered outside a bit longer than usual and, when I came back inside, my table companions have started with their Wagyu Gold Rib-eye with Dalandan-Chipotle Butter, accompanied by a glass of Callejo Reserva ’05. My steak was a tad overcooked, which I think is partly my fault since it must have been sitting in the warmer while I was outside. I can only imagine how good the dalandan-chipotle butter would be on a medium-done steak- I loved how you just get a whiff of the local citrus and the butter is both garlicky and just a bit spicy. At this point, I barely finish half of my steak as I feel my stomach being stretched to its limit. I marveled, though, at the men’s appetites as Manoy took small slices from Tito’s steak while he was not looking.

When they set the dessert- Honeydew Melon & Ginger Ice Cream/Wasabi & Orange Tiramisu- down on the table, I can only sleepily stare at it for a moment as I imagine my stomach cursing me. I get extra motivation when I hear Tito Randy exclaim, “Wow! Who would have even dreamt of putting wasabi in Tiramisu? And it actually works!” I take a spoonful of the tiramisu and let it linger in my mouth, as I felt the familiar heat from the wasabi make its way up my nasal passages. Chocolate and orange is a classic combination so it’s not surprising that these two would come together. The ice cream was also a lovely combination of sweet fruitiness and heat, nicely tying up the theme of the dessert.

After dinner, we all applaud the organizers and Chef Lu for an excellent meal. Everyone was definitely on party mode after all the wine and a few of us decided to stay on for some cocktails. After Tito Randy bid us good night, Manoy, Ramon and I ordered more cocktails and (gasp!) shots of Patron (as a much sober Christine looked on in amusement). Luckily, I was sleeping at my parents’ place nearby and did not have to worry about driving home. I was having so much fun with my new friends that I did not want to leave. Eventually, my triple-vision gave me the signal that it was time to re-hydrate and call it a night.

That evening of pure indulgence was definitely one for the books. Lu’s bold and eclectic flavors is something Manila’s culinary landscape has never seen before- a living, breathing organism that is a combination of different tastes and cultures- and it’s exciting to watch how it will continue to evolve. Thank you so much, Luis, for inviting me. I am eagerly awaiting the next one.

Lu
G/F Joya Lofts and Towers
Joya Drive, Rockwell
Makati City
Tel. no. (632)4033991

Alternatives Food Corporation
(Distributor of Snake River Farm products)
Unit 908 Richmonde Plaza
San Miguel Ave. cor. Lourdes St.
Ortigas Center, Pasig City
Tel. no. (632) 6317228-30

Dinner with a View

2010-03-09T16:24:00.004+08:00

It was our last night in Hong Kong and it was officially “date night”.

As much as I longed to try L’Atelier de Robuchon in Landmark or Bo Innovation in Wan Chai, I was just not in the mood to travel far from our hotel. I check my Michelin Guide for something in the area and picked out a resto that was within our budget and not more than ten minutes by cab.

Since Timmy and Cielo were having dinner at a restaurant below, Matt and I decided to have dinner at Aqua, located high above One Peking Road at Tsim Sha Tsui. The elevator took us directly to the restaurant’s lobby where we were greeted by the receptionists. I avoid using the word “chic” since it seems cliché, but it really is the best way to describe it. The frosted acrylic walkway is dimly-lit from below which gives you the feeling of walking on a cloud (or at least, what I imagined it to feel like).

You are then ushered up a few steps towards an automatic glass door that opens into a high-ceilinged dining room. A glass wall three stories high frames the priceless view of the harbor and Hong Kong’s famous skyline. It makes you wonder how much this piece of property must cost. The dark interiors are punctuated by the hanging red lanterns and flickering candles atop hard wood tables. The feel is very cosmopolitan and very posh.

As we requested, we were seated right by the window, which we figured out was not necessary since it seems that the dining room was configured in such a way so that all tables look out onto the harbor. It was a bit tight getting in and out of the couch seat, but other than that, it was a pretty cozy spot.

We ordered a bottle of Italian red wine- a very young (sorry, I forget the vintage) Fontanafredda Eremo, which is a Barbera and Nebbiolo blend. It was very easy to drink, and I remember liking it even more after an hour or so in the glass.

A unique feature of the restaurant is that it serves both Italian and Japanese food. Matt and I love both, but since we favor pizza more than sushi, we opted to go Italian. For our first course, we decided to share the Canelloni with Goat Cheese, Veal Shank Ragout and Spinach Cream, topped by a Porcini Mushroom. Wow! What a stunning dish! Unfortunately, the flavors do not match the presentation- more sex appeal than substance. What a pity.

Hugely disappointed by the first course, I waited for the entrees with mounting dread. Within minutes, our main courses were placed before us. Mine was the Black Angus Tenderloin , Foie Gras, Spinach and Sweet and Sour Pearl Onions. The beef was so incredibly tender it was like chewing on a marshmallow. The flavors all around it were very subtle, allowing the meatiness of the prime cut to shine. The foie added just the right amount of richness, and was also seared to perfection.

Matt also had foie in mind and ordered the Pizza with Duck Confit and Roasted Foie Gras. The crust was thin and crispy, just what we expected from a good pizza. The duck, though, could have been more seasoned. Matt thought this was ok but I could tell he was not completely happy with it. Guiltily, I share my juicy steak with him.

As we waited for dessert, Timmy and Cielo arrived and joined us after their dinner at Hutong. Dessert was a Warm Chocolate Cake with Hazelnut Ice Cream. If you do not like dark chocolate like Cielo, this is not for you. Matt and I liked it, though, loving the bittersweet and gooey center of the cake and the creamy gelato on the side.

We were also given complimentary Grapes soaked in Grappa (a strong Italian spirit made by distilling the pomace of grapes) which acted like a digestivo. It adds a nice touch to the fancy meal.

Although it was a pleasant meal, I would not visit this restaurant again for the reason that I know I could have better food for the price I paid. I can imagine why people come here- the interiors are beautiful and the view, priceless. Come here if you want to impress a hot date, maybe a supermodel that eats paper for breakfast. Otherwise, bring your Hong Kong dollars elsewhere.

After dinner, we met Jin at the lobby of One Peking and then we dropped by the Tapas Bar at Kowloon Shangri-la where Timmy had to meet up with some colleagues for some after-conference schmoozing. The rest of us had some drinks in another table while we waited for him and our other friend, Wolfgang.

After a shot of tequila, Cielo was ready to call it a night, while the rest of us went to Kimberley Road for drinks at Knutsford Terrace. We went to this bar called All Night Long, which is manned by an all-Filipino staff- from the band to the bartenders. We had fun dancing to 80’s glam rock songs and doing shots. Hungry after all that dancing, Wolfgang volunteered to walk to Ashley Road and pick up some Doner Kebabs from Ebeneezer’s. Needless to say, we devoured most of it, and brought home a couple of extras. Until this day, Timmy regrets giving us the two remaining Kebabs and not taking back one to the hotel.

We left All Night Long at around 2:30AM to bring Jin home to her pad in Clearwater Bay and got back to our hotel at 5:30AM. Yes, it was quite the joy ride, truly a very memorable one. Well, for most of us at least. Jin admits that she cannot remember anything from the time we sat on the bar at All Night Long.

I love Hong Kong.

Aqua
29 & 30/F One Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852) 25459889

All Night Long
9 Knutsford Terrace
Kimberley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852) 23679487

Yummy Yummy La Mian

2010-03-02T16:32:00.003+08:00

After a night of partying at Lan Kwai Fong, I woke up in our dark hotel room with the expected dry mouth and throbbing headache. Matt, who seems to have been hit harder by the vodka truck than I was, is lying motionless next to me, his body emitting what seems to be the harsh smell of gasoline. I knew it was almost noon and so we have surely missed our complimentary breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant.

So, as I await signs of life from my husband, I just lay there and fantasized about brunch. The moment I awoke, I was already craving for noodle soup and dimsum, and I knew exactly where to go.

I haul a semi-conscious Matt out of bed and into a cab at around 2PM for brunch at Harbour City. It was raining that day, so I thought it would be best to stay indoors. Besides, at the sorry state we were in, I don’t think either of us was in the mood for sightseeing and exploring.

We head straight towards Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao on the third floor of the shopping mall, expecting to be immediately ushered into a half-empty restaurant. “Don’t worry,” I reassure Matt, “It’s 2:30PM. I’m sure the lunch crowd is gone”. Boy, was I ever wrong! There were at least twenty people standing outside, staring transfixed at the number board, hoping that their number comes out next. We got our own number stub from the receptionist and we waited our turn, quite impatiently.

Now, it was bad enough to have to wait in line for a table. But, like a bad joke, the number board was doing this strange flip-flop with the numbers. 356, 357, 358, 359… And then it would go back to 90, 91, 92, and so on. Tired, hungry and hungover, Matt and I were about ready to pounce on that number board and tear it into tiny pieces. Before we knew it, we turned on each other and started fighting about going there. So, to end our madness, Matt got some spinach quiche from a nearby Starbucks to stave-off our hunger until we get a table.

After almost an hour, we were finally shown to our table. Despite the huge Sunday crowd, the modern and casual dining room was clean and organized. The wait staff was scurrying around as fast as they could, but it did not feel chaotic. We immediately order from the Shanghainese menu as if we were a table for four. We sip on some hot tea which was on the table when we arrived, assuming it was complimentary. We were shocked later on to discover that we were charged for it! I do not really mind, since I would have ordered hot tea anyway. But I just do not think it was right to serve customers an item which they did not order and then charge them for it.

Anyway, our food finally arrives, starting with some dimsum. I got myself some Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Pork Dumplings) which is the restaurant’s specialty. The dome-shaped dumplings- filled with a savory pork filling and hot soup- are dipped in dark vinegar, and then consumed by first puncturing the thin wrapper with my teeth and then sipping some of the soup. When the contents have cooled, I suck the dumpling into my mouth, enjoying the strong flavors of scallions and the juicy pork. Obviously, I devoured this before realizing I forgot to take a picture. (Note: Actually, I think Matt asked me if I wanted to take pictures of the food, and I just grunted in reply. Oh well.)

What really made this meal note-worthy, though, was the La Mian with Spicy Beef Soup- another house specialty. La Mian are Chinese hand-pulled noodles cooked either in a soup (usually beef or mutton-flavored) or stir-fried in a tomato-based sauce. The one we ordered was in a steaming, spicy broth flavored with thin beef slices and big red chilies. The result was simply divine- the soup was aromatic and rich in flavor, the spice level was just enough to make you sweat a bit, not painful at all. The noodles were firm, almost elastic, to the point that it took some effort to cut them. For me, it was close to perfection, the best bowl of noodles I have had in a very long time.

Matt also ordered some dishes for himself but they were just ok. We both agreed that the La Mian was the star of this meal.

After our late brunch, we walked out of Harbour City and saw that it was still drizzling. With our stomachs full and our heads still buzzing from the night before, we just shrugged and decided to go back to the hotel for a nap. I was a bit guilty about wasting a whole afternoon in the hotel room when I should be enjoying the sights and the shopping. But then, with the cool, rainy day and our tummies full of delicious hot soup, I really could not think of a better thing to do at that point.

Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao
3/F Harbour City
Canton Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)26222699

The Rich and the Famous

2010-02-24T09:27:00.008+08:00

No, I am not talking about the celebrities blitzing around Beverly Hills in their Rolls-Royce Phantoms or the royal brats vacationing in Monte Carlo. I am talking about a certain goose that is probably just as quintessentially-Hong Kong as the city’s skyline and it’s Victoria Peak.

Ask any local or regular Hong Kong vacationer and they would know that the place-to-be for roast goose is Yung Kee. Acting as Matt’s tour guide for his first trip to the city, I decided to start-off our Saturday night at this Hong Kong institution. We have made plans with a friend to go clubbing in the area anyway, so after taking the Star Ferry from Kowloon (part of the “tour”), getting off at Admiralty, and then taking the cab to Queen’s Road (where we started our trek upwards to Wellington Street), we walked into a jam-packed Yung Kee at around 9PM.

This huge restaurant has four floors, and if what the Michelin Guide says is true, the higher up you are, the better the food. I have eaten in both the ground and 3rd floors, and honestly, I could not tell the difference. So far, all my meals at Yung Kee have been pleasantly memorable.

We were sent up to the 2nd floor wherein the lobby was converted to be the designated receiving area for the restaurant. Soon after, we were given a number by the receptionist and we patiently waited our turn despite our rumbling stomachs. After a 20 minute wait, our number came up and we were given a nice corner table downstairs. I liked that it was far from the center of the busy dining room to avoid being bumped in the head by a frazzled waiter.

I quickly ordered the dishes that I wanted and sipped hot tea as we waited. First to come out was a starter of Preserved Eggs and Pickled Ginger. Even as a child, I have always been fond of this strange-looking delicacy. I like how Yung Kee’s version is gooey in the middle with the century egg’s trademark umami lingering long after I have consumed my share. A friend’s recommendation is to have it with the pickled ginger, which was at the same time sharply acidic and candy-sweet. Matt begged-off a second round, so I immediately order another one for myself.

Next to arrive was our “Consuelo de bobo” order of fresh seasonal vegetables (I forget what it’s called) to accompany our main dish, as well as two cups of steamed rice. It was very simply sautéed in garlic and oil allowing the fresh vegetal quality to shine through. It took a while for our entrée to come out, so we had to send the rice (which has gone cold) back to be replaced by steaming-hot ones.

Finally, the goose is served. We ordered half which- as the chuckling server said- should be enough for the two of us. After giving ourselves a moment to admire the bird’s glistening skin and its dark meat which promises to be gamey and flavorful, we attack our goose with the fervor of blood-hungry predators. The roast goose, to be honest, was not as I remembered it (lean but juicy, robust and rich). I found it to be too cold and a bit too tough. I understand that the slightly-gristly meat is typical of this game bird, but it was much tougher this time. Matt, too, was a tad underwhelmed, but still proclaimed it to be a really good meal. Besides, we were freaking hungry, so we gobbled it all up, anyway.

After a pause to recover from our sinful dinner, we tackle the treacherous (for me, at least, in my four-inch-heeled “hooker” boots) hike up D’Aguilar St. to get to another Hong Kong landmark- Lan Kwai Fong. This legendary hot spot in the center of Hong Kong’s business district is famous for its string of bars, restaurants and clubs wherein the parties last until the early hours of the morning. On weekends, the party spills out into the streets and, that portion of D’Aguilar leading up to LKF, is closed to traffic. Matt, known for his unsatiable appetite for the night life, has been looking forward to this part of the trip the most.

We decided to wait for our friend, Wolfgang, at LUX, where we had a few drinks at the bar. Upon his arrival, we have a celebratory shot of Patron tequila to kick off a night of partying.

We continue on up the street to Wyndham Road (At this point Matt is already semi-dragging me. Damn boots.), taking the elevator up Hotel LKF to the roof deck bar called Azure. The mostly expat crowd sipped their single malts and martinis in dark, deep couches while looking out onto the now-quiet city. After a drink, Wolfgang said we had to move on.

He then took us next door to Dragon-I (which, aside from being the hottest club in HK, also serves a mean dimsum brunch, I heard), where he thoughtfully reserved a table for us and had to get to it by 11:30PM. When we arrived, the party was just starting, the lounges and the long bar slowly filling up with the city’s beautiful party people. We were required to purchase a bottle in order to reserve the table, and so the three of us shared a bottle of Belvedere vodka with complimentary cans of Red Bull. The events that happened beyond this point are quite blurry to me, and I believe it is best that they stay that way.

I love Hong Kong. And now, Matt does, too.

Yung Kee
Wellington St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)25221624

Azure
29/F Hotel LKF
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)35189330

Dragon-I
Upper Ground, The Centrium
Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
Tel. no. (852)31101222